Water Festival in Siem Reap

Cambodia’s Water Festival is a traditionally Phnom Penh-centric affair. The first Water Festival celebration in Siem Reap took place was in 2001. That year, it was a small affair with just 20,000 people showing up to watch the races. This year couldn’t be more different. The streets around the river are closed to traffic, and Siem Reap has become a pedestrian paradise as everyone from the province has flooded into town to watch the boat races. Dozens of street food vendors are out hawking their wares, and local restaurants have dropped their prices for the Water Festival hordes (Blue Pumpkin are selling scoops of ice cream for $1). Locals, tourists, and expats were enjoying the carnival-like atmosphere that went on long after nightfall. If you didn’t head to see the Bon Om Touk festivities yesterday, it’s well worth a visit today.

Water Festival is here!

Here in Cambodia, Water Festival, or Bon Om Touk, is upon us. The Tonle Sap and Mekong River are the heart and soul of Cambodia; every November the Tonle Sap changes its course and Cambodians gather in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap to watch boat races to mark the occasion. This year, the celebration takes place on November 5th, 6th, and 7th.

Phnom Penh Water Festival

Preparations for Water Festival in Phnom Penh. Photo by Jeff Mudrick.

Water Festival gets a bad rap amongst expats. The week leading up to Water Festival is affectionately referred to as “robbery season,” because so many bag-snatchings take place. Every year, millions of Khmers from the countryside flood Phnom Penh (and to a much lesser extent, Siem Reap) and the streets are packed with families who have set up camp on the sidewalk, sometimes days in advance, waiting for the festivities to begin. Unsurprisingly, petty crimes rises when the city is flooded with poor relations.

This is what expats usually gripe about: the streets are packed, traffic is at a standstill, stores are closed, and crime is up. In 2010, there was a stampede during the Water Festival on Koh Pich in Phnom Penh that killed more than 350 people. There hasn’t been a Bon Om Touk celebration in the city since then, until this year.

But the Water Festival also offers a glimpse of Cambodian culture that shouldn’t be missed. If you’re in Phnom Penh, head to the riverside to watch the boat races. They have special grandstand seating set up for foreigners–or anyone willing to pay to sit there–that have unobscured views of the river. If you’re planning to head into the crowds, leave your valuables at home but bring sun protection and water. Once you find a seat you’ll probably not want to leave. In the evenings, there are fireworks.

Savvy Phnom Penh expats head to riverside apartments to watch the races. If you don’t have friends with a riverside balcony, considering getting a hotel room for the day. Check out the sign up using the code MTCAM you’ll get a $15 credit (and so will we!). Agoda also often has good same-day deals on Phnom Penh riverside hotels.

Siem Reap Water Festival

Siem Reap’s sleepy river in the days leading up to Water Festival.

Water Festival celebrations in Siem Reap are much less crowded but just as enthusiastic, with a carnival-like atmosphere, games and rides. Boat races are on today and tomorrow, with 34 boats set to compete. Like the festival itself, the boats in Siem Reap are smaller but no less colorful. At night, there are floating candles and fireworks.

Introducing Siem Reap Food Tours

Over here at Move to Cambodia we’ve long been working on another project that revolves around one of our favorite things about Cambodia: the food. I’m delighted to finally announce the launch of our new venture, Siem Reap Food Tours.

Siem Reap market tour

Eating street food in Siem Reap doesn’t have to be scary.

We’ll be offering a scenic morning tour that takes visitors to markets, village kitchens, and local restaurants. You’ll be able to sample an exciting array of delicious Khmer dishes, street food, and snacks, which might include Cambodian breakfast staples like bobor, a savory rice porridge, and kuy tiev, a local noodle soup, as well as exotic tropical fruits and treats like prahet (fried fish cakes) or a dessert made of a special dried tree resin afloat in sweet coconut broth. We offer morning tours so that guests can experience Siem Reap’s busy morning markets while enjoying cooler morning temperatures. Also, traditional breakfast dishes are amazing–some of our favorite foods in Cambodia. Tours start around 8 a.m. and last between three and four hours.

num banh chok

A classic Cambodian breakfast: num banh chok.

We start and end in the Old Market area, but will travel far and wide, to places you would probably never find otherwise! We’ll take you into the bustle of a Siem Reap morning and explore local markets, then head through rice paddies and temples to a village that’s home to a breakfast dish that’s part of Khmer folklore. We return to Siem Reap for our final culinary adventure via one of the country’s most scenic drives.

We’ve also added an evening tour, because we know that you might want to spend your mornings at the temples! Our evening tour starts at 5 p.m., and we sample everything from Cambodian BBQ to frogs stuffed with kroeung, a fragrant curry paste that is one of the defining ingredients of Khmer cuisine. We’ll even throw in a few Cambodian beers if you’re so inclined. The evening tour is a fun and relaxed way to get acquainted with Siem Reap and Cambodian food.

Please let us know of any food allergies in advance. If you’re a strict vegetarian you probably won’t like our tour; most Cambodian soup and noodle bases have a small amount of fish sauce or meat in the stock, but we can avoid red meat and gluten, if you’re so inclined. We have more information on our website, siemreapfoodtours.com.

Siem Reap market food tour

Getting a laugh (and a giant bag of veg) at the market in Siem Reap.

Tours cost $75 per person, and include all food, drinks, and transportation during the tour. In order to provide a truly personal in-depth experience, we limit our tours to no more than four people. For an additional fee, we can give you an entirely private tour. Either way, please book in advance.

Siem Reap Food Tours is run by Lina Goldberg, notorious glutton and the author of Move to Cambodia: A guide to living and working in the Kingdom of Wonder. Steven Halcrow, whose resume includes cooking at Scotland’s only Michelin two-star restaurant, serves as tour guide, drawing on the insights he gained working with local ingredients in the kitchen of Siem Reap’s most acclaimed eatery, Cuisine Wat Damnak.

To book a tour, visit siemreapfoodtours.com or email info@siemreapfoodtours.com.

How to decide if you should give birth in Cambodia

A few years ago, very few expats would have considered having a baby in Cambodia. They were willing to raise a child here, but they weren’t going to give birth in Cambodia unless they had no other choice. These days, though, there are good Thai hospitals in Cambodia and there’s even a promised neonatal intensive care unit coming in the new Royal Phnom Penh Hospital (Royal Rattanak has moved locations and changed their name). When you are making the decision about where to give birth there are many factors to consider, but more and more expats are choosing to give birth in Cambodia.

Giving birth in Cambodia

Mom and baby after an uneventful and happy birth in Siem Reap.

We talked to four expat moms about how they decided to have a baby in-country or to leave, and what factors you should consider when making this decision.

Rachel: “I decided to have my second child in Cambodia as it was my home and we had the existing set up family support for our then young daughter. I also did not wish to spend a month or so in Bangkok. I had gone home to the UK for the birth of my first child and as everything went well with a natural birth, I decided that I was comfortable having the second baby here with the support of an experienced British midwife in a local government clinic.

Pain relief was not widely available however so there was no gas and air for example, which helped with the delivery of my first child. I was happy with my experience, we were at the clinic for only three hours before returning home with our new baby, and would deliver a future child in Cambodia if there were not signs of complications.”

Barb: “I had a baby in Phnom Penh earlier this year. I chose Royal Rattanak Hospital after being referred by medical professionals that I trusted. My pregnancy was considered higher risk going in; it was my first baby and I am in my late thirties. I was prepared to travel to Bangkok via taxi if the monitoring showed any risk to the baby or myself, but it ended up not being necessary. I also stayed in contact with my family doctor in Australia when I wanted a second opinion.

I was kept on fetal monitors throughout the labor, which measure the baby’s heart rate and contractions. This meant that I couldn’t get up and walk around between contractions or anything like you read about in the natural childbirth books. No showers or birthing pools or anything like that. It was just old school lie on a bed and have a baby, a lot like how it looks in the movies, but far less pleasant.

I had intended to have a natural childbirth, but ended up requesting a C-section after about eight hours of labor. The extra staff had already been placed on standby in case this happened and they arrived very quickly. The entire procedure was explained before it happened or while it was happening, and I wasn’t afraid.

Expat baby born in Phnom Penh

This happy baby was born in Phnom Penh.

I know having a baby in Phnom Penh isn’t for everyone. I’ve lived in Cambodia for nearly ten years and would have felt very isolated in Bangkok. The other option was to go to Australia, but you have to fly so early and wait for paperwork, so it ends up being around three months, and my work and business commitments would have made that difficult. I have heard the criticisms of my decision to have my child here, but I can assure everybody that my decision was considered and not entered into lightly.”

Narisa: “I can’t speak to options in Phnom Penh, but in general I would go to Bangkok rather than stay in Siem Reap for any in-patient medical procedure. In general the level of medical care and comfort is much, much higher–there is a choice of hospitals and I looked at Bumrungrad, BNH and Samitivej–all very good hospitals. Also in Bangkok there is a large community of doulas and I wanted to have a doula with me during my birth.

Samitivej in particular is known for being very good for natural birth. They have two very large, comfortable and attractive (for a hospital) birthing rooms, with a tub, mattress, chair, and various other things (railing to lean on, giant balance ball, etc). There is room to walk around and plenty of room for husband and doula to be present. As it turned out, I ended up not having natural birth but a C-section instead. The nurses in the maternity ward are extremely experienced and helpful, and the maternity ward itself is separate and private from the rest of the hospital, with a security guard at the entrance.”

Kirsty: “There are obviously a million what-ifs, and pregnant woman face those every day anyway. For me, the risk of alcohol wasn’t worth it so I abstained. But risk of soft cheeses be damned, and I ate those. Both can have terrible outcomes, but I did what I was comfortable with. Basically, deciding whether or not to deliver your child in a developing country comes down to gut feeling. I was comfortable staying my entire first pregnancy, the second I left earlier on medical advice which I strongly agreed with.

A pregnant woman needs to consider how much support she’ll have, how comfortable she is with the hospital, how much pre-natal testing she’s comfortable with and if she wants to travel for some or forgo it. But ultimately she has to ask herself a question that haunted me throughout my pregnancies – what if? If your child is born too early but would have survived if you’d gone home, if you get substandard care and your child is deprived of oxygen during delivery, if their neck gets broken, if you’ve given an archaic solution to something routine, if you can’t establish breastfeeding, if you get PPD, if you’re given a c-section that leaves a Frankenscar, if you don’t heal well or have a serious injury during delivery, if baby has a defect, if you’re tricked into believing a local old wife’s tale and it harms your baby or yourself…if something happens that you come to realize was entirely preventable or could have been managed more simply if you were in a developed country. What if?

For me, in the end, I left the first time because I wanted to be around my sister and really, really didn’t want a C-section. It was absolutely the right choice for me and I don’t regret it for a minute. I also don’t regret being pregnant in a developing country and having to leave in a hurry second time around (and I’m really glad I left as all predictions came true). Instincts are really important.

Whatever people choose to do, even just to be pregnant in a developing country, self-education is key. The parents need to know what is done in the West and how to manage the differences as best you can. To know where to look for support and advice, because having the baby is only the beginning.”

Veterinary care in Cambodia

If you’ve gone through the trouble of importing a pet into Cambodia or adopted one here, you may be wondering where to go for veterinary services for your pet. Most expats agree that it’s worth splashing out to get veterinary care in Cambodia from an expat veterinarian, as the local vets are mostly untrained and are just as likely to make the problem worse as they are to make it better.

Wondering where to get care for your pet? We've got our paws on the pulse.

Wondering where to get care for your pet? We’ve got our paws on the pulse of vet care in the Kingdom.

Phnom Penh

PPAWS (Phnom Penh Animal Welfare Society) has a clinic that offers spaying, neutering, and vaccinations for dogs and cats. Proceeds are used to support PPAWS programs to spay and neuter stray animals and help find homes for pagoda pets. Vaccinations cost between $10 and $25, cat spaying costs $65 and dog spaying costs around $95, depending on the size of the animal. Discounts are sometimes possible based on need. The clinic is open Tuesdays through Friday and Sundays, but call or email in advance because it can be difficult to find.

PPAWS (Phnom Penh Animal Welfare Society)

Beoung Tumpun, Phnom Penh
T: 017 293 654 (English); 078 611 289 (Khmer)
ppaws.com

Agrovet is considered the best veterinary clinic among all Cambodia vets. Run by a French veterinarian, the hospital is run to European standards and have prices to match. And while expats do gripe about the cost (consultations start at $25), most will admit that the place is the best option for your pets. They treat all types, but specialize in the canine and feline variety. There are several local vets on staff, but you’re best off with the French vet. If you’re outside of Phnom Penh and haven’t had luck with the vets in your town, it’s worth a visit to the capital and an appointment at Agrovet.

Agrovet

33B Street 360 (between Monivong Blvd and Street 63), BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 023 216 323
agrovet-cambodia.com

Siem Reap

Sadly, American veterinarian Dr. Don Gillespie has left town, but Siem Reap is still lucky to have veterinary nurse Katie Russell, who owns a small veterinary clinic, Siem Reap Veterinary Services. Ms. Russell, an Australian-certified veterinary nurse has more than ten years experience in Australia and Southeast Asia. The clinic primarily treats cats and dogs, and she offers consultations, vaccinations, parasite treatment and prevention, grooming and general health care advice. The clinic gets regular visits from vets every few months for neutering and spaying, and is looking for a Western vet to bring on full time. Consultations are available by appointment weekdays from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Siem Reap Veterinary Services

Wat Damnak Village, Siem Reap
T: 071 998 4413
facebook.com/Siem-Reap-Veterinary-Services

Sihanoukville

Expats speak highly of Dr. Roman Kuleshov, a young Russian veterinarian who runs the Happy Pets Veterinary Clinic in Sihanoukville. He does consultations by appointment only between 9:00 a.m. and 7:00 p.m. daily, but takes emergency calls at any time. He also makes house calls!

Dr. Kuleshov has a complete price list on his Facebook page (and we do mean complete). Consultations are $10 or $15 and he administers various vaccinations that cost between $10 and $30. For $5 you can get an international health certificate, aka a pet passport. Happy Vets treats dogs, cats, birds, and wild animals.

Happy Pets Veterinary Clinic

Emario Beach Resort, Victory Hill, Sihanoukville [map]
T: 098 215 104
facebook.com/Veterinary-Clinic-Happy-Pets

Kampot

PPAWS (Phnom Penh Animal Welfare Society) has recently started a program to bring a vet to Kampot on a regular basis, to offer vaccinations and spaying and neutering services. Contact PPAWS for more details, or watch the Kampot & Kep Noticeboard for Expats & Locals Facebook group for upcoming dates. The next date is October 11th, contact Rainer at 096 77 64 128 to make an appointment.

Got a suggestion for where to get vet care in Cambodia or want to update one of our listings? Submit it here.

Building a fence in Siem Reap

So you’ve completed your move to a nice big Cambodian style house, and you got it for a knockdown price, but there is just one problem: it needs a bit of work done. You were braced for this before you moved in, even excited by the prospect but now you are actually there, you realize that your DIY skills never really progressed past building Lego houses as a child.

The list of jobs is not overly intimidating as none of them involve any major plumbing or wiring expertise, but they do require some planning and the acquisition of appropriate materials. You may be tempted to just find a local that can do the work for you but there is no denying the sense of pride you will feel when your carefully constructed DIY masterplan becomes a reality.

Building a fence in Siem Reap

It’s both easier and harder than you might think.

After moving to a more rural existence in Siem Reap, we realized we’d need to put up a fence in order to gain slightly more privacy from the neighbors and stop the constant stream of chickens and feral dogs from pooping all over our garden. Barbed wire makes an effective barricade and a 30-kilo roll will set you back around $40. Don’t be put off if you are asked to buy the whole lot, even if you only need 20 kilos, as unfurling barbed wire is no walk in the park. Most places will be happy to refund you for what you don’t use, but be sure to clarify this beforehand. We bought ours from the well-stocked and friendly hardware store beside the bridge, a quarter mile down the road after making the right turn at Le Meridian on the road to Angkor Wat. The store also has a plentiful supply of PVC pipe, plumbing supplies, various wires, tools and chain link fence.

