Year 33: An upcoming film about Cambodia’s burgeoning arts revival

In many ways, the Cambodian art scene is still in its infancy, but draws on a long and powerful history of traditional Khmer arts. The Khmer Rouge period destroyed much of that history, but today young artists are working to build Cambodia’s arts back to their former glory. Kathryn Lejeune and Janna Watkins are two Los Angeles residents who are working on a documentary that tells the story of Cambodia’s burgeoning arts revival through the lives of three young Khmer artists. Move to Cambodia talks to Kathryn, the director and co-producer, about their upcoming film, Year 33.

Year 33 Cambodia arts film

What is the significance of the title Year 33?

Year 33 captures an important moment in Cambodia’s history 33 years after the Khmer Rouge fell from power. The title is a way to acknowledge the past while focusing on the present day and the exciting things that are happening now.

How did you and Janna become involved with Cambodia and its art scene?

Originally, we were looking into covering water issues in Cambodia. Phnom Penh has an incredible water system that is the envy of many major cities in the world, while rural areas are decidedly lacking in access. During our extensive research, we came across the story of Cambodia’s tragic history where 90% of artists were killed during the Khmer Rouge era, but are now coming back from that in a spectacular way. We were blown away by the resilience of these artists and their determination to create a life beyond the everyday struggles and routine. Once we really dug into the whole scene, we knew this wasn’t something we could just put down and walk away from… so we changed our whole documentary and never looked back.

Chea Vanny Cambodian textile designer

Chea Vanny, a Cambodian textile designer and one of the artists featured in Year 33.

Can you tell us about some of the artists in Year 33?

We were truly honored to meet each of the artists profiled in our film and the ways they opened up personally was truly humbling.

Nam Narim is a passionate dancer and choreographer. She is a third generation Apsara dancer with a famous lineage– her mother is Taong Kim-Ann, and grandmother Em Theay. Narim has a growing solo career, but also dances with Amrita Performing Arts, a contemporary dance company. Highly recommend seeing a performance in Phnom Penh.

Viet Mao is a painter, sculptor, and gallery owner who focuses on social and environmental issues. His gallery, Make Maek, is the only gallery in Cambodia actually owned by a Cambodian. He is working hard to bring art to the people for the benefit of the people. His works have been shown in pretty much every gallery in Cambodia.

Chea Vanny is an extremely talented textile designer, specializing in traditional Cambodian ikat. She works at IKTT, where everything is sustainably sourced, using no chemicals or machines. While using ancient methods as a way to preserve the future world, she also experiments with “new traditions” and designs.

Where was the film shot? Were there interesting comparisons to draw between rural/urban arts development?

The film was shot in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, and Battambang. We wanted to give a real sense that this art revival was not confined to one area of Cambodia, but countrywide. I personally love big cities with their energy and hunger for innovation, but there’s no denying the appeal of a laid back town or the charm of a small close-knit community. As far the arts, the cool thing about Cambodia is that, as Viet said, “the arts in Cambodia are just growing up,” so there is a real sense that anything can happen anywhere. Also, in such a small country as Cambodia, there is a constant exchange of ideas and the feeling that everyone is in it together.

What is the goal of the film?

Our goals with Year 33 are to bolster the arts in Cambodia, using self-expression as a way to positively support individuals and communities. We advocate arts education all over the world, and see Cambodia as an incredible example of what the arts can accomplish. Through the film, we aim to increase awareness of this really cool revival, and encourage travelers to think beyond those typical “Apsara & Buffet” venues and venture into some real galleries.

Viet Mao Cambodian artist

Viet Mao, Cambodia’s only Cambodian art gallery owner.

What impact does economic development have on the progress of traditional arts in Cambodia?

This moment is a critical one for the arts in Cambodia. Either economic development can overwhelm this new revival and galleries turn into t-shirt stands, or the general public in Cambodia and those who visit will recognize the worth of genuine Cambodian arts. We’re obviously rooting for the latter, and artists in Cambodia are working hard to see this become a reality.

How have artists grown in the absence of a generation of mentors who died during the Khmer Rouge?

The absence of a generation of mentors has had a devastating effect on today’s current artists. This was a problem repeated to me several times from different sources and is a main reason why it has taken 33 years for the arts to get to where they are now. However, as tragic as it is, the consequences have had an interesting effect in that the art you see coming out of Cambodia is incredibly unique. To this end, Cambodia has a lot to bring to the international table, where much has become homogenized.

Given recent criticism of Western involvement and support of the Cambodian art scene, how do you encourage organic/native involvement in the arts scene?

I personally completely disagree with Phally Chroy and find it patronizing to expect Cambodia to operate in a vacuum, “safe” from the “evils” of western influence. The artists I spent time with are hungry to participate in and contribute to the international art scene, and to dictate whether or not that should be allowed is ridiculous. Art is all about collaboration and an exchange of ideas. Without it, there is stagnation. With that said, it is important to educate the general public on the history and depth of Cambodia’s rich cultural legacy in order to keep it on equal footing with art from, say, France or the US.

Kathryn Lejeune and Janna Watkins

Kathryn Lejeune and Janna Watkins, Year 33’s creators.

What’s next for Year 33? When will the film be released?

Year 33 is currently in post production and we are raising funds through Kickstarter to finish the film. We have partnered with Creative Visions Foundation and CineCause to craft a meaningful film that will reach a wide global audience. Beyond that, we are developing a social action campaign that will directly support the artists by facilitating opportunities for exposure, direct donations of sorely needed high quality art supplies, creating programs for multi-discipline collaboration and education, and more!

If you want to learn more about Year 33, please visit their website or consider supporting their project through their Kickstarter campaign.

Snaps: Kep Crab Market

Buying crabs in Kep makes for some great photography opportunities. A visit to the Kep Crab Market, from start to finish.

Review: “From Russia with borscht” Samovar Restaurant, Phnom Penh

Update: Unfortunately, Samovar has closed. 

In Russia, every household traditionally had a samovar, a heated metal container used to heat water for making tea. You will find ornate versions of these teapots on every table in Samovar Restaurant, a newly opened Russian restaurant in Phnom Penh.

Samovar Restaurant Phnom Penh Cambodia

Samovar’s incredibly successful tuk tuk advertising campaign.

If your partner happens to be reading Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking and then later sees an ad for Samovar on the back of a tuk tuk, chances up you will end up sitting at one of these tables, under lighted photographs designed to make you feel like you’re looking out a window onto metropolitan Moscow.

When we visited Samovar the other night, there was a Russian family at the next table, which we took to be a good sign. If it was good enough for the Russians then it was certainly good enough for two gluttons who didn’t know any better.

Samovar Restaurant Phnom Penh

A window onto Russia at Samovar Restaurant, Phnom Penh.

The decor is surprisingly pleasant and when you arrive you are greeted with a welcoming smile  by Cambodian waitresses in bright uniforms that allude to the traditional garb of the Russian peasantry. Russian pop music (including this amazing song, American Boy) plays in the background and mercifully, there is no television.

We ordered five dishes priced between $3 and $5, plus two appetizers that were around $2. The dishes came out one at a time allowing us to share each one. Sharing is, of course, optional.

Samovar Borscht Phnom Penh

From Russia with borscht at Samovar Restaurant.

As we ate our appetizers of raw vegetables and tasty pickled cabbage and tomatoes we realized that we had no idea what was going to come out and in what order. This was, in part, because we knew nothing about Russian cooking, apart from what had been gleaned from the aforementioned Soviet food memoir. This lent an element of surprise to each successive course, and gave us time to look up each dish on Wikipedia and see what we were eating.

Pel’meni literally translates as ‘ear bread.’ These dumplings are similar to Polish pierogi but they are thought to have originated in China and moved West. Almost every country between Beijing and Krakow has some variation of these meat filled, doughy parcels that are served with smetana (sour cream) on the side. Various fillings are available and at Samovar there is also the option of having them served in a broth . A bowl costs between $3 and $5.

Borscht is perhaps the most well known of Russian foods. It varies from region to region, but usually uses beetroot as the main ingredient. Samovar’s version was so hearty and delicious that I actually found it difficult to stop eating it. In fact, you may get so engrossed in eating it that you forget that you are even supposed to be sharing the bowl with your long-suffering partner. I was still shoveling borscht into my face when the waitress put the blinchiki down for the next course.

Blinchiki are traditional stuffed pancakes with various filling that are just under $4 at Samovar. These are sort of like the Russian version of spring rolls, served with a side of sour cream.

Tefteli at Samovar Phnom Penh

Hearty lamb meatballs called tefteli make an appetizing main at Samovar.

Before eating at Samovar, I had no idea that Russians were so into sour cream, and just when we thought that it was going to accompany every course, the tefteli (freshly steamed lamb meat balls) arrived. They were served on a very generous portion of nicely stewed cabbage (cabbage, like smetana making its third appearance in the meal tonight). On this occasion we were spared the sour cream and served gravy instead.

