Is it safe to visit Cambodia right now?

Posted on January 7, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

If you’ve been following the news, you might be worried about visiting Cambodia right now. Protests by the opposition party (CNRP) have been going on since the August election that left the ruling party (CPP) with a thin margin of votes, a thin margin that the CNRP says they didn’t actually receive. Over the last week, though, garment factory strikes turned into violent demonstrations, and the government used force to clear Phnom Penh’s Freedom Park of protesters. So, what does this mean for you, you might wonder?

Phnom Penh riot police

Phnom Penh is in a state of alert, but a drowsy sort of alert.

Very little. While this may seem like the end of days for those reading the long-term expat Ken Cramer, who has seen this sort of thing before.

While the protests in Phnom Penh’s Freedom Park were going on over the last few days, I walked around the riverside, the city’s main tourist area. Had I not known about the protests, I would not have realized anything was out of the ordinary–everything in Phnom Penh is completely business as usual. Restaurants, bars and movie theaters are open and tourist attractions are not currently affected.

It’s important to note that while some of the protests have turned violent, no tourists or expats have been targeted. Both the CPP and CNRP are well aware that tourism drives Cambodia’s economy and no one wants to do anything to endanger those tourist dollars. So even when protests are happening at Freedom Park, the tourism industry has been entirely unaffected. The garment factory demonstrations have been the most violent, with several strikers being killed, but this took place outside of central Phnom Penh, in an area no tourist would ever find himself.

The best advice we can give is that visitors should avoid the protest areas and if they see anything that looks like a demonstration, protest or large group of people, it’s best to avoid the scene. Yesterday the protests were banned, and citizens are not allowed to gather in groups larger than ten people, but it remains to be seen if these rules will be followed. If you do see a protest, going to take photos, watching or getting involved is not advised, because when billy clubs start swinging they’re just as likely to crack your melon as anyone else’s.

Right now all of the protests are happening in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, Kampot, Kep, and Sihanoukville are entirely unaffected. In Phnom Penh the worst that tourists may experience is some slight traffic delays when there are marches happening, but even those are fairly minor.

It’s likely going to be several weeks before the next stage of Cambodia’s political future becomes clear. If the situation does escalate, we’ll revise our advice at that time, but for now, don’t worry about coming to Cambodia.

What Americans need to know about paying taxes in Cambodia

Posted on January 6, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

In today’s post, Move to Cambodia talks to David McKeegan, the co-founder of Greenback Taxes, a firm that specializes in preparing US tax returns for American expats. I’ve personally used Greenback since I moved to Cambodia  and have been very happy with the work they have done and most importantly, their level of responsiveness. If you’ve used bigger firms for your taxes, you’ll know how much that means (PwC I’m looking at you). Greenback Taxes is the first Move to Cambodia advertiser–but only after I had already been a happy customer for my last two tax returns.

If you’re an American in Cambodia or an American planning on moving to Cambodia, listen up. David has answered all of your tax-related questions here (and if you have more, please feel free to leave them in the comments).

As an American expat in Cambodia, what are my responsibilities in regard to paying taxes?

“Americans living in Cambodia are required to file a US tax return each year. The US taxes its citizens on worldwide income, so any income you earn in Cambodia is subject to US taxes. Fortunately, those that qualify as a resident of another country (through the Physical Presence test or the Bona Fide Residence test) can utilize several deductions and exclusions to offset their tax liability:

  • The Foreign Earned Income Exclusion – This allows you to exclude up to $97,600USD of yearly income

  • The Foreign Tax Credit – This is a dollar for dollar credit for the taxes you pay in Cambodia.

  • The Foreign Housing Exclusion – This allows you to deduct a certain amount of your housing expenses to offset the cost of living abroad.

In addition to US tax obligations, Cambodian residents are subject to Cambodian taxes on their worldwide income; non-residents are taxed on their Cambodian-sourced income only. For tax purposes, a resident is someone who has their principal abode in Cambodia or is present for more than 182 days in any period of 12 months ending in the current tax year.

Both residents and non-residents are subject to Cambodian Taxes on Salary (ToS). ToS includes salary, remuneration, wages, bonus, overtime, compensation and fringe benefits as part of your taxable income. Taxes are withheld by your employer so you do not need to file a Cambodian tax return. However, self-employed individuals must file a yearly tax return.”