If barbed wire reminds you too much of prison and doesn’t afford you the privacy you require then you can always use wood, or even rolls of threaded bamboo to make your fence. On High School Road there are numerous wood/lumber yards but not all of them sell rolls of bamboo fence and not all of them speak enough English as to even entertain the notion of an actual transaction. For this reason it helps if you take someone who can speak Khmer, preferably a Khmer. A roll of threaded bamboo set us back $8 for a 1.5 metre high and 4.5 metre long roll and was considerably less work than constructing the fence from planks of wood.

For nails, wire, screws, etc. you can visit the aforementioned store or, alternatively you can head to Psar Chas. The hardware store opposite Warehouse is smaller and less widely stocked but still sells all kind of hardware treats to assist you. Nails and screws are charged by the kilo and finishing stains for woods and some small power tools can also be bought from these guys as well as hammers, screwdrivers, paint brushes, locks, hinges etc., etc., etc.

So, having acquired my fence-building kit (50 meters of bamboo fence, a healthy roll of wire, a kilo of 2 inch long nails, a hammer and a set of pliers) I was ready to go. The barbed wire and wood staked fence was already in place so unrolling and nailing the fence up was time consuming but straight-forward. I then re-enforced it by attaching the bamboo fence to the barbed wire using the regular wire and then tightened it with the pliers. It took two days and cost just over $100. A bit more expensive than a Lego set but just as fun to make.

We may not win any awards for innovation or style, but the shabby yet charming appearance of our new fence blends in nicely with the Cambodian neighborhood and we are also very happy that our lovely garden is no longer moonlighting as a public toilet for dogs.

What you need to know about buying property in Cambodia

If you’ve wondered what the deal is with buying property in Cambodia, you aren’t alone. Today we talk to Leah Valencia, one of the co-founders of Elevated Realty*. Leah filled us in on what’s required for a foreigner to buy property in Cambodia and explains the difference between a hard and soft title.

Small house on Koh Rong

Considering buying a house in Cambodia? Here’s what you need to know.

Can a foreigner own property in Cambodia?

“Yes, foreigners can own property in Cambodia but there are restrictions. Foreigners can only own properties on the first floor or higher (not the ground floor), up to 70% of any one building, however this only applies to buildings with a strata title. A strata title is a type of hard title that allows an owner to divide a building into multiple individually saleable properties, this is also known as the “condominium law”, it is generally only granted to new condo buildings that are being built for this specific purpose.

Alternatively, foreigners can own 49% of private property, with or without a structure, if they are partnered in a Cambodian legal entity. A Cambodian legal entity is defined as any legal entity that has 51% or more of its shares held by Cambodian citizens. So as long as you own the property in conjunction with a Cambodian national, you can own any type of property you desire.

Currently, this law is not being regularly enforced, this is why you will hear stories of people who hold titles to properties around the city. There is a level of risk assumed with acquiring property in this way as it is subject to enforcement at anytime.”

What are the requirements for a foreigner to own property in Cambodia?

“To purchase property in Cambodia all you need is a current passport and visa. However, I would strongly recommend that you have someone advise you through the process, such as a real estate agent or a lawyer. It is important to conduct a title search before purchasing property. The title search will confirm who holds the title to the property and reveal registered mortgages or other encumbrances. Bear in mind that there can be other impediments to transferring which are not visible through a title search, e.g., a claim by a senior politician to the property. The buyer will not be given the actual title to conduct the search, because this is the sellers’ only evidence of ownership. The buyer will instead get a copy of the title, and it is important to confirm that it is a recent copy.”

Phnom Penh apartments

If it’s not the ground floor, you’re good to go.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of long-term leases over buying?

“Long-term leases, lasting between 15 and 50 years, are an alternative way for foreigners to invest in Cambodian property. Prior to December 2011, leases could be granted for up to 99 years in accordance with the Land Law (2001). However with the entry into force of the new Civil Code, the maximum term of a lease has been reduced to 50 years. Leases granted prior to December 2011 will still be respected, up to a maximum of 99 years.

A clause can be inserted into the lease requiring the owner to get the lessee’s permission to sell, and/or entitling the lessee to convert to full ownership with the lessor’s cooperation. In addition, a ‘block sale notice’ can be registered with the Land Office, instructing the office not to sell the property without the lessee’s permission. Also it is often possible to put a renewable clause in the agreement.

