Searching for the best pizza in Phnom Penh

Posted on June 5, 2015 by Zita Long

This is our first post from Siem Reap-based writer Zita Long. Zita is Canadian-Cambodian and the head baker of Siem Reap Bäckerei, a microbakery specializing in artisanal sourdough breads. Zita is interested in all things edible, and will be sharing his reviews of the best that Cambodia has to offer. In this post, he asks the eternal question, “Where can I find the best pizza in Phnom Penh?”

Last week I had the opportunity to spend a few days in Phnom Penh. I took advantage of that opportunity and — guided by online research and recommendations from food fanatic friends — visited some of the “best” pizza joints in Phnom Penh. Keep reading and you’ll see my scathing reviews. Nah, just playin’, I’d like to think my reviews are honest and fair. Additionally, I want to demonstrate why the opening question is utter bullpoop. A much better question is, “I prefer ‘this style of pizza’, where can I find it?” You’ll see what I mean.

best pizza phnom penh

Desperately seeking the best pizza in Phnom Penh.

Piccola Italia Da Luigi

Piccola Italia is a popular pizzeria amongst Phnom Penh expats, it seems. Basically, you have this small, cramped restaurant, on the edge of a narrow lane, packed with peeps either squeezing their way into the eatery, possibly seated next to strangers, or standing nearby to pick up their takeaway pizzas.

From what I hear and read, Piccola Italia makes the most authentic Italian pizza in Phnom Penh. Maybe, I don’t know. That’s a vague and bold claim, but what I do know is that Piccola Italia makes crispy, thin-crust pizzas. Brittle, crackly, with bulbous air pockets around the rim, that holds its shape when lifted (a pizza slice, that is). However, contrary to what some people may believe, I don’t think they’re wood-fired.

Piccola Pizza Phnom Penh

Does Piccola Pizza have the best pies in town?

I ordered the Dell’ennese, a pizza topped with mozzarella and pecorino cheese, cherry tomatoes, Italian sausage, oregano, and black olives. To be frank with you, I was disappointed. Not because the pizza tasted awful (it tasted alright, actually), but because I expected a tomato sauce based pizza. I skimmed the menu too quickly, so totally my fault! My only regret is that I’m only one person and couldn’t try a wider selection of their pizzas.

Also, I was shocked at how many expats (likely regulars) in Piccola Italia spoke Khmer to the local servers, with near perfect accents. (I’m a Canadian-Khmer, by the way.) There were several of them, a mix of Italians, French, and other non-Khmer nationalities! That’s friggin’ cool, man.

phnom penh pizza piccola

Arriving when the open is the best way to get a seat at Piccola. They are packed most nights!

Suggestions: Make reservations if dining with a group or even with one other person. Unless you enjoy crowds or have no other options, eat on weekdays at 5 p.m., just when the restaurant opens for dinner. Be patient with service.

The damage: $6.25 (Dell’ennese, Medium)

The Italian House

Phnom Penh, you have a hidden treasure! Shy of a year old, The Italian House is a quiet, cosy restaurant specializing in Neapolitan-style pizzas. What’s that, you say? No worries, I’ll explain.

The Italian House Phnom Penh

The Italian House: A hidden gem with Neapolitan-style pizzas.

Most commercial ovens hit a max temp of 400C/750F. In such machinery, pizzas typically take a few minutes to cook (with an evenly browned crust). In comparison, Neapolitan-style pizzas bake at higher temperatures and cook in about 30 to 90 seconds. This is accomplished by using a scorching hot, domed (for better hot air circulation), wood/coal-fired, clay/brick oven. Other specifications for certified Neapolitan pizzas include using a specific type of Italian tomatoes for the sauce, using a certain type of Italian flour for the crust, etc.

By chance, I met Mr. Paolo, the owner and manager of The Italian House. A stern, quiet, and reserved dude. (For whatever reason, these are common traits in a lot of professional bakers, including myself.) Mr. Paolo is a 2-in-1 pro: an expert pizza maker AND brick oven builder from Italy. I’m telling you, this guy knows his schmitt. Seriously, that beautifully charred, dark golden brown crust, mottled with black spots, encircling a bed of tomato sauce with melted fresh mozzarella atop. I nearly peed myself from excitement when I first laid my eyes on those beauties, both the self-built wood-fired oven and pizza.

Italian House wood fired oven

The expertly made wood-fired oven at The Italian House.

Having said that, Neapolitan-style pizzas are not for everybody. They can be described as floppy, droopy, or soggy, but that’s exactly the characteristics you want for this classic, traditional pizza (originating centuries ago in Naples, Italy). They’re eaten with forks and knives, served as a whole or unsliced, prepared in smaller portions, and rather simplistic in toppings, often with a higher ratio of tomato sauce to (mozzarella) cheese. I ordered the four seasons pizza, topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella, green olives, mushrooms, ham, and artichokes. As a fan of Neapolitan-style pizzas, I was more than satisfied!

Caution, though! The servers here are somewhat inattentive, but not purposely. They’re still learning, still trying to get their groove on, so please be patient with them.

The damage: $8.50 (Four Seasons, Normal)

Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro

After a quick glance at their pizzas, some of you may think, “That’s so American.” Others are saying, “Hell yeah!” It’s large, it’s substantial, and it’s drenched in cheesy, meaty goodness. Certainly can make a meal for two or three and quench each person’s appetite.

Brooklyn Pizza Phnom Penh

Like big pizzas? Head to Brooklyn Pizza for a seriously American-style pie.

Compared to pizzas at Piccola Italia and The Italian House, the crust at Brooklyn Pizza is more aerated and chewy. Not too firm and crispy, not too floppy and droopy. Just hard enough to pick up a slice by hand and soft enough to fold lengthwise (not sure if this pizza-folding habit is a New York thing) and shove into your mouth.

The owner of Brooklyn Pizza, Mr. Jay, is one heck of a friendly and rad guy. Going from one table to another, asking customers for their feedback, while greeting and saying farewell to familiar faces. I had a brief convo with Mr. Jay about his pizzas and learned two critical things. First, his pizzas are supposed to be a meal in itself. Check! Second, the crust is supposed to be thicker and breadier to withstand hefty toppings. Check!

You’ll also find burgers, cheesecakes, and a variety of beers including German and Belgian beers, and local craft beers from Cerevisia Craft Brewhouse at Brooklyn Pizza. Now that’s what I’m talkin’ about! A perfect pair, pizza and beer.

Brooklyn Pizza Phnom Penh

Head to Brooklyn Pizza to find pizza that will make you say “hell yeah!”

So what delicious monstrosity did I order? Actually, I didn’t order the pizza. My newly made baker friend from New York did. If I’m not mistaken, we had the “Stella,” a pizza topped with mozzarella and feta cheese, pepperoni, roasted garlic, spinach, and mushrooms. We both enjoyed it and had our fill, to say the least.

The damage: $10.95 (Stella, Large)

Conclusion

There’s no universal “best” pizza. However, if possible, eat-in for best results. Try different styles, different toppings, chase what you love and avoid what you hate. It’s as simple as that. Also, there’s no need to ridicule or put down other people’s taste preferences, unless that preference is roasted puppies stolen from neighbourly households. That’s just inconsiderate.

I know, I know! I missed out on this and that pizzeria and pizza shop. There were several on my list that I didn’t dine at, couldn’t due to time restrictions and a slow metabolism. However, please feel free to give recommendations in the comments below. When I revisit Phnom Penh, I’ll be sure to follow your suggestions. Thanks in advance!

Piccola Italia Da Luigi

36 Street 308, Tonle Bassac, Phnom Penh
T: 017 323 273

The Italian House

Open daily, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
2 Street 312 (end of Street 9), Tonle Bassac, Phnom Penh
T: 092 230 207

Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro

Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
20 Street 123, Toul Tom Pong, Phnom Penh
T: 089 925 926

How to get from Phnom Penh to Hanoi

Posted on May 27, 2015 by Lina Goldberg

Hanoi is an excellent weekend getaway from Phnom Penh, filled with lots to see and perhaps more importantly, lots to eat. The last time I went to Hanoi, I spent a week scratching my head trying to figure out how to actually get there. But now that I’ve figured out, I’m here to tell you the best ways to get from Phnom Penh to Hanoi.

A motobike with a giant basket of flowers on the back in Hanoi.

Hello Hanoi!

There are no direct flights between Phnom Penh and Hanoi. Vietnam Airlines flies the route with a 45-minute stop in Vientiane. The flight takes a little over three hours and costs start at $227 one way, or $355 for a round-trip ticket. Flights can often go up to as much as $600 return. To add insult to injury, they don’t serve alcohol on the flights.  It’s possible that come high season they will start doing direct flights again, but right now there aren’t any scheduled.

Irritated by the price and schedule, I, like many intrepid expats, made my way to Hanoi with a mix of busing and flying, which can be done for less than $70 each way.

There are a number of buses that go between Phnom Penh and Ho Chi Minh City. The trip takes anywhere from six to eight hours depending on how things are at the border.

One of my favorites is the Giant Ibis bus from Phnom Penh to HCMC. They offer luxury buses with WiFi leaving every day at 8:00 a.m. Tickets cost $18 and include hotel pickup. You can book online (recommended) for an extra $1 and reserve a seat in advance.

I’ve also taken the less expensive use a travel agent than to go to the Vietnam Embassy in Phnom Penh.

Once you’re in HCMC, it’s a $6 or $7 taxi ride to the airport (take Mai Linh taxis if you don’t want to experience the joys of rigged Vietnamese taxi meters). There are a dozen daily flights that fly the HCMC-Hanoi route, priced as low as $40. Vietnam Airlines is the most reliable but most expensive and they charge extra for one way fares. A better option is Jetstar Vietnam. They’re cheap and while Vietnam expats like to gripe about them, I’ve had pretty good experiences with them.

There’s a newcomer on the scene, Vietjet Air. I’d strongly recommend against using them. Although they have 6 flights a day on this route, they usually combine them to fill planes, and only run a few per day. Both of my Vietjet Air flights were cancelled, and I was moved onto one of the later flights. On the way there, it was only an hour delay. But on the way back it was a 5 hour delay. Definitely not worth the $5 savings. With any of these airlines, though, expect some delays and don’t schedule tight transfers.

If you’re not the flying sort, there are buses from HCMC to Hanoi, but they’re long and unappealing. Consider instead taking the Reunification Express, a train that runs the length of Vietnam. The trip is long, it’s 2.5 days and best to break it up with stops along the way. But you’ll see some of the most gorgeous countryside in Vietnam as you make your way up the country.

Another option for those just looking for cheaper flights is the new Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City route on Qatar Airways that’s priced at $215 return. Combine this with Jetstar and you can get to Hanoi for around $315.

Finally, another option is to get yourself to Siem Reap by bus, taxi, or plane, and fly Vietnam Airlines from there. They’ve got a direct flight from Siem Reap to Hanoi that usually starts at $340 return or $200 one way. Although this way is not always the cheapest, the flights with Cambodia Angkor Air line up well and allow for a long weekend in Hanoi. Happy Hanoi-ing!

Bus tickets purchased through links in this post to read more here.

Juicing in the Charming City: Phnom Penh juice bars

Posted on May 21, 2015 by Jen Green

Cambodia is hot year-round, and Phnom Penh expats of a certain age try to stay in shape. Who can blame them, with the variety of gyms available, not to mention other fitness, yoga and dance classes in town. And the beach is just a three to four-hour bus ride away, right? Not to mention the Penh’s many pools; one is often required to be bikini or boardshort-ready as an expat in Cambodia.

Juicy Mercy Phnom Penh

Juicing in Phnom Penh, a sign at Juicy Mercy.

But eating healthy is just as important as getting in your exercise. And whether or not working out is your thing, sometimes drinking your five-a-day is nicer than all of the chewing involved in eating a big healthy salad.

Juice bars are popping up all over Phnom Penh, just in time to keep your hot season “glow” and give you some much-needed vitamins and minerals. This raft of juice shops focuses on fresh, local fruits and vegetables, and no added sugar. Most juice bars offer both juices and smoothies– we’ve set out their sizes and prices so you can compare. We’ve noticed that Phnom Penh juice bars don’t open especially early (8 a.m.) but do stay open until 8 or 9 p.m. for the student crowd.

Bbii Fresh Phnom Penh

Get your juice on at Bbii Fresh in Phnom Penh

Bbii Fresh

Small juice: $2.50
Medium juice: $3.99
Smoothie: $3.99

Special features: Bbii Fresh have small juices for take-away in cute squat glass bottles, and one type of pre-made salad with two options for dressings. And there’s a unique feature among the Phnom Penh juice bars:  a tidy, minimalist hostel/hotel in the back.

Juicy Mercy

juice (one size): $3.80
smoothie (one size): $2.80
Special features: Juicy Mercy also have a few salads, which looked tasty, and Greek yogurt. Although it is a little pricey, if you work out at The Place, Juicy Mercy means you can easily pop in for a juice post-workout. The space is also comfortable and includes tables and chairs that you could work at, or large leather couches.

The Hub juice

Anti-aging carrot at pineapple juice at the Hub.

Hub Juice and Smoothie Bar

Small juice (12 oz): $2.80
Medium juice (16 oz): $3.50
Smoothie: $2.00 – $2.80

Special features: Hub’s juices and smoothies are fully customizable! Calorie information is included for each juice and smoothie. Plus, they have specials like frozen fruit popsicles and fruit juice mixed with Red Bull (consumers must be over 16). They also have a seven day “juice cleanse” program, which recommends certain juices to drink before lunch and before dinner. At $39.20 for the week, this is probably the most affordable juice cleanse in town (although you still have to buy your own meals). Plus, they deliver.

