Five reasons not to travel by night bus in Cambodia

Posted on December 11, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

Night buses are the buses most prone to accidents in Cambodia. Last year in one two-week period there were three night bus crashes, that caused the death and injuries of several tourists. People often want to take night buses in Cambodia because they save time, and the Phnom Penh to Siem Reap and Siem Reap to Sihanoukville routes are particularly popular. They may save time, but avoiding them saves lives. Here are five reasons not to take night buses in Cambodia:

A couple of Cambodian buses parked in the bus yard, waiting to transport passengers.

Imagine how much more foreboding they are after midnight!

1. Cambodians get sleepy at night

Most Cambodians live with their families and sleep in communal living spaces. Most of their families wake up around dawn and begin going about the business of daily life, usually in a normal, noisy way. This means that your bus driver has probably been awake and eating prahok since 6 a.m. and is going to start getting very, very, sleepy come 2 a.m.

2. Roads are dark

Outside the major cities, roads are not lit. In fact, they are pitch black. Many are also still unpaved. Unpaved and cloaked in darkness. There are also no enforced laws that drivers must turn on their headlights and many choose not to in order to “save gas.”

3. Speeding merrily along

Cambodians are not big fans of staying out incredibly late at night. So when they are done doing whatever they are doing, they want to get home as quickly as possible. In order to do that, they drive as fast as their car, moto, or their/your night bus will allow.

4. There is no wrong way

Because of their great hurry to get wherever they are going, Cambodians drive on the wrong side of the road when it’s convenient for them and even more disconcertingly, they will attempt to overtake other vehicles on a two-lane road when there are cars coming directly at them.

5. Everyone is drunk at night

While Cambodia is no longer the wild west it once was, Cambodians and expats alike seem to have no problem swilling down cans, nay, cases of Angkor beer and then hitting the road. Most traffic accidents are caused by inebriated drivers, and a much higher percentage of drivers are drunk at night. Cambodia does not yet have a designated driver program. Even if your bus driver is not drunk, everyone else on the road is.

Combine all of the above and imagine a dark road with your sleepy driver at the wheel while other half-drunk drivers on the road try and overtake by driving straight into your bus at 90 miles an hour, and you’ll understand why I have never, and will never take a night bus in Cambodia.

Expat Q&A: Discovering Phnom Penh’s nerd community

Posted on November 25, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they know now that they wish they had known before they moved to Cambodia. This week we talk with expat Paul Harper.

Paul Harper Cambodia with Google Street View mapper

Paul Harper at Google Developer’s Festival in Phnom Penh with Google Street View backpack camera operator. Google Street View is currently mapping Cambodia including Angkor Wat.

Paul moved to Cambodia in 2007. Born in Australia to English parents, he was raised in Canada and has lived and worked all over the world. He’s been an Information Security Officer with the United Nations, a Queensland Correctional Officer, a New South Wales Police Special Constable and a British Territorial Army Paratrooper. He describes himself as a “free software enthusiast and aging punk rocker” (you should see his air guitar!)

MTC: Paul, what do you know now that you wish you had known before you moved to Cambodia?

Oddly, not much. That may sound cocky, but it comes partly from my previous job and travel. I first came to Cambodia in 2007 to spend three months helping the start up of the UNAKRT (United Nations Assistance to the Khmer Rouge Trials). Before that I worked as a UN Security Officer in The Hague, Bosnia-Herzegovina and Sudan. I had also traveled independently to Thailand in 1986 for four months so had a fair idea of Asian travel.

When I travel to another country (even on holiday) which the UN dramatically calls “going on mission,” I do an area study of the country which includes finding books in the library on the history and politics, looking at the US, UK, Australian and Canadian travel security advisories, the major guidebooks like Fodor’s, Rough Guide or Lonely Planet, expatriate forums for that country and checking Move to Cambodia book did not exist at that time but it would have certainly been something I would have bought at the time.

The other advantage I had was that I already had colleagues who were working in Cambodia who could answer my questions. So even before I had arrived I had a fair idea of how much a tuk tuk to the city would cost and to keep an eye on my bags. I also knew not to do dumb things like an Australian tourist who left their iPad on the seat of the tuk tuk at the red light because it wasn’t going to be there when the light turned green.

Even though I have been here since 2007, I continue to learn new things about Cambodia. I keep an eye  on the Leng Pleng website to see what bands are playing. The Kunnooh site is good for art events. The Lady Penh site has all kinds of activities from movies to chess to yoga. People who say there is nothing to do in Phnom Penh except drinking are not trying too hard.

