7 Reasons why you should move to Cambodia

Khmer440 has a hilarious post up called 7 Reasons Why You Really Shouldn’t Move to Cambodia where writer and almost-expat Gavin Mac quips “Cambodia Parent Network? Good grief. That’s like starting the Chernobyl Gardening Club.”

Who wouldn’t want to move to this?

And while we acknowledge that the greatest humor is rooted in truth, and that the article is laugh-out-loud funny (in the way that people laughed out loud long before they LOLed), we would like to draw your attention to the reasons we’ve long suggested that Cambodia is the perfect place to expatriate to.

Getting a visa is easy. For less than a dollar a day, almost anyone can get a visa to stay in the country. Cambodia has one of the most relaxed visa programs in the world…for now.

The cost of living is low. Cambodia is cheap. Not as cheap as a lot of backpackers hope, but it’s still very inexpensive to live here. Most expats can survive by working part-time, a luxury they would not have back home.

The weather. Okay, maybe most expats can’t agree on this one, but anyone who has lived through a harsh, snowy winter can appreciate Cambodia’s year-round warm temperatures…although most do agree that hot season can be unpleasant.

Cambodia is filled with great opportunities. Whether you’re looking to get work experience in the development sector, teaching experience in the classroom, or material for your novel, Cambodia offers an abundance of opportunities for those willing to pursue them. Foreign experience is highly valued here, and most expats are able to find a job easily. In fact, many are able to find jobs that they wouldn’t be regarded as qualified to do at home.

The locals are friendly. Serial expats know that in many countries settling in can be difficult due to difficult locals. Cambodians can be difficult, of course, but they’re always friendly. If Thailand is known as the “land of smiles,” Cambodia could be called the land of genuine smiles. Even small interactions like bargaining with a tuk tuk driver usually involve smiles and laughter. Male expats also find that their charms are magnified in Cambodia and that they are far more impressive to Khmer women than to the girls back home.

Life is easy. It’s a mystery as to why, but expats in Cambodia just seem to have easier lives than they do in their home countries. Maybe it’s because they’re finally able to afford to have someone else clean their apartments, or just that they’re working fewer hours, but foreigners who’ve settled in Cambodia fall in love with the country. They may whine and complain, but don’t believe them. If they’re here, they’re having a good time.

Cambodia expats are funny. While it’s true that weirdos are drawn to Cambodia, the country is full of some of the most creative, interesting and entertaining people that I know. Sure, they might have gotten bullied in school, but in Cambodia they’ve found a place where they can be themselves. So, Gavin, when you finally decide to move we’ll welcome you with open arms.

 

Kumnooh: New arts guide to Cambodia

There’s a new arts guide out in Cambodia–every week Kumnooh sends out a free newsletter that details the upcoming arts and cinema events in the country.

Karaoke by Oeur Sokuntevy

Karaoke by Oeur Sokuntevy, part of the Art Olympics Project at Meta House.

We caught up with Kumnooh’s creator, who goes by the nom de plume Fabian Hipp. After 40 years in Australia, Fabian first moved to Cambodia in 2008. He’s excited about the burgeoning arts scene here, and hopes you are, too!

MTC: What’s the arts scene like in Phnom Penh?

That’s what Kumnooh is attempting to find out. I’ve been active in the music scene in Phnom Penh for years, but I haven’t been making the effort to soak in the wider arts scene. By making sure that I know what is going on in visual arts, dance, literature, cinema and so forth on a weekly basis, I’m becoming more aware of the richness of activity.

Most weeks one can get out every day to an exhibition opening or performance or workshop, collaborations of all kinds. Many would be surprised at the depth and breadth that is currently available.

What is Kumnooh and where did you get the idea for it?

Kumnooh–Khmer for “picture”–is a weekly email that hits inboxes every Tuesday giving a brief overview of the arts-related events of the week to come, reminders of upcoming events (trying to encourage a practice of buying tickets early), links to media on the broad Cambodian arts scene, and a listing of ongoing exhibitions and workshops. There is an tips for tuk tuk directions, etc., which can be useful for newcomers).

The aim is to use the flexibility and accessibility of email to disperse comprehensive information on a tight turnaround, without the deadlines of print media. I was inspired by LengPleng.com, the prompting of Dana Langlois at JavaArts.org, and a sense that there was more I could be seeing and experiencing if only I got out more often.

Is the arts scene mostly expat driven or are locals participating as well?