I’ve heard that if I don’t make that much money in a year, I don’t have to pay taxes. Is that true?

“US citizens must file a tax return if their income is above a certain threshold, even if there is no tax liability. It is indeed possible, and likely, that you won’t pay any US taxes while living abroad.

It is also possible you won’t pay any Cambodia taxes if you make a small amount of money. Cambodian residents earning 500,000 KHR or less per month, pay a Cambodian tax rate of 0% and do not owe taxes on salary. But from there, tax rates are progressive depending on your income, ranging from 5% to 20%. It’s important to note that a flat tax rate of 20% applies to non-residents.”

What if I’m self-employed?

“For self-employment or investment income, 6,000,000KHR or less per year is exempt from tax. Above this threshold the rates are progressive, ranging from 5% to 20%.

For those who are self-employed, it is important to note that even if you don’t owe taxes to Cambodia, your income must be reported on your US tax return. This may result in taxes being owed to the US. Self-employment tax, for example, is assessed based on your gross income before you apply the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion or other deductions.”

If I don’t owe any taxes, why should I file a tax return?

“Americans living abroad whose income is above a certain threshold are required to file a US tax return each year, regardless of whether or not they will owe American taxes. Currently the thresholds are:

  • Single with income over $9,350

  • Married filing jointly with income over $18,700

  • Married filing separately with income over $3,650

In addition, it’s important to note that you may need to file a state tax return, depending on the state you resided in prior to your move overseas.”

What is FBAR (Foreign Bank Account Report) and how does it affect expats in Cambodia?

“All US citizens are subject to FBAR filing if certain thresholds are met. Any US taxpayer with $10,000 or more in foreign bank accounts at any point in the tax year must disclose this money through an FBAR form. This is a cumulative account total, so if you have 3 different accounts that total $10,000 or more, you will be required to file. As of September 2013, all FBAR forms must be filed electronically–no paper filings will be accepted. Penalties for failing to file FBAR when required are steep, so it is important to disclose your account balances if you meet the threshold.”

If I haven’t filed a tax return in several years, what should I do? Will I get in trouble? 

“If you haven’t filed US taxes in several years, it is important to get caught up as soon as possible. While you may not actually owe taxes to the US, you still have filing requirements. It is especially important to get current if you are subject to FBAR filing, as the penalties for failing to do so can be steep. If you are behind in FBAR filings or believe you owe taxes to the US, there are two programs available to help you.

The Streamlined Program is for low-risk taxpayers who do not owe more than $1500 in taxes for any tax year. The Offshore Voluntary Disclosure Program (OVDP) is suitable for those who owe a greater amount of taxes or are significantly behind in FBAR filings. While acceptance to this program comes with hefty penalties on balances owed, you will likely avoid any criminal prosecution that may result from your delinquency.

Snaps: Another goregous day on Koh Totang

Posted on January 5, 2014 by Lina Goldberg
A view off the pier at Koh Totang, Cambodia.

A view off the pier at Koh Totang, Cambodia.

This isn’t the first time I’ve posted a beautiful photo of Koh Totang, and it’s unlikely to be the last. I’ve spent a lot of time on the islands off of Cambodia’s coast, but Koh Totang was particularly picturesque. Almost entirely deserted save for one set of eco-bungalows at a place called read her review here) and the place was so beautiful that we took hundreds of photos between the two of us. As we were about to get into the boat to take us to shore, I stopped to take a few snaps off the pier. Aren’t you tempted?

UK grocer Waitrose products arrive in Cambodia

Posted on January 3, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

Brits and Anglophiles are sure to rejoice when they hear the news that Waitrose products having been appearing on the shelves of Lucky supermarkets in Cambodia. The UK grocer is known for their high-end and expensive groceries (think Whole Foods) but also offer a more affordable line of Waitrose-branded items. Their store-branded line as well as the Cooks’ Ingredients and Prince Charles’ own Duchy Originals are being carried in Cambodia.

