Cambodia expat blog: Cambodia travel tips, advice, and info

Review: Angkor Chom Bungalows, Koh Rong

Posted on February 20, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

With perfect white sand beaches, swaying palm trees, and turquoise waters, Koh Rong’s western side is ripe for development. For the time being, though, there are only a few simple bungalows, of which Angkor Chom is easily the best option.

A little slice of heaven on Koh Rong.

The miles-long stretch of white sand is called Long Beach, and it’s home to a few sets of crappy bungalows, notably Sok San “Resort” and Broken Hearts Guesthouse, both of which are run-down and not particularly appealing. Angkor Chom, on the other hand, is simple but clean, with a local, rustic charm. Although it doesn’t have many amenities, it’s a great place to spend a few days relaxing.

We discovered Angkor Chom when we traveled to Koh Rong two years ago to write reviews for a travel guide. We visited Sok San and quickly ascertained that it wasn’t the sort of place we would want to stay. Rumor had it that the village chief, a Mr. Chrouk (chrouk means “pig” in Khmer), was in the process of setting up his own bungalows to take advantage of the large number of dissatisfied visitors who bailed out of Sok San and had nowhere else to go. When we returned in January 2011, the four bungalows of what was then known as Angkor Chum were not completely finished, but they were already filled with customers.

This was Angkor Chom in 2011. Not much has changed.

Two years later, the place has six bungalows and still seems to be pretty solidly booked.We had a peek inside and can report that the accommodations look much the same as they did when they were first built: simple wooden bungalows that contain two beds, two chairs, and a table. Each has its own private bathroom; like 95 percent of the bathrooms on Koh Rong, these contain simple scoop showers and toilets. Each bungalow also has its own private balcony overlooking the water. That’s an understatement–at high tide the sea laps at the bungalow support beams, making the balcony an ideal spot to enjoy Koh Rong’s gorgeous sunsets.

Angkor Chum is part of the small Sok San village, and there’s not much else around. A restaurant, also owned by Mr. Chrouk, serves up typical Khmer dishes, many of which are made with freshly caught seafood brought in each day by the local fishermen from the village.

A view of Long Beach and Angkor Chom bungalows on Koh Rong.

They aren’t kidding at Angkor Chom when they say “seaview”!

Angkor Chum is not the place to go to if you’re looking for a party. (That’s on the other side of Koh Rong, near Monkey Island). But if what you seek is a quiet place to relax, it can’t be beat.

Koh Rong’s Long Beach — Angkor Chom is on the northern end.

Rooms cost $20 during high season, but they will go down to $15 if you stay for a couple of nights. If you can bargain, you can get them for $10 in low season. Make a reservation by phone (I’ve included five phone numbers that may or may not work, but were current as of February, 2013) and they can arrange a boat from Sihanoukville for you.

Angkor Chom bungalows
Long Beach, Koh Rong
T: 016 953 895; 097 795 3895; 078 559 959; 016 551 612; 034 555 5170

Expat Q&A: The lighter side of life

Posted on February 19, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they wish they had known when they first moved to Cambodia that they know now.

This week we talk to David T., an Australian who likes long walks around Samdach Hun Sen Park and slurping down some pho during a candlelit dinner. David grew up in Bundaberg, a town renowned for its progressive nature and cultural offerings, yet nine months of wholesome living in Phnom Penh and he now calls the Charming City home.

Oh, just a saltwater infinity pool looking out over the rice paddies.

MTC: David (a.k.a ‘Dreamy Dave’) what do you know now that you wish you had known when you first moved to Cambodia?

DD: “Hi my name is David T. and I moved to Cambodia to make a difference!” Ok so perhaps that is not wholly true… throw in a touch of desire to abdicate from responsibility and having the time to work on my tan. Nevertheless, let the record show my intentions were admirable, regardless of how far I’ve fallen since my arrival almost a year ago.

In the famous words of Thomas Gray “Where ignorance is bliss, ’tis folly to be wise,” I must concur. Part of the great joy I derive from Cambodia is in the unidentifiable foods I consume and seemingly irrational human behaviour witnessed on a daily basis. That being said, there are a couple of things that I do wish I knew then that I didn’t, and even a few tidbits of wisdom I can impart on you the reader.

