basik 855: Kickstarting Cambodian ikat textiles

It’s not often you see a Cambodia-based company show up on Kickstarter, so when we did, and it was basik 855, we were delighted. We’ve been admiring basik 855‘s collection of bags, scarves and pillows made from gorgeous Cambodian textiles for a while now, so we took this opportunity to catch up with Leigh Morlock, the company’s creative director.

basik 855’s heathered scarf is one of the rewards you can get via their Kickstarter campaign.

MTC: Can you tell me a little bit about yourself and how you ended up in Cambodia?

LM: Of course! I’m a Jersey girl who studied Theater Arts & Political Science at Drew University. I always dreamed of becoming a theater director, until I found myself working as a creative coordinator at a fashion handbag brand in New York City. I found myself in a new industry using the same creative skills I’d honed in regional theaters in the Northeast.

As I learned more about designing prints and patterns, choosing colors, and identifying key styles for the fashion accessories industry, I found myself more and more at home.

During the very beginning of the recession in 2008, I lost my job, which turned out to be a blessing in disguise. Nine months later, when my mentor called to tell me about a job opening in Cambodia, I had no obligations keeping me from saying yes. In late 2009, I moved to Cambodia to incubate a small textile weaving business, which over the years has evolved from Push Pull Cambodia into basik 855.

One of basik 855’s local weavers in Takeo, Cambodia.

What’s the idea behind basik 855?

Our weavers and artisans inspired our business. When we first visited Takeo, we were struck by the poverty in a region where nearly everyone is trained in an intricate and complex art form.

The initial challenge was to see if we could connect our artisans, who are masters at what they do, with a global market. Luckily, we received an order very early into our exploration that proved we could market and sell Cambodian ikat textiles and products.

basik 855 isn’t a souvenir company. We make fashionable, everyday accessories for women who appreciate the detail and care that goes into handcrafted items. Our approach utilizes the talents that have been passed from generation to generation of weavers while also imparting our patterns with a modern, global aesthetic. Each season we take into account the newest and most exciting design trends and colors; because of this, our product is equally at home on the streets of New York and Los Angeles as they are in Phnom Penh and Sydney.

The basik 855 weavers are paid a living wage for their skilled work on the looms.

How is basik 855 different from Cambodian garment factories?

Our weaving center is based in Takeo, Cambodia, the hub of Cambodian weaving and the homeland of most ikat artisans.

The biggest difference would be that our artisans are paid a living wage and provided an extensive benefits package that includes medical reimbursements, annual ophthalmology exams and glasses, paid time off, and maternity leave.

Compared to traditional garment factories, our weaving center also operates on an intentionally smaller scale. This fosters a more creative and open environment, which helps our design team sketch on their own schedule and enables us to hold bi-weekly status meetings with our employees.

One of the basik 855 weavers creating a spindle.

What is ikat and what is its significance in Cambodia?

Making ikat is not fast, nor is it simple. It is intricate, time-intensive, and an art unto itself. The process involves dyeing individual cotton threads, which are eventually woven on traditional looms into full bolts of fabric.

Ikat has been practiced in Cambodia for over 800 years and is easily recognized today in the sampot hol skirt that women wear to ceremonies and as pidan, tapestries that decorate pagodas.

After the Khmer Rouge, the knowledge of weaving ikat was nearly lost in Cambodia. basik 855 hopes to revive the industry and show the world that our artisans are masters at what they do. Their skilled hands tell a story with each bolt of fabric and infuse our items with both personality and tradition.

Made in Cambodia, but stylish enough for New York.

Why are you doing a Kickstarter campaign and how can we help?

Our company is young. We’re small. We’re also innovative. Crowdfunding is a great way to raise capital; however, it’s also a way to create a sense of community and forge connections with like-minded people. We need both – funding and a basik community – in order to expand our business.

There are three very important ways that you can help. First, visit our project on Kickstarter, all incoming traffic inches us closer to becoming a popular project and ultimately a Staff Pick. Secondly, if any of our gorgeous rewards appeal to you, then please back our project. Third, will you share this campaign with … everyone you know?