Interestingly, while the music scene is quite cohesive, at least in rock’n’roll terms (thanks in no small part to Kumnooh’s long running sister publication LengPleng.com), it remains quite segregated in terms of tastes and venues. Quite the opposite is true in the broader arts, particularly visual arts, cinema and dance where the focus tends to be on local artists. The exception here would be photography.

What the arts misses is that sense of cohesion. Individual venues or groups often have excellent communications materials but they struggle to break outside their existing networks. So this is part of what Kumnooh is attempting to do, drawing on the example of LengPleng.com, which a handful of years ago helped to transform the rock’n’roll scene by creating a conversation between performers, venues and audiences.

Can you tell me a little bit more about the rebirth of Cambodian contemporary arts?

I’d have to get back to you on this. I’m only on the periphery, excitedly looking in, and I still don’t know much. I’m just trying to bring people together.

You can sign up for the weekly Kumnooh mailing list at kumnooh.com.

Snaps: Sunset in Kep

Sunset at the Kep pier.

When I first came to Cambodia, I–like many expats–didn’t know a soul. I met Caitlin through a mutual friend, and a few weeks after I arrived she dragged me to Kep for a quiet  weekend where we did very little other than laze around, eating seafood. I took this photo of Caitlin and the Kep pier at sunset. I wish I could remember what she was pointing at.

Expat Q&A: 19 years in Cambodia

We’ve been doing expat Q&As for a while now, but this week’s is the first in an upcoming series of Q&As with expats that have been living in Cambodia for years and years. The old timers of the expat scene have the best stories to tell, so we’re delighted to feature them here, starting with Ken Cramer.

An Australian soldier about to board an UNTAC helicopter, Phnom Penh, 1993.

An Australian soldier about to board an UNTAC helicopter. Phnom Penh, 1993.

Ken originally visited Cambodia briefly in 1993 in the wake of the UNTAC-sponsored elections. He returned in mid-1994 and has been living in Cambodia for 19 years, now with his wife and two children. He worked as a teacher in Sihanoukville in the mid-1990s, an election observer in the eastern provinces in three national elections, has done occasional work in human rights and has been the publisher at Canby Publications since 1997.

MTC: How has Cambodia changed since you moved here 19 years ago?

KC: “Cambodia is a wholly different country from the one I knew when I first arrived.

When I taxied into Phnom Penh mid-1994, there was no street lighting or traffic control lights, motos and cyclos were ubiquitous, cars were few and tuk tuks unknown. Electricity outages were a regular occurrence lasting hours or days at a time, and monsoon flooding in the city was a given. Nights were dead quiet in the city save the occasional barking dog or report of a gun.

UNTAC headquarters Phnom Penh

An Indonesian UN soldier guarding the entrance to UNTAC Headquarters in Phnom Penh.

The wars were still on, soldiers were everywhere and the Khmer Rouge regime was depressingly fresh in people’s minds. The national routes were all but impassable due to broken pavement and military checkpoints. The sound of gunfire (whether in anger or fun or to stop the rain) was a constant presence in the Phnom Penh night. Brothels operated openly across the city and ganja was sold by the bale at Phsar Chas.

Cambodia had a very military, very male, smuggler’s cove-feel to the whole country. Still, in the post-election glow of the 1993 polls hope was high amongst the Khmers and the few international businessmen here, but actual improvement and real investment would be slow to come.

As an expat back then, city services and supplies were extremely limited. Lucky Market, the only real international market in town, was there on Sihanouk just as now, but much smaller and the selection very narrow. Most shopping was done at the traditional markets. We used to ask friends to bring niceties like antiperspirant, candy bars and disposable razors from Thailand. Some hotels and bars had satellite TV, but for everyone else television was limited to a few local broadcast channels and bootleg VCR tapes.

UNTAC Phnom Penh 2

An Irish police officer directing traffic in Phnom Penh, 1993.

There was no Internet, landlines were a semi-functional few and cell phones only just introduced. I used to get my news listening to BBC on the shortwave. There were no international flights to Siem Reap, and Sihanoukville had but one western bar and two backpacker guesthouses. There were a few foreigner-oriented bars and restaurants in Phnom Penh, but just a few–the Heart of Darkness, the FCC, the Cathouse, No Problem Cafe, Bert’s Books and maybe half a dozen others.

Things remained that way for the next few years.

The factional fighting of July, 1997 marked a minor turning point. Controls were tightened a bit and things felt a little less anarchic, but the business environment remained dismal and the Cambodian ‘Wild West’ carried on. The elections of 1998, formation of an internationally acceptable government and eventual defeat of the Khmer Rouge marked major normalizing change. Local investment and improvements picked up, in-country travel became easier and the Phnom Penh restaurant/bar scene expanded slightly, but the business and the expat scene did not start to take on its current form until the early 2000s.

