As the city grows and grows it seems that every day there are new restaurants in Battambang opening up. Meanwhile some of the older establishments have changed hands and gotten a makeover. Here’s a review of some of the newer offerings around town:
Vintage Wine Bar in Battambang
Anyone living in Kampot right now will know that rainy season has well and truly arrived! Unfortunately when you think of a visit to Kampot it’s generally all about the great outdoors — a stroll along the riverside, a trip up Bokor Mountain or a relaxing sunset cruise — so, when it’s raining, what else is there to do to occupy your time? Here are a few things to do in Kampot when it’s wet, wet wet:
Don’t worry about the rain, there’s still enough to keep you busy in Kampot.
As a one-stop rainy-day shop, there’s always something different happening at the Magic Sponge with daily happy hour specials thrown in — $0.50 draft beer every day from 12 p.m. to 8 p.m. and double shots with a mixer for the price of a single (from almost anything behind the bar) every day from 5 p.m to 8 p.m.
Books and games: There is a selection of books in the bar to either buy or swap if you fancy a quiet afternoon of rainy day reading. If you’re up for more of a challenge, there’s also a good selection of board games such as trivial pursuit and scrabble to choose from. Continue reading
Popular Monkey Republic has opened a new backpackers hostel, bringing their trademark brand of fun, food, and cheap beds to Kampot. Monkey Republic has become an institution in the Cambodia backpacking world, starting with their original location in Sihanoukville. In recent years some of the partners have branched out and opened their own Monkey Republics in other cities, and each offers everything that a budget traveler could ask for — they clearly know what they are doing!
The best dorm in Cambodia? You be the judge.
The Kampot Monkey Republic is no different, offering beds in pristine air-conditioned dorms for just $5, as well as inexpensive private rooms. The dorms are some of the nicest we’ve seen in Cambodia. Each has a private locker, on which you can use your own lock for added security. Dorm beds each have a curtain, so creeps can’t watch you sleep, and there’s an international electric outlet inside so you can charge your electronics overnight. When we visited, the dorm was mercifully cool — they aren’t being stingy with the air-conditioning. The shared bathroom has private shower and toilet rooms. Continue reading
It can be difficult to navigate the rental market in Phnom Penh alone, especially for a new expat who doesn’t know what to expect. Today Leah from Elevated Realty* explains prices of rental properties in Phnom Penh, and what sort of properties and features you can expect at different price points.
A room with a view, or a home with a pool. Understand what’s possible in the Phnom Penh rental market.
Phnom Penh real estate offers all types of properties, from traditional Khmer-style townhouses to luxury apartments with rooftop swimming pools. Renters can make their dollar stretch a long way, if they know what they are looking for and have realistic expectations. The first step to finding the perfect home is having a clear understanding of what is available to you.
There are essentially four property types in the city, and though every home varies slightly you can put most places into one of these four categories: Khmer-style shophouse, renovated shophouse, Western apartment, or full-service apartment. Each property has features that clearly define its property type, and each type comes with a relatively standard price range.
A Khmer-style shophouse is easy to identify and is one of the most common property types in Phnom Penh, often built up into three or four-story low-rise row homes.
A typical long and narrow Khmer-style shophouse.
This type of apartment can be found in nearly every Phnom Penh neighborhood. A Khmer-style shophouse is generally four meters wide by 16 meters long. The entrance is typically in the front or back of the apartment and the walls on either side have no windows.
A typical Khmer-style shophouse bedroom often has no external windows.
Bedrooms don’t commonly have windows, and if they do, they will face the interior of the home, not outside. Bedrooms usually will not have closets and instead have movable dressers or rattan shelving.
A typical Khmer-style townhouse kitchen. Note the lack of counter space!
The kitchen in a Khmer-style shophouse is normally very basic: a sink, two or one burner gas cooktop, sink, and often lacking cabinet storage. Bathrooms are also basic with no separate shower, floor to ceiling tiles, and no windows. Other home furnishings will also be sparse and be either rattan or wood. In terms of furnishings, you can expect chairs or a loveseat, coffee table, and a table for eating.
Khmer-style townhouse bathrooms are usually “wet rooms” without a separate shower.
Though this style of home has fewer Western finishes, it is still very popular with foreign renters. A house like this is very local, and can have more charm than a new apartment building. Usually the owners are more willing to make improvements for you and will also permit you to make changes and modifications to the home. The right person has the ability to makes this style of house completely their own. It also lends to getting to know your landlord and neighbors (often local) gaining a better sense of community.
