The “new and improved” Bokor Mountain

Bokor Mountain remains one of the main tourist sights around Kampot. Formerly a French colonial hill station resort and site of a royal summer vacation home, modern Bokor has made itself much easier to access and has more “attractions.” While many claim that Bokor has lost all appeal to tourists, just scratching the surface one can see a picture of past and present Cambodia.

Bokor Hill Station

Even on sunny days the Bokor Hill Station ghost town is covered in a gloomy mist.

As with many historic areas around Cambodia, Bokor Mountain and many of the old buildings on it have been restored rather than preserved, and rights to develop the land nearby have been sold to foreign business owners. However, the new road means that visiting Bokor is possible not only during the Water Festival, but year round.

Bokor Mountain is about 37km from Kampot. A taxi will set you back around $40 and minivan tours can be had for $10 per person, but the easiest way to get there is by moto. To get there from Kampot town center, go across the New Bridge and go straight through the roundabout (second right-hand turn for those unfamiliar with roundabout orientation). It is a straight shot on National Road 3 until you reach the checkpoint and park entrance. On a moto, you’ll pay 2,000 riel per vehicle to enter. Make sure to keep the stub for the checkpoint at the top of the hill!

Bokor Hill Station

The new road means that Bokor Hill Station is accessible year-round.

If you are on a moto and didn’t fill up in Kampot, we recommend getting a liter or two at the fuel station just outside of the gate — we saw prices jump 50% on the mountain and places to fuel up can be a bit far between. It is about 29km from the base of the mountain to the old Casino (the 60km round trip is about a liter and a half on your typical 2011 100cc Honda Wave), plus another 12km or so each way if you are visiting the waterfall as well.

Beware of reckless drivers, slick wet sections of road, and pockets of fog and rain that can cluster on the side of the mountain on your ride up. Even if the day is clear down in Kampot, weather going up and on top of Bokor Mountain is unpredictable. After taking on the seven or so hairpin turns on Road 32 up the mountain, you will know you’ve hit smoother riding when you see a giant statue on a small hill close to the road on your right. Lok Yeay Mao is a deity to protect travelers, and this is the biggest and highest shrine to her. On the opposite side of the road, there is a small pull-off area and an old brick and concrete structure. This is the remains of King Norodom Sihanouk’s modest “Black Palace.”

Bokor Mountain casino

The new Bokor Mountain casino is an architectural curiosity in its own right.

When you get to the checkpoint at the top, there is a traffic circle — take a right to the Popokvil Waterfall, the Japanese Farm, and the field of One Hundred Rice Fields; and left to the new casino, the ghostly Bokor Palace Hotel, the Catholic Church and Wat Sampov Pram. Google Maps is not particularly helpful on Bokor Mountain, but there are signs pointing to many of the main points of interest, and Thansur Bokor Resort has a helpful map.

Popokvil Waterfall is literally the end of the road (OK, you can go about 50m further to an empty guard shack where you realize you need to turn around). Oddly, the parking area is dominated by a billboard for Thansur Bokor Highland Resort, but if you walk in, past the large mint green food area on the left, you will see the river hitting wide, flat blocks of rock that make up the two-tiered falls. There are no official paths here, hike around at your own risk. The falls are most impressive during rainy season.

Bokor Mountain waterfall

The waