Review: Man Hao Ji Noodle Shop, Phnom Penh

Posted on November 27, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

There are a number of Chinese noodle shops in Phnom Penh, but newcomer Man Hao Ji Noodle Shop gives the rest a run for their money. This new Taiwanese-run restaurant on Street 118 has a small menu, but after eating there three days in a row (it’s that good), I can say that every item on it is fantastic.

Garlicky smacked cucumbers at Man Hao Ji.

Garlicky smacked cucumbers at Man Hao Ji.

In my household, we cook pretty regularly from Fuchsia Dunlop’s amazing Chinese cookbook, Every Grain of Rice. So imagine my delight when I was brought to a new Chinese restaurant serving up dishes exactly like the ones I’d been attempting to create at home. This bodes well for the authenticity of both my cookbook and the restaurant, I think. I was also buoyed by the fact that the restaurant is Taiwanese run, because the Chinese food I ate in Taipei was undeniably better than what I ate when spending a month in China, traveling around the country and gorging myself.

Chinese noodle shop Man Hao Ji Phnom Penh

Newcoming to the Chinese noodle competition in Phnom Penh, Man Hao Ji.

Man Hao Ji’s menu features several noodle soups and bowls of handmade noodles. Their speciality is beef noodle soup, cooked in the Chinese style with red braised beef flavored with star anise and Shaoxing wine. At $5, it’s the most expensive thing on the menu, but well worth it. The broth is richer and meatier than anything I’ve tasted in town, and would make your typical kuy teav selling tear up in shame. The other noodle dishes I tried were also really good, zhajiangmian, called Beijing mixed noodles, ($3) and Arhat vegetable noodles ($2). The Arhat noodles are named after a term for someone who has attained nirvana in Buddhism, and, unlike most vegetable dishes in Cambodia, is actually vegetarian.

Chinese beef noodles

Fragrant beef noodles, flavored with star anise. Seriously beefy.

The non-noodle dishes are just as good. Garlicky cucumbers in Chinkiang vinegar ($1), “aroma sauce of beef tendon,” beef stir-fried with cucumbers ($2), boiled dumplings with a spicy chili sauce ($3) and Shaoxing wine chicken ($3) were all delicious and excellent value. The only dish that I wasn’t as keen on was the pork knuckles, which was just a plate of cold pork knuckles and not much else going on.

The friendly waitress is from Taiwan and doesn’t know Khmer, but speaks English to recommend her favorite dishes (she likes the Beijing mixed noodles). They have Cambodia beer on draft but haven’t figured out how to work it yet, so bring beers in from the mini-mart next door if you want to save yourself some frustration.

Beef and cucumber stir-fry. Try it.

Beef and cucumber stir-fry. Try it.

Man Hao Ji is one of those small restaurants that’s either going to be a big hit or fold in a few months due to lack of business. The food is authentic, delicious, and cheap and the place is definitely worth a visit, so please keep them afloat until my next visit to Phnom Penh.

Man Hao Ji Noodle Shop

39 Street 118 (at Street 17), Daun Penh, Phnom Penh
T: 089 265 065

Learning Khmer: Natural Khmer at LINK

Posted on November 13, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

Sadly, LINK closed down operations in July, 2016. This article is no longer up-to-date.

After a few months in the Kingdom, most expats relegate learning Khmer to the same category as scheduling dental checkups, something we should do but conveniently don’t ever find time for. Language Institute of Natural Khmer (LINK) in Phnom Penh offers a new method of learning Khmer through listening and has a conveniently flexible schedule. I tried a few classes to see how it worked.

Language Institute Natural Khmer

At LINK, teachers speak Khmer and act out what they are saying to help students learn the language.

Natural Khmer classes at LINK believe that the best way to learn any language is the same way that children do, through listening. Each class has two teachers, who speak Khmer throughout, using acting, props, body language, and charts to help explain what they are saying. It’s a bit like watching a game of charades, entirely in Khmer. In the beginner classes, students are asked to only speak English until Khmer comes naturally and they are at the intermediate level. It’s an unconventional method, but one that the manager, David, believes is superior to word lists and flashcards.