Long term leases can now be registered at the national Cadastral Office and noted on the property title deed. In addition, a separate certificate may be issued to the title deed noting the lessee’s interests in the property. This Certificate of Perpetual Lease of Private Unit can be used as security to obtain financing. Additionally long term leases are assignable, sellable and bequeathable. This makes them similar to a freehold property but only for a limited time, which has both an advantage and disadvantage.”

What is the process if a foreigner wants to buy a ground-floor apartment or land in Cambodia?

“During the Democratic Kampuchea regime (1975-79), the Khmer Rouge abolished ownership of property and destroyed all existing official property records in Cambodia. At that time, all property belonged to the State and there were no private owners. After the Khmer Rouge fell, and for the next ten years, the right to own property was still not recognized and all property was owned by the government. In 1989 a Land Law was issued which established a framework for the recognition of property and property rights throughout Cambodia. In 2001 the Land Law was updated in an attempt to further clarify property ownership.

Under the Land Law property can be registered in two ways, systematic registration and sporadic registration. In the systematic system, the government targets plots of land to measure, register and title, this will continue until the whole country is complete. In the sporadic system, the owner initiates the title registration through the central Cadastral Office. There are currently two types of titles legally recognized in Cambodia, soft titles and hard titles.

A newly built house in Cambodia

Or, you can buy land (or 49% of it) and build your own.

The majority of property in Cambodia is legally held under a soft title. Property held under a soft title is registered at the local sangkat (council) or district level but not at the national level. soft title documentation can take a variety of forms, such as a letter of transfer from the previous possessor stamped by the sangkat or district office, a possession status certificate from the local sangkat or district office, or a building application. Buyers wanting to purchase a soft title property should conduct their own due diligence, at the sangkat or district office to confirm whom holds the soft title to the property. Similar enquiries should be made with the property’s neighbours. The property boundaries should also be carefully checked, as borders are often not properly demarcated and overlaps can exist. Often a soft title is prefered due to the taxes, fees and the processes involved in obtaining a hard title. However, the option to convert from soft title into a hard title is a right, either when systematic registration occurs or via sporadic registration.

A hard title is an ownership certificate which is issued by the Cadastral Office and recognized at the national ministerial level as well as at the sangkat and district level. A hard title is the most secure form of ownership, its registration should be the only evidence required of an indefeasible title.

There are pros and cons to both hard and soft titles. The most recent numbers accounting for title types in Phnom Penh found that currently only 10% of properties have hard titles, whilst 82% have soft titles, and 8% have no title at all. That being said, it is obviously much easier to find properties with a soft title, processing is faster, goverment fees are excluded, and it can later be converted to a hard title. hard titles on the other hand, though they include fees and take longer, offer you indisputable ownership, the history of the property, and leverage for bank financing.”

If a property only has a soft title available, is it still worth considering?

A soft title is definitely still worth considering, depending on what you intend to do with the property. Current trends in Cambodia include “flipping” property – buying, renovating, and reselling at a higher value. Also very popular, is buying and reselling to locals for development. In both of these scenarios the intention is not to hold the property, but rather resell it in a relatively short time period. In this case, regardless of the title type, with conditions as they currently are you should have no problems selling your property in the current market. However, If you plan to live on the property or invest a great deal of money in hopes of value appreciation, then a hard title would be the better choice, as it is more secure and will stand the test of time through varying market conditions. soft titles are currently the norm, and are being bought and sold without any problems. However, they do not hold the same security that a hard title does. ”

*Elevated Realty is no longer in business.

Street 136 dumpling crawl

There are a lot of things that Street 136 in Phnom Penh are known for, but dumplings aren’t necessarily the first that most people would think of. The block between Monivong and Central Market is a veritable hotbed of home-made dumplings, though, with several small, drab Chinese restaurants in a row, each with its own grumpy Chinese lady (or sometimes two) sitting in a corner, folding dumpling after dumpling.

Herk Fung Chinese Restaurant Phnom Penh

Round one. Dumplings and Chinese “pizza” at Herk Fung.

