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Review: Sokhalay Angkor Resort & Spa villas, Siem Reap

Posted on February 22, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

The Sokhalay Angkor Resort and Villa offers a true resort experience in the heart of Siem Reap. I had the pleasure to stay there recently as part of an assignment I was working on, and I was thoroughly impressed by the charming garden ambiance they’ve cultivated.

The Sokhalay Angkor pool is practically an ocea.

The Sokhalay Angkor is massive, and divided up into three separate properties. The best are the wooden villas that surround the biggest saltwater pool I’ve seen in my life. There’s also the Hotel with really fancy-shmancy rooms, and the Inn, which has more budget rooms and is usually used for conferences and tour groups.

There are 40 villas that have 149 rooms, even during the high season when the place is pretty booked up they are quiet and give you the feeling that you’re the only one staying there. All have either garden or pool views, and they are surrounded by greenery–a rarity in Cambodian design. The villas are luxurious, with flat screen televisions, a lounge area with couches, a minibar and a big plate of fresh fruit, and the beds are incredibly comfortable. The bathrooms are lovely, with a separate room for the toilet, and big tubs to soak in.

If you’re afraid of large bodies of water, skip the pool and go for the tub.

Much of the place was designed by Cambodia’s most famous architect, Van Molyvann. Apparently, this was his last work for hire was designing the Sokhalay villas and Green restaurant. The style of the villas is heavy on the wood as the Khmer riche seem to prefer, with Cambodian silk accents and a few photographs of local flora on the walls. My only complaint is that they are quite dark if you leave the windows closed, but leaving the windows open means leaving them unlocked, so I ended up leaving the windows closed most of the time and running the air-conditioning. Annoying, but not the worst problem in the world.

Interior of one of the pool view villas at Sokhalay Angkor — bigger than my NYC apartment!

Starting at around $100/night (you’ll find the best deals on Agoda) they offer fantastic value for money.

You should be sure to enjoy a Sokhalay cocktail next to their enormous saltwater pool that’s perfect for relaxing in after a long day at the temples. They’ve got a live Filipino band that plays in the evenings. Most of the guests seemed to disappear for dinner, but they have a nice (if pricey) menu that features both Asian and European fare. The breakfast buffet was also pretty good; I had a few pastries and a noodle soup and can’t really complain.

Evening cocktails by the pool at Sokhalay Angkor Resort

The Sokhalay Angkor is located on the Airport Road a little bit out of town, but not unreasonably far. They can arrange temple tours, cooking classes and anything else your little touristy heart desires. They’ve also got a spa with an indoor pool offering a wide range of massage and salon services at what seemed like reasonable prices for a resort.

I go to Siem Reap quite regularly and stay in all kinds of places in every price range. However, I will say that when I visit the temples I am always very happy to come home to a slightly more upscale place with a pool and better yet, a spa. (For those who haven’t had the pleasure — a visit to the temples of Angkor usually involves waking up early and walking around in the hot sun all day.)

To sum it up, if you’re looking for a lovely place to relax with a giant pool, the villas at Sokhalay Angkor can’t be beat.

Book at the Sokhalay Angkor on Agoda

Sokhalay Angkor Resort & Spa
National Road 6, Siem Reap
T: 063 968 222
W: sokhalayangkor.com

Snaps: Independence Monument at dusk

Posted on February 21, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

Phnom Penh’s Independence Monument

At least once a week at dusk as I make my way home from the gym, I think, “Why didn’t I bring my camera?” Last week I finally did.

Phnom Penh’s Independence Monument was designed by Vann Molyvann, Cambodia’s most famous architect. His style, often called New Khmer architecture, can be seen in this lotus-shaped stupa that was erected in 1958 to commemorate independence from France in 1953.

In recent years, they have taken to illuminating the monument with colored lights and water features at night. Whether it’s tasteful is debatable, but it certainly is striking.

Once, I saw a tourist standing and taking a photo of the monument during the afternoon. Two men on a moto whizzed by and one grabbed the tourist’s camera. It took him several seconds to react, and by the time he did, they were gone.

Review: Angkor Chom Bungalows, Koh Rong

Posted on February 20, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

With perfect white sand beaches, swaying palm trees, and turquoise waters, Koh Rong’s western side is ripe for development. For the time being, though, there are only a few simple bungalows, of which Angkor Chom is easily the best option.

A little slice of heaven on Koh Rong.

The miles-long stretch of white sand is called Long Beach, and it’s home to a few sets of crappy bungalows, notably Sok San “Resort” and Broken Hearts Guesthouse, both of which are run-down and not particularly appealing. Angkor Chom, on the other hand, is simple but clean, with a local, rustic charm. Although it doesn’t have many amenities, it’s a great place to spend a few days relaxing.

We discovered Angkor Chom when we traveled to Koh Rong two years ago to write reviews for a travel guide. We visited Sok San and quickly ascertained that it wasn’t the sort of place we would want to stay. Rumor had it that the village chief, a Mr. Chrouk (chrouk means “pig” in Khmer), was in the process of setting up his own bungalows to take advantage of the large number of dissatisfied visitors who bailed out of Sok San and had nowhere else to go. When we returned in January 2011, the four bungalows of what was then known as Angkor Chum were not completely finished, but they were already filled with customers.

This was Angkor Chom in 2011. Not much has changed.

Two years later, the place has six bungalows and still seems to be pretty solidly booked.We had a peek inside and can report that the accommodations look much the same as they did when they were first built: simple wooden bungalows that contain two beds, two chairs, and a table. Each has its own private bathroom; like 95 percent of the bathrooms on Koh Rong, these contain simple scoop showers and toilets. Each bungalow also has its own private balcony overlooking the water. That’s an understatement–at high tide the sea laps at the bungalow support beams, making the balcony an ideal spot to enjoy Koh Rong’s gorgeous sunsets.

Angkor Chum is part of the small Sok San village, and there’s not much else around. A restaurant, also owned by Mr. Chrouk, serves up typical Khmer dishes, many of which are made with freshly caught seafood brought in each day by the local fishermen from the village.

A view of Long Beach and Angkor Chom bungalows on Koh Rong.

They aren’t kidding at Angkor Chom when they say “seaview”!

Angkor Chum is not the place to go to if you’re looking for a party. (That’s on the other side of Koh Rong, near Monkey Island). But if what you seek is a quiet place to relax, it can’t be beat.

Koh Rong’s Long Beach — Angkor Chom is on the northern end.

Rooms cost $20 during high season, but they will go down to $15 if you stay for a couple of nights. If you can bargain, you can get them for $10 in low season. Make a reservation by phone (I’ve included five phone numbers that may or may not work, but were current as of February, 2013) and they can arrange a boat from Sihanoukville for you.

Angkor Chom bungalows
Long Beach, Koh Rong
T: 016 953 895; 097 795 3895; 078 559 959; 016 551 612; 034 555 5170

Expat Q&A: The lighter side of life

Posted on February 19, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they wish they had known when they first moved to Cambodia that they know now.

This week we talk to David T., an Australian who likes long walks around Samdach Hun Sen Park and slurping down some pho during a candlelit dinner. David grew up in Bundaberg, a town renowned for its progressive nature and cultural offerings, yet nine months of wholesome living in Phnom Penh and he now calls the Charming City home.

Oh, just a saltwater infinity pool looking out over the rice paddies.

MTC: David (a.k.a ‘Dreamy Dave’) what do you know now that you wish you had known when you first moved to Cambodia?

DD: “Hi my name is David T. and I moved to Cambodia to make a difference!” Ok so perhaps that is not wholly true… throw in a touch of desire to abdicate from responsibility and having the time to work on my tan. Nevertheless, let the record show my intentions were admirable, regardless of how far I’ve fallen since my arrival almost a year ago.

In the famous words of Thomas Gray “Where ignorance is bliss, ’tis folly to be wise,” I must concur. Part of the great joy I derive from Cambodia is in the unidentifiable foods I consume and seemingly irrational human behaviour witnessed on a daily basis. That being said, there are a couple of things that I do wish I knew then that I didn’t, and even a few tidbits of wisdom I can impart on you the reader.