Can I purchase everything I need to live a comfortable lifestyle in Phnom Penh? Yes. I can’t speak for those suffering a medical condition, but in terms of the normal consumables required to sustain life for the younger male species, I have never wanted for anything. For full disclosure, being a well-built man (feel free to conjure images of Adonis), at times I have struggled to find fashionable threads for under two dollars off the rack. A few tears later I sucked it up, visited a reasonably priced tailor and moved on with my life.

Hot Tip – They’ve done studies, on Angry Bird jocks. 60% of the time, they work every time. No thanks necessary. [Ed note: Jocks are men’s underwear in Australian]

Can I drive a moto without a helmet? Not if you want me to call you a hero you can’t.

Do I need expat insurance? Yes, if you don’t want me to call you a bloody idiot. Granted there is a high risk for some this may occur anyhow. With the worst that has happened to me whilst in country being a mild case of dengue (discounting a few near death red wine hangovers) I really am not a poster boy for the insurance industry. That being said, Cambodia is not renowned for its medical system or capabilities, so the chances of requiring a medevac do increase significantly even for non-life threatening cases. Save yourself potentially having to service a lifelong debt and consider insurance options before your move to Cambodia.

Is it a fact that expats in Cambodia need to travel in packs? Trick question. You can fall into the comfort trap of moving to Cambodia and staying in a tight knit circle of fellow expats who hail from your home country. This works for some, and I won’t judge those that toe this line, as I myself have been guilty of the same.

Whilst it is a case of each to their own, I encourage all new expats to get involved with the Khmer community. These interactions have produced my most rewarding and memorable experiences to date. Personally though, I hope to spend more time in 2013 getting involved with the French community… consider my olive branch extended.

Also I can’t deny that the more you put yourself out there, the more you will be subjected to painful goodbyes, what can I say, toughen up princess love hurts. Fact.

Do I have to subject myself to bars in order to socialise? Look I am not going to lie, there are some world-class expat socialites (a.k.a. alcoholics) in Cambodia, but if drinking copious amounts of alcohol and losing all inhibitions is not your cup a tea, there are a plethora of other social avenues. For instance I would recommend a natural adrenaline high at Dream Land theme park as you contemplate the Cambodian safety standards, a quaint dinner at one of the thousand top quality restaurants, or perhaps indulge your cultural side by exploring the budding art scene developing in Phnom Penh.

Are there any towns outside of Phnom Penh and Siem Reap worth visiting? Time for your mind to be blown, there are towns where the predominate form of transport is not in a Lexus. Treat yourself (you do deserve it after all) and go see the real Cambodia, or if you are just looking for a weekender I like to put my feet up in Kampot and Battambang.

At the end of the day Cambodia has a lot to offer. If I knew then what I do now, I probably would have moved here a lot earlier.

Phnom Penh’s Beer Garden BBQs

Posted on February 15, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

When expats in Cambodia talk about beer gardens, it’s usually to bemoan the lack of rights for the female beer sellers or to dismiss the places out of hand as dens of iniquity. And while those are certainly valid concerns, there’s one thing the nay-sayers neglect to mention: you’ll find some of the best food in Phnom Penh at its beer gardens.

A pitcher of Angkor Beer at a Cambodian BBQ

Ankgor beer: Tastes better by the pitcher.

Cambodian beer gardens vary widely in their wholesomeness. Some are simply restaurants packed with the after-work crowd and serving dishes – usually of the barbecued meat variety, but featuring stir-fried seafood and vegetables as well – that are best accompanied by pitchers of beer. Others are as bad as you’ve heard, complete with karaoke performances and beer sellers whose job descriptions include more than just pouring pitchers.

In central Phnom Penh, though, the former outweigh the latter and you’re more likely to get a succulent plate of ribs than any sort of female attention. In fact, at the better beer gardens the beer sellers (please don’t call them beer girls) are unionized and wear notices asking to be treated respectfully.

So be prepared to pour your own beer, at least occasionally, and allow yourself to enjoy some of the least expensive, tastiest meals in town.

Be sure to try the pork ribs at 54 Langeach Sros with lime and pepper dipping sauce.