In Cambodia, a surprising majority of expats don’t speak Khmer, or only enough to get by. There’s a reason for this, David Jacobs, the manager of LINK, explained. “It’s not like French or Spanish where you can just go to the country and assimilate some of the language just from listening. You can watch TV or spend time listening to Khmers and it doesn’t necessarily help improve your language skills,” he told me. “That’s what’s different about the class — the teachers give context.”

Like many expats, I can speak quite a lot of Khmer, but have a hard time understanding what’s said to me. This puts me in the uncomfortable position of having to talk non-stop when my neighbor drops by in order to not give her the chance to ask me any questions.

This is normal, David said. “Many students come to us with this problem, they have vocabulary but no listening skills. That’s what we work to improve.”

Learning Khmer through listening, not speaking

Most expats learn to speak Khmer by learning vocabulary, but LINK suggests the focus should be on listening.

I went to two classes and it’s true that being forced to listen (and getting to listen to people who won’t switch into English or walk away the minute it becomes clear that you don’t understand) is illuminating. I appreciated that, for the most part, the teachers spoke slowly and clearly enough for me to understand, and they repeated what they said often. Some of my private tutors haven’t been willing to slow down, which can be frustrating.

However, it’s also true that I found it very difficult to make sense of the differences between certain things — think “want to” verus “want” — and would have appreciated an explanation. David said that he’s been learning Khmer entirely through the Natural Khmer technique and he seemed quite fluent for someone that has only been in the country for two years, but I would say that Natural Khmer classes would probably be better as an addition to more traditional language classes rather than a student’s entire course of study.

“The classes are a good listening and speaking supplement to other studying,” one intermediate student told me. “I’m not sure that it’s the absolute best way to learn Khmer, but I find the lessons entertaining and worthwhile, and I like that I can just attend class when I want without a fixed schedule.”

The flexible schedule is perhaps the best part of the Natural Khmer program. There are six beginner classes Monday through Friday, and four on Saturdays. Students are welcome to drop in and come whenever they want. Classes are $5 each if you buy them as you go. If you buy more than 10 classes at a time, you pay $4 per class, and prices go down further if you buy larger chunks of time. The first class is free, so if you’re wondering if the “natural learning” technique will work for you, it’s worth checking it out.

Language Institute of Natural Khmer (LINK)

Sovannaphumi School 4th Floor, Street 200 (between Norodom Blvd and Street 51), Phnom Penh
T: 012 293 764
naturalkhmer.com

Water Festival in Siem Reap

Posted on November 6, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

Cambodia’s Water Festival is a traditionally Phnom Penh-centric affair. The first Water Festival celebration in Siem Reap took place was in 2001. That year, it was a small affair with just 20,000 people showing up to watch the races. This year couldn’t be more different. The streets around the river are closed to traffic, and Siem Reap has become a pedestrian paradise as everyone from the province has flooded into town to watch the boat races. Dozens of street food vendors are out hawking their wares, and local restaurants have dropped their prices for the Water Festival hordes (Blue Pumpkin are selling scoops of ice cream for $1). Locals, tourists, and expats were enjoying the carnival-like atmosphere that went on long after nightfall. If you didn’t head to see the Bon Om Touk festivities yesterday, it’s well worth a visit today.

Water Festival is here!

Posted on November 5, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

Here in Cambodia, Water Festival, or Bon Om Touk, is upon us. The Tonle Sap and Mekong River are the heart and soul of Cambodia; every November the Tonle Sap changes its course and Cambodians gather in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap to watch boat races to mark the occasion. This year, the celebration takes place on November 5th, 6th, and 7th.

Phnom Penh Water Festival

Preparations for Water Festival in Phnom Penh. Photo by Jeff Mudrick.

Water Festival gets a bad rap amongst expats. The week leading up to Water Festival is affectionately referred to as “robbery season,” because so many bag-snatchings take place. Every year, millions of Khmers from the countryside flood Phnom Penh (and to a much lesser extent, Siem Reap) and the streets are packed with families who have set up camp on the sidewalk, sometimes days in advance, waiting for the festivities to begin. Unsurprisingly, petty crimes rises when the city is flooded with poor relations.

This is what expats usually gripe about: the streets are packed, traffic is at a standstill, stores are closed, and crime is up. In 2010, there was a stampede during the Water Festival on Koh Pich in Phnom Penh that killed more than 350 people. There hasn’t been a Bon Om Touk celebration in the city since then, until this year.

But the Water Festival also offers a glimpse of Cambodian culture that shouldn’t be missed. If you’re in Phnom Penh, head to the riverside to watch the boat races. They have special grandstand seating set up for foreigners–or anyone willing to pay to sit there–that have unobscured views of the river. If you’re planning to head into the crowds, leave your valuables at home but bring sun protection and water. Once you find a seat you’ll probably not want to leave. In the evenings, there are fireworks.

Savvy Phnom Penh expats head to riverside apartments to watch the races. If you don’t have friends with a riverside balcony, considering getting a hotel room for the day. Check out the sign up using the code MTCAM you’ll get a $15 credit (and so will we!). Agoda also often has good same-day deals on Phnom Penh riverside hotels.

Siem Reap Water Festival

Siem Reap’s sleepy river in the days leading up to Water Festival.

Water Festival celebrations in Siem Reap are much less crowded but just as enthusiastic, with a carnival-like atmosphere, games and rides. Boat races are on today and tomorrow, with 34 boats set to compete. Like the festival itself, the boats in Siem Reap are smaller but no less colorful. At night, there are floating candles and fireworks.

Introducing Siem Reap Food Tours

Posted on November 3, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

Over here at Move to Cambodia we’ve long been working on another project that revolves around one of our favorite things about Cambodia: the food. I’m delighted to finally announce the launch of our new venture, Siem Reap Food Tours.

Siem Reap market tour

Eating street food in Siem Reap doesn’t have to be scary.

We’ll be offering a scenic morning tour that takes visitors to markets, village kitchens, and local restaurants. You’ll be able to sample an exciting array of delicious Khmer dishes, street food, and snacks, which might include Cambodian breakfast staples like bobor, a savory rice porridge, and kuy tiev, a local noodle soup, as well as exotic tropical fruits and treats like prahet (fried fish cakes) or a dessert made of a special dried tree resin afloat in sweet coconut broth. We offer morning tours so that guests can experience Siem Reap’s busy morning markets while enjoying cooler morning temperatures. Also, traditional breakfast dishes are amazing–some of our favorite foods in Cambodia. Tours start around 8 a.m. and last between three and four hours.

num banh chok

A classic Cambodian breakfast: num banh chok.

We start and end in the Old Market area, but will travel far and wide, to places you would probably never find otherwise! We’ll take you into the bustle of a Siem Reap morning and explore local markets, then head through rice paddies and temples to a village that’s home to a breakfast dish that’s part of Khmer folklore. We return to Siem Reap for our final culinary adventure via one of the country’s most scenic drives.

We’ve also added an evening tour, because we know that you might want to spend your mornings at the temples! Our evening tour starts at 5 p.m., and we sample everything from Cambodian BBQ to frogs stuffed with kroeung, a fragrant curry paste that is one of the defining ingredients of Khmer cuisine. We’ll even throw in a few Cambodian beers if you’re so inclined. The evening tour is a fun and relaxed way to get acquainted with Siem Reap and Cambodian food.

Please let us know of any food allergies in advance. If you’re a strict vegetarian you probably won’t like our tour; most Cambodian soup and noodle bases have a small amount of fish sauce or meat in the stock, but we can avoid red meat and gluten, if you’re so inclined. We have more information on our website, siemreapfoodtours.com.

Siem Reap market food tour

Getting a laugh (and a giant bag of veg) at the market in Siem Reap.

Tours cost $75 per person, and include all food, drinks, and transportation during the tour. In order to provide a truly personal in-depth experience, we limit our tours to no more than four people. For an additional fee, we can give you an entirely private tour. Either way, please book in advance.

Siem Reap Food Tours is run by Lina Goldberg, notorious glutton and the author of Move to Cambodia: A guide to living and working in the Kingdom of Wonder. Steven Halcrow, whose resume includes cooking at Scotland’s only Michelin two-star restaurant, serves as tour guide, drawing on the insights he gained working with local ingredients in the kitchen of Siem Reap’s most acclaimed eatery, Cuisine Wat Damnak.