Products spotted have included an extensive collection of dried and canned beans and legumes–including several that were previously unavailable in the Kingdom of Wonder–honey, mayonnaise, salad dressing, cereal and muesli, tea, sauces, marmalade, lemon and orange curd, chutneys, jams and jellies, baking ingredients including the long awaited baking powder and cream of tarter, dried soups, capers, peppercorns and pickles. Prices are marginally higher than they cost in the UK, but are still quite reasonable ($1.95) for a can of imported beans. I’ve heard reports that some items are actually cheaper than in the UK, but was unable to confirm. Honestly, it all seems too good to be true. I would suggest buying as much as possible as quickly as possible, both to encourage Lucky to buy and stock even more products and as a hedge against the possibility that this is a one-time shipment.

Updated 3G data plans in Cambodia

Posted on January 2, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

In the Move to Cambodia book, I recommend Cellcard’s INET3 data plan for iPhone, Android and other smart phones. At the time the book was written, it cost $5/month for 2GB of data. Since then, a few things have changed, and it’s all good news.

Cellcard Cambodia

More data than your smart phone can handle!

Cellcard is still offering the INET packages, but they’ve raised the data limits. If you just need data on your phone for one day you can use INET1, which gives you 250MB for 24 hours. INET2 offers 1GB for 7 days for $2. And these days INET3 offers a cool 3.5GB for just $5 a month. You can get any of these plans on your Cellcard phone by texting INET1, INET2 or INET3 to 6767.

Cellcard has also changed their APN settings. If you need to set the APN on your phone to use data, they’ve eliminated the username and password. The new setup is:

APN: Cellcard
Username:
Password:

But wait, there’s more! Cellcard is now offering a new set of data packages, Cellcard XG. They’re similar to the INET plans, except for the same price you get the addition of unlimited same-network texting, some free off-network texts, and free same-network call minutes. So if you’re already on one of the INET packages, it’s worth switching over. Check out their info page for all of the details, but this expat has chosen to go with XG5 which offers 100 free on-net minutes, unlimited on-net SMSs, 15 off-net SMSs, and 3.5GB of data. To sign up, dial #8181#3#2# from your Cellcard phone.

The higher plans also seem like a good deal, with 11GB for $15, or 15GB for $20. Recently Metfone–which many use for home Internet with a data-only SIM and a USB 3G modem–has lowered their $20 data plan from 12GB to 10GB, which seems ludicrous considering the competition they are getting from Digi and Opennet, so it seems likely that those of us who are still going the USB 3G modem route will end up switching to Cellcard.

Cellcard
33 Sihanouk Blvd, Phnom Penh
T: 012 800 800
cellcard.com.kh

Happy new year from Cambodia!

Posted on January 1, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

To celebrate the new year, we’ve updated our ‘Getting Around by Tuk Tuk‘ page, a comprehensive guide to taking tuk tuks in Cambodia including prices, how to bargain (and when not to), give directions in Khmer, and just generally enjoy one of the best forms of transport in Southeast Asia.

We’re going to be updating other info around the site, so if there’s a feature you think could use a little refreshing, please drop us a line.

Snaps: One dollar haircut

Posted on December 30, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

A Cambodian barber plies his trade near Wat Ounalom.

This photograph was taken by recent arrival and photographer Lucas Veuve. Here’s the story behind the photo:

“Like many street in Phnom Penh, a few young men have set up barber chairs near Wat Ounalom, complete with ageing posters of Tom Cruise and Brad Pitt. They offer their skilled hair-cutting services for a dollar. My hairdresser was extremely attentive and thorough, but when I could hear the clippers rapidly running out of power and with no power socket in sight, I grew apprehensive. 

I imagined myself going home with half a haircut. However, the clippers soldiered on and my barber, a part-time university student, did a great job and even gave me a fresh cold towel at the end. What a nice touch! For $1, it’s an absolute bargain.”

Lucas Veuve is a freelance travel and humanitarian photographer based in Phnom Penh. For more information on his work, visit his website, Facebook or Twitter.

2013 Christmas dinners in Siem Reap

Posted on December 19, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

Looking for something more current? Check out our updated list of Siem Reap Christmas dinners for 2015.

Apologies for posting this so late, but there are lots of options for Christmas dinners in Siem Reap this year. As per usual, many of the major hotels are offering Christmas Eve and Christmas Day dinners, and some smaller budget establishments are, too. Here’s the Move to Cambodia round-up of the best Christmas dinners in Siem Reap for 2013. If you know of others, please leave details in the comment section.

Christmas in Cambodia

Don’t worry, we’ve still got Christmas in Siem Reap.