The Juice House

Small juice (12 oz): $2.85
Medium juice (16 oz): $3.95
Smoothie: $2.00 – $3.00

The Juice House has a unique approach to juice, which is to make them taste delicious by adding things like ice cream and cookies to them. It’s not all high-calorie treats, though. They have a range of 100% fruit and vegetable juices ingeniously served over ice so as to not dilute them, and smoothies that can be made with rice milk, almond milk, soy milk or cow’s milk, and sweetened with honey.

Phnom Penh juice bar juice house

Juice served, literally, over ice.

Chom Ka (delivery only!)

juice: $4 for 500ml or $8 for 1 liter

This simple juice delivery service makes it easy to keep your home or work fridge stocked with juices to satisfy your 5-fruits-and-vegetables-a-day. Order the day before for morning delivery, or plan out an entire week of healthy juices to be delivered to your home or office. The mangosteen juice, which is only available during mangosteen season, is milkshake-thick, sweet, light pink, and not to be missed.

You can also get some fresh, healthy juices from these fine Phnom Penh cafes, along with yummy salads and other good-for-you fare:

Artillery juices $2.50, smoothies $2.50 -3.00, three-day Just Juice Cleanse $69 (delivery included)
Backyard Cafe juices $3.50, smoothies $3.50 – 4, 3 day juice cleanse $65
Gerbie’s juices $2.95, smoothies $3.25
Kettlebell Cafe juices $2.25- 2.75
Vego juices $2.95, “Power Drinks” $2.95

Bbii Fresh

172A Street 51, between Street 360 and 370, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 011 883 882; 093 883 882
facebook.com/BbiiFRESH
bbiigroup.com

Juicy Mercy

22 Street 282, between Street 51 and Norodom Blvd, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 017 610 904
facebook.com/juicymercy

Hub Juice and Smoothie Bar

Corner of St 310 and St 63, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 016 995 993
hubcambodia.com

The Juice House

30Eo Street 178, Daun Penh, Phnom Penh
T:012 220 815
facebook.com/thejuicehousePP

Chom Ka

T: 017 359 545 (call or text)
facebook.com/pages/Chom-Ka-Juice

Artillery

Street “240 ½” off of Street 240, Royal Palace area, Phnom Penh
13B Street 278 between Street 57 and Street 63, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 078 985 530, 012 904 365
artillerycafe.com

Backyard Cafe

11B Street 246, Royal Palace area, Phnom Penh
T: 078 751 715
backyardeats.com

Gerbie’s

78 Street 51, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 098 786 161
facebook.com/gerbiessaladandsandwich

Kettlebell Cafe

45 Street 454, Toul Tom Pong, Phnom Penh
T: 012 750 430
facebook.com/amatakkettlebellcafe

Vego Salad Bar

3Eo Street 51, BKK1, Phnom Penh
21B Street 294, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 012 984 596; 011 984 596
vegosaladbar.com

Review: Cambodia Bayon Airlines

Posted on May 19, 2015 by Lina Goldberg

Yet another Chinese entrant into Cambodian domestic airspace, Cambodia Bayon Airlines flies between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville, and Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville. Flights are incredibly cheap, but there are some serious safety concerns to consider. We fly Cambodia Bayon Airlines from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap and see what all of the fuss is about.

Cambodia Bayon Airlines

Cambodia Bayon Airlines flies Chinese MA60 turboprop planes. Be ready for a loud ride.

Cambodia Bayon Airlines is Chinese-owned, partially by Joy Air who unsurprisingly chose not to operate under their original name, which sounds exceedingly crude in the Khmer language. They’re flying one MA60, a Soviet-style turboprop plane, that covers all of the three routes each day, but they’re planning to expand their fleet and presumably dominate the Cambodian domestic market with flights between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap every 45 minutes.

The MA60 (“Modern Ark 60”) is a Chinese-made plan with a troubled history. Because of numerous crashes, accidents, and safety concerns, the plane has been banned from flying in the US, Europe, UK, New Zealand, and Australia. Recently, countries like Tonga, Nepal, and Indonesia have either gotten rid of or banned the MA60 due to safety issues. Cambodia Bayon Airlines, on the other hand, has 19 more on order, which will eventually make them one of the airlines in the world with the largest number of these exotic, if dangerous, planes (only beaten by the aptly named Okay Airlines).

Cambodia Bayon Air economy class

Economy class on Cambodia Bayon Air…not as bad as you might expect.

Now here’s where I digress into the stuff that you might not care about, but Bayon Air purchased the 20 planes at a cost of $450 million from Chinese state-owned aerospace company Aviation Industry Corporation of China (AVIC). But according to the Phnom Penh Post, “Bayon Air is a subsidiary of Bayon Holding Limited, which is wholly owned by AVIC and China Easter Air’s Joy Air.” So yes, a company is purchasing millions of dollars in unsafe planes from itself to operate in Cambodian airspace.

