Review: Hanami Buffet, Phnom Penh

We’ve gotten reports that Hanami is now closed. Stay tuned to see what pops up in that location next!

If you’re looking to eat sushi and pizza until you’re uncomfortably full without breaking the bank, look no further than Hanami Buffet in BKK1. It’s not the best Japanese food you’ll get in town, but at only $6.50 for an all-you-can-eat lunch for four hours of non-stop pigging out, it’s the most Japanese food you’ll get (for this price, anyway).

sushi at Hanami Buffet Phnom Penh

Sushi, pizza and much more (than you can eat) at Hanami Buffet in BKK1.

There’s been lots of expat chatter about Hanami Buffet. Not surprising, because the array of food is pretty great. They have a pizza and pasta bar, where you can order mysterious pizzas such as the “curry taste” pizza, which was doused in sweet Japanese curry and corn. It was sort of disgusting but strangely addictive. The pastas are also somewhat disappointing but oddly compelling. We tried a salmon pasta that was bland except for the liberal chunks of salmon, an ingredient you don’t expect to see on a cheap buffet menu in Cambodia. It may have been flavorless, but didn’t stop us from finishing it, though.

Hanami also have a sushi carousel that had surprisingly decent sushi options. Much of it was the rice and cooked fish variety, but there were also pieces of salmon and one could easily get their money’s worth just sitting by the sushi track and hoovering piece after piece.

Noodle soup bar at Hanami Buffet

Hanami’s noodle soup bar. Get slurping.

There’s also a noodle soup bar with loads of fresh vegetables and soup options, a congee station and several other areas featuring different types of dishes. Most of the cuisine is Japanese, with a focus on Chinese and Japanese homestyle and izakaya dishes with lots of deep-fried and snacky goodies, including takoyaki (Japanese octopus ball), tempura, and deep-fried chicken feet that make the $1.50 free-flow Angkor beer option seem like a good choice.

Finish up with a selection of desserts, including cake and chocolate mousse. If you don’t feel sick by the time you’ve finished, you’re doing it wrong.

Hanami Buffet Phnom Penh

Hanami brings together the Japanese and Khmer cultures in a glorious celebration of gluttony.

The regular prices are $9 for lunch and $21 for dinner, but they are currently having a special with lunch for $6.50 and dinner for $16. Meals includes free-flow soda and tea, and for an extra $1.50, you can add free-flow Angkor beer.

Hanami Buffet certainly does not have the best Japanese food in town, but in terms of value for money, it can’t be beat. Get there relatively early for the best selection and be prepared to wash your hands before entering (don’t worry, they have purpose-built sinks for just this reason).

Hanami Buffet

Open daily, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Corner of Mao Tse Tung Blvd and Street 63, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 070 389 100
hanamirestaurant.eoi.com

How to find housing in Battambang

So you’ve decided to move to Battambang. Welcome! Be warned it may require patience to find a home that will suit your needs, as the best places tend to be passed from expat to expat like family heirlooms. That said, there are some great houses and apartments to be had in Battambang.

Battambang house rental

Wondering how to make the move to Battambang? Here’s how to find a place to live.

In terms of location, your main two considerations are how close to the center of town you want to be, and which side of the river you want to be on. The closer to Psar Nath, the more central the location, and accordingly more expensive.

Battambang is a small city, so nothing is far, but most restaurants and markets are located on the west side of the Sangker River, and while nowhere is immune from flooding in the rainy season, the flooding can be a bit worse on the east side.

Studio apartments without a kitchen can be found for as little as $50 a month, while a one-bedroom apartment with a kitchen in the center of town goes for between $100-$150 per month.

Entire houses can be rented for between $100-$300, depending on location and amenities.

Battambang wooden house

Start dreaming about your future. This Khmer wooden house would go for about $250 a month in Battambang.

For example, a one-bedroom, one-bathroom wooden house with Khmer-style kitchen, air conditioning and hot water (pictured) goes for around $250, while a Khmer-style shophouse with one bedroom, two bathrooms, and bucket toilets, no air conditioning, hot water or kitchen, is around $120 per month.

Not every home has air conditioning or hot water, so if those amenities are important to you, be sure to ask if the home has them. Very few homes have washing machines and even fewer have ovens, so if you want these appliances, you may need to buy them yourself.

There are three main ways people find housing in Battambang.

Battambang Connect

Battambang Connect is a Google Group that serves as a forum to connect those in and around Battambang. Register as a member and you can post that you are looking for housing and see any ‘for rent’ postings from other members.

Realtor

Another option is Battambangimmo, which serves as a realtor, but fair warning that they do not often have many listings, largely because most homes are found through….

Word of mouth

Many apartments get snatched before they have the chance to be posted on Battambang Connect or listed with a realtor. The majority of expats find housing through others, so make friends with some expats when you arrive.

Go to popular expat hangouts like Kinyei or Jaan Bai (both popular with the English crowd), Choco l’Art (popular with the French crowd) or Here Be Dragons (popular with whomever’s around) and advertise the fact that you’re looking for a place to live. Someone will know someone who is leaving, and be able to give you tips on what apartments may be available.

Don’t be too shy to tell your colleagues that you’re looking. Khmer colleagues in particular may know of cheap places.

If you’re really stuck, or in Battambang for a short period of time and want to find something immediately, Chhaya Hotel has serviced apartments that include kitchenettes and balconies for $300 a month and Coconut House have rooms with kitchenettes for between $150 and $270 a month.

Good luck!

Kinyei

Street 1.5, Battambang
T: 017 860 003
kinyei.org

Jaan Bai

Street 2, Battambang
T: 086 505 954
cambodianchildrenstrust.org/jaan-bai

Choco l’Art Café

Street 117, Battambang [map]
T: 010 661 617

Here Be Dragons

Street 159D, Battambang
T: 089 264 895
herebedragonsbattambang.com

Chhaya Hotel

118 Street 3, Battambang
T: 053 952 170
chhayahotel.com

Coconut House

Street 300, Battambang
T: 053 665 5447; 012 955 447

Cambodia scams: The powdered milk scam

If you’ve been to Siem Reap’s Pub Street, undoubtedly you’ve been approached by a bedraggled young mother or child holding an empty baby bottle and toting a sleepy-looking infant. “The baby is hungry,” they plead. “I’m not asking for money, just formula for my baby.”

Powdered milk scam Siem Reap

Got scammed? Don’t fall for the powdered milk scam in Cambodia.

Every night, well-intentioned tourists fall for this scam, thinking that the $30 canister of formula they are buying is going to feed that drowsy baby, allowing both she and her caretaker to head home. Unfortunately, that’s not really what’s going on. All of the formula that’s purchased is promptly returned, with the proceeds being split with the store (Huy Meng Minimart under X Bar on Sivatha Blvd at the bottom of Pub Street is a favorite).

Now you may be reading this and wondering what’s the big deal? This desperately poor family is getting some much-needed income, so why does it matter if they trade the formula for cash?

The truth is much darker. Local expats speculate that the baby-beggars are run by a mafia of sorts. If you get a cup of coffee on Pub Street in the early evening before sunset, you’ll see seven or eight young women descend on the street at the exact same time, each of them carrying a bleary-eyed baby slung to her hip, many of them blowing cigarette smoke in their faces. Women don’t always carry the same baby, indicating that the babies are merely rented or borrowed for the night. Many of the babies are carried by older children and the babies are uncharacteristically docile.

Siem Reap milk scam

Children and women carrying babies all descend on Pub Street at the same time, carrying half-empty bottles.

Local child protection organizations say that they haven’t seen evidence that the babies are drugged, but it seems entirely possible in order to assure their pliability and make them seem more pathetic and sympathetic. Personally, there’s only one baby I’ve seen on Pub Street that seems alert, the rest are scarily mellow, especially when one considers the fact that they are there for up to 12 hours at a time.

Expats who have tried to warn tourists that are falling for the scam have been threatened with violence. When a young girl carrying a baby asked me to buy her milk recently and I declined, she scratched and pinched my arm. It’s not hard to imagine the desperation these young women must feel–after all, they likely need to pay for the baby they are renting and if the mafia theory is correct, their handlers may be watching to make sure they bring in enough money each night.

For tourists, handing over $20 or $30 to buy a can of formula is a quick, feel-good experience. Just a few days ago I saw a tourist taking photos of himself posing with a canister of formula and the bedraggled street kid he was buying it for. He probably went straight back to his hotel to post about the experience on Facebook, and no doubt received an appreciative response from his friends, who were just as clueless about the reality of the situation as he.

powdered milk Cambodia

This baby formula has probably already been bought and returned several times today.

But there are more reasons than just losing their money that tourists shouldn’t be participating in this scam. For one, think of the babies. These babies are likely being drugged, kept up all night and even being deprived of food to make them look more desperate. Toddlers that are swaddled for hours upon hours long after the age of infanthood do not learn to walk properly. And tourists are the ones supplying the demand for these abused babies. If no one was willing to reward these scammers, they would have no motivation to keep these babies on the street.

“The scam is a albeit slightly more lucrative version of begging,” James Sutherland of Friends International, explains. “Poor mothers and vulnerable infants are always at risk on the streets, and scams like these keep them there, day in, day out.”

Children are also used in this scam, often toting the babies themselves. Because they have more value as beggars or scammers, they are kept on the streets all night, instead of sleeping and going to school in the mornings. When poor families have financial incentive to keep their children out of school–especially when there are addiction or gambling problems in the home–many choose to keep their children on the street.

Cambodia milk scam

Just say no to sleepy babies in Siem Reap.

Recently in Thailand a gang of children selling roses on a busy nightlife street were discovered to be trafficked, sold or rented by their families and then never heard from again. It’s hard not to think that if tourists just said “no,” this market in child beggars would not be so prolific.

Buying formula does not help these babies, it does quite the opposite. Buying powdered milk (or, indeed, buying anything from children on the street) only gives their parents reason to keep those children on the street. In this case, where it appears that a much more sinister situation exists than families merely begging for money, you must understand that by participating in any way, you are contributing to the abuse of these children.

“We believe that well-meaning people should not perpetuate that cycle, but should rather direct their attention to getting families like these off the streets and out of poverty and that can be done by supporting organizations working to do that, with education, training and income generation programs,” James Sutherland of Friends International, a local child-protection organization, told us.

What should you do if asked to buy formula for a baby?

Just say NO. Tell your travel companions and guesthouse about the scam. The more people that know about it, the less prevalent it will become. Familiarize yourself with Friends International’s ChildSafe Traveler Tips, who suggest that you not give to child beggars, buy postcards or items from children selling on the street or visit orphanages in Cambodia.

Support young expat writers on Beacon

Expats move to Cambodia for a plethora of reasons: to set up new businesses, teach English, even retire. But the expats that move to Cambodia to pursue their creative dreams are the ones closest to my heart, if only because they are setting themselves up for a long, hard slog. That’s why I was delighted to see that there are two young writers flogging their work on Beacon Reader, a new site that allows readers to directly sponsor a writer’s work. This is exciting news for writers, who usually have editors (who answer to advertisers) act as the gatekeeper of their work before it reaches an audience. Beacon sidesteps that system, and allows readers to directly support the writers they want to read.

Allison Jane Smith Cambodia

Help support Allison Jane Smith to write more about Cambodia.

“Beacon is great because it allows readers to support writers and journalists directly, and also lets them provide direct feedback to writers on what types of stories they find interesting,” Battambang-based expat Allison Jane Smith explains. “This makes for more diverse topics and types of writing than can often be found in mainstream publications.”

You may already be familiar with Allison Jane Smith’s work on this blog, where she has been bringing us the best of Battambang. Allison is a 25-year-old Canadian writer and poet based in Battambang, where she spends her time writing narrative non-fiction about life in Cambodia, including this recent piece where she writes about what it’s like to be white…no, really white, blindingly “squawking egret” white, in Cambodia.

Allison’s work on Beacon sidesteps the usual “blah blah genocide” narrative that many writers feel compelled to tell when they write about Cambodia. Instead she writes about topics like attaining nirvana in Cambodian traffic, Cambodia’s best barista competition, and about her experiences with Pchum Ben, the religious ceremony that feeds dead spirits.

“I write about Cambodia because while it is a fascinating and complex country, it is often portrayed in a simplistic way to foreign audiences,” Allison explains. “I write stories about Cambodia that go beyond these simple narratives.”

Allison posts new stories about life in Cambodia every few weeks (and has a new one going up today). To get access to Allison’s work, you can sign up to Beacon for as little as $5 a month, which will also give you access to every other story on Beacon.

Sponsor Allison Jane Smith’s stories about Cambodia

Faine Greenwood is a 25-year-old American who was only able to tear herself away from her life in Cambodia when offered the chance to study journalism at Stanford. She has lived in Cambodia off and on since 2008, and spent her time here wryly observing the expat scene. She’s been putting together a comic series that’s a satiric look at expat life in Phnom Penh called ‘Into the Wild.’

Faine Greewood Cambodia

Doesn’t this sound eerily familiar? Sponsor Faine Greenwood to finish her expat comic series.

“Cambodia’s remarkably biodiverse population of foreign transplants inspired me to draw a guide that would help newcomers identify the different types,” Faine told me via email. “Also, I like making fun of people by drawing pictures of them.”

Faine already has a few expat comics on her website, but through Beacon you can sponsor her for as little as $5 a month to finish the entire illustrated field guide to the global expatriate community. It’s sure to be hilarious, and at the higher sponsorship levels she’ll even send you a comic of you as your own expat type.

Sponsor Faine Greenwood’s expat comic ‘Into the Wild’

Snaps: Aerobics at dawn

Riverside aerobics at dawn in Phnom Penh

By the riverside every morning at dawn, men and women gather to exercise in the cooler air.

This photograph was taken by Brazilian expat photographer Bernardo Salce. Here’s the story behind the photo:

“I’ve been living in Phnom Penh for two months now and my favorite spot in the morning is still the riverside. As a photographer, I really appreciate the special light we get at dawn. It’s always fun to take photos of the outdoor aerobics classes. People of all ages, shapes and sizes exercise in the cool air and relaxed atmosphere. For only 1000 riel per session, the aerobics are led by an instructor with an over-sized boom box. On top of that you get to see a pretty good sunrise over the Tonle Sap…. But it would be cliche to take photos of a sunrise, wouldn’t it?”

Bernardo Salce is a photographer based in Phnom Penh. He’s recently started a photography and video agency, Bumuo Pictures. You can follow them on Twitter and Facebook.

Photos from Poipet: Return of Cambodian migrants from Thailand

Yesterday afternoon I traveled back from Thailand through Poipet and took these photographs of Cambodian workers returning en masse from Thailand. (Here’s the link to the photos I took in Poipet on Sunday). It’s unclear whether or not they have been forcibly removed by the Thai junta or are voluntarily leaving out of fear–there are rumors circulating within the Cambodian community that those who do not leave voluntarily will be shot–but seeing the road to Aranyaprathet in Thailand full of caged trucks packed with frightened Cambodians was distressing to say the least. These photos are from the Aranyaprathet/Poipet border where the Thai trucks were dropping the workers off and the Cambodian trucks were picking them up to return them home.

Returning Cambodians from Thailand

After declaring martial law in Thailand, the Thai junta began rounding up Cambodian migrants and deporting them. Most were transported across the border in caged Thai police trucks.

Returning Cambodians from Thailand

Officials at the border estimate that more than 180,000 Cambodians left Thailand to return to Cambodia in the last week. The CNRP puts that number at more than 500,000.

Returning Cambodians from Thailand

The Thai junta denies that there has been a crackdown, and has said that the thousands of Cambodians being taken to Poipet are doing so voluntarily.

Returning Cambodians from Thailand

The Cambodian government has responded by sending 150 trucks per day to Poipet to pick up the returning workers. Aid groups say that while 150 trucks have been promised, only about 120 per day have materialized.

Returning Cambodians from Thailand

Today, the Thai junta have said that they will allow Cambodian workers back into Thailand, as long as they hold proper work permits and are not undocumented.

Returning Cambodians from Thailand

Most Cambodian workers in Thailand are undocumented. The Cambodian government has offered free vocational training courses to the returning workers, but many say they will attempt to return to Thailand when they can, due to higher wages.

Returning Cambodians from Thailand

Aid workers are concerned that the massive influx of unemployed Cambodians will result in major problems in the coming weeks.

Returning Cambodians from Thailand

The Cambodian military is overseeing the return of the workers from Poipet to their home provinces.

Returning Cambodians from Thailand

A rambutan seller hawks his wares to the workers on one of the trucks heading out to the provinces. Many of the returned Cambodian workers have been on the road for days, often without food.

Returning Cambodians from Thailand

A woman hopefully tries to sell toys and balloons in the middle of the makeshift camp, with very little success.

Returning Cambodians from Thailand

Workers gather information about the returnees home provinces and direct them onto the proper trucks, so they can complete their long journey home.

Returning Cambodians from Thailand

The Cambodian Red Cross was on hand yesterday, as were many faith-based NGOs, offering supplies and services to the returned workers.

Returning Cambodians from Thailand

It is believed that the Thai junta is using illegal migrants as a scapegoat for the flagging Thai economy, according to analysts.

Returning Cambodians from Thailand

Today the Cambodia Daily is reporting that the flow of migrants through Poipet has slowed. I saw dozens of trucks yesterday, about the same as on Sunday, which was the busiest day according to reports.

Scenes from Poipet, where deported Cambodian workers wait to be returned home

Photographs taken this morning in Poipet (on the Cambodian side of the Thailand-Cambodia border) where thousands of Cambodian workers deported from Thailand have gathered, waiting to be returned to their home provinces by the Cambodian government.

Cambodia poipet workers

Trucks are pouring into Poipet with deported workers, and just as quickly the Cambodian government is trying to get them back to the provinces.

Cambodia poipet workers

CNRP estimates that 500,000 Cambodians have been deported from Thailand, while the Ministry of Labor puts the number at 43,000.

Cambodia poipet workers

The Cambodian government has deployed 150 trucks to bring the deported workers back to their home provinces.

Cambodia poipet workers

Poipet City governor Ngor Mengchruon is quoted in the Cambodia Daily as saying that Cambodian authorities are overwhelmed by the number of migrant workers arriving back in the country.

Cambodia poipet workers

Dealing with newly arrived Cambodians from the Thai border.

Cambodia poipet workers

Eager to not have a refugee camp on their hands, the Cambodian government has worked quickly to get the deported workers back to their families.

Poipet Cambodian refugees SIM cards

Crisis situation? Metfone is there giving away free SIM cards.

Cambodia poipet workers

Military police overseeing the newly returned workers from Thailand.

Cambodia poipet workers

Many Cambodian workers paid large sums to be returned to Poipet, in fear that they would be killed if they did not.

Cambodia poipet workers

Cambodian military trucks were on hand to bring the Khmer workers from Poipet into Cambodia.

Cambodia poipet workers

Most left Thailand with bags, boxes or just the clothes on their backs.

Cambodia poipet workers

Trucks heading to different parts of Cambodia were offered to the newly arrived deportees.

Cambodia poipet workers

It has been reported that as many as nine Cambodians have been killed during the deportations.

Cambodia poipet workers

There are reports of Khmers being asked for bribes by the Thai military police. On the Cambodian side in Poipet, the situation seems relatively orderly and bribe-free.

Review: Cambodia Angkor Air

Cambodia Angkor Air may have a mixed reputation with tourists, but their performance has been steadily improving as they expand their network to many new international locations. If you’re considering flying Cambodia Angkor Air, there are a few things to consider.

Cambodia Angkor Air

Cambodia Angkor Air: Cambodia’s national flag carrier.

The Cambodian government has a 51% share in Cambodia Angkor Air and Vietnam Airlines has the remaining 49%. Vietnam Airlines is responsible for maintaining their fleet, which are relatively new and clean. The flight attendants are professional and international tickets to places like Bangkok and Shanghai are very reasonably priced.

Cambodia Angkor Air has a small fleet of just six planes (A321s for international flights and smaller ATR72s for domestic routes). They’ll be adding another two planes this year, bringing the total to eight. And this is the cause of most of the complaints about Cambodia Angkor Air. Because they have so few planes, if there’s a problem with one they don’t have any spare planes to fly in its place, and flights are regularly cancelled or delayed.

However, this seems to have leveled off in recent months, and there are less complaints about unscheduled delays or cancellations. I’ve flown a half dozen times recently on Cambodia Angkor Air, both internationally and domestically. Earlier this year I had a flight to Bangkok that was delayed by four hours, but they let me know via email a full two days in advance. Despite the warning, had I been using this flight as a positioning flight for a connecting international flight, I would have been pretty stuck. So I wouldn’t recommend taking them if you have another connecting flight, or give yourself several hours of padding (in this case if I had needed to arrive by the same time, I could have traded my Phnom Penh to Bangkok ticket for a Phnom Penh to Siem Reap to Bangkok flight for extra hassle, but no charge).

Cambodia Angkor Air A321

Cambodia uses big A321s for international flights.

Internationally, Cambodia Angkor Air flies to Shanghai and Guangzhou, China; Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam; and Bangkok, Thailand. The international fares are quite competitive, and often are the lowest price available on these routes. Even better, if you’re looking to buy a ticket on short notice, Cambodia Angkor Air don’t raise their rates as the flight date draws closer, so they’ll often beat the competition by $100 or more a day or two before the flight. Another plus is that because they don’t raise their rates, you can change most flights for a $10 or $20 fee and no additional charges. Try that with Air Asia!

Domestically is another story. Because there’s no competition, fares between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and Siem Reap and Sihanoukville can be artificially high, and you’ll pay more to get from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap than you will from Phnom Penh to Bangkok, despite the fact that Siem Reap is a much shorter trip. Siem Reap to Sihanoukville on Cambodia Angkor Air costs between $230 and $300 return and Phnom Penh to Siem Reap traditionally costs between $200 to $300 return. Now that there is competition in the form of Bassaka Air and Cambodia Bayon Airlines, prices can go as low as $140 return.

Tickets for Cambodia Angkor Air’s flights between Cambodia and Vietnam can be purchased on the Vietnam Airlines site, which is easier to navigate than CAA’s own. For other routes, tickets can be purchased through any of the big hotels in Cambodia, at local travel agents or on their website cambodiaangkorair.com. Both have potential problems. Most travel agents in Cambodia won’t take credit cards over the phone, they need to run them through their machine in the office. This means that those who are not in the country need to purchase tickets online.

Cambodia Angkor Air ATR72

Cambodia Angkor Air uses smaller ATR72s for domestic journeys.

However, many report problems with purchasing tickets on the Cambodia Angkor Air website. There are a couple of common problems. When booking, the box asks for middle name, first name then surname. If you are having issues making with your booking, ignore these instructions and enter your name exactly as it is on your passport.

Another issue is that Verified by Visa or your credit card company many deny the charge, but Cambodia Angkor Air will just give you a generic message that says “We’re sorry, we are unable to verify your form of payment. Please select another form of payment and try again.” When I got this message I called my credit card company who said they weren’t blocking the charge. I tried again and again and only after noticing that the screen flashed onto the Verified by Visa logo did I realize that Verified by Visa was rejecting the charge. A couple of phone calls to them and I was able to make the booking.

Finally, if you do book with Cambodia Angkor Air check your flight status ahead of time and leave a lot of padding if you are bookending the flight with another flight. Also be aware that you may be asked to show the credit card used to book your ticket when you check in.

In summary, I think Cambodia Angkor Air offers excellent value on international flights, and many will be surprised by the level of service they receive on both domestic and international routes. However, customers who have tight schedules should be warned that while most flights run on time, not all do.

Cambodia Angkor Air

cambodiaangkorair.com
206A Norodom Boulevard, Phnom Penh
T: 023 6666 786; 023 6666 788

17D Omkhun Street (same street as Angkor Mart), Siem Reap
T: 063 969 268; 063 636 3666