X Bar

Backpacker favorite X Bar is offering what appears to be the cheapest Christmas Eve dinner in the country, at only $6 per person. Dinner starts at 8:00 p.m. on December 24th and features stuffed and baked chicken breast with roasted potatoes, fresh vegetables and red wine gravy. There will be live music from 8 p.m. until midnight with Cambojam and the Xrays, and then live DJs will keep you going until Christmas morning (although it is unclear if Santa will fill your X-Bar stockings, apparently his reindeers are afraid of the DJs). You can pre-book your dinner via this Facebook event page, or by calling Rick at 017 363 590, or you can book in advance at the bar.

12 Sivutha Blvd (Opposite Pub Street)
T: 012 263 271
facebook.com/XBar

Molly Malone’s

Irish pub and restaurant Molly Malone’s is offering Christmas dinner special from 12 p.m. on December 25th for $28.75 per person, only a 25 cent rise from last year which is astounding considering the levels of inflation. You go, Molly Malone’s. This year’s menu starts off with a glass of mulled wine, then onto starters of cream of mushroom soup and a classic prawn cocktail, and then a choice of mains. Your options are a traditional roast turkey with sage and onion stuffing with potatoes two ways (roasted and mashed) cauliflower cheese, steamed seasonal vegetables, gravy and cranberry sauce or grilled Tasmanian salmon with hollandaise sauce and the same Christmassy sides as the turkey. For dessert they are offering a chocolate, raspberry and cream yule log. Kids get a two-course menu with a soft drink for $15.75. Reservations are suggested.

Corner of Pub Street and Sivutha Blvd, Siem Reap
T: 063 963 544; 063 674 0999mollymalonescambodia.com

Gigi Brasil

Gigi Brasil suggests you try a different sort of Christmas…the Brazilian sort. This means a churrasco-style dinner that consists of lots and lots and lots of grilled meats, including picanha and maminha (Brazilian-style beef), sausages and chicken wings and hearts. The meats will be accompanied by roasted corn and pineapple, skewered vegetables, garlic bread, salad, dessert and a glass of red one or a classic caipirinha. They’re serving it up on Christmas Eve from 6:30 p.m. until 9:30 p.m. and on Christmas Day from 12:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. for $35 per person.

546 Sala Kanseng Village, Siem Reap
T: 095 812 135
gigibrasil.com

Soria Moria Boutique Hotel

If you’re in the mood for a Scandinavian Christmas (and why wouldn’t you be?) Soria Moria Hotel is having a Christmas Eve celebration starting at 6 p.m. that will get you into the Scandinavian Christmas spirit. Did somebody say gløgg? We’ve heard good reports from those who have been in years past, so this seems like a good option. The dinner will be ham and pork belly served with potatoes, broccoli, carrots, sauerkraut & pease pudding and of course brown gravy sauce. There will also be potato salad, garden salad, scrambled eggs with Norwegian salmon, cured ham, egg halves, anchovies, and a selection of breads. For dessert there will be rice pudding with berry sauce, gingerbread and assorted Christmas cookies. And of course there will be free flow gløgg (gluhwein/Scandinavian mulled wine), soft drinks, beer and wine.

The night will also feature Christmas carols from children from Sangkheum Center for Children, games, and even a visit from Julenissen (Santa Claus). The price is $32 per person and includes a Christmas gift & a donation to the Sangkheum Center for Children. Children under 4 eat for free and children under 12 are half price.

Please RSVP by December 20 to mail@thesoriamoria.com

Wat Bo Road, Salakamrouk, Siem Reap
T: 063 964 768
thesoriamoria.com

Palate Angkor Restaurant and Bar

Palate is a new restaurant on the river opposite FCC and they’re having a Christmas Eve dinner for $35 per person.The five-course dinner starts off with seafood and mushroom spring rolls and chestnut soup with black chicken and asparagus, then a traditional Christmas turkey with honey-baked ham, brussels sprouts and porto wine gravy or sea bass fillet served with baby potatoes, English spinach and tom yam and coconut foam with a traditional Christmas pudding for dessert. Musician Jim Latt will be playing live music throughout. Reserve in advance by calling 063 955 252.