Of course I was completely unaware of any of this when I booked the morning Bayon Air flight from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. And it was fine; I survived the flight. The flight took about 50 minutes, which is longer than Bassaka Air, because it’s a smaller plane. The noise near the propellers is pretty loud, and there’s no room for any large or awkward luggage in the overhead bins. Perhaps knowing these failings, Bayon Air bribes its passengers by handing out pastries and water during the flight.

Cambodia Bayon Air inflight service

The pastry bribe: not bad for a 50-minute flight.

I was told that check-in closes 30 minutes before the flight takes off (and boarding starts at the same time). Like the other domestic airlines, Bayon Airlines is relatively lax with ID requirements and will accept a photocopy of your passport in lieu of the real thing. I also noticed the security screener ignoring the screen, making me wish I hadn’t chucked my bottle of water.

The Bayon Airlines MA60 have 50 seats. 48 of those are regular economy seats, but the other two appear to be two random easy chairs in the back of the plane (which is where the passengers board) that makes up the whole of business class.

On the Phnom Penh to Siem Reap route, prices start at $32 for a one-way once taxes are included and a preposterous $153 for business class. The Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville route seems to be hovering around $70 (and $169 for biz). This route is especially silly, because it flies from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap to Sihanoukville, which takes almost three hours. If you hit the gas, you can drive it in the same amount of time, so the plane is probably not the best way to get from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. If you’re flying Siem Reap to Sihanoukville, flights are currently starting around $54 for a one-way ticket.

Cambodia Bayon Air business class

The exceedingly odd solo business class seat. There’s one more across the aisle.

Overall, I probably won’t be spending a lot of time flying on Cambodia Bayon Air because of safety concerns, but I also recognize that I’m probably more likely to die on Cambodia’s roads than I will in its skies, no matter how often I fly.

Bayon Airlines schedule:
Phnom Penh to Siem Reap: 8:10 a.m.
Siem Reap to Phnom Penh: 8:00 p.m.

Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville: 4:20 p.m.
Sihanoukville to Phnom Penh: 3:00 p.m.

Sihanoukville to Siem Reap: 5:35 p.m.
Siem Reap to Sihanoukville: 9:55 a.m.

At the time of writing, Bayon Air is flying daily trips between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville (with a triangle flight). It’s best to check and confirm, as they change their schedule regularly. I’d recommend not booking too far in advance or relying on them to connect to an international flight. With only one plane, if they have any mechanical failures the flights for the day will inevitably be cancelled.

Tickets can be booked with most travel agents in Cambodia, or tickets can be reserved on the Cambodia Bayon Airlines website, and then paid for within 24 hours at their office in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, or Sihanoukville. They will also, allegedly, send someone to you to pick up payment in either of those cities while they work on getting their payment processing set up.

Want to compare all of the airlines flying between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap? Read the Phnom Penh-Siem Reap flights blog post. 

Cambodia Bayon Airlines

Phnom Penh International Airport, Phnom Penh
Borei Angkor Arcade Shopping Center, Road 6, Siem Reap
T: 023 231 555; 099 227 301
bayonairlines.com

Learning Khmer: Interview with a Khmer language teacher

Posted on May 4, 2015 by Lina Goldberg

You know you should learn Khmer, but have you done it? Khmer teacher Chhun Vanna has been instructing foreigners in the finer points of the Cambodian language for five years now. Today, she talks to us about common mistakes that Cambodia expats often make when learning Khmer, plus tips for learning the language.

Vanna Learn Khmer Now

Teacher Chhun Vanna answers your questions about learning Khmer.

What is the most difficult part of learning Khmer for Cambodia expats?

There are many difficult parts of learning Khmer for foreigners. Khmer has some sounds that English does not have. A lot of times the dt and ng sound at the the beginning of a word are hard for them to reproduce.

How long does it take for an expat to learn Khmer to a proficient level?

Every student is very different. Some come wanting lessons five days a week, plus studying a lot on their own. Or some study once a week, but they have a girlfriend or boyfriend giving them a lot of practice. But If there was a student who lived in Cambodia, I would say after six months the student could speak really well. Reading and writing is also possible in six months, but the student has to be motivated and find the best way to learn.

What are the common mistakes that expats make when trying to speak Khmer?

Foreigners make some mistakes when speaking Khmer, but for the most part, the grammar is easy compared to English. Some Khmer words are ordered different than English and the student will try to translate exactly, instead of remember the different rules of the Cambodian language.

Learning Khmer: language flash cards

Vanna says you can learn to read in six months. Yikes!

Do you have any tips for expats who are studying Khmer?

The first tip for learning Khmer is practice, practice, practice. If you live in Cambodia, go order food in Khmer. Pretend you don’t speak English and try only Khmer. Learn one new word a day. Pick one word and use it many times (out loud, and in your head). For students learning outside of Cambodia listen to YouTube lessons, and Khmer music. Maybe put notes on things you are learning. If learning about the kitchen, write the Khmer word on the refrigerator, and write the Khmer word on the trash can, etc.

What is your favorite expression in Khmer that most Cambodia expats probably don’t know, and what does it mean?

One saying i like is, “Kom kit rian Jong Tver mondrey Saorb kperm puak dei noam ouy kro. Trov rian Tver jia kak se-Kor terb mian trop dtor tov kang kroy.” In Khmer script: កុំគិតតរៀនចង់ធ្វើមន្រ្តី ស្អប់ខ្ពើមភក់ដីនាំអោយក្រ ត្រូវរៀនធ្វើជាកសិករ ទើបមានទ្រព្យតទៅខាងក្រោយ។.

It means: ‘Don’t try to become a government minister as that just leads you to do corruption. Instead be a farmer and real wealth will come to you.’

Another easier saying for foreigners which can be used many different ways is min ey te (មិនអីទេ). A lot of foreigners know it, but I rarely hear them say the word. It can mean ‘you’re welcome,’ ‘it doesn’t matter,’ and ‘I dont care.’ It is similar to the Thai word mai pen rai.

Get more tips on learning Khmer from Vanna at learnkhmernow.com, where she has videos, worksheets, and vocab lessons to help get you started. 

The best supermarkets in Siem Reap

Posted on April 16, 2015 by Lina Goldberg

Luckily for expats, there’s no shortage of excellent supermarkets and grocery stores in Siem Reap. Recently, two new stores have opened their doors, making the grocery landscape even more competitive. Like supermarkets in Phnom Penh, the grocery stores in Siem Reap are chock full of imported goodies at surprisingly low prices. Of course you’ll find fresher produce and lower prices at the local markets, but sometimes you just want access to Western products and meats that have been refrigerated. Here are the best grocery and supermarket options in Siem Reap.

Angkor Market

inside of Angkor Market, Siem Reap Cambodia

Angkor Market in Siem Reap carries an astonishing range of imported groceries.

Angkor Market is the local favorite with Siem Reap expats and it’s not hard to see why. The store is small and usually crowded, but it’s packed full of just about every conceivable product a foreigner could want, from imported cheeses and natural yogurt to cocoa powder and black beans. Since the announcement of the opening of two new grocery stores in Siem Reap, Angkor Market has upped their game and expanded their meat, seafood, and produce selection. You can now find a wide range of local and imported fruits, vegetables, and herbs (including dill, tarragon, and sage) as well as local and imported meats, cold cuts, and sausages.

The outside of Angkor Market, Siem Reap

Angkor Market in Siem Reap is an expat’s dream grocery store.

Upstairs they offer a full range of homewares, from kitchen tools to pet supplies to stationary. Angkor Market also has a better selection of cleaning and laundry products than any of the other stores in town. While there is no way they could pack every conceivable product into such a small place, it certainly feels like they have somehow managed to do it!

Lucky Supermarket

Lucky Mall, Siem Reap

Siem Reap’s Lucky Mall is the home of the aptly named Lucky Supermarket.

The most popular supermarket in Phnom Penh has never really managed to take off in Siem Reap. It’s more than twice the size of Angkor Market but Lucky Supermarket is usually empty, save for the random tourist wandering the aisles looking for Kampot pepper. That said, they actually have an excellent selection of products, including many Western and Asian brands, all at good prices. They’ve also got fresh produce and meats, including some imported stuff mainly from Australia. The dairy section is pretty good, featuring imported cheeses, fresh milk and a thousand types of interestingly-flavored Asian yogurts. They also have a bakery on site with fresh breads and cakes.

Lucky Supermarket Siem Reap

Aisles big enough to swing a cat, or use a shopping cart.

Excitingly (for me, anyway) Lucky carries a selection of UK brand Waitrose teas, jams, cookies, and other pantry items at very reasonable prices. An area Lucky particularly excels in is snack and junk foods, so if you’re looking for packaged cookies, soda, instant noodles or cake mix, you’ll be placated with all the brands you know from home and some you’ve never heard of. They also have a small homewares section, plus household staples like shampoo, diapers and pet food.

Lucky Supermarket is popular with parents who say that Angkor Market is too small and difficult to navigate with strollers, shopping cart, or angry toddlers.

Thai Huot

Thai Huot, Siem Reap

Thai Huot has finally come to Siem Reap. Hooray!