Hearty portions and great depth of flavor means that you eat very well at Samovar. Finish off your meal with a dessert of blinis and homemade jam, honey or condensed milk and a glass of sbiten (a hot, honeyed winter drink that goes down surprisingly well in Phnom Penh’s heat) and you will go home very satisfied but not stuffed to the point that you hate yourself.

Our visit to Samovar taught me that there is more to Russian food than just borscht and I was glad to learn it from an actual Russian chef, who made an appearance after our meal. The whole meal for two people cost $30 (and could have fed three or four less enthusiastic eaters). The meal was both tasty and outstanding value, especially if you are a fan of cabbage and sour cream.

Samovar Restaurant

#11 Street 108 (across from Night Market), Phnom Penh
T: 015 892 525; 077 892 525

Review: Nyny Hotel, Kampot

While there’s no dearth of places to stay in Kampot, it can be difficult to find one that is both central and reasonably priced. Enter Ny Ny Hotel, an inexpensive 29-room hotel in Kampot’s city center.

Nyny Guesthouse Kampot

The Nyny Hotel in Kampot offers excellent value for money rooms.

Not to be confused with the NY, NY Hotel in Las Vegas (as in: New York, New York) Ny Ny is pronounced “knee knee” and is much more Beijing than Vegas. When we visited earlier this month the lobby was fully decked out for Chinese New Year with a money tree festooned in garish red lights.

Nyny hotel Kampot Cambodia

It may not be Vegas, but at least the Chinese New Year money tree is brightly lit.

The rooms are new and clean. Sheets are still white and soft, the towels are fresh and the walls aren’t covered in sticky handprints. Rooms are well-lit with very nice views of beautiful Kampot. Nyny is not the most exciting hotel in town, but it’s amazing value for money at these prices, especially considering how sparkling new the place is.

They’ve got WiFi, with routers on several floors so every room gets a connection. Rooms have a television with cable and a refrigerator. The bathrooms are spacious, with hot water (doubt not, if you let it run for a few minutes it will show up). “Single” rooms have one bed and twin rooms have two. The beds are somewhat smaller than a typical double, but large enough to sleep two people that like each other.

Nyny Hotel Kampot

New and clean. That’s pretty much it.

Rates are $6 for a one bed fan room, $7-$9 for a two bed fan room, $13 for a one bed A/C room and $15 for a two bed A/C room. Prices are slightly higher online but guarantee a booking, which can be slightly difficult by phone (my reservation got lost in the 16 hours between when I called them and when I showed up).

→ Check prices and book a room at Nyny Hotel on Booking.com or Agoda now.



Booking.com

Nyny Hotel

1 Ousaphea Village, Kampong Kandal Commune, Kampot (off the Salt Workers roundabout, straight back from the river, across from the Magic Sponge and Blissful Guesthouse)
T: 012 824 460

Looking for more? View the full Kampot city guide for tips on where to stay, what to eat, and things to do.

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Review: Cambodiana Physique Club gym, Phnom Penh

The Physique Club, as the Hotel Cambodiana gym is called, offers great value for money with good quality equipment and facilities, all for a reasonable monthly fee. If you live in the Riverside area of town, the Physique Club is the only Western-standard gym above Sihanouk Boulevard in Phnom Penh.

Cambodiana Hotel pool

Laze at the Cambodiana Hotel pool while gazing at the Mekong.

The gym is small but well equipped, clean and air-conditioned. For those who remember the days when the Physique Club refused to turn the air-conditioning below 28°C/82°F (or even turn it on at all), those days are long gone. They’ve redesigned the entrance so members now enter through the locker rooms, which means that the outside doors stay closed and the gym remains mercifully cool.

The gym has mirrors covering half the wall space and the other half is floor-to-ceiling windows that look out over the Mekong. This creates the feeling of working out in a very wide open space, lots of natural light and avoids the claustrophobic feeling you can sometimes get when exercising in a smaller gym.

Weights at Physique Club Cambodiana Hotel

Contemplate weighty matters at Phnom Penh’s Physique Club.

The modest floor space is utilized well. They have a surprisingly wide range of weight-lifting equipment and what they have is of decent quality. A full set of dumbbells from 1kg to 40kg, Olympic bars and plates, benches, Smith machine, resistance machines, stability balls and even a punch-bag with gloves are all available and all in good condition.

Lack of floor space does mean that resistance machines are limited and there are a couple that you may be disappointed not to see there, such as biceps and tricep or chest fly. If this is a concern, look out for Chan who works at the gym. He is Cambodian-American, speaks fluent English and got certified for personal training in the US. He is always happy to offer advice and also offers personal training at a competitive rate.