Can I purchase everything I need to live a comfortable lifestyle in Phnom Penh? Yes. I can’t speak for those suffering a medical condition, but in terms of the normal consumables required to sustain life for the younger male species, I have never wanted for anything. For full disclosure, being a well-built man (feel free to conjure images of Adonis), at times I have struggled to find fashionable threads for under two dollars off the rack. A few tears later I sucked it up, visited a reasonably priced tailor and moved on with my life.

Hot Tip – They’ve done studies, on Angry Bird jocks. 60% of the time, they work every time. No thanks necessary. [Ed note: Jocks are men’s underwear in Australian]

Can I drive a moto without a helmet? Not if you want me to call you a hero you can’t.

Do I need expat insurance? Yes, if you don’t want me to call you a bloody idiot. Granted there is a high risk for some this may occur anyhow. With the worst that has happened to me whilst in country being a mild case of dengue (discounting a few near death red wine hangovers) I really am not a poster boy for the insurance industry. That being said, Cambodia is not renowned for its medical system or capabilities, so the chances of requiring a medevac do increase significantly even for non-life threatening cases. Save yourself potentially having to service a lifelong debt and consider insurance options before your move to Cambodia.

Is it a fact that expats in Cambodia need to travel in packs? Trick question. You can fall into the comfort trap of moving to Cambodia and staying in a tight knit circle of fellow expats who hail from your home country. This works for some, and I won’t judge those that toe this line, as I myself have been guilty of the same.

Whilst it is a case of each to their own, I encourage all new expats to get involved with the Khmer community. These interactions have produced my most rewarding and memorable experiences to date. Personally though, I hope to spend more time in 2013 getting involved with the French community… consider my olive branch extended.

Also I can’t deny that the more you put yourself out there, the more you will be subjected to painful goodbyes, what can I say, toughen up princess love hurts. Fact.

Do I have to subject myself to bars in order to socialise? Look I am not going to lie, there are some world-class expat socialites (a.k.a. alcoholics) in Cambodia, but if drinking copious amounts of alcohol and losing all inhibitions is not your cup a tea, there are a plethora of other social avenues. For instance I would recommend a natural adrenaline high at Dream Land theme park as you contemplate the Cambodian safety standards, a quaint dinner at one of the thousand top quality restaurants, or perhaps indulge your cultural side by exploring the budding art scene developing in Phnom Penh.

Are there any towns outside of Phnom Penh and Siem Reap worth visiting? Time for your mind to be blown, there are towns where the predominate form of transport is not in a Lexus. Treat yourself (you do deserve it after all) and go see the real Cambodia, or if you are just looking for a weekender I like to put my feet up in Kampot and Battambang.

At the end of the day Cambodia has a lot to offer. If I knew then what I do now, I probably would have moved here a lot earlier.

Phnom Penh’s Beer Garden BBQs

Posted on February 15, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

When expats in Cambodia talk about beer gardens, it’s usually to bemoan the lack of rights for the female beer sellers or to dismiss the places out of hand as dens of iniquity. And while those are certainly valid concerns, there’s one thing the nay-sayers neglect to mention: you’ll find some of the best food in Phnom Penh at its beer gardens.

A pitcher of Angkor Beer at a Cambodian BBQ

Ankgor beer: Tastes better by the pitcher.

Cambodian beer gardens vary widely in their wholesomeness. Some are simply restaurants packed with the after-work crowd and serving dishes – usually of the barbecued meat variety, but featuring stir-fried seafood and vegetables as well – that are best accompanied by pitchers of beer. Others are as bad as you’ve heard, complete with karaoke performances and beer sellers whose job descriptions include more than just pouring pitchers.

In central Phnom Penh, though, the former outweigh the latter and you’re more likely to get a succulent plate of ribs than any sort of female attention. In fact, at the better beer gardens the beer sellers (please don’t call them beer girls) are unionized and wear notices asking to be treated respectfully.

So be prepared to pour your own beer, at least occasionally, and allow yourself to enjoy some of the least expensive, tastiest meals in town.