Summary
Pros: Easy to find; Affordable; Charming and unique; Local community
Cons: Older construction; Few windows; No separate shower; Basic kitchen; Rattan furnishing; Walk up
Price Range
City Center (BKK1, Royal Palace, Riverside)
$300 to $500
Outside Center (BKK3, Russian Market, Olympic Stadium, Toul Kork)
$250 to $400
A renovated shophouse can be more difficult to find but allows Phnom Penh renters the best of both worlds. They can be hard to spot from the outside because they have the same construction as the Khmer-style shophouse, but owners have renovated the apartment interior to have Western finishes, although they still have the same four meters wide by 16 meters long layout.
The best of both worlds…a renovated Cambodian shophouse.
These apartments will be renovated to look newer, some with new floors, added windows, and updated lighting fixtures. Other home furnishings will be newer and Western-style with plush couches, and a glass coffee table.
The rare renovated shophouse has external windows in the bedroom.
Bedrooms may have built-in closets, and built-in shelving and of course, air-conditioning.
Renovated shophouses bring Western kitchens to Khmer-style apartments.
The kitchen in a renovated shophouse will usually have cabinets for storage, and newer appliances. Though more modern and western than a Khmer-style shophouse, furnishings and construction may be cheap and require a bit of maintenance.
A typical renovated shophouse bathroom.
This style of home is perfect for foreigners who want to live comfortably, but still on a budget. It offers you a little more basic comfort. but still has the charm and community of living in a Khmer-style shophouse. Owners are often friendly and eager to please and prices are affordable.
Summary
Pros: New updates to construction; Updated kitchen; Western furnishing; Affordable; Charming and unique; Local community
Cons: Few windows; No separate shower; Walk up; Harder to find
Price Range
City Center (BKK1, Royal Palace, Riverside)
$600 to $1000
Outside Center (BKK3, Russian Market, Olympic Stadium, Toul Kork)
$400 to $600
A Western apartment isn’t too specific and the styles of these new-build Phnom Penh apartments can vary quite a bit. From small low-rise walk- up apartments, to tall 12-story multi-unit towers.
Western-style apartments in Phnom Penh have significantly more amenities.
Western apartments are almost always new construction, will have diverse layouts, windows in every room and plenty of natural light.
Kitchens are Western-style, with standard appliances and cabinet space.
In this type of apartment, kitchens should be Western-style with cabinet space, counter space, and a built-in cooktop.
Western-style apartment bathroom in Phnom Penh. Yes, that is a bathtub.
Bathrooms in Western apartments will be newer, have a window, and have only necessary tile, eschewing the fully-tiled bathroom aesthetic popular in Khmer shophouses. Depending on how high end the apartment, bathrooms may or may not have a separate shower or bathtub. Living space will be larger and have modern lighting fixtures and plush western furniture. Generally services such as cleaning, internet, cable, and water are included in the rental rate. Some will have elevators and rooftop terraces.
Western-style apartment bedroom in Phnom Penh.
In this type of property the standard is drastically improved, construction is usually better, as is the security of the building. Typically most buildings will have parking for bicycles and motos. This can be nice if you prefer to have some of the comforts of home in your Phnom Penh apartment. These buildings often have many foreign tenants so this makes it easy to make friends and socialize. Owners are often more experienced and follow through on maintenance requests and concerns more readily.
Summary
Pros: New construction; Natural light; Updated bathroom; Western-style kitchen; Western furnishings; Easy to find; Affordable; More secure; Included services
Cons: Less unique style; can be walk-up or elevator
Price Range
City Center (BKK1, Royal Palace, Riverside)
$600 to $1200
Outside Center (BKK3, Russian Market, Olympic Stadium, Toul Kork)
$500 to $700
Full-service apartments are the best you can come by in the city, and include almost everything you could desire in a Phnom Penh apartment. Western style layouts, natural light, beautiful views, modern equipped kitchen with an oven, modern bathrooms, and walk-in closets.
You get what you pay for when it comes to luxury in Phnom Penh.
In this range, services such as cleaning, laundry, Internet, cable, water, and often concierge service are included. Buildings will have one or multiple elevators, 24-hour security, car, bike, and moto parking, a gym, and a swimming pool. You can expect to have streamlined and organized rent collection and timeliness in maintenance requests.
The bathrooms in full-service apartments are just as nice as the rest of the place.
These buildings are easy to find in the city, but prices are often high and vacancy rates low. However, they can be found in nearly every neighborhood in Phnom Penh.
Phnom Penh luxury apartments certainly are luxurious.
These buildings seem to be larger and often have families living in them, because of their size it is often more difficult to get to know your neighbors or your landlord on a personal level. This is the perfect place for a young professional who loves to entertain or family who likes to have the extra space and comfort.
And yes, there’s a gym.