You can see more of basik 855’s products on their website, or learn more about their Kickstarter campaign (and help fund it!)

Snaps: North Korean restaurant in Phnom Penh

The floor show at Pyongyang, a North Korean restaurant in Phnom Penh.

It’s no secret that Cambodia is on good terms with North Korea. So I guess it’s no surprise that there are North Korean restaurants in Cambodia. There are several, but the most famous in Phnom Penh is Pyongyang, which is said to be run by the North Korean government as a means of producing hard currency for the regime.

Every night the waitresses do a floor show that involves singing traditional Korean songs, playing instruments and dancing. They also walk around and talk to the South Korean patrons that mostly fill the place, and occasionally try and talk to the Western customers, too. One of the waitresses told me that the weather is always good in North Korea, at least, better than in Cambodia.

Cambodia Jungle Fever: Ratanakiri, Mondulkiri and Koh Kong

Today we have a post from Max Harland and André Ruys, who both have a serious case of Cambodia jungle fever. They run small group tours of the Cambodian countryside and jungle and have shared some of their favorite spots with Move to Cambodia.

Chi Phat ecotourism

Chi Phat in Kong Kong Province is becoming one of Cambodia’s premier ecotourism destination.

So here you are, living in Cambodia and (hopefully) enjoying every minute of it. Angkor Wat is your second home, Phnom Penh your playground, and Sihanoukville your favorite spot for weekend trips. But maybe you’re looking for a change of scenery… How about the jungle? For those with an adventurous spirit, you’ll find our top recommendations below.

Ratanakiri

jungle Ratanakiri

Ratanakiri is filled with trekking options and stunning views.

Getting to Ratanakiri, the northeastern-most province in Cambodia, is quite a journey. Allow 10 to 12 hours by bus (a little less if you get a cab) to get from Phnom Penh to Banlung, the main town in Ratanakiri. A long trip indeed, but definitely worth it. Trekking in Ratanakiri is outstanding, and there are many different options. Here are our suggestions:

  • Don’t miss Yak Lom Lake. This 49-meter deep crater lake is the perfect spot to chill out and get a fresh evening swim after a long hiking day. Stay there until sunset–you’ll get some stunning views when the sun goes down over the lake.
  • Visit Kachon Cemetery, located close to the Lao village. There, you’ll run into dozens of wooden statues representing the deceased person buried below them. A unique experience.
  • Many of the most beautiful waterfalls in Cambodia can be found in the Ratanakiri province. Among others, check out Katien waterfall and the seven steps waterfall.
  • If you have the budget for it, go Gibbons spotting. This recently created activity allows you to see the northern yellow-cheeked gibbons, a rare and endangered species of ape.
  • Watch locals mining gems. In order to find precious stones, locals get 10 to 15 meters deep into the ground, which is very impressive to watch. In some areas, you’ll also get to see locals gold hunting in the river.

Mondulkiri

Go for a dip with the locals in Bou Sra Waterfall in Mondulkiri.

  • Mondulkiri is the least-populated province in Cambodia. It’ll take you 7 to 9 hours to reach Sen Monorom, the Province’s capital, which has a population of around 8000 people. The scenery there is beautiful, featuring jungle, mountains and wildlife.
  • Get to Bou Sra, which probably the biggest waterfall in Cambodia, and definitely the most impressive.
  • Visit a Phnong village. The Phnong people are the local minority in the Mondulkiri Province. Walk through one of their villages and admire the beautiful circular bamboo huts.
  • Spend a day or two volunteering at the Elephant Valley Project. The organization works to protect wild elephants from captivity. Help them out with their daily or monthly projects and you’ll get to watch elephants roaming around their protected sanctuary in the Seima forest. Don’t expect elephant-riding or fun tricks there, as it is all about giving their wilderness back to the elephants.
  • Go mountain biking in Mondulkiri! The green and hilly Mondulkiri landscapes are perfect for that.
  • Get to the Sea Forest close to Sen Monorom and enjoy the exceptional panoramic view over the jungle.

Koh Kong

Tai Tai Waterfall in Koh Kong is especially impressive during rainy season.

