Snaps: A day at the races

Posted on April 18, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

Go-kart racing Cambodia style, surrounded by palm trees.

In 2011 my friend Vinh had his birthday party at the go-kart track outside of Phnom Penh. I’d always assumed only backpackers who had been pressured into it by bullying tuk tuk drivers went there, but apparently that was not true. This was one of my first introduction to a group of expats who had been in Cambodia for years and years and yet still managed to take pleasure in the occasional visit to silly tourist attractions.

How was the racetrack different to one you’d find at home? Drinking and driving was not only permitted but encouraged. I was not reassured by the upkeep of the place (or the cars), and decided to forgo racing and sat on the sidelines taking photos instead. I liked the contrast of the American-style racetrack with the tropical background and lush palm trees. In this photo I hope that you can almost feel how balmy it was that day.

Kambol Cart Raceway
National Road #4 (About 7 miles west of the Phnom Penh airport)
T: 012 232 332
Open daily, 9am to 6pm

Expat Q&A: Bursting the bubble

Posted on April 15, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they wish they had known when they first moved to Cambodia (that they know now).

This week we talk to Australian expat Stephen Mussig. Stephen, who is 29, moved to Cambodia six months ago after visiting Cambodia for more than ten years. He works in Phnom Penh for an international NGO in human resource management.

Dashing and mysterious Cambodia expat Stephen Mussig.

MTC: Stephen, based on what you know now that you didn’t know when you moved to Cambodia, what advice would you give to new expats?

SM: “So you’ve arrived in exotic Cambodia, you’re expecting an adventure full of wonder and awe and instead what you find is… a bubble. A shield of sorts that protects us expats from the big, bad, scary Cambodia, and one that holds amazing restaurants, bars, clubs, cinemas and just about anything you could ask for. Such a life appears to be without fault, a perfect mix of living overseas in a crazy and alien culture with all the comforts of home, though you soon begin to feel a linger of fatigue as those stocks of adrenalin wear off and ‘real’ life begins. A tiredness that on self reflection has no real grounds for existence. You begin to feel stress, even though on paper you’re surrounded by the means to release it, be it through partying, trips away to amazing places or simply lounging around at one of the fifty-two thousand cafes in the city.

Then the slippery slope begins, as this inability to truly understand your stress and fatigue becomes in itself another source of concern as you start looking for reasons and justification for your state of exhaustion. This continues until (and this is from my experience) you realize that Cambodia is not your country and you are living in a culture that is not your own.

You realize that even after 6 months, your brain and body never truly relax, whether it’s being alert to traffic, aware of how you’re holding your bag in the tuk tuk or down to the finer points of dealing with that street food that you shouldn’t have eaten the night before. You begin to realize that all the bubble really does is stop you from truly engrossing yourself in the exotic surrounds, preventing you from really connecting to Cambodia’s people and its culture. It is this divide that means that even after so much time you are still in a constant state of culture shock.

My advice to anyone moving to Phnom Penh is to keep in mind the power of the bubble and the way it is impacting how you live and experience Cambodian culture. Find ways to burst it; learn more about the culture, its history and its language. Make friends with Khmer people and actually go to the dozens of weddings that you will be invited to. As you allow this country into your life, you’ll realize that the things that once drained you of energy are just another part of the day. It will be then that you truly begin to live and make the most of the Cambodian experience.”

Snaps: Sunset tourism at Angkor

Posted on April 11, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

Tourists jostle for shots at Phnom Bakheng, Cambodia.

Every day, high season or low, tourists start the trek up Bakheng Hill around 5 p.m. to wait for sunset. It’s the place that all tuk tuk drivers recommend for sunset views of Angkor Wat, and as such, it’s crowded evenings year-round with visitors looking to get the perfect shot.

A few months after I arrived in Cambodia in 2010 I had a friend from California come to visit. We went to Siem Reap together, and despite a fair amount of research, ended up on Bakheng Hill for sunset on our first night. And it’s true, the views of Angkor Wat were spectacular, but the place was absolutely overrun with people crowding to get photos.

Phnom Bakheng is actually a couple of centuries older than Angkor Wat and is one of the most threatened temples at Angkor due to the incredible daily traffic for sunset photos.

I always think it’s funny when people try to take photographs to make it appear as if they were the only person at the massively busy place they are taking  photographs of–they carefully frame the photo to cut out the hordes of tourists and patiently wait for the backpacker to move out of the shot. When they go home, they can remember their visit to Angkor as they wish it had been–peaceful and empty.

On this trip I decided to go the other direction and instead of taking photographs of sunset at Angkor Wat, I took photographs of tourists snapping pics of Angkor Wat.

Expat Q&A: Bring knickers

Posted on April 8, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they wish they had known when they first moved to Cambodia that they know now. This week we talk to Michelle Alexander, who works in media and communications for CARE International.

Originally from Melbourne, Michelle splashed across the Mekong from Vietnam. While living in Vietnam for a year, she found herself visiting Cambodia regularly, drawn to the the sunrise aerobics, fabulous vintage clothing scene, the gentle culture and widespread availability of polka dot everything. She’s lived in Cambodia for nearly two years.

Michelle, cruising the Tonle Sap. Photo by the indomitable Lauren Crothers.

MTC: Michelle, what do you know now that you wish you had known when you first moved to Cambodia?

MA: “Quite simply, I wish I had’ve known how long I would stay in our charming little play Penh; I would’ve brought more knickers.”

Snaps: A visit to a Cham Muslim village

Posted on April 5, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

A Cham muslim family in Kandal province, Cambodia.