54 Langeach Sros

Definitely one of Phnom Penh’s culinary bright spots, 54 Langeach Sros serves a mean plate of ribs – tangy with a hint of sweetness and slightly spicy. Don’t bother ordering just one plate. The ribs can take a half-hour to arrive, but they’re always worth it. Goat with black ants, “fried fish on the fire lake” (a complicated dish that involves a whole deep-fried fish cooked at the table in a pool of coconut curry), and crab with young green pepper are all excellent and remarkably affordable.

15A St 178
Tel: 017 455 454

Solida Restaurant

There’s a row of Khmer BBQ restaurants along the river on Koh Pich, and locals claim that this one is the best of the bunch. They offer three-liter beer towers of Angkor for just 23,000 riel and throw in an extra pitcher for good luck, so I’m not inclined to disagree. Try the cha g’dao sach moan, or stir-fried spicy chicken with basil, and the barbecued beef, or sach ko ang, which is melt-in-your-mouth delicious. Menu (and signage) is all in Khmer.

Koh Pich, along the riverside, Phnom Penh
Tel: 012 500 190; 097 708 5006

Plates of food at Sovanna BBQ Phnom Penh

Sovanna BBQ: Cheap and cheerful.

Sovanna Restaurant

Sovanna Restaurant has something to offer just about everyone. They have a newer, more upscale restaurant a few doors down, but aficionados claim that the menu, although the same, just isn’t as good as in the original location. Sovanna’s grilled beef and pork, tender, smoky and slightly sweet, are the standouts, but their sngor chrouk trey, fish soup with a lemongrass broth, lime juice and fresh herbs, is not to be missed. Their latest menu has photographs and English translations, making this a good first Khmer BBQ experience for out-of-town visitors.

2C St 21
Tel: 011 840 055

Expat Q&A: Help! I can’t leave Cambodia

Posted on February 11, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they wish they had known when they first moved to Cambodia that they know now.

This week we talk to Kristin O’Connell, an Australian with a corporate background who moved to Cambodia to work in the development sector. Kristin had never ventured out of Brisbane before moving to Phnom Penh three years ago.

Kristin enjoying one of her favorite things about Phnom Penh: the pools. Photo by Lauren Crothers.

MTC: Kristin, what do you know now that you wish you had known when you first moved to Cambodia?

KO’C: “For a long time prior to my move to Cambodia I had been following the country’s news from Australia. Because I had never been, my decision to apply for a 12-month position conjured visions of wooden houses, periods of boredom and limited cuisine options.

Dated blog posts coupled with the complaints of disgruntled travellers led to these and many other misconceptions.

Immediately on arrival almost all my expectations of life in Cambodia were turned on their head. Within a week I had fallen in love with my adopted city and knew that the initial commitment of 1 year was not going to be long enough.

If you are considering a move to Cambodia as an expat in 2013 some of your experiences will be the same same as mine, however in this rapidly changing country many will be different. With so much time having passed, I’ll try to talk about the things that me-of-the-past would like to know if moving to Cambodia today.

Things I wish I’d known about “development”

NGOs are not always what they appear. Development is a large and profitable sector with many seeking to capitalise on the flood of foreign aid. Look carefully into the background and practices of any organisation you plan to work with or support.

Not all Cambodians need or seek charity and generally the people best equipped to support those who do are Cambodian themselves. Broadly speaking, Cambodians are enthusiastic and entrepreneurial. Expect to feel more admiration than pity.

Not every woman in Cambodia has had to work as a prostitute and not all those employed as such necessarily want a change in circumstances. Try not to be condescending and throw out any preconceived ideas before you arrive.

Things I wish I’d known about workplace culture

In starting a new job, expect to obtain a second family. What may feel like invasions of privacy to a foreigner are very normal interactions between Cambodian co-workers. If you are single, expect to be offered marriage prospects from among your colleagues’ relatives more than once.

Respect for the hierarchy is important. Raise concerns and differences of opinion in private wherever possible. Nobody wants to see a workmate without a face.

You will be told it will be done. It will not be done. You will be told it is done already. It is not done already.