Summary
Pros: New construction; Natural light; Great views; Western layouts; Modern bathroom; Western-style kitchen; Western furnishing; Elevator; Included services; Swimming pool and gym; 24-hour security
Cons: More expensive; Can be difficult to get to know neighbors
Price Range
City Center (BKK1, Royal Palace, Riverside)
$1000 to $1500
Outside Center (BKK3, Russian Market, Olympic Stadium, Toul Kork)
$800 to $1000
For all of the properties shown, the price ranges are based on one-bedroom properties, for two bedrooms you can expect an increase of anywhere from $150 to $300 per bedroom. As in any city there are exceptions to these property types both in included services and prices. As Phnom Penh grows, prices continue to rise, however there are still great deals to be found. Some owners haven’t raised their rental rates in years. Others raise them with each tenant. It is important in any home that you feel comfortable with who you renting from and are able to effectively communicate with them. Also, do your own research and viewings to understand what you like and want.
Many forums and expats who have been in the city for an extended period of time may say that you can get a Western-style apartment for $200. While this is still possible, these days, deals like this are far and few between as the city on the whole is changing. Properties are changing—the most beautiful building in BKK1 five years ago might now be the oldest building in BKK1—and unable to compete with the premium apartments being built in Russian Market, but still be charging top dollar. Be sure to visit several places when trying to determine what you can get for your money, and understand that being open to different neighborhoods and property types increases your chance of finding a great deal!
*Elevated Realty is no longer in business.
Want to experience how the other half live? Try a luxury weekend away at Villa Romonea in Kep.
Villa Romonea, housed in a restored 60s modernist building, is a Kep gem.
In a beautifully refurbished 1960s modernist building, Villa Romonea is located a short walk from the Crab Market (if you’re willing to leave the compound to join the hoi polloi in the crab shacks, that is). The building is not a typical hotel; it’s a six-bedroom family home, which can be rented out by the room, or more appealingly, guests can rent out the entire house, which sleeps 12. Continue reading
A little way out of Sihanoukville, Otres beach is a welcoming haven away from the craziness of the kingdom. With white sand, clear seas and a horizon dotted with tropical islands, it is the perfect place to unwind, even when stormy days are forecast. Despite the occasional grey clouds, for a lot of us here on Otres, rainy season is our favorite time of year, and the quieter days give us the opportunity to kick back, relax and enjoy our beachside paradise.
Don’t miss the rainy season sunsets on Otres Beach.
These days, Otres actually consists of three different communities; the beach-side Otres 1 and Otres 2, linked by a kilometer long stretch of empty sand, and Otres Village, a peaceful riverside neighborhood set back into the jungle. In high season, the community is buzzing, with tourists, travelers, expats and locals flocking to the beach, seeking sun, sea and sand with a bit of hedonistic pleasure thrown in for good measure. From luxury resorts to backpacker bungalows and laid-back acoustic sessions to all night jungle raves, Otres is the perfect place to find what you’re looking for. In fact, so much so that many travelers find themselves marooned here for months and even years on end, myself included. Continue reading
I have been meaning to go to the Chinese restaurant on Sisowath Quay for years. Apparently I missed the boat, because it’s closed, but a new boat pulled up almost immediately in the form of a new Chinese restaurant in the same location. Even better, it’s serving Sichuan food.
Imposing and grand, just like a Chinese restaurant should be.
The building itself is worth mentioning — on the corner of Sisowath and 246, the restaurant is very grand, featuring tall picture windows covered with silk draperies, and outside, a giant cement arch that you must pass through to enter, with a sign in Chinese and Khmer, no English. The place is impressive and unsettling, much like China itself.
I noticed that the place had changed ownership when I saw the female staff outside doing a syncopated dance routine. If it was designed to catch my attention, it worked, and my eyes were then drawn to the poster-sized photos in the restaurant of fiery Sichuan dishes. They had me at facing-heaven chilies and I vowed to return for a meal in the next 48 hours. Continue reading
Despite years of rumors about a new super-duper direct ferry from Kampot to Phu Quoc Island, there is frustratingly still only one way to get to Phu Quoc from Cambodia — starting in Kampot, travel to the Vietnamese border, cross the border, and then catch a ferry from the border town of Ha Tien. In this post, I’ll go over how to get to Phu Quoc from Cambodia via Kampot.
It’s possible to get to Phu Quoc from Cambodia via Kampot.
It’s worth noting that there are flights from Phnom Penh and Siem Reap that connect in Vietnam, but this can take just as long as going overland. You can also get a ferry from the town of Rach Gia, but as it is a couple of hours drive from Ha Tien and takes an extra hour on the ferry, this post focuses on the Ha Tien route.
You generally have two options when making this journey — do the trip yourself or book a through ticket with a tour agent. Continue reading