Across from the main post office, Phnom Penh

Across from the main post office, Phnom Penh.

Post-2003, after the elections, is when real investment began as well as an explosion of restaurants, bars and shopping across Phnom Penh. The old brothel scene began to dry up in earnest, the choice of boutiques and finer restaurants expanded, bars multiplied like bacteria, not only the necessities but some of the niceties became available, more female expats began to arrive and things took on a comparatively more genteel, more varied, slightly more sophisticated atmosphere.

Cambodia for the expat, at least in the major cities, is now a wholly different place than back in the naughty nineties. There are now fashion boutiques and gallery showings, fusion restaurants and international discos, wine shops and single malts, tuk tuks and taxies, supermarkets and malls, credit cards and ATMs, the roads in the cities are smooth and fast and full of SUVs and new motos, everybody’s got a cell phone and WiFi is common–differences as stark as night and day. (Granted, it is not yet as developed as Thailand…and thank goodness for that.)

The old days of the Cambodian Wild West–of brothel villages, RPG-toting soldiers and total lawlessness are dead and gone, regardless of what the international press and parachute journalists may occasionally write to sell newspapers or push some cause.

child at Angkorian temples

Ken’s daughter exploring an Angkorian temple.

For the new expat I have a few recommendations and survival tips:

Don’t imagine you know about Cambodia from what you’ve read in the international media, NGO reports or seen on some magazine show back in the west. Listen and learn from the Cambodians here and from what you see and experience on the ground. Get a bit more in-depth by reading the likes of Chandler and Osborn, the local English language press and maybe even learn some Khmer. Regardless of what you may find lacking by comparison to your home country, have some appreciation for how far this country has come in the past two decades–literally from near zero to all that you see now.

While there are certainly lines to be drawn, do not try to impose your imagined superior ways or remain rigidly fixed to the norms and values of your culture. That is a recipe for frustration and burnout. Bend like the reed or break like an oak in the wind. And lastly, beware to take care of yourself. A product of the Khmer ‘live and let live’ way, this country will do nothing to protect you from your excesses, and may even encourage them. There is no nanny state to step in and save you. You need to self-regulate and to exercise self-control and prudence. The only thing standing between you and destruction is you.”

basik 855: Kickstarting Cambodian ikat textiles

It’s not often you see a Cambodia-based company show up on Kickstarter, so when we did, and it was basik 855, we were delighted. We’ve been admiring basik 855‘s collection of bags, scarves and pillows made from gorgeous Cambodian textiles for a while now, so we took this opportunity to catch up with Leigh Morlock, the company’s creative director.

basik 855’s heathered scarf is one of the rewards you can get via their Kickstarter campaign.

MTC: Can you tell me a little bit about yourself and how you ended up in Cambodia?

LM: Of course! I’m a Jersey girl who studied Theater Arts & Political Science at Drew University. I always dreamed of becoming a theater director, until I found myself working as a creative coordinator at a fashion handbag brand in New York City. I found myself in a new industry using the same creative skills I’d honed in regional theaters in the Northeast.

As I learned more about designing prints and patterns, choosing colors, and identifying key styles for the fashion accessories industry, I found myself more and more at home.

During the very beginning of the recession in 2008, I lost my job, which turned out to be a blessing in disguise. Nine months later, when my mentor called to tell me about a job opening in Cambodia, I had no obligations keeping me from saying yes. In late 2009, I moved to Cambodia to incubate a small textile weaving business, which over the years has evolved from Push Pull Cambodia into basik 855.

One of basik 855’s local weavers in Takeo, Cambodia.

What’s the idea behind basik 855?

Our weavers and artisans inspired our business. When we first visited Takeo, we were struck by the poverty in a region where nearly everyone is trained in an intricate and complex art form.

The initial challenge was to see if we could connect our artisans, who are masters at what they do, with a global market. Luckily, we received an order very early into our exploration that proved we could market and sell Cambodian ikat textiles and products.

basik 855 isn’t a souvenir company. We make fashionable, everyday accessories for women who appreciate the detail and care that goes into handcrafted items. Our approach utilizes the talents that have been passed from generation to generation of weavers while also imparting our patterns with a modern, global aesthetic. Each season we take into account the newest and most exciting design trends and colors; because of this, our product is equally at home on the streets of New York and Los Angeles as they are in Phnom Penh and Sydney.