Things I wish I’d known about everyday living

Phnom Penh doesn’t have so many wooden stilt houses. Seriously, trying to live like a martyr is tough here. As an expat, the challenge of adjusting to life in Cambodia is not one of enduring daily hardship and dire poverty, although both exist here. The perfect house or apartment is out there although persistence may be required.

The capital and the provinces are like two separate countries. When outside Phnom Penh and tourist spots it is easy to see the source of the stereotypes that appear in the Western media. Try not to romanticise poverty.

There is no need to import bed sheets and electrical appliances from far flung corners of the globe. Just go to Central Market.

Things I wish I’d known about the social scene

With its complex and brutal history, Cambodia attracts a high number of interesting and entertaining expats. In addition to Cambodian friends I have met some of the most important people in my life here. While leaving friends at home behind is difficult there is little chance you will feel isolated once here.

There are many fantastic bars and more than enough to suit every taste. Alcohol is almost insanely cheap. Do not move here if looking to overcome alcoholism.

Cambodia is easy to love and even easier to return to. Living in such a transient city I have experienced a far greater number of goodbyes than one would wish for. The silver lining is what I like to call the ‘boomerang effect’ – most people whose departure is mourned simply can’t stay away for too long.

Cambodia is not a hardship posting. Don’t expect limited access to electricity, Internet or Reese’s Pieces. Those aiming to nobly sacrifice a privileged lifestyle for the good of humanity may need to look a little further.”

The funeral of King Father Norodom Sihanouk

Posted on February 8, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

All eyes in Phnom Penh have been on the Royal Palace this week. Journalist Faine Greenwood has captured some lovely shots from the funeral of King Father Norodom Sihanouk and kindly shared them with Move to Cambodia.

Lazily learning the Khmer language

Posted on February 7, 2013 by Marissa Carruthers

Marissa Carruthers is a freelance journalist who has left behind life in the UK for the sun and smiles of Cambodia. In her weekly column, she will be sharing the ups and downs of settling into life in Phnom Penh as an expat.

I think it’s fair to say that during my first three months in Cambodia I’ve become lazy when it comes to learning the language.

A collection of Khmer language flashcards.

Learning the Khmer language: not exactly child’s play.

I’d left the UK with a vision of being able to at least hold a basic conversation in Khmer after a few months but I’m ashamed to say I can barely ask a tuk tuk driver to turn right. I remember being shocked when I first arrived at the number of expats I met who said they don’t speak Khmer – in fact, now I’m surprised when I meet one who’s fluent – but I quickly learnt that living in Phnom Penh it’s easy to slip into a world where you can get around on English alone, and that’s exactly what I did.

Straight away, I picked up most of the essentials needed to get around but that was where my learning halted. I flirted with a few more words when some of the workers in my apartment block quizzed me on the English for certain things. They’d willingly return the favour by telling me in Khmer what a chopstick or helmet or whatever other object it is they wanted to know is but I’d struggle to get my mouth around the sounds and just couldn’t keep it in my head. The next day I’d bump into them outside and they’d yell over: “Chopstick. Now you in Khmer,” only to be met by a sheepish grin because I’d forgotten the second I was told.

I tried to learn a few more phrases but battled with the pronunciation and despite being greeted with a slightly surprised form of delight from a local when I tried to say something in Khmer, my clumsiness with the words eventually led to an embarrassment to even try.

Then a couple of weeks ago, lost in an area where no-one spoke English outside of my comfort zone where I can drink in an English coffee shop, eat an English breakfast and don’t have to learn the local language, I burst the bubble I’d been living in and realised how ridiculous and rude it was of me not to be able to ask for directions in a country that I’ve been living in for three months.

As soon as I got home, I enrolled in a Khmer class round the corner from where I live and while I’ve only had one lesson so far I’ve pushed myself to get over my embarrassment to try and practice whenever I can – and guess what, so far, in true Cambodian style, everyone has been more than happy to help. It may well take me a while to become anything close to fluent but I’m definitely glad to be trying.

Where to eat in Siem Reap

Posted on February 5, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

Expats perpetually suffer from “grass is greener” syndrome — those based in Siem Reap jealously keep tabs on the big city restaurant offerings found in Cambodia’s capital, but for this Phnom Penh expat, Siem Reap had more than enough to offer on a recent visit.

Because of Siem Reap’s massive tourist traffic, the dining scene is positively international, offering excellent French, Korean, Japanese and Italian choices, in addition to tasty Cambodian fare. No matter what your preference or budget is, Siem Reap has something delicious for dinner.

The best pizza pies in Siem Reap at Il Forno in the Old Market.

Off of Pub Street, Il Forno is dishing up some of the best pizza in Cambodia. Their speciality are perfect thin-crust Neapolitan wood-fired pizzas, but their homemade pasta dishes are also wonderful. If you have a few people, try their seafood platter with tuna and sea bass carpaccio and prawns to share.

Art or food? Make the decision yourself at Ababus in Siem Reap.

Serving French and Asian fusion dishes, Abacus offer one of Siem Reap’s tastiest fine-dining experiences. Those in the know rave about their lamb leg with olive sauce and the pan-fried beef tenderloin, but their seafood offerings are just as good–try the salmon on crabmeat bolognaise.

The interior of Siem Reap's Cuisine Wat Damnak

Treat yourself to a feast at Siem Reap’s Cuisine Wat Damnak.

Cuisine Wat Damnak is arguably the town’s best restaurant, with chef Joannès Rivière offering a modern interpretation of traditional Cambodian fare, in two delicious weekly set menus, with five courses for $19 and six courses for $26.

Siem Reap’s large Korean and Japanese expat population means you can find better offerings of these cuisines in town. Far down airport road is Happy Restaurant, one of the best Korean restaurants I’ve tried in Cambodia; their spicy pork bone soup is sublime. Cheap and cheerful Dae Bak is closer to town and has a barbecued pork set meal for $5 that will leave even the most ravenous visitor sated. Japanese restaurant Basho has a homestyle Japanese menu plus a few maki offerings (but if you’re looking for sushi and sashimi, head to Takezono at Sokha Angkor Resort for what locals claim is the be town’s best).

A packed table at Bopha Leak Khluon Restaurant in Siem Reap

For authentic Khmer fare, try Bopha Leak Khluon Restaurant in Siem Reap.

You’ll find the best Khmer food in town outside of the Old Market area, but still within walking distance. On Sivutha Boulevard there are many small Cambodian eateries. You can enjoy a delicious feast at Chanrea Dom Makara for just a few bucks per person. Try the prahok ktih, where the flavours of the pungent fish are tempered by rich coconut milk and fatty minced pork. Served with raw vegetables and tiny, bitter eggplants, this is prahok worth tasting. For slightly more upscale Khmer food, try Bopha Leak Khluon Restaurant. Their barbecued beef skewers are addictive, and the eggplant stuffed with pork and shrimp is divine. Study up on your Khmer before you go, though, they don’t have an English menu.

If you’re in the mood for more Western fare, La Boulangerie offers French-style breakfasts and quiches at reasonable prices. Tigre de Papier may sound like an entirely French affair, but their chicken shawarma is delicious–the perfect hangover-buster. Along the river, Rosy Guesthouse offers a full menu of Western dishes, including a plump, juicy burger with caramelized onions and cheese. Served with homemade pickles, coleslaw and chips, budget some extra time to finish the heaping plate.

Il Forno, The Lane, T: 078 208 174,
Abacus Garden Restaurant, Airport Road, T: 012 644 286
Cuisine Wat Damnak, Behind Wat Damnak Pagoda, T: 063 965 491
Happy Restaurant Korean Food, Airport Road
Dae Bak Restaurant, Sivutha Blvd, T: 092 355 811
Basho, Oum Khum Street
Takezono, Sokha Angkor Resort, Sivutha Blvd, T: 063 969 999
Chanrea Dom Makara, Sivutha Blvd, T: 012 925 530
Bopha Leak Khluon Restaurant, Samdech Tech Vong Street, T: 012 630 570
La Boulangerie, Street 7, T: 063 690 1501
Tigre de Papier, Pub Street, T: 012 265 811
Rosy Guesthouse, Achar Sva Street, T: 063 965 059

Italian on the Islands

Posted on January 30, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

Note: This post is out of date! La Mami has now become Da Matti? (but they still have homemade gnocchi and ravioli, traditional Italian pastas, and interesting cocktails). Read our full review of Da Matti? here.