Recently, when at a loss for where to go for a weekend brunch, a group of us decided to go on a dumpling crawl of Street 136. Below are our notes from the crawl. They get more and more unintelligible with each successive restaurant, possibly due to the serious carb overload that we experienced, or to the fact that there was also a fair amount of Tsingtao required to wash all of the dumplings. Whatever our notes might indicate, a dumpling crawl on Street 136 is a fantastic way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

Herk Fung

Herk Fung was magnificent. We ordered $2 dumplings, $2 large Angkors, and $1 Chinese “pizza.” The communication was difficult, but the dumplings were spectacular. The Chinese pizza–this is for want of a better name, we have no idea what it was called–was stuffed with something vegetal and seaweed and was wonderful. A naked baby watched us eat.

Herk Fung Chinese Restaurant Phnom Penh

Herk Fung. Not particularly impressive from the outside, but the dumplings are fantastic.

“That’s probably the freshest dumpling I’ve ever eaten.”
“Would eat again.”
“That sets the bar really high.”

Pei Jing

The most exciting thing about Pei Jing was the $2.50 bottles of Tsingtao beer, which we had a few of, along with plates of dumplings for $2 that were served with chopped chili and garlic. The menu was in French and English, so it would have been completely possible to order things other than dumplings. We tried both steamed and fried dumplings and while they were pretty good, they weren’t great, and all agreed that the Tsingtao was the best thing about the restaurant.

Pei Jing Chinese Restaurant Phnom Penh

blah

“6/10”
“6/10”
“5.5/10”
“Middle of the road.”
“Come for the Carlsberg of China; the dumplings are really average.”

Shandong Restaurant

Shandong was the nicest looking of the restaurants we visited, with a large table and a smooth lazy Susan. This might not seem like something special, but it makes the sharing of dumplings with large groups better, and they even have tables that can seat 10. They had a photo menu in color, so also the best menu of the day.

Shangdong Restaurant Phnom Penh

So hard not to eat, so hard not to hate yourself while doing it.

We tried steamed and $2 fried dumplings and $2 pizza-pancake-thing. The fried dumplings were excellent, crisp on the outside, steamed pork and chives on the inside. The pizza was good, although very thin almost like a crispy chive crepe. It was hard to not eat more, even while thinking it was sort of disgusting. The steamed dumplings were weak, though. That said, they sold Tsingtao for $2 for a large bottle and kept bringing us new ones, so we really had nothing to complain about.

“The toilets are immaculate!”

Sichuan Restaurant

We ordered $2 fried dumplings, $1.50 pizza and a map dofu. The pizza was more like a deep-fried pancake. It was awful and so, so, so delicious, the perfect beer food. The mapo dofu was revolting and gloopy and the dumplings were watery inside. On the plus side, the owner was nice, and they served kimchi as a condiment.

Sichuan Restaurant Phnom Penh

The largest dumplings of the crawl.

“Smallest bowls, biggest dumplings.”
“I’m glad we came this way and didn’t walk backwards.”
“Everything is heavier and oilier than the rest which is good, because we’re drunk.”
“This place disappoints me the most because it promises so much but delivers so little.”

Yue Xiang Cai Guan

We started out at lunch time, and by the time we got to Yue Xiang Cai Guan there many quizzical looking Chinese couples eating dinner and wondering what we were up to. We had already eaten dumplings at four restaurants and brought a small dog into all four without complaint. We figured this, our fifth, would be the last. None of us were hungry at this point, and we mistook a bottle of $2 Chinese SNOW beer for MONS beer (read it upside-down).

Yue Xiang Cia Guan Phnom Penh

Oh no!

Yue Xiang Cai Guan had excellent steamed dumplings ($2) but the pancakes/pizza that we ordered–just for the sake of comparison, not out of any actual hunger–turned out to be brought in from Sichuan Restaurant where we had just eaten. This place had a nice interior and was probably really good, but we were all too full to be able to appreciate it.

“These are my favorite steamed dumplings.”
“I feel sick.”

Herk Fung

Street 136, Phnom Penh
T: 012 185 5589

Pei Jing Restaurant

93 Street 136, Phnom Penh
T: 012 723 981

Shandong Restaurant

103 Street 136, Phnom Penh

Sichuan Restaurant

111 Street 136, Phnom Penh

Yue Xiang Cai Guan

97 Street 136, Phnom Penh
T: 097 894 8896; 097 367 5998