Acha Sva Road, Wat Bo Village, Siem Reap
T: 063 955 252
palateangkor.com

Il Forno

Il Forno is offering a Christmas dinner this year on the 24th, 25th and 26th.  They’re offering two menus, one from the land and one from the sea. The land menu features a starter of crespell with speck, radicchio and taleggio, then a pasta course of tortelloni di ricotta and spinach with white ragout and fillet mignon on crispy potatoes with porcini mushroom sauce as the main and chocolate bread pudding for dessert. The sea menu starts off with homemade blinis with Sicilian tuna tartare, then a pasta course of black and white ravioli with seafood and saffron sauce, then pan-fried seabass as the main with vanilla sauce and sweet potato mash and dragonfruit pannacotta with passionfruit reduction for dessert.  Both options are $50 and come with a glass of wine, and if you’d like to order items ala carte, that is also possible. Reserve in advance at 078 208 174. Walk-ins are welcome but spaces are not guaranteed.

The Lane, Siem Reap
T: 078 208 174

FCC Angkor

The FCC Angkor is offering a swankier affair in Siem Reap than at FCC Phnom Penh (in your face) on December 24th and 25th. Their set menu is $55++* per person and starts with a Champagne cocktail. The menu starts with canapes (smoked salmon, dill and cucumber on blinis and crisp pork belly with vanilla-infused apple sauce), starters of duck and chicken terrine en croute with foie gras and micro-salad and lemon and lime sorbet, then on to roast turkey with roasted vegetables and potatoes with all the trimmings and a cranberry jus, and baked Alaska and chocolate petits fours for dessert. Reserve by calling 063 760 283.

Pokambor Ave, next to the Royal Residence, Siem Reap
T: 063 760 283
fcccambodia.com/siemreap

Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor

The ever-popular Christmas Day brunch at Raffles Hotel is happening again this year, and those in the know advise getting there early — ie. before the festivities start at noon when Santa shows up and gives gifts to the kids. There’s a children’s choir that will be singing in the lobby and a pianist that will charm you with Christmas tunes for the duration. The buffet starts at noon and features a sushi and sashimi buffet, pastas, salad bar, a selection of Asian and international hot foods, carvery, cold cuts, cheeses, soups, and desserts (including a yule log). Basically the menu is very long and you’ll leave stuffed. Price is $40++ for adults, $26++ for kids 5-11 and free for kids under 5. Reserve in advance.

If you want to blow some cash on Christmas Eve, Raffles also has a comprehensive program that includes pre-dinner cocktails, a buffet dinner by the pool which will be filled with thousands of floating candles, a Khmer cultural show, a children’s choir singing Christmas carols, and an appearance by Santa who will bring gifts for the kids. The buffet will feature a barbecue station and no less than a whole suckling pig and whole chickens on spits. Cost for adults is $105++ and kids 5-11 are $55++ (and it appears that kids under five eat for free). It is highly recommended to make a reservation 24hrs prior to the event by calling 063 963 888 or emailing dining.siemreap@raffles.com
.
1 Charles de Gaulle Avenue
T: 063 963 888dining.grandhotel@raffles.com

Le Meridian Angkor

Le Meridian Angkor is having a ‘Christmas Eve Gala Dinner‘ that includes an international buffet, live band, songs, Christmas carols by a local choir, and a Cambodian cultural dance performance.  The spread promises to be lavish, with more than a dozen types of appetizers and salads, a falafal station and a moutabal station(seriously), chilled soups, a salmon station, crab cakes, foie gras, pate, traditional turkey with stuffing, half a dozen other mains, a pasta station, a selection of Khmer dishes and a barbecue station. For dessert there’s a Yule log station with no less than four types of Yule Logs, a creme brulee station, a macaradone station, tarts (the dessert), a chocolate station, an eclair station, and a gingerbread house.

Price is $ 90++ for adults and US$ 45++ for kids 4-11 and includes free flow soft drinks, water, chilled fruit juice, local beer, tea or coffee, and house wine. They also have a special rates for residents of Cambodia at $65 per person, and it is suggested that you make a reservation in advance.

Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay Dang Kum, Siem Reap
T: 063 963 900
lemeridienangkor.com

There are a few more places including the Victoria Angkor Resort and Tangram Garden offering Christmas dinner that you can find more details about on this thread in the Siem Reap Expats and Locals Facebook group.

*All of the hotel prices are ++, which means they don’t include various taxes and VAT. Expect to pay an extra 10% above the listed price.