Also, Beatrice and Fabrizio have left Koh Rong and Pura Vida is now Cambodian-owned, but still serving Italian food.

—

The Cambodian islands are full of surprises, not least of which is their curious emergence as a hotbed of Italian cuisine. While it’s true that you’ll find spag bol on the menu of every beachside shack on Serendipity, the results are uniformly disappointing. But venture a little further, to the islands of Koh Rong or Koh ta Kiev, and you’ll find some of the country’s best Italian food.

A stunning view of Long Set Beach on Koh Rong

The view from Pura Vida on Koh Rong.

Beatrice Falchini and Fabrizio Polci fell in love with Koh Rong when they first visited two years ago, and they’ve been back repeatedly. In early 2012 they opened Pura Vida, a small operation with a couple of bungalows and a restaurant on one of the island’s most picturesque beaches where developers are slated to build a luxury resort. “I said to Fabrizio, we need to go now,” Falchini said, explaining why they made the move from Rome to an undeveloped island off Cambodia’s coast. “We don’t know how much longer it will last. When they start to build the resort – when it will be like all the other islands in the world – we can go back to Italy.”

Pasta lunch at Pura Vida on Cambodia’s Koh Rong.

Before coming to Cambodia, Falchini worked as a caterer in Italy and Polci learned to cook from his grandmother. At Pura Vida, the couple dishes up Roman pasta specialities such as amatriciana and carbonara made with ingredients that you wouldn’t expect to find on an island, including imported pasta, extra-virgin Italian olive oil and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. For dessert they offer Italian coffee and a lovely mango cake that they can only make in the evenings, when they have four short hours of electricity for their oven. At around $7 their pasta dishes are more expensive than what you might find at the backpacker joints, but the food is delicious and astoundingly authentic. “We cook like home,” Falchini explains. “If you come to my home in Rome, we will cook the same.”

Located directly on Koh Rong’s pier, La Mami serves up real Italian food.

On Koh Rong’s Southwestern pier, mother-and-son team Laura Bellinazzi and Matteo Grignani recently opened La Mami restaurant and guesthouse, where they serve up Italian food, including an excellent $3 tomato bruschetta and an array of pasta dishes, from pesto to panna prosciutto piselli, for between $4 and $5.50. Perched on the jetty with the waves gently lapping below, it’s the perfect spot for an evening sundowner, whether a glass of wine or Campari and soda.

Matteo Grignani, one of the (Italian) brains behind La Mami on Koh Rong.

Originally from Milan, 20-year-old Grignani has competed in cooking competitions in Hungary, where the family has been running an agritourism guesthouse for many years. There, in addition to making their own all-natural prosciutto, salami, vinegars and spirits, they offer Italian cooking classes. And while they’ve decided to make the move from Hungary to Cambodia, they also serve a few Hungarian dishes — including several varieties of goulash — at La Mami as well.

A light snack at Ten103 Treehouse Bay on Koh ta Kiev, all homemade and all delicious.

Closer to shore on Koh ta Kiev, Ten103 Treehouse Bay offers some of the tastiest island food in Cambodia. The place is run by American chef Joel Fry, who spent five years cooking in Italy, including at a Michelin-starred restaurant. Fluent in Italian, Fry makes pasta from scratch and bakes his own bread, pastries, and pizzas in a wood-fired oven in the middle of the jungle, all without the benefit of electricity or running water.And though it might seem absurd that this gourmet cuisine is being prepared on the middle of a small, primitive island controlled by the Cambodian military, Fry has managed to make it work, serving up some of the most interesting, and delicious, dishes in the country.

Each evening he offers a daily special — when I visited it was hand-made tagliatelle pasta in a puttanesca white fish sauce with tomatoes, white wine, olives and capers, served with salad and fresh bread for $8. “People stay longer than they intend and I think it’s because of the food,” Fry said. They’ve been travelling for a long time, eating rice, and they want a taste of home.”

Pura Vida, Long Set Beach, Koh Rong
La Mami, Southwest pier, Koh Rong Closed
Ten103 Treehouse Bay, Koh ta Kiev; Tel: 097943 7587; ten103cambodia.com

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