Be sure to try the pork ribs at 54 Langeach Sros with lime and pepper dipping sauce.

54 Langeach Sros

Definitely one of Phnom Penh’s culinary bright spots, 54 Langeach Sros serves a mean plate of ribs – tangy with a hint of sweetness and slightly spicy. Don’t bother ordering just one plate. The ribs can take a half-hour to arrive, but they’re always worth it. Goat with black ants, “fried fish on the fire lake” (a complicated dish that involves a whole deep-fried fish cooked at the table in a pool of coconut curry), and crab with young green pepper are all excellent and remarkably affordable.

15A St 178
Tel: 017 455 454

Solida Restaurant

There’s a row of Khmer BBQ restaurants along the river on Koh Pich, and locals claim that this one is the best of the bunch. They offer three-liter beer towers of Angkor for just 23,000 riel and throw in an extra pitcher for good luck, so I’m not inclined to disagree. Try the cha g’dao sach moan, or stir-fried spicy chicken with basil, and the barbecued beef, or sach ko ang, which is melt-in-your-mouth delicious. Menu (and signage) is all in Khmer.

Koh Pich, along the riverside, Phnom Penh
Tel: 012 500 190; 097 708 5006

Plates of food at Sovanna BBQ Phnom Penh

Sovanna BBQ: Cheap and cheerful.

Sovanna Restaurant

Sovanna Restaurant has something to offer just about everyone. They have a newer, more upscale restaurant a few doors down, but aficionados claim that the menu, although the same, just isn’t as good as in the original location. Sovanna’s grilled beef and pork, tender, smoky and slightly sweet, are the standouts, but their sngor chrouk trey, fish soup with a lemongrass broth, lime juice and fresh herbs, is not to be missed. Their latest menu has photographs and English translations, making this a good first Khmer BBQ experience for out-of-town visitors.

2C St 21
Tel: 011 840 055

Expat Q&A: Help! I can’t leave Cambodia

Posted on February 11, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they wish they had known when they first moved to Cambodia that they know now.

This week we talk to Kristin O’Connell, an Australian with a corporate background who moved to Cambodia to work in the development sector. Kristin had never ventured out of Brisbane before moving to Phnom Penh three years ago.

Kristin enjoying one of her favorite things about Phnom Penh: the pools. Photo by Lauren Crothers.

MTC: Kristin, what do you know now that you wish you had known when you first moved to Cambodia?

KO’C: “For a long time prior to my move to Cambodia I had been following the country’s news from Australia. Because I had never been, my decision to apply for a 12-month position conjured visions of wooden houses, periods of boredom and limited cuisine options.

Dated blog posts coupled with the complaints of disgruntled travellers led to these and many other misconceptions.

Immediately on arrival almost all my expectations of life in Cambodia were turned on their head. Within a week I had fallen in love with my adopted city and knew that the initial commitment of 1 year was not going to be long enough.

If you are considering a move to Cambodia as an expat in 2013 some of your experiences will be the same same as mine, however in this rapidly changing country many will be different. With so much time having passed, I’ll try to talk about the things that me-of-the-past would like to know if moving to Cambodia today.

Things I wish I’d known about “development”

NGOs are not always what they appear. Development is a large and profitable sector with many seeking to capitalise on the flood of foreign aid. Look carefully into the background and practices of any organisation you plan to work with or support.

Not all Cambodians need or seek charity and generally the people best equipped to support those who do are Cambodian themselves. Broadly speaking, Cambodians are enthusiastic and entrepreneurial. Expect to feel more admiration than pity.

Not every woman in Cambodia has had to work as a prostitute and not all those employed as such necessarily want a change in circumstances. Try not to be condescending and throw out any preconceived ideas before you arrive.

Things I wish I’d known about workplace culture

In starting a new job, expect to obtain a second family. What may feel like invasions of privacy to a foreigner are very normal interactions between Cambodian co-workers. If you are single, expect to be offered marriage prospects from among your colleagues’ relatives more than once.

Respect for the hierarchy is important. Raise concerns and differences of opinion in private wherever possible. Nobody wants to see a workmate without a face.