One of my big surprises here was discovering Phnom Penh’s geek or nerd community. There are regular Barcamps in Cambodia which are some of the largest in the world. There is an active Google Developer Group in Phnom Penh. As I write this the second Startup Weekend is happening in Phnom Penh. For foreigners a good way to join the community would be to get in contact with the people at coLAB during the monthly meeting on the first Tuesday of each month.

Actually, there is one thing I wish I had known before I came here. I wish I knew I was going to marry a beautiful Cambodian lady named Somaly Mean within three months of arriving. If I had known I would have studied up on the meaning of customs during the Cambodian wedding ceremony. I would also have spent a year doing yoga to prepare my old knees for the ceremony!

The views expressed are Paul’s,  and do not reflect the views of any other organization or employer.

Expat Q&A: Cambodia, how beautiful you are

Posted on November 11, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they know now that they wish they had known when they first moved to Cambodia. This week we talk with American expat Sheila Mischke.

Sheila, enjoying a relaxing moment in a Cambodian hammock.

Sheila, the mother of last week’s interviewee Anna Mischke, has been in Cambodia for two years. Sheila has been the General Manager of Beyond Interior in Phnom Penh, and although she’s planning on heading back to the US soon, she hopes to find a way to live in both worlds in the near future.

MTC: Sheila, what do you know now that you wish you had known before you moved to Cambodia?

SM: “I wish I had known how very difficult it would be to leave. As I think about wrapping up a two year stay here I find that several times a day I see and experience things that are so beautiful and tender, or at least funny, that I wonder if I will ever enjoy myself to this degree elsewhere.

Life is so wonderfully raw and real here. The climate, poverty and culture here causes so much of private life to be lived along the road that the traveler gets a peek into otherwise hidden scenes. Babies being bounced and bathed, business men pondering their invoices, teens examining their spots, meals being cooked, dishes being washed. It’s all so out there.

The wealth and climate of my homeland dictate that most of life take place behind closed doors. I already feel lonely thinking about it. Ahhh Cambodia…how beautiful you are.”

Snaps: “The best iced coffee in Phnom Penh”

Posted on November 7, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

Mr. Bunnareth and what might possibly be the best iced coffee in Phnom Penh.

This photograph was taken by recent arrival and photographer Lucas Veuve. Here’s the story behind the photo:

“Mr. Bunnareth has been making coffee in the Russian Market for more than 30 years. He’s truly an amazing character. The first time I visited his stall I stayed for more than an hour, chatting and drinking the iced coffee that he is famous for. He gives me an extra shot of coffee, ice and condensed milk which provides me with enough caffeine for the day. For $1, it’s worth every cent.

You can identify his stall amongst the others as he has the most flags, postcards and newspaper cut-outs hanging from the ceiling. Otherwise, just look for the board that says ‘The best iced coffee in Phnom Penh.’ Be aware though, the other vendors also make this claim!”

Lucas Veuve is a freelance travel and humanitarian photographer based in Phnom Penh. For more information on his work, visit his website.

Expat Q&A: Leave like you’re really leaving

Posted on November 4, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they know now that they wish they had known when they first moved to Cambodia. This week we talk with 24-year-old American expat Anna Mischke.

The infamous Anna Mischke.

Anna expatriated to Phnom Penh from Washington just about a year ago. Originally on an internship, Anna now works at a Cambodian fashion magazine, as an English-language writer and editor.

MTC: Anna, what do you know now that you wish you had known before you moved to Cambodia?

AM: “I moved to Cambodia, having followed my mother after she relocated to Phnom Penh for business nine months earlier. When I decided to make Cambodia home, I prepared myself for a whole new life and made a lot of choices that ended up giving me a massive headache once I arrived and figured out what life would be like after settling in. I’ve been here just over a year, and while I do still love it with all its quirks, splendors, interesting bits, and weirdness–there are definitely moments where I wonder “how quickly can I get a one way ticket back to the States?”

Then I’ll take a moment to gauge my surroundings, look at where I am, the people milling about, and being in a different city, Phnom Penh, which is so different than chilly Washington, and remember exactly why I’m still here.

I wish I had known about Move to Cambodia or had a wider network before I came into the country blindly, not having any idea what I was heading into. Hopefully these little tips can be for you what I wish I had known.

Leave like you’re really leaving: When I left Washington State, I left behind a lot of things with my (now) ex-boyfriend that should have been properly packed up, stored in a safe place, or tossed out. I had all the intentions of coming back within a year–with at least one visit at the six month mark–but I never made that visit, cancelled my return ticket, and realized that some precious items will have vanished during my stay abroad. A piece of advice, when you leave, leave as if you’re leaving for good. Don’t assume you’ll be back anytime soon; even if you do end up going home a few months later, at least you have the safety net of being prepared to not go back if with peace of mind.

Bring the bat: On a related note, don’t leave behind things that make you happy on a daily basis. For example, my favorite piece of home decór was a taxidermy Pipistrelle bat in a Lucite cube. I left that in storage, and I miss looking at him on my shelf each day. Bring a token from home that brings you enjoyment–the little things really do count.

Don’t close your bank account: I made the mistake of closing my Chase bank account when I moved here, thinking I either didn’t want to pay the $10 monthly fee if I had less than $1,500 in my account at all times (word to the wise: you should try and have that much in your account at all times…you never know when you’ll need it) and that it just wasn’t necessary to have a stateside account. WRONG. It was one of the biggest mistakes I’ve made in the relocation process, considering Cambodian banks use SWIFT codes rather than routing numbers so you’re unable to use PayPal to transfer funds between US and Cambodian accounts easily (unless you do an expensive wire transfer). Also, Cambodian banks can be a huge pain for a host of reasons: from basic procedural understanding to customer service, such as knowing the just because someone has said “yes”doesn’t mean it’s actually possible (like using a Cambodian debit card to pay a US credit card), to the services themselves, like the lack of online banking for certain banks. Even though you’ll probably need to get a local bank account, it’s always a plus to have an account back home. Try a credit union or local bank that won’t charge you monthly fees.

Invest in everyday items: Before you come, think about what you use most throughout the month and try and figure out if it’s possible to find here for a decent price. For me, the difficult ones have been tampons, sports bras, socks, simple yet stylish sandals, and yearly planners. Stock up on those things before you get out here so you don’t have to worry about shipping costs or having friends and family camel them back and forth for you.

Accept the ache and pleasure of nostalgia: I’m a hyper-emotional person and associate almost every smell, song, or flavor with something, someone, or a time in the past or places I’ve lived before. I’m still getting used to the fact that although I frequently get a dull ache in my chest and a lump in my throat when thinking of the “old days,” things will never go back to what they were. My life will not be the same as it was before, even if I had gone home after only a month in Cambodia. Time abroad will change you, as it has me, and finding myself in moments that I will never forget are the ones I know will be difficult to experience anywhere else. Cambodia is unique in so many ways, many that I am discovering a year later and I know that I will continue to learn and never know everything. Instead, when a feeling of nostalgia or sadness hits, accept it, embrace it, and move with it.”

You can read more of Anna’s musings about life in Cambodia on her blog, mischkebusiness.com.

Review: La Cita Urban Mex, Phnom Penh (riverside)

Posted on November 1, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

Unfortunately La Cita is now CLOSED!

There’s a heated debate in townabout which is the best Mexican restaurant in Phnom Penh. These days, there are new ones being added on what feels like a daily basis, and I’ve given up on attempting to try them all. So while I’m not longer willing to declare what Phnom Penh’s best Mexican restaurant is, I’m going to review the opening of a new branch of one of my favorites, La Cita.

A La Cita medium burrito that is the size of a small child.

If this is a medium-sized burrito at La Cita, imagine the large.

La Cita Urban Mex has long been my favorite South American cum Mexican restaurant in town. The original is located on Street 282, and you can see it from the windows of The Place gym, which is cruel punishment during a workout considering how many delicious calories are housed inside. The new La Cita is directly on Phnom Penh’s riverside, between Streets 110 and 108 near the Night Market. The restaurant an excellent new addition to the neighborhood and is a slick offering compared to the original in BKK1.

La Cita offers one of the most comprehensive Mexican menus in town. The place is run by chef Richard Rojas, who offers select dishes from his native Chile, such as chacarero, a tasty sandwich made with thinly sliced grilled meats and a variety of other toppings. But it’s his Mexican food that gets my business. Rojas spent three years working in Mexico, and while his dishes aren’t 100% traditional, they are entirely delicious.

The standouts are his slow-cooked meats. From the steak barbacoas to mouth-watering chicken to the cooked-for-8-hours pork carnitas, it’s clear that Rojas doesn’t just have a passion for Latin American food, but is a skilled chef to boot.

The interior of La Cita Urban Mex on Phnom Penh's riverside

The slick new interior of the riverside branch of La Cita Urban Mex.

The menu can be difficult to understand and has a lot of options (although still much simpler than in years past), but Rojas is usually at the riverside outlet and can guide you through ordering. One misstep, though, can result in burritos the size of newborn babies (stick to the small size if you’ve got a normal appetite). I’ve given up on ordering anything but the soft tacos or the massive, satisfying burritos. They come with beans, pico de gallo, rice and either sour cream or cheese, but I’d recommend paying the small fee extra and going for rice and cheese. You only live once, after all. Each also comes with an additional salsa, all of which are massively good and of varying degrees of spiciness.

The only downside of both of La Cita’s branches is that Rojas struggles with finding good waitstaff. That said, he’s usually on hand at the riverside restaurant preparing the food himself and overseeing the ordering and one can assume that his staff should be up to speed eventually.

La Cita Urban Mex
137 Sisowath Quay (between 110 and 108), Phnom Penh
T: 092 626 123
ox2net.com

Snaps: Shopping at Psar Thmei

Posted on October 24, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

The entrance to Phnom Penh’s Psar Thmei.

This photograph was taken by new expat and photographer Lucas Veuve. Here’s the story behind the photo:

“Last weekend, I went to Central Market (Psar Thmei) to explore the endless stalls, try my broken Khmer and to get lost. I wasn’t disappointed. The market is huge. It is possible to find everything inside from watches, electronics, copies of travel guides, antiques, delicious street food and more. After some bargaining, I finally found my way out, happy to have discovered such an interesting place. You instantly feel more integrated with local life and definitely well worth a visit.”

Lucas Veuve is a freelance travel and humanitarian photographer based in Phnom Penh. For more information on his work, visit his website.

Expat Q&A: Phnom Penh is not the edge of the earth

Posted on October 21, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they know now that they wish they had known when they first moved to Cambodia. This week we talk with American expat Allie Moore.

Recent expat arrival Allie Moore.

28-year-old Allie Moore just moved to Cambodia in August, 2013. She left a lucrative career and a picturesque studio apartment in Washington, D.C. behind and came with no job and no apartment. She’s now found an apartment with the help of friends and is working in writing and publishing in Phnom Penh.

MTC: Allie, what do you know now that you wish you had known before you moved to Cambodia?

AM: “I wish I had known how easy it is to get dehydrated here. The heat and humidity and the amount of sweat that soaked me throughout the day took a lot of adjustment. Thankfully, some new friends clued me into a powder called “Royal-D”, which, for about 60 cents a pack, you can mix into water for an instant replenishment of electrolytes that are lost from constantly sweating. They also have Gatorade and coconuts here. They sell the latter on the street and pop in a straw so you can have coconut water anytime you want. Great for hydration/re-hydration.

I would have packed more clothes. I left behind or sold a lot of my dressy stuff and favorite heels/wedges because I thought I’d be in shorts and flip flops 24/7, but some folks really dress up when they go out to dinners or bars. Luckily, it’s easy to find cheap clothes on a Cambodian budget.

I would have learned more of the language before I moved here, although actually being here has helped me with pronunciation. I’ve been here for a month and still only know a few necessary phrases, like directions when talking to a tuk-tuk or moto driver, but I am quickly learning how beneficial it would be to know more.

I moved here from Washington, D.C., where I was car-less and walked everywhere. Phnom Penh is not a walking city, which saddens me as it is one of my favorite methods of transit. The sidewalks here are covered with parked cars and motos trying to weave through traffic. It’s not always safe to walk, and when I try, I am constantly asked by tuk-tuk and moto drivers if I want a ride. It’s especially not safe to walk at night. So to burn off energy acquired from sitting at a desk all day, I had to join a gym for the first time in 5 years. I haven’t tried to go running yet because it would provide the same difficulties as walking. I see some people running on the riverfront and in parks, but getting there is a hike for me from down in the Russian Market neighborhood.

Despite these minor annoyances, I have really enjoyed living here. I’ve met some fantastic people who have helped make my transition as seamless as possible. Being flexible and open to changes and adjustments is imperative, but Phnom Penh is not on the edge of the Earth. There are plenty of places to go–coffee shops, bars, movie theaters, stores–that can help make Cambodia feel more like home, air conditioning included!”

You can read more of Allie’s work and about her experiences in Cambodia on her blog.