To book a tour, visit siemreapfoodtours.com or email info@siemreapfoodtours.com.

How to decide if you should give birth in Cambodia

Posted on October 14, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

A few years ago, very few expats would have considered having a baby in Cambodia. They were willing to raise a child here, but they weren’t going to give birth in Cambodia unless they had no other choice. These days, though, there are good Thai hospitals in Cambodia and there’s even a promised neonatal intensive care unit coming in the new Royal Phnom Penh Hospital (Royal Rattanak has moved locations and changed their name). When you are making the decision about where to give birth there are many factors to consider, but more and more expats are choosing to give birth in Cambodia.

Giving birth in Cambodia

Mom and baby after an uneventful and happy birth in Siem Reap.

We talked to four expat moms about how they decided to have a baby in-country or to leave, and what factors you should consider when making this decision.

Rachel: “I decided to have my second child in Cambodia as it was my home and we had the existing set up family support for our then young daughter. I also did not wish to spend a month or so in Bangkok. I had gone home to the UK for the birth of my first child and as everything went well with a natural birth, I decided that I was comfortable having the second baby here with the support of an experienced British midwife in a local government clinic.

Pain relief was not widely available however so there was no gas and air for example, which helped with the delivery of my first child. I was happy with my experience, we were at the clinic for only three hours before returning home with our new baby, and would deliver a future child in Cambodia if there were not signs of complications.”

Barb: “I had a baby in Phnom Penh earlier this year. I chose Royal Rattanak Hospital after being referred by medical professionals that I trusted. My pregnancy was considered higher risk going in; it was my first baby and I am in my late thirties. I was prepared to travel to Bangkok via taxi if the monitoring showed any risk to the baby or myself, but it ended up not being necessary. I also stayed in contact with my family doctor in Australia when I wanted a second opinion.

I was kept on fetal monitors throughout the labor, which measure the baby’s heart rate and contractions. This meant that I couldn’t get up and walk around between contractions or anything like you read about in the natural childbirth books. No showers or birthing pools or anything like that. It was just old school lie on a bed and have a baby, a lot like how it looks in the movies, but far less pleasant.

I had intended to have a natural childbirth, but ended up requesting a C-section after about eight hours of labor. The extra staff had already been placed on standby in case this happened and they arrived very quickly. The entire procedure was explained before it happened or while it was happening, and I wasn’t afraid.

Expat baby born in Phnom Penh

This happy baby was born in Phnom Penh.

I know having a baby in Phnom Penh isn’t for everyone. I’ve lived in Cambodia for nearly ten years and would have felt very isolated in Bangkok. The other option was to go to Australia, but you have to fly so early and wait for paperwork, so it ends up being around three months, and my work and business commitments would have made that difficult. I have heard the criticisms of my decision to have my child here, but I can assure everybody that my decision was considered and not entered into lightly.”

Narisa: “I can’t speak to options in Phnom Penh, but in general I would go to Bangkok rather than stay in Siem Reap for any in-patient medical procedure. In general the level of medical care and comfort is much, much higher–there is a choice of hospitals and I looked at Bumrungrad, BNH and Samitivej–all very good hospitals. Also in Bangkok there is a large community of doulas and I wanted to have a doula with me during my birth.

Samitivej in particular is known for being very good for natural birth. They have two very large, comfortable and attractive (for a hospital) birthing rooms, with a tub, mattress, chair, and various other things (railing to lean on, giant balance ball, etc). There is room to walk around and plenty of room for husband and doula to be present. As it turned out, I ended up not having natural birth but a C-section instead. The nurses in the maternity ward are extremely experienced and helpful, and the maternity ward itself is separate and private from the rest of the hospital, with a security guard at the entrance.”

Kirsty: “There are obviously a million what-ifs, and pregnant woman face those every day anyway. For me, the risk of alcohol wasn’t worth it so I abstained. But risk of soft cheeses be damned, and I ate those. Both can have terrible outcomes, but I did what I was comfortable with. Basically, deciding whether or not to deliver your child in a developing country comes down to gut feeling. I was comfortable staying my entire first pregnancy, the second I left earlier on medical advice which I strongly agreed with.