Along National Road #6 in Kandal province there are a number of Cham Muslim communities. The Cham people have lived in Cambodia since 1456 and have a friendly relationship with the rest of the population. During the Khmer Rouge period, however, the Chams were targeted for death and most of the country’s mosques were destroyed. Since then, most of the Cham community live a hand-to-mouth existence in Kandal and Kampong Cham.

I met this family in September, 2010. The mother collects recyclables for a living, and their house was little more than a shack with a bamboo frame and walls made of previously-discarded cardboard. It was during Ramadan, and the temperature was over 90°F, but the extreme humidity made it feel much higher.

As per the rules of Ramadan, the adults were fasting from dawn until sunset. This includes drinking water, which must have been torturous. Despite this, the matriarch of this family was in great spirits, playfully teasing me and laughing at my attempts to communicate in Khmer. She complimented my large, Western nose and told me repeatedly how fat and beautiful I was. She offered me cold tea and small cakes made with duck eggs that she had prepared for iftar, the breaking of the Ramadan fast after sunset.

The children were delighted once the camera came out and I ended up with half a dozen shots of them mugging for photographs.

Review: Deco, Phnom Penh

Posted on April 2, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

Note: Deco is now CLOSED

The latest from British chef Caspar von Hofmannsthal (he’s the brain behind Japanese fusion joint Yumi on Street 288 in Phnom Penh), Deco is an upscale BKK1 restaurant that serves modern European cuisine.

Kampot crabcakes with sherry mayonnaise at Phnom Penh’s Deco.

With decor inspired by the 1920s art deco movement, the restaurant is adorned with retro posters featuring cocktails of yore, which also make up the menu at the bar. Featuring nostalgic cocktails such as negronis and whiskey sours, the bar is worthy of a visit even if you don’t plan to dine there. They also offer a selection of wines by the glass or bottle.

Tasty marinated tomato and chorizo salad.

The menu is small but perfectly formed, featuring European dishes with a slight Asian flare. Deco’s house-cured salmon with sour cream on rye starter is perfect, as is the marinated tomato salad with chorizo. The mains are a bit meat-heavy–featuring duck breast, pork chops and beef with chimichurri sauce–which is why I usually stick with a couple of starters (but they always have at least one veg-friendly main and a couple of starters).

Deco’s famous 225 gram sous-vide burger.

Deco is known for its 225 gram sous vide burger and triple-cooked chips ($13). I’ve not had the courage to order it myself, but have had a few stolen bites (and fries) from my dining companion and I can say that it lives up to the hype. The sticky toffee pudding ($5) is outstanding.

With indoor and outdoor seating and good-for-Cambodia service, Deco offers a relaxing option whether its business or romance that calls for a meal.

Deco
46 Street 352
T: 017 577 327
www.decophnompenh.com
Open for lunch Tues-Sat, 12 p.m. til 2 p.m., and for dinner Mon-Sat, 5:30 p.m. til 10 p.m.

Snaps: Cambodian birthday cakes

Posted on March 28, 2013 by Lina Goldberg
A selection of popular birthday cakes in Cambodia.

Birthday cakes, Cambodia style.

I bought my first birthday cake a few months after I arrived in Phnom Penh. I was delighted to see cakes shaped like the animals of the Chinese Zodiac. Later that night, when we cut it open, it turned out that it was 90% frosting and 10% cake, as are most local-style cakes you’ll find in Cambodia.

This selection of particularly outlandish Cambodian birthday cakes sort of sums up the genre–lots of Chinese themes, Angry Birds and Christmas (despite the fact that this photo wasn’t taken anywhere near Christmas). These are all things that Khmers seem to be into.

Expat Q&A: Rice for life

Posted on March 25, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they wish they had known when they first moved to Cambodia that they know now.

This week we talk to the man behind the legend, Simone Bianchi. Whilst this Italian expat needs no introduction to the Phnom Penh community, Simone has lived in Cambodia for two years and works with local communities to cultivate forestry management. When not strutting down Golden Street, he can be found in the remote wilderness, at one with nature.

Simone in Kep

Simone getting his box on in Kep, Cambodia.

MTC: Simone, what do you know now that you wish you had known when you first moved to Cambodia?

SB: “I wish I had know this place was infested with Australians. I wish I had know where Carlton was (it’s in Melbourne, by the way). I wish I had know I would yell “Bonzaaa!!!” during an AFL game.

But luckily, Cambodia it is not all about Aussies. Cambodia is about cheap drinks and easy alcoholism. Phnom Penh is about wonderful world (and world class) restaurants…

“Um, darling, what do you want to eat tonight? Indian? Lebanese? Russian?”

“Oh, we had Indian yesterday. Let’s try the new Italian place.”

I wish I had know if you have triplet children you get rice for life. Rice for life! I am not sure if it is a prize or a curse or a title of an Iggy’s Pop song.

Phnom Penh is about cheap motodop (motorbike taxi) and infamous clubs and famous girlie bars and huge traffic jams and arrogant drivers and water (in forms of rivers, shit canals or rains).

I wish I had know Lexus is a car brand for posh people who enjoy chasing you if you dare to cross their road.

I wish I had know that expat aid workers can sip their gin tonic on the balcony while ordering food from Door2Door magazine and still saving the world one forest at a time.

Phnom Penh is wonderful. Phnom Penh is a bubble. Get away from it and spend as much time as possible in the provinces. That is the real Cambodia. Get lost in the jungle and remember Colonel Kurtz. He is still out there, somewhere.”