How to get to and from Sihanoukville Airport

Showing up at a strange airport in a strange country is, for most people, a stressful experience. Luckily, Sihanoukville Airport is so small that there’s almost nothing to worry about. There are limited options for getting from Sihanoukville Airport into town, but it’s best to have an idea in advance of what your plan is.

Sihanoukville Airport Cambodia

The Sihanoukville Airport is small but perfectly formed.

The Sihanoukville Airport is located approximately 12 miles (20km) north of Sihanoukville, on Route 4. Only four planes per week that land there, all of them Cambodia Angkor Air’s Siem Reap to Sihanoukville flights. Continue reading

Visiting Koh Dach, Cambodia’s ‘Silk Island’

Phnom Penh might not have the star draw of Angkor Wat to attract tourists, and the modest attractions of the Royal Palace, National Museum, and Khmer Rouge sites see only a fraction of the visitors that flood to Siem Reap. But a short trip to Koh Dach by bicycle, tuk-tuk or public bus offers a fantastic experience to witness rural Cambodia and avoid the city’s traffic and noise.

Silk weaver Koh Dach

A young weaver at her family loom on Koh Dach.

Silk Island—Koh Dach in Khmer—gained its name from the island’s primary occupation, silk weaving. A decade ago nearly every household on this island in the middle of the Mekong had their own loom, but as the cost of silk production has increased, more and more of the island’s young weavers have left to look for work in nearby garment factories. Traditional weaving still takes place today, albeit on a more modest scale, and the sound of looms can still be heard as one travels along the narrow lanes that criss-cross the palm tree-dotted landscape. Continue reading

Why Otres Village is Sihanoukville’s new foodie hotspot

Once a peaceful river retreat between rice paddies, Sihanoukville’s Otres Village has quickly evolved into one of Cambodia’s coolest and most vibrant destinations. A short walk from Otres Beach, the village is home to locals, expats and tourists alike, offering a wide array of quirky and comfortable accommodation options and a myriad of cafes, restaurants, bars, and teahouses featuring dishes from all across the world. From Japanese to Czech, Lebanese to Indian, and American diner to traditional British fish and chips, Otres Village has become a true foodie’s paradise. Here’s our rundown of the best of the best!

Otres Sihanoukville beach

Where to eat on Otres.

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How to get from the airport into Phnom Penh

If you’re looking for a great introduction to Cambodia, there’s no better way to do it than to negotiate your transfer to Phnom Penh from Phnom Penh International Airport (nee Pochentong). Be aware that the taxi situation can border on scammy, so it’s good to know what to expect before you go.

As in many cities, you’ll probably have a group of men shouting at you and trying to rope you into various transport options the minute you leave the arrivals hall. Take a deep breath and ignore them. You have three transportation options for Phnom Penh Airport transfers: taxi, tuk tuk, and moto.

Phnom Penh international airport arrivals

Welcome to Phnom Penh International Airport. Here’s how to leave.

Taking a taxi from Phnom Penh Airport

Taxis are the fastest, safest way to get from the airport into Phnom Penh, especially if you’re carrying lots of expensive equipment on you. You can either get an airport taxi or a private taxi.
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Phnom Penh metered taxis and taxi-booking apps

In the last few years metered taxis have become popular in Phnom Penh, offering a safer and sometimes less expensive ride than the alternatives. Unlike in many major cities, taxis need to be reserved in advance by phone or app, and can almost never be flagged down on the street. However a quick call or swipe can have a taxi to you in less than ten minutes. Here’s a rundown of the best taxi companies and taxi booking apps in Phnom Penh.

Phnom Penh taxis

Metered taxis can be a safer and less expensive alternative way to get around Phnom Penh

Cambodia taxi apps

Uber has finally arrived in Cambodia, but the local alternatives are better established and often less expensive. PassApp Taxis, Exnet Taxi, and iTsumo are Uber-like taxi apps operating in Phnom Penh that allow you to book a metered tuk tuk, taxi, or SUV with the touch of a button (theoretically). Continue reading

Kirirom National Park: Pine trees, fresh air, and dinosaurs

The most southerly point of the Cardamom Mountain range, Kirirom National Park rises from the flat rice fields and mango plantations, and the natural beauty found its pine trees, mountain lakes, wildflowers, and seemingly endless vistas make the journey to Cambodia’s first National Park worth the effort.

Kirirom National Park

Kirirom National Park: Worth the Effort.

Halfway between Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville along National Road 4, Kirirom National Park is 700 meters above sea level. The cooler temperatures and inviting odor of pine means that Kirirom offers the closest glimpse of the forests of Europe in Cambodia, while the piles of plastic garbage along the winding road help to remind you just where you actually are. Continue reading

Phnom Penh public buses

In a city that now contains ride-hailing apps for tuk tuks and taxis, as well as the existing motorbike taxis and tuk tuks on most street corners, the bus system is still a welcome addition. Phnom Penh’s public bus system has recently expanded to eight routes, and finally offers a service that is useful to residents and visitors alike. Yes, they can be slower than other transport on the capital’s increasingly traffic-clogged streets, but the bus system is a much more comfortable way to endure a traffic jam.

Phnom Penh public bus

Get on the bus!

Tickets for a single journey cost 1,500 riel, less that $0.40 USD, on air-conditioned new buses courtesy of China, and services run from 5:30 a.m. until 8:30 p.m. It’s worth noting that you will need a new ticket for each bus you get on, so make sure you have plenty of riel notes if planning to hop buses.

Bus stops are a mixture of covered seating and more simple signposts, and all contain the route map for that particular bus route. However, to get the most use from the system, download the free “Stops Near Me” app. Not only does it show the full route map for all buses and marks bus stops in English, but it also live tracks buses so you know when the next one is arriving. You can download the app for free from Google Play or Apple App Store.

Why you should take the bus:

  • The new buses are safer than motorbikes and tuk tuks, and remove the threat of bag/phone snatching.
  • You don’t need to negotiate prices.
  • The air conditioning offers a respite from the heat, noise, dust and smells of Phnom Penh streets.
  • It is by far the cheapest option, even for short journeys. A bus on Route 3 from the night market to Phnom Penh airport is only $0.40 cents, while a street tuk tuk will be $7 with some haggling, and an app-hailed taxi closer to $8.

The routes:

Route 1: Traverses vertically for much of the city, from the Cho Ray hospital on National Road 1 in Chbar Ampov (on the way to Vietnam), passes over Monivong bridge, up Monivong Boulevard, past the French Embassy and continues up along Highway 5 past the Cham muslim community and the Ammar Ebn Yasser mosque.

Route 2: Another vertical route, goes from Takhmao city in the south, up Norodom Boulevard, past Independence Monument and Wat Phnom, before heading west to northern Toul Kork neighbourhood at Aeon Mall 2.

Route 3: Heading east to west, this goes from the Riverside bus depot next to the Night Market (and where many major bus and minibus services leave and depart), past the Central Market and the Airport.

Route 4: Going past Wat Phnom, Central Market, and the Olympic Stadium, south of the airport it splits, with 4A going connecting with the Route 3 terminus south of the airport near National Road 3, and 4B going west to the the Extraordinary Chambers of the Courts of Cambodia (ECCC), more commonly known at the Khmer Rouge Tribunal, and terminating at the Phnom Penh Special Economic Zone.

Route 5: Starts behind Aeon Mall 1 and close to Diamond Island, before heading west along Mao Tse Tung Boulevard, passing just to the north of Russian Market, and then turning to the north, through Toul Kork and terminating at Aeon Mall 2.

Route 6: Begins near the airport, and heads east through Toul Kork, past the French Embassy, before heading north along National Road 6 and terminating a short walk from the Silk Island ferry.

Route 7: Heads south from National Road 5, through Toul Kork, past Royal University of Phnom Penh, before splitting, with 7A heading past the Olympic Stadium and Independence monument, terminating behind Aeon Mall 1, while 7B heads east over the Monivong bridge, terminating in Chbar Ampov.

Route 8: Starts where Route 6 terminates, by the Silk Island Ferry, then heads further north before turning west, past the construction for Cambodia’s hosting of the 2023 SEA Games and the city’s premier golf course Garden City, before crossing the LYP bridge and back south along National Road 5 to the Route 1 and Route 7 terminus.

Expat Kid Q&A: Ups and downs of parenting in Phnom Penh

In this expat series about raising kids in Cambodia, we talk to parents about the finer points of child rearing in the Kingdom of Wonder.

Anais and kids, family

Phnom Penh residents: Anaïs and family.

French expat Anaïs Pagès Peeters has been living in Phnom Penh for eight years, with her Belgian husband and their children, who are now five and three years old. Anaïs is a freelance writer and runs a small business called globe-crawlers.com, that sells locally made accessories for babies and toddlers on the go. Move to Cambodia first got the low-down from Anaïs on expat kids in Phnom Penh in 2015, but she’s recently updated  a few of her answers.

What’s the best part about raising kids in Cambodia?

I would have personally found it hard to leave my babies in a daycare, which would have been my only affordable choice in Europe. Here, knowing that my children are being taken care of by a loving and caring person in their own home environment, while still having some time to socialize with other children as well, is very reassuring.

Kids usually love to swim. It is swimming outside season pretty much every month of the year in Cambodia. The beach is only 3.5 hours away and is great for a weekend break.

Also, we have a really good social life! Our nanny doubles as a paid-by-the-hour baby-sitter when we need her outside her normal 9-6 shift. We usually go out twice a week, with friends over the weekend, and for a dinner date with my husband one night of the week. There are many really good restaurants in Phnom Penh, with cool new ones opening almost every month. A night out here is so cheap and so easy, so we’re really not depriving ourselves of that. Also, being part of an expat community means you usually have a sizable network of friends. People you probably wouldn’t have met if you had lived next door to them back home. I have some very strong friendships here and we’re really there for each other when things go wrong. It doesn’t replace family, but it’s quite similar.

There are more and more activities organized for babies and children. Your week can fill up pretty quickly taking them to these different places (baby groups, music classes for babies and toddlers, dancing, swimming, etc.)

Kids playgroup

There are more and more playgroups for babies and kids in Phnom Penh.

What’s the worst part about raising kids in Phnom Penh?

When you have a small baby, you can’t just take him in the carrier or put him in his stroller and go for a walk or grocery shopping. There is no walking over here (no sidewalk, sweltering heat). If you’re lucky you may have a driver and a car but the rest of us have to rely on (unreliable) tuk tuks, who ask for extortionate fares when you start comparing with, for example, the salary of your nanny who has important skills and responsibilities. Tuk tuks have the same inconveniences of a car (they get stuck in traffic) and of a motorbike (you are hot, breathe in dust and the exhaust fumes…) all in one without any of its advantages.

Schools are pretty expensive whereas back home it would be free. Also, is very hard to find an affordable house with a small garden unless you decide to live in Tuol Kork, Boeung Tumpun or other areas away from the center. Which is a shame because children love to run and play outside.

What are your favorite activities for kids in Phnom Penh?

Going to walk in front on the Royal Palace on a Sunday evening with my baby in her stroller and my toddler on his balance bike. One of the only place in town where we can have a short stroll.

If you could give one piece of advice to new expat parents in Phnom Penh, what would it be?

The poor health care system. I have recently found a great pediatrician, which is very reassuring. But I always worry that if something bad happens to my kids, I wouldn’t even really know where to go. I don’t even completely trust the two clinics (SOS and Royal Rattanak) that are considered to have standards closest to Western ones. Another worry is HOW to get to these places. There is no ambulance service and the few private ones that some hospitals have are always stuck in Phnom Penh’s terrible traffic. No one budges to let them go!

What has changed since your blog post in two years ago? Has your perspective on expat parenting changed?

It has changed a lot since I moved to BKK1, because it has made my life easier. Traffic and the extreme heat used to really get to me, so it so much easier to ne just a walking distance from shops and a biking distance to school and work.

I also don’t have babies anymore, there are slightly more things to do when you have preschoolers (school obviously, but also after-school activities, play-dates where you can drop your kids off etc) and I don’t have to sweat with a baby in a carrier or go crazy trying to push a stroller on non-existent sidewalks.