A pregnant woman needs to consider how much support she’ll have, how comfortable she is with the hospital, how much pre-natal testing she’s comfortable with and if she wants to travel for some or forgo it. But ultimately she has to ask herself a question that haunted me throughout my pregnancies – what if? If your child is born too early but would have survived if you’d gone home, if you get substandard care and your child is deprived of oxygen during delivery, if their neck gets broken, if you’ve given an archaic solution to something routine, if you can’t establish breastfeeding, if you get PPD, if you’re given a c-section that leaves a Frankenscar, if you don’t heal well or have a serious injury during delivery, if baby has a defect, if you’re tricked into believing a local old wife’s tale and it harms your baby or yourself…if something happens that you come to realize was entirely preventable or could have been managed more simply if you were in a developed country. What if?

For me, in the end, I left the first time because I wanted to be around my sister and really, really didn’t want a C-section. It was absolutely the right choice for me and I don’t regret it for a minute. I also don’t regret being pregnant in a developing country and having to leave in a hurry second time around (and I’m really glad I left as all predictions came true). Instincts are really important.

Whatever people choose to do, even just to be pregnant in a developing country, self-education is key. The parents need to know what is done in the West and how to manage the differences as best you can. To know where to look for support and advice, because having the baby is only the beginning.”

Veterinary care in Cambodia

Posted on October 7, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

If you’ve gone through the trouble of importing a pet into Cambodia or adopted one here, you may be wondering where to go for veterinary services for your pet. Most expats agree that it’s worth splashing out to get veterinary care in Cambodia from an expat veterinarian, as the local vets are mostly untrained and are just as likely to make the problem worse as they are to make it better.

Wondering where to get care for your pet? We've got our paws on the pulse.

Wondering where to get care for your pet? We’ve got our paws on the pulse of vet care in the Kingdom.

Phnom Penh

PPAWS (Phnom Penh Animal Welfare Society) has a clinic that offers spaying, neutering, and vaccinations for dogs and cats. Proceeds are used to support PPAWS programs to spay and neuter stray animals and help find homes for pagoda pets. Vaccinations cost between $10 and $25, cat spaying costs $65 and dog spaying costs around $95, depending on the size of the animal. Discounts are sometimes possible based on need. The clinic is open Tuesdays through Friday and Sundays, but call or email in advance because it can be difficult to find.

PPAWS (Phnom Penh Animal Welfare Society)

Beoung Tumpun, Phnom Penh
T: 017 293 654 (English); 078 611 289 (Khmer)
ppaws.com

Agrovet is considered the best veterinary clinic among all Cambodia vets. Run by a French veterinarian, the hospital is run to European standards and have prices to match. And while expats do gripe about the cost (consultations start at $25), most will admit that the place is the best option for your pets. They treat all types, but specialize in the canine and feline variety. There are several local vets on staff, but you’re best off with the French vet. If you’re outside of Phnom Penh and haven’t had luck with the vets in your town, it’s worth a visit to the capital and an appointment at Agrovet.

Agrovet

33B Street 360 (between Monivong Blvd and Street 63), BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 023 216 323
agrovet-cambodia.com

Siem Reap

Sadly, American veterinarian Dr. Don Gillespie has left town, but Siem Reap is still lucky to have veterinary nurse Katie Russell, who owns a small veterinary clinic, Siem Reap Veterinary Services. Ms. Russell, an Australian-certified veterinary nurse has more than ten years experience in Australia and Southeast Asia. The clinic primarily treats cats and dogs, and she offers consultations, vaccinations, parasite treatment and prevention, grooming and general health care advice. The clinic gets regular visits from vets every few months for neutering and spaying, and is looking for a Western vet to bring on full time. Consultations are available by appointment weekdays from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Siem Reap Veterinary Services

Wat Damnak Village, Siem Reap
T: 071 998 4413
facebook.com/Siem-Reap-Veterinary-Services

Sihanoukville

Expats speak highly of Dr. Roman Kuleshov, a young Russian veterinarian who runs the Happy Pets Veterinary Clinic in Sihanoukville. He does consultations by appointment only between 9:00 a.m. and 7:00 p.m. daily, but takes emergency calls at any time. He also makes house calls!

Dr. Kuleshov has a complete price list on his Facebook page (and we do mean complete). Consultations are $10 or $15 and he administers various vaccinations that cost between $10 and $30. For $5 you can get an international health certificate, aka a pet passport. Happy Vets treats dogs, cats, birds, and wild animals.

Happy Pets Veterinary Clinic

Emario Beach Resort, Victory Hill, Sihanoukville [map]
T: 098 215 104
facebook.com/Veterinary-Clinic-Happy-Pets

Kampot

PPAWS (Phnom Penh Animal Welfare Society) has recently started a program to bring a vet to Kampot on a regular basis, to offer vaccinations and spaying and neutering services. Contact PPAWS for more details, or watch the Kampot & Kep Noticeboard for Expats & Locals Facebook group for upcoming dates. The next date is October 11th, contact Rainer at 096 77 64 128 to make an appointment.

Got a suggestion for where to get vet care in Cambodia or want to update one of our listings? Submit it here.

Building a fence in Siem Reap

Posted on September 18, 2014 by Steven Halcrow

So you’ve completed your move to a nice big Cambodian style house, and you got it for a knockdown price, but there is just one problem: it needs a bit of work done. You were braced for this before you moved in, even excited by the prospect but now you are actually there, you realize that your DIY skills never really progressed past building Lego houses as a child.

The list of jobs is not overly intimidating as none of them involve any major plumbing or wiring expertise, but they do require some planning and the acquisition of appropriate materials. You may be tempted to just find a local that can do the work for you but there is no denying the sense of pride you will feel when your carefully constructed DIY masterplan becomes a reality.

Building a fence in Siem Reap

It’s both easier and harder than you might think.

After moving to a more rural existence in Siem Reap, we realized we’d need to put up a fence in order to gain slightly more privacy from the neighbors and stop the constant stream of chickens and feral dogs from pooping all over our garden. Barbed wire makes an effective barricade and a 30-kilo roll will set you back around $40. Don’t be put off if you are asked to buy the whole lot, even if you only need 20 kilos, as unfurling barbed wire is no walk in the park. Most places will be happy to refund you for what you don’t use, but be sure to clarify this beforehand. We bought ours from the well-stocked and friendly hardware store beside the bridge, a quarter mile down the road after making the right turn at Le Meridian on the road to Angkor Wat. The store also has a plentiful supply of PVC pipe, plumbing supplies, various wires, tools and chain link fence.

If barbed wire reminds you too much of prison and doesn’t afford you the privacy you require then you can always use wood, or even rolls of threaded bamboo to make your fence. On High School Road there are numerous wood/lumber yards but not all of them sell rolls of bamboo fence and not all of them speak enough English as to even entertain the notion of an actual transaction. For this reason it helps if you take someone who can speak Khmer, preferably a Khmer. A roll of threaded bamboo set us back $8 for a 1.5 metre high and 4.5 metre long roll and was considerably less work than constructing the fence from planks of wood.

For nails, wire, screws, etc. you can visit the aforementioned store or, alternatively you can head to Psar Chas. The hardware store opposite Warehouse is smaller and less widely stocked but still sells all kind of hardware treats to assist you. Nails and screws are charged by the kilo and finishing stains for woods and some small power tools can also be bought from these guys as well as hammers, screwdrivers, paint brushes, locks, hinges etc., etc., etc.

So, having acquired my fence-building kit (50 meters of bamboo fence, a healthy roll of wire, a kilo of 2 inch long nails, a hammer and a set of pliers) I was ready to go. The barbed wire and wood staked fence was already in place so unrolling and nailing the fence up was time consuming but straight-forward. I then re-enforced it by attaching the bamboo fence to the barbed wire using the regular wire and then tightened it with the pliers. It took two days and cost just over $100. A bit more expensive than a Lego set but just as fun to make.

We may not win any awards for innovation or style, but the shabby yet charming appearance of our new fence blends in nicely with the Cambodian neighborhood and we are also very happy that our lovely garden is no longer moonlighting as a public toilet for dogs.