Once very hard to reach from the rest of Cambodia, the Koh Kong Province is now easily accessible thanks to the newly-paved road that leads to it. Koh Kong home to the Cardamom mountains, a 300km mountain range that goes up to Thailand. The region has been badly hit by illegal logging and hunting, but things are slowly starting to change as ecotourism and myriad activities for tourists are being developed in the region. Here’s our selection of things to do there:

  • Get to Chi Phat in the Cardamom mountains for a few days. Kayaking, hiking, mountain-biking, bird-watching; there’s no lack of activities in Chi Phat. Until five years ago, this medium-sized village got most of its revenues from poaching. Then in 2007, The Wildlife Alliance started to work with the local community to transform the village into what has become the main ecotourism destination in Cambodia.

    Mountain biking in Chi Phat

    Mountain biking in Chi Phat.

  • From a couple hundred tourists the first year, tourism in Chi Phat has grown to host more than 2000 visitors last year. Everything is well organized and the equipment provided (mountain bikes, hammocks, kayaks) is top quality. However, Chi Phat remains a small village located in the middle of the jungle with basic accommodation (although you can stay at the eco-lodge for a bit more comfort) so expect a great immersive experience.
  • Do the mangrove walk! This 1.5 km wooden walkway among the flooded forest is thoroughly enjoyable. The great panoramic view from the 15-meter high observation tower is a highlight.
  • Go for a swim at Ta Tai Waterfall. The Rainbow Lodge river eco-resort is a perfect getaway for a relaxing weekend away from the city. If you want to add a little luxury to your trip, stay at 4 Rivers Floating Lodge for the night. The lodge is composed of 12 bungalows, which sit on Ta Tai River.

These remote Cambodian regions are definitely worth a visit, and will allow you to discover a different side of the Kingdom of Wonder. What you’ll bring home after a trip to the Cambodian wilderness? Sore legs, a few bruises and scratches… and priceless memories!

Max and André both work for Triple A Cambodia. While Max is still relatively new to Cambodia (he’s been here for less than a year), he’s already explored all of the least visited northern regions of the country. André, on the other hand, has been living and working in Cambodia for 13 years and has been pretty much everywhere in the Kingdom. Their goal with Triple A is to show short-term visitors a different side of the country by taking them to the provinces and letting them meet the locals.

Snaps: Cambodian cyclo driver

Cambodian cyclo driver in Phnom Penh.

This photograph was taken in 2010 of a Cambodian cyclo driver in front of the Phnom Penh post office. The post office itself is one of the most beautiful French colonial buildings in town, but the buildings it faces are decrepit and falling apart. To me, this photograph represents the Phnom Penh that is quickly disappearing.

Most cyclo drivers have given up this old fashioned form of transportation, trading in their trusty cyclos for motos. The ones who are left are mostly older–like this one–and have nothing else they can do. At night, they gather together so they can sleep in their cyclos near one another to keep each other safe.

Snaps: Floating village in Kandal

A floating village in Kandal province, Cambodia.

I visited this island in Kandal province in late 2010. I was with a loan office for a microfinance organization and he pointed out the floating village next to the island.

“Vietnamese,” he said. “They can’t afford land.”

Activities for young children in Siem Reap

Today we have a post from Rachel Band about an area she specializes in, activities and things to do for young children in Siem Reap. Rachel has lived in Cambodia for 8 years and is the mother of a two-year-old and an almost-four-year-old.  She also co-owns Rosy Guesthouse, a kid-friendly accommodation in Siem Reap.

Siem Reap mini golf

Kids love playing miniature golf at Angkor Wat Putt.

RB: “I didn’t move to Cambodia with children, but now after eight years in the Kingdom and two kids later, my priorities now are firmly focused on activities to entertain my children, who are both under five. I was champing at the bit to find some classes to enrol the kids in once they started playschool/school, and disappointingly–but perhaps not unsurprisingly–found that the majority of the after-school activities offered by the international schools are for children aged five or six and over. I have since however found several locally-based activities for my little ones that keep them, and us, more than occupied.