Thai Huot was a long-time expat favorite in Phnom Penh. More recently, they’ve expanded to two more stores in Phnom Penh and one in Siem Reap. Thai Huot has wide, spacious aisles that are filled with an excellent selection of imported pantry items. Thai Huot specializes in French and European products, and all of their shelf tags specify which country each item is from. Thai Huot is easily the best place in Siem Reap to find spices; they’ve got the sort of things that no one else carries (who knew you could get juniper berries in Cambodia?). They’ve also got a great range of French wines, European baking supplies, and hard-to-find items like dried morel mushrooms.

Thai Huot interior, Siem Reap

Inside the gleaming new grocery heaven, Thai Huot.

Thai Huot is not the place to go for meats, fruits, or vegetables, and their tiny selection pales in comparison to what Angkor or Lucky carry. But for European panty items and French beauty products, they can’t be beat.

Asia Market

Asia Market Siem Reap

Asia Market, it’s a mystery.

Newcomer Asia Market is a bit of a mystery to yours truly. Located on Sivatha within walking distance of Pub Street, the store seems to cater to tourists rather than expats and locals. They dedicate a large amount of floor space to snack food, packaged local gift products, t-shirts and Cambodian trinkets. The store is designed like a supermarket, however, and since their opening at the end of 2014 they’ve started carrying more and more products.

They carry a random assortment of products, including a few bulk items like giant wheels of cheese. Their produce selection is better than Thai Huot and best of all, they don’t use plastic or styrofoam packaging for the vegetables they sell, they wrap them in banana leaves. Asia Market also carry many Cambodia-made products, including items that you used to only be able to find at the local markets, like dried fish, beef, and squid. They also have a large beauty and bathroom section, and carry products not found anywhere else in town (pH neutral shampoo, anyone?)

Angkor Mini Market

Angkor Mini Market Siem Reap

Packed with goodies: Angkor Mini Market.

A spin-off of Angkor Market, Angkor Mini Market boasts the same great selection as the full-size store and a convenient location near touristy Pub Street. Even better, this grocery store is open 24 hours a day and have the same prices as their other store.

It seems impossible, but they’ve managed to fit almost all of the products found there in this even smaller shop, but the focus seems to be more on items that tourists or those snacking in their hotel rooms might want. They have a decent selection of fruits and veg, but if you’re planning on cooking a five course meal, it probably makes sense to hit up Angkor Market, which is not far away.

Angkor Market
Open 7:00 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Sivutha Blvd at Oum Khun Street, Siem Reap [map]
T: 063 767 799

Lucky Supermarket
Open 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Lucky Mall, Sivutha Blvd, Siem Reap [map]
T: 081 222 068
luckymarketgroup.com

Thai Huot
Samdech Tep Vong Street, Siem Reap [map]
T: 063 968 822
thaihuot.com

Asia Market
Open daily, 8:00 a.m. to 12:00 a.m.
Sivatha Blvd, near Samdech Tep Vong Street, Siem Reap [map]
T: 017 765 092; 010 888 059

Angkor Mini Mart
Open 24 hours
128 Sivutha Blvd, Siem Reap [map]

Where to drink coffee in Phnom Penh

Posted on April 9, 2015 by Jen Green

There was a time when to get a coffee in Phnom Penh you had little choice but to go to Brown Coffee or one of the other offerings on Street 51 in BKK1, or for 2,000 riel you could get a strong, sweet Khmer iced coffee from your neighborhood street drink lady or the “best Khmer iced coffee” in Russian Market. Those days are over.

Cambodian latte

Get latte’ed out of it in Phnom Penh.

There seems to be a new coffee shop opening every week, including chains from Australia (Gloria Jean’s), France (Le Diplomate), Laos (Dao, Joma), Japan (Kiriya), Singapore (Artease, YaKun), South Korea (Caffe Bene), and the UK (Costa). That coffee shop on the corner of 57 and 310 has changed names (but not much else) at least three times in the past 18 months, and trendy new cafes are popping up everywhere from Psar Kandal to Toul Tom Pong.

While you might be hard-pressed to find traditional Khmer coffee roasting in a steel drum, no fewer than three local cafes boast their own roasting machines (Brown, Feel Good 2, Terrazu). Even some of the coffee carts have pastry refrigerators and espresso machines.

But for all of this talk of “single origin” and arabica, how is a person to choose where to get their caffeine fix these days? Whether you are a social drinker, coffee snob, straight-up caffeine addict or backpacker on a budget, here are our recommendations.

For the coffee

At Feel Good and Feel Good 2 veteran roaster Marc Adamson and his protege (and silver medal Cambodian National Barista finisher) Sophorn roast coffee daily and supply many cafes and restaurants in Phnom Penh. They still manage to be head and shoulders above the competition in the quality of their coffee drinks, with excellent espressos and silky textured milk piccolos, flat whites and lattes.