The basik 855 weavers are paid a living wage for their skilled work on the looms.

How is basik 855 different from Cambodian garment factories?

Our weaving center is based in Takeo, Cambodia, the hub of Cambodian weaving and the homeland of most ikat artisans.

The biggest difference would be that our artisans are paid a living wage and provided an extensive benefits package that includes medical reimbursements, annual ophthalmology exams and glasses, paid time off, and maternity leave.

Compared to traditional garment factories, our weaving center also operates on an intentionally smaller scale. This fosters a more creative and open environment, which helps our design team sketch on their own schedule and enables us to hold bi-weekly status meetings with our employees.

One of the basik 855 weavers creating a spindle.

What is ikat and what is its significance in Cambodia?

Making ikat is not fast, nor is it simple. It is intricate, time-intensive, and an art unto itself. The process involves dyeing individual cotton threads, which are eventually woven on traditional looms into full bolts of fabric.

Ikat has been practiced in Cambodia for over 800 years and is easily recognized today in the sampot hol skirt that women wear to ceremonies and as pidan, tapestries that decorate pagodas.

After the Khmer Rouge, the knowledge of weaving ikat was nearly lost in Cambodia. basik 855 hopes to revive the industry and show the world that our artisans are masters at what they do. Their skilled hands tell a story with each bolt of fabric and infuse our items with both personality and tradition.

Made in Cambodia, but stylish enough for New York.

Why are you doing a Kickstarter campaign and how can we help?

Our company is young. We’re small. We’re also innovative. Crowdfunding is a great way to raise capital; however, it’s also a way to create a sense of community and forge connections with like-minded people. We need both – funding and a basik community – in order to expand our business.

There are three very important ways that you can help. First, visit our project on Kickstarter, all incoming traffic inches us closer to becoming a popular project and ultimately a Staff Pick. Secondly, if any of our gorgeous rewards appeal to you, then please back our project. Third, will you share this campaign with … everyone you know?

You can see more of basik 855’s products on their website, or learn more about their Kickstarter campaign (and help fund it!)

Snaps: North Korean restaurant in Phnom Penh

The floor show at Pyongyang, a North Korean restaurant in Phnom Penh.

It’s no secret that Cambodia is on good terms with North Korea. So I guess it’s no surprise that there are North Korean restaurants in Cambodia. There are several, but the most famous in Phnom Penh is Pyongyang, which is said to be run by the North Korean government as a means of producing hard currency for the regime.

Every night the waitresses do a floor show that involves singing traditional Korean songs, playing instruments and dancing. They also walk around and talk to the South Korean patrons that mostly fill the place, and occasionally try and talk to the Western customers, too. One of the waitresses told me that the weather is always good in North Korea, at least, better than in Cambodia.

Cambodia Jungle Fever: Ratanakiri, Mondulkiri and Koh Kong

Today we have a post from Max Harland and André Ruys, who both have a serious case of Cambodia jungle fever. They run small group tours of the Cambodian countryside and jungle and have shared some of their favorite spots with Move to Cambodia.

Chi Phat ecotourism

Chi Phat in Kong Kong Province is becoming one of Cambodia’s premier ecotourism destination.

So here you are, living in Cambodia and (hopefully) enjoying every minute of it. Angkor Wat is your second home, Phnom Penh your playground, and Sihanoukville your favorite spot for weekend trips. But maybe you’re looking for a change of scenery… How about the jungle? For those with an adventurous spirit, you’ll find our top recommendations below.

Ratanakiri

jungle Ratanakiri

Ratanakiri is filled with trekking options and stunning views.

Getting to Ratanakiri, the northeastern-most province in Cambodia, is quite a journey. Allow 10 to 12 hours by bus (a little less if you get a cab) to get from Phnom Penh to Banlung, the main town in Ratanakiri. A long trip indeed, but definitely worth it. Trekking in Ratanakiri is outstanding, and there are many different options. Here are our suggestions:

  • Don’t miss Yak Lom Lake. This 49-meter deep crater lake is the perfect spot to chill out and get a fresh evening swim after a long hiking day. Stay there until sunset–you’ll get some stunning views when the sun goes down over the lake.
  • Visit Kachon Cemetery, located close to the Lao village. There, you’ll run into dozens of wooden statues representing the deceased person buried below them. A unique experience.
  • Many of the most beautiful waterfalls in Cambodia can be found in the Ratanakiri province. Among others, check out Katien waterfall and the seven steps waterfall.
  • If you have the budget for it, go Gibbons spotting. This recently created activity allows you to see the northern yellow-cheeked gibbons, a rare and endangered species of ape.
  • Watch locals mining gems. In order to find precious stones, locals get 10 to 15 meters deep into the ground, which is very impressive to watch. In some areas, you’ll also get to see locals gold hunting in the river.