Cardio-wise, there are a few machines and they will do the job although most of them are a bit tired. The treadmills are fine for a long steady run but not much good for high intensity interval sprinting and the cross trainers look as though they have seen better days.

Cambodia Hotel Physique Club

Get your punch on at the Cambodia Hotel gym.

The spa facilities are also of a good standard. In the changing rooms there is a sauna, steam room, showers and even comfortable couches to relax on and read the paper. Free chilled water and WiFi are also available as well as free use of lockers and towels.

In addition to use of the gym and spa facilities, members can take advantage of the swimming pool which is clean and well-maintained or relax on one of the sun-loungers with a cool drink from the bar. There are also tennis courts available to book, and the hotel can supply rackets and balls. The gym is open 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. and they offer various classes, including aerobics and Khmer dancing in the evenings.

Membership rates are quite reasonable, especially for those who aren’t willing to commit to the year-long contract at The Place that you need to secure a decent rate from them. One-day passes are $10, a week costs $30, a month is $56, three months is $159, six months is $310 and a year is $600. Tennis lessons are a very reasonable $8 per hour. Various cheaper rates are offered for couples, early bird and night owl membership.

Physique Club, Hotel Cambodiana

313 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh
T: 023 218 189
hotelcambodiana.com.kh

Cycling to Teuk Chhou, Kampot

If you need a break from life in hectic Phnom Penh, Kampot provides a nice respite as life there runs at a significantly slower pace. Located two and a half hours south of the capital, Kampot is a small town that offers great opportunities to see some of Cambodia’s countryside.

Cold beer in Tuek Chou

Tuek Chhou offers everything a traveler might want…

The town itself was the site of a crab haven of Kep as well as the motorbike ride up to Bokor Hill Station that offers spectacular views of the Gulf of Thailand.

If motorbikes or crabs are not your thing then you can rent a bicycle for the day and spend the day in the countryside. I opted to head for Teuk Chhou which is a spot roughly nine kilometers North from Kampot town center. You should allow between three and four hours for the round trip and be sure to apply some sunscreen. The combination of no sunscreen and a tee-shirt means that I am now sporting a rather aggressive farmer’s tan.

Cycling in Kampot

Rent a bicycle and see the wonders of the Kampot countryside.

The road to Teuk Chhou is full of interesting insights into rural Cambodian life. The disused irrigation ditch, for example, that runs practically the entire length of both sides of the road itself was dug during the time of the Khmer Rouge. These days it is overgrown with vegetation and used as dumping ground for durian skins and other waste. Agriculturally, Cambodians are not as developed as their other Asian neighbors with just one rice harvest per year (compared to three in Vietnam and up to four in China).

The ditch exists but the desolate rice paddies point to the fact that irrigation has not developed further than the ditch-digging stage. Whether this will be put to use in future remains to be seen, and perhaps all the Cambodians you see along the way lying around in hammocks or sitting by their durian stalls are contemplating this very issue. You may also be rather surprised by how many rural Cambodian families own a pool table, many of which are visible on the road to Teuk Chhou.

Hanging out in Tuek Chou.

Hanging out in Tuek Chhou.

Distribution of wealth in Cambodia has been the subject of much debate for many years. You will see plenty of people living in wooden shacks on the road to Teuk Chhou and many of them are smiling, giving the appearance of a contented and happy community. Occasionally you will also see a very grand house with several new vehicles parked in the drive and perimeter fencing built around it (one house even had gold plated animal statues sitting in the middle of a professionally landscaped garden). This egregious display of wealth sits rather awkwardly in between two durian stands, both run by women who look as tired as the fruit they sell.

Swimming at Tuek Chou

After a leisurely ride, go for a dip at Tuek Chhou.

Teuk Chhou itself is not spectacular but is a great place for a swim after an hour and a half cycle. The thatched wooden platforms that line the river bank contain hammocks and are big enough for a few people to sit and get a picnic. Lots of Khmer families take advantage of Teuk Chhou’s swimming and hanging out facilities that sit in the shadow of trees, next to a 50ft stone Bhudda. Inevitably, durian are for sale.

Cycling back, the same sights are available, only in reverse, leading to a very similar experience as the journey in: wooden shacks, durian stands, irrigation ditch, inequalities in the distribution of wealth and, as far as I counted, five pool tables.

Motorbikes cost $5 (plus gas) and bicycles are as little as a dollar a day in Kampot. Just look for signs around town as many guesthouses and travel agents rent both.