Feel Good coffee Cambodia espresso

A Feel Good espresso. Unsurprisingly, it will make you feel good.

For a meeting

Head to Brown Coffee (but with ten outlets, make sure you agree on which one!). This Cambodian coffee chain was one of the first to serve espresso-based coffee drinks, and their iced coffees and frappes are delicious. A place to see-and-be-seen for students, Brown Coffee boast plenty of big tables for work and meetings, but if you are looking for quiet, you had better go elsewhere. Their roastery on Street 57 also offers some single origin filter coffees and cold brew — be sure to specify when you order if you want yours without sugar!

For the sidewalk vibe

Bistrot Bassac and Chez Flo are side-by-side French-owned tiny cafes on Street 308. The sleek, architectural Bistrot Bassac and the perfectly mismatched, quirky Chez Flo are great places to chat and watch the foot traffic while sipping on a coffee after lunch or over cake.

For letting the kids run around

Breezy outdoor restaurant and cafe Farm to Table has an indestructible weathered-industrial vibe and a tractor and miniature outdoor kitchen play set for the little ones. Luckily for the older crowd, Farm to Table also makes a great espresso.

Cambodian coffee affagato ice cream

The perfect way to perk up and cool down on a hot day.

For the ice cream

Nuk Coffee boasts a liquid nitrogen affogato: super-chilled creamy ice cream with a shot of espresso. It’s not our favourite coffee in town, but with hot season upon us, this cold, creamy and caffeinated treat does the trick.

For the cold drip

Terrazu near BKK Market uses a glass drip tower to make a light and fruity cold drip coffee that is great over ice. While it might remind you more of iced tea than a coffee, it highlights the bright citrus and floral notes of Ethiopian beans.

For a quickie

With its cool walk-up counter, Kettlebell Cafe does great coffee drinks for the crowd with places to go. Whether it is before (or after) a workout at Crossfit Amatak, or on your way back to work after lunch at one of the restaurants nearby, the service is spot on, the milk is smooth and sweet and the coffee is delicious. And if you can’t wait the thirty seconds for an espresso, they have ready-made cold brew to pour over ice and send you on your way with.

Feel Good
Open daily, 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
79 Street 136, Psar Kandal, Daun Penh, Phnom Penh
T: 079 888 773
feelgood.com.kh

Feel Good 2
Open Daily, 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
11b Street 29, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 077 694 702

Brown 57
Open daily, 6:30 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Street 57 at Street 294, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 070 257 474
More locations: browncoffee.com.kh

Bistrot Bassac
Open daily, 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.
38 Street 308, Tonle Bassac, Phnom Penh
T: 070 902 021
facebook.com/bistrotbassac

Chez Flo
Open Mon through Sat, 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and 5:00 p.m. to 11 p.m., stays open to midnight Thurs through Sat
T: 012 986 270
facebook.com/chezflophnompenh

Farm to Table
Open Tues through Sun, 8:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.
16 Street 360, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 078 899 722
facebook.com/farmtotable

Tarrazu Cafe
Open daily, 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
340 Street 370, BKK1, Phnom Penh
facebook.com/tarrazucafecambodia

Kettlebell Cafe
Open Mon through Fri, 6:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., Sat 8:30 a.m. to 2 :00 p.m.
45 Street 454, Phnom Penh
T: 012 750 430
facebook.com/amatakkettlebellcafe

Jen Green is a coffee fiend based in Phnom Penh.  In the interest of full disclosure, she has worked with Feel Good on (bean sourcing) and Kettlebell Cafe (equipment and barista training). Jen has a blog about Southeast Asian coffee, littleblackdrink.com.

Snaps: Lotus fields in bloom

Posted on April 7, 2015 by Lina Goldberg
Lotus flowers in lotus field

Lotus flowers as far as the eye can see.

A photo of Siem Reap’s lotus fields in full bloom and the story behind it.A photo of Siem Reap’s lotus fields in full bloom and the story behind it.

It’s lotus season in Cambodia, and here in Siem Reap the lotus fields are in full bloom. Visitors can show up and pick their own lotus heads, which is what we did this morning. Once you’ve finished, you pay for what what you pick, much like raspberry farms or apple orchards in the States. In Cambodia, locals eat the stem, seeds, and roots of the lotus plant. I had never been very impressed with the lotus seeds I’ve bought on the street, but eating them fresh from the plant was a completely different experience.

The photo opportunities at the lotus fields were fantastic, but I, like the lotus-eaters of yore, mostly squandered any chance of accomplishing anything due to the heat, the glare, and the endless supply of lotus seeds. I got a few good snaps, though, and I like this one because it hints at how vast the fields are, all filled with blooming lotus flowers.