Review: Deco, Phnom Penh

Note: Deco is now CLOSED

The latest from British chef Caspar von Hofmannsthal (he’s the brain behind Japanese fusion joint Yumi on Street 288 in Phnom Penh), Deco is an upscale BKK1 restaurant that serves modern European cuisine.

Kampot crabcakes with sherry mayonnaise at Phnom Penh’s Deco.

With decor inspired by the 1920s art deco movement, the restaurant is adorned with retro posters featuring cocktails of yore, which also make up the menu at the bar. Featuring nostalgic cocktails such as negronis and whiskey sours, the bar is worthy of a visit even if you don’t plan to dine there. They also offer a selection of wines by the glass or bottle.

Tasty marinated tomato and chorizo salad.

The menu is small but perfectly formed, featuring European dishes with a slight Asian flare. Deco’s house-cured salmon with sour cream on rye starter is perfect, as is the marinated tomato salad with chorizo. The mains are a bit meat-heavy–featuring duck breast, pork chops and beef with chimichurri sauce–which is why I usually stick with a couple of starters (but they always have at least one veg-friendly main and a couple of starters).

Deco’s famous 225 gram sous-vide burger.

Deco is known for its 225 gram sous vide burger and triple-cooked chips ($13). I’ve not had the courage to order it myself, but have had a few stolen bites (and fries) from my dining companion and I can say that it lives up to the hype. The sticky toffee pudding ($5) is outstanding.

With indoor and outdoor seating and good-for-Cambodia service, Deco offers a relaxing option whether its business or romance that calls for a meal.

46 Street 352
T: 017 577 327
Open for lunch Tues-Sat, 12 p.m. til 2 p.m., and for dinner Mon-Sat, 5:30 p.m. til 10 p.m.

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