How to buy crab at the Kep Crab Market

For those of you who read my last post ‘Eating crab in Kep: The crab shack face-off‘ you may be curious about how one actually goes about buying crabs directly from the ladies at the Kep Crab Market. There’s no denying that the experience can be slightly intimidating, but the results—a giant steaming basket of crabs—are well worth it.

Crabs from Kep Crab Market

Throw yourself in the Kep Crab Market and be rewarded with a delicious lunch.

If you want to try your hand at buying live crabs in Kep, here are a few tips.

Be prepared to bargain. The first price you are offered will not be the going rate or the best price you can get. The difference is not huge, 5,000 riel ($1.25) or 10,000 riel ($2.50) at most, but you are expected to bargain. If you bargain in Khmer, you will get a better price. This is why learning numbers and shrieking “so expensive!” (t’lay na!) is the most important Khmer you can learn. If you can’t bear to bargain, there is a drink seller in the market who speaks English and is happy to help if you buy your beverages from him. You can identify him as the sugar cane juice stand closest to the cooking area and closest to the water—he has a green Apple logo on his stand and he doesn’t charge a markup to help (or not much).

Bargaining at Kep Crab Market

Be prepared to bargain. This crab seller wanted 30,000 riel, we settled on 25,000 riel.

Prices vary. Keep in mind that prices can change dramatically day to day. So don’t assume you are getting ripped off just because you are paying more than someone else did last last week. A few days ago I was offered 20,000 riel ($5) for a kilo of small crabs and 30,000 ($7.50) for large crabs. Just a day later I paid 25,000 ($6.25) for a kilo of large crabs. But a day before I arrived during Chinese New Year, Lui paid 40,000 riel ($10) and the Canby Guide staff heard of prices going as high as 60,000, while a tuk tuk driver told me 80,000 was the going rate. Do any of these numbers matter? No. My point is just that prices vary wildly based on demand and availability so don’t be concerned if you don’t get the same prices you’ve read about. Have a smile on your face and keep the bargaining good-natured and you’ll get a good price.

Inspecting crabs and Kep Crab Market

Don’t be afraid to put your hands into the crab baskets and pick out the best of the bunch.

Inspect the crabs. From watching the locals, I learned that buying crabs is a hands-on affair. Decide if you want male or female crabs (females have delicious roe inside but males can have meatier claws) and learn how to identify them. Females have a bigger “apron” that is a dark color. Cambodians value the females more, but the Western palate doesn’t necessarily appreciate the roe and guts, so you may get a better deal on male crabs. Whichever you choose, you identify yourself as an engaged consumer by squatting down and putting your hands in the crab basket and picking the ones you want and rejecting the ones you don’t. If you don’t do this, essentially you send the message that you are prime for the taking. Watch a few locals buy crabs before you try it—even if they are buying kilos and kilos, they will inspect every one with a ridiculous amount of attention. Whether or not you have any idea what you are looking for, pretend that you do just to show you care. And ask for the big ones—kdam thom (big crabs). They’re easier to eat.

Cooking crabs at Kep Crab Market

Boiling crabs and the Kep Crab Market makes for a great photo opp.

Get them cooked. It costs 3,000 riel ($0.75) to boil a kilo of crabs or 5,000 riel ($1.25) to stir fry them. The locals and the Move to Cambodia team usually go with boiling. The crabs are stunned and then boiled in salty water. Eaten in this method, the crab becomes the real star of the meal, and you can enjoy its natural crabby flavor to the fullest. Order some rice and chili sauce to accompany it—you’ll see women in the market selling both. The chili sauce is sold in water bottles for between 4,000 and 6,000 riel (the darker variety is tastier in my personal opinion). You can sit down to eat them at any of the drink-sellers’ tables if you buy drinks from them, or bring them back to your hotel if you prefer.

Take advantage of the photo opportunity. If you start pushing your way into the middle of someone else’s crab purchase to take photos with your iPad, you’re being a jerk. You’re getting in the way of someone else’s transaction if you butt in with your camera. But if it’s your transaction, feel free to take as many photos as possible. The cooking process with the steaming tubs of crabs make for wonderful photographs. You’ll get some great shots and no one minds because you’re buying their product.

Crab sellers at Kep Crab Market

Get involved and get yourself lunch.

Don’t be scared. I’m not going to lie, the first time you buy crabs at the Kep Crab Market you will probably intimidated. You will be swarmed by crab fisherwomen who will all be shouting at you in Khmer about how fantastic their crabs are. But the results are more than worth it. The crabs you buy on the pier will be fresher, tastier, and better value than the ones you’ll get at any of the nearby restaurants and you’ll get an authentic Cambodian experience in the process.