Mondulkiri

Go for a dip with the locals in Bou Sra Waterfall in Mondulkiri.

  • Mondulkiri is the least-populated province in Cambodia. It’ll take you 7 to 9 hours to reach Sen Monorom, the Province’s capital, which has a population of around 8000 people. The scenery there is beautiful, featuring jungle, mountains and wildlife.
  • Get to Bou Sra, which probably the biggest waterfall in Cambodia, and definitely the most impressive.
  • Visit a Phnong village. The Phnong people are the local minority in the Mondulkiri Province. Walk through one of their villages and admire the beautiful circular bamboo huts.
  • Spend a day or two volunteering at the Elephant Valley Project. The organization works to protect wild elephants from captivity. Help them out with their daily or monthly projects and you’ll get to watch elephants roaming around their protected sanctuary in the Seima forest. Don’t expect elephant-riding or fun tricks there, as it is all about giving their wilderness back to the elephants.
  • Go mountain biking in Mondulkiri! The green and hilly Mondulkiri landscapes are perfect for that.
  • Get to the Sea Forest close to Sen Monorom and enjoy the exceptional panoramic view over the jungle.

Koh Kong

Tai Tai Waterfall in Koh Kong is especially impressive during rainy season.

Once very hard to reach from the rest of Cambodia, the Koh Kong Province is now easily accessible thanks to the newly-paved road that leads to it. Koh Kong home to the Cardamom mountains, a 300km mountain range that goes up to Thailand. The region has been badly hit by illegal logging and hunting, but things are slowly starting to change as ecotourism and myriad activities for tourists are being developed in the region. Here’s our selection of things to do there:

  • Get to Chi Phat in the Cardamom mountains for a few days. Kayaking, hiking, mountain-biking, bird-watching; there’s no lack of activities in Chi Phat. Until five years ago, this medium-sized village got most of its revenues from poaching. Then in 2007, The Wildlife Alliance started to work with the local community to transform the village into what has become the main ecotourism destination in Cambodia.

    Mountain biking in Chi Phat

    Mountain biking in Chi Phat.

  • From a couple hundred tourists the first year, tourism in Chi Phat has grown to host more than 2000 visitors last year. Everything is well organized and the equipment provided (mountain bikes, hammocks, kayaks) is top quality. However, Chi Phat remains a small village located in the middle of the jungle with basic accommodation (although you can stay at the eco-lodge for a bit more comfort) so expect a great immersive experience.
  • Do the mangrove walk! This 1.5 km wooden walkway among the flooded forest is thoroughly enjoyable. The great panoramic view from the 15-meter high observation tower is a highlight.
  • Go for a swim at Ta Tai Waterfall. The Rainbow Lodge river eco-resort is a perfect getaway for a relaxing weekend away from the city. If you want to add a little luxury to your trip, stay at 4 Rivers Floating Lodge for the night. The lodge is composed of 12 bungalows, which sit on Ta Tai River.

These remote Cambodian regions are definitely worth a visit, and will allow you to discover a different side of the Kingdom of Wonder. What you’ll bring home after a trip to the Cambodian wilderness? Sore legs, a few bruises and scratches… and priceless memories!

Max and André both work for Triple A Cambodia. While Max is still relatively new to Cambodia (he’s been here for less than a year), he’s already explored all of the least visited northern regions of the country. André, on the other hand, has been living and working in Cambodia for 13 years and has been pretty much everywhere in the Kingdom. Their goal with Triple A is to show short-term visitors a different side of the country by taking them to the provinces and letting them meet the locals.

Snaps: Cambodian cyclo driver

Cambodian cyclo driver in Phnom Penh.

This photograph was taken in 2010 of a Cambodian cyclo driver in front of the Phnom Penh post office. The post office itself is one of the most beautiful French colonial buildings in town, but the buildings it faces are decrepit and falling apart. To me, this photograph represents the Phnom Penh that is quickly disappearing.

Most cyclo drivers have given up this old fashioned form of transportation, trading in their trusty cyclos for motos. The ones who are left are mostly older–like this one–and have nothing else they can do. At night, they gather together so they can sleep in their cyclos near one another to keep each other safe.