You will be told it will be done. It will not be done. You will be told it is done already. It is not done already.

Things I wish I’d known about everyday living

Phnom Penh doesn’t have so many wooden stilt houses. Seriously, trying to live like a martyr is tough here. As an expat, the challenge of adjusting to life in Cambodia is not one of enduring daily hardship and dire poverty, although both exist here. The perfect house or apartment is out there although persistence may be required.

The capital and the provinces are like two separate countries. When outside Phnom Penh and tourist spots it is easy to see the source of the stereotypes that appear in the Western media. Try not to romanticise poverty.

There is no need to import bed sheets and electrical appliances from far flung corners of the globe. Just go to Central Market.

Things I wish I’d known about the social scene

With its complex and brutal history, Cambodia attracts a high number of interesting and entertaining expats. In addition to Cambodian friends I have met some of the most important people in my life here. While leaving friends at home behind is difficult there is little chance you will feel isolated once here.

There are many fantastic bars and more than enough to suit every taste. Alcohol is almost insanely cheap. Do not move here if looking to overcome alcoholism.

Cambodia is easy to love and even easier to return to. Living in such a transient city I have experienced a far greater number of goodbyes than one would wish for. The silver lining is what I like to call the ‘boomerang effect’ – most people whose departure is mourned simply can’t stay away for too long.

Cambodia is not a hardship posting. Don’t expect limited access to electricity, Internet or Reese’s Pieces. Those aiming to nobly sacrifice a privileged lifestyle for the good of humanity may need to look a little further.”

The funeral of King Father Norodom Sihanouk

Posted on February 8, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

All eyes in Phnom Penh have been on the Royal Palace this week. Journalist Faine Greenwood has captured some lovely shots from the funeral of King Father Norodom Sihanouk and kindly shared them with Move to Cambodia.

Lazily learning the Khmer language

Posted on February 7, 2013 by Marissa Carruthers

Marissa Carruthers is a freelance journalist who has left behind life in the UK for the sun and smiles of Cambodia. In her weekly column, she will be sharing the ups and downs of settling into life in Phnom Penh as an expat.

I think it’s fair to say that during my first three months in Cambodia I’ve become lazy when it comes to learning the language.

A collection of Khmer language flashcards.

Learning the Khmer language: not exactly child’s play.

I’d left the UK with a vision of being able to at least hold a basic conversation in Khmer after a few months but I’m ashamed to say I can barely ask a tuk tuk driver to turn right. I remember being shocked when I first arrived at the number of expats I met who said they don’t speak Khmer – in fact, now I’m surprised when I meet one who’s fluent – but I quickly learnt that living in Phnom Penh it’s easy to slip into a world where you can get around on English alone, and that’s exactly what I did.

Straight away, I picked up most of the essentials needed to get around but that was where my learning halted. I flirted with a few more words when some of the workers in my apartment block quizzed me on the English for certain things. They’d willingly return the favour by telling me in Khmer what a chopstick or helmet or whatever other object it is they wanted to know is but I’d struggle to get my mouth around the sounds and just couldn’t keep it in my head. The next day I’d bump into them outside and they’d yell over: “Chopstick. Now you in Khmer,” only to be met by a sheepish grin because I’d forgotten the second I was told.

I tried to learn a few more phrases but battled with the pronunciation and despite being greeted with a slightly surprised form of delight from a local when I tried to say something in Khmer, my clumsiness with the words eventually led to an embarrassment to even try.

Then a couple of weeks ago, lost in an area where no-one spoke English outside of my comfort zone where I can drink in an English coffee shop, eat an English breakfast and don’t have to learn the local language, I burst the bubble I’d been living in and realised how ridiculous and rude it was of me not to be able to ask for directions in a country that I’ve been living in for three months.

As soon as I got home, I enrolled in a Khmer class round the corner from where I live and while I’ve only had one lesson so far I’ve pushed myself to get over my embarrassment to try and practice whenever I can – and guess what, so far, in true Cambodian style, everyone has been more than happy to help. It may well take me a while to become anything close to fluent but I’m definitely glad to be trying.

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