With the virtual guarantee of good weather year round (even during the rainy season months the mornings are normally clear and dry) swimming is a popular and obvious choice for those with children, and something that we try to fit in once a week as a family. My oldest has recently started group swimming lessons with Siem Reap Swimming Academy (SRSA), run by a British swimming instructor with five years experience. Affordable private and group classes with a maximum of six students per group are available for children from four years old, with some of the classes being run through international schools. Swimming lesson day has become the best day of my daughter’s week, and I can see her confidence and technique improving with each class.

Swimming in Siem Reap

Swimming is a great activities for all ages in Siem Reap.

Many hotels and restaurants with swimming pools will allow outside guests to use them for a day fee or with money spent on the menu. Our favourite is the aptly named River Garden which has a salt water splash pool with waterfall at one end and a deep plunge pool at the other surrounded by a dense garden setting and sun loungers or shaded seating options. Entrance is free with any food or drink order from their mouth watering menu; Western-style swimwear is requested, noodle floating aids and floats are available and towels are available for hire.

Similarly, Kanell Restaurant offers free use of their chlorinated garden swimming pool with $5 spent on the menu, the burgers and Khmer curries are recommended. Even at midday shade is provided by the trees surrounding the pool and there are again sun loungers and shared daybed seating options and towels are provided. Both The River Garden and Kanell have other water features in their gardens so young children will need to be supervised both in and out of the pool.

Angkor Era Hotel pool, Siem Reap

The Angkor Era Hotel pool is one of the biggest in Siem Reap, and kid friendly.

A popular hotel pool, and one of the largest in Siem Reap, is the womb-shaped pool at Angkor Era Hotel; I kid you not, check their website. For US$8 ($2 for under 12s) you can make use of their pool, sauna and steam room, and gym. The price for adults also includes a one-hour Khmer massage. While the hotel is popular with Asian tour groups, the pool is normally quiet midweek in the daytime, just don’t think of the womb shape while you’re swimming!

All children love bouncy castles, and Happy Hop Playground has five of them conveniently located on the same grounds as Angkor Wat Putt, a 14-hole mini golf course through miniature replicas of the Angkor temples. For the modest sum of US$2 (expats get a reduced rate of $1), children have unlimited use of the Happy Hop bouncy castles and other playground equipment all underneath a shade cloth to keep them cool. My children enjoy jumping and playing on the bouncy castles when we go, with the Thomas the Tank Engine bouncer being a favourite with my two-year-old son. The bouncy castles are also available for private hire off site and are a popular choice for children’s birthday parties.

Angkor Wat Putt Siem Reap

Miniature golfing through Angkorian temples? Yes, please.

Angkor Wat Putt itself is fun for the whole family. They have golf clubs in three different sizes (our two had no problem using the smallest size when they played) and their staff will gladly assist children to play, if needed. Children’s attention will be held by the differing ways to navigate the ball around each golf “hole”; through tubes; between posts; around corners and even avoiding water; be prepared for delighted splashes! The garden at Angkor Wat Putt is still in its infancy so shade is not in great supply and midday mini golf is not recommended. There is a central covered seating area for little legs to rest in the shade or with a cool drink if needed; a free drink is offered for every “hole in one” scored, however I wouldn’t press this too much on your children’s first visit.

Angkor Wat Putt has drinks and snacks for sale but allow customers to bring outside food and drink as well. Our children loved the mini golf when we went but neither made it through all 14 holes. I’m sure with our planned regular visits they will both become quite adept at it, and if their interest does wane there is always the Happy Hop bouncers to jump on while the rest of the family finishes off their game. Angkor Wat Putt is US$5 for adults, US$4 for children 3-12 years and free under 3 years old. Expats get a discounted rate of $4 and $2 for adults and kids 3-12 respectively.

One of the only purpose-designed activities for children in Siem Reap is Jungle Junction, a house of fun for kids with an outdoors playground, sand pit, large bouncy castle and trampoline, all with added shade. Outside shaded seating is in ample supply too. Indoors they have a soft play room with ball pit and a cinema room with seats specifically made for little bottoms. Spend $10 per table and children can play for free, otherwise child entrance is $2 each. What sets Jungle Junction apart as a children’s centre in Siem Reap for our family is the availability of baby changing units in both upstairs and downstairs bathrooms (downstairs offers more room), it makes a huge difference to changing our son on the floor or when still seated at the table as we normally have to when out and about.

While no high chairs are currently available, Jungle Junction has a children’s menu (the Pink Panther pepperoni pizza and Spider Man spaghetti bolognaise are our kid’s favourites). All kids menu items come with a milkshake and dessert). Adults are more than catered for too on their menu with recommended ribs and a popular Sunday roast. Jungle Junction can organise children’s parties on site, taking the hassle out of planning and clearing up at your own house.

horseriding Siem Reap

Horse and pony rides are a fun option for kids in Siem Reap.

We recently went to The Happy Ranch for a 30 minute lead ride for our oldest, who is just shy of 4 years old, to see if it’s an activity she would like to take up and an opportunity for our younger child to spend time with some of the 46 horses and ponies at the Ranch to develop his confidence around the as-yet-unfamiliar animals. Children from approximately three years old can enjoy lead rides US$14 for 30 minutes, small size horse riding helmets are available. Our son was desperate to get on the horse too after seeing his big sister do it, and we were advised that if he’s confident around the horses and is able to sit on the saddle solo then there is no reason for him not to try too. He will be getting a lead ride next time we go, although I’m sure mum or dad will be walking alongside the horse too, just in case.

Horse riding lessons are not currently offered at The Happy Ranch due to no one currently working there being a fully qualified instructor, however any of the international staff will be happy to offer advice and direction for correct posture and sitting position whilst on the horses, which we were told will set the stage for lessons in the future. While it’s not a cheap option in Siem Reap, this is an activity that would be price prohibitive in our home country, and if it’s something that our children enjoy I see this as one of the many advantages to growing up in Cambodia.

One activity that has unfortunately finished but I’m seriously considering actively campaigning for a return of, is kids yoga at the Peace Cafe. In March this year the Peace Cafe ran a short series of midweek and weekend kids yoga classes with a visiting yoga teacher which was very well received. The Peace Cafe have suggested that this may resume later this year…our fingers are firmly crossed.”

Siem Reap Swimming Academy (SRSA)
T: 089 66 42 66
srsacambodia@hotmail.com

The River Garden
West River Road, North of National Road 6, Siem Reap
T: 063 963 400; 089 351 571
www.therivergarden.info

Kanell Restaurant
7 Makara Road, (High School Road), Siem Reap
T: 077 20 71 00; 099 630 644
Open daily, 10:00-22:00
www.kanellrestaurant.com

Angkor Era Hotel
T: 063 968 968
National Road 6, Siem Reap
www.angkorera.com

Happy Hop Playground
7 Makara Road, (High School Road)
T: 097 640 4268
Open Monday to Saturday, 16:00- 20:00
Open Sundays and holidays, 8:00-20:00
www.angkorwatputt.com

Angkor Wat Putt
7 Makara Road, (High School Road)
T: 012 302 330
Open daily, 7:30-23:00
www.angkorwatputt.com

The Happy Ranch
Group 4, Svay Dangkum
T: 012 920 002; 016 920 002
www.thehappyranch.com

Jungle Junction
7 Makara Road, (High School Road)
T: 098 293 400
Open daily, 8:00-23:00
www.junglejunctionsiemreap.com

Peace Cafe
Street 26, Off East River Road
T: 063 965 210; 092 177 127
Open daily, 7:00 to 21:00
www.peacecafeangkor.org

Snaps: Aerobics at Olympic Stadium

Aerobics Cambodia-style (Cambodia sty?)

When I first moved to Cambodia, I wanted to see and experience everything. So when I saw the group aerobics classes that take place at dawn and dusk all over Phnom Penh, I was eager to get involved. The aerobics at Olympic Stadium are particularly good–there are hundreds of middle-aged women, dressed mostly in matching pajamas swinging their arms in time to Chinese techno. Each group of twenty to fifty ladies is led by an instructor who gets 500 riel from each of them for his efforts.

So I showed up with two of my friends and tried to keep up with the low-impact aerobics, which were surprisingly difficult to follow because I didn’t speak a word of Khmer. A group of teenage Cambodian girls gathered behind us, giggling, watching the barang make fools of themselves. It was one of the more embarrassing (and uniquely Cambodian) experiences I’ve had here.

Review: Plantation Hotel, Phnom Penh colonial glamour

Whether you’re looking for a quiet weekend hang out or a place to put the folks up, Plantation Hotel is one of the finest recent additions to Phnom Penh’s flourishing boutique hotel scene.

Plantation Hotel Phnom Penh

Plantation Hotel offers a tranquil escape from Phnom Penh’s hectic streets.

Expats can tell you that the architecture of Phnom Penh is a hodge podge of gracefully run down colonial mansions, stylish 60s homes that still feel contemporary, and the post-conflict abominations that cropped up as employment and wealth flooded back into the city after UNTAC’s arrival in 1992.

The Plantation Hotel is a wonderful example of how all three periods in the city’s history can be harmonized, bringing out the best of each.

Central location

Located on Street 184 in the pleasant precinct surrounding the Royal Palace, Plantation is the 6th property in the boutique hotel portfolio of Alexis de Suremain.

The hotelier has been operating hospitality businesses in Cambodia since 2004 and in this latest offering his experience and good taste are evident. Beautifully refurbished, the former government building was initially constructed in the 1930s and eventually housed Cambodia’s Ministry of Labor. Slated for demolition in 2011, the original structure was saved by de Suremain and with its new lease on life as a hotel strikes the right balance between classic service and fresh surrounds.

Plantation Phnom Penh Poolside

The Plantation’s “poolside menu” is available at both pools, on the roof top terrace, and in your room

In the surrounding streets you’ll find art stores, boutiques, cafes and bars to suit any taste or budget. There’s also the National Museum and Royal Palace for tourists who are keen to get cultural.

Pick of the rooms

The perfect oasis for harboring visitors from home, double rooms start at a reasonable price of USD 65 (although they can often be found cheaper on Agoda).

Plantation Phnom Penh room

A Deluxe Twin room sleeps 3 and will set you back USD 120.

Basic rooms are equipped with air conditioning, mosquito nets and a safe, in addition to other standard amenities.

Deluxe options are more spacious and may offer a balcony or direct access to the pool as well as a breakfast buffet. There are a large number of ground floor rooms catering to those with mobility issues. Or in my case, to sate my desire for direct access to the 20m guest-only pool.

Plantation Phnom Penh pool

The main pool is secluded from non-guest areas and surrounded by private cabanas. The poolside restaurant is within casual waving distance and can ply you with tasty snacks and cocktails all day.

The stand out accommodation choice that is sure to please luxe travelers is the 200sqm apartment suite. Equipped with its own jacuzzi and spacious entertaining areas both indoors and out, you’ll never want to leave.

Hotel facilities

With two pools available to guests (one is not accessible by outsiders visiting the hotel) and a full service spa you can’t avoid indulging in some relaxation during your stay.

Phnom Penh Plantation

Pool, bar or restaurant? What does it matter so long as you like to swim, drink or eat?

For those with one eye on the Blackberry, the hotel provides free wifi access throughout the common areas and in all rooms, as well as meeting room facilities. Go let off some steam in the gym after your conference call and then meet up with travel companions at the poolside bar to ease into the evening.

What to eat

When you’re ready for a nibble, choose from the two quality restaurants located on site or wander out for anything from Latin American to Indonesian cuisine and everything in between.

In house, the poolside restaurant serves up international cuisine including soups, sandwiches and pasta. Prices start at $4 for appetizers and $6 for mains.

Patterned tiles at Phnom Penh's Plantation

I may be a sucker for patterned tiles but those with more refined taste will enjoy the range of delicious modern Khmer dishes being served up at Plantation Restaurant.

For a more refined dining experience head up to the elegant Plantation Restaurant on the first floor of the hotel’s colonial era entrance building. The contemporary Khmer dishes will leave you unable to resist a return visit.

Take me there

Plantation Hotel was recently received a TripAdvisor traveler’s choice award for 2013 and is a member of the Childsafe Network.

Click to book your room on Agoda or, if you have specific requirements, you can contact the hotel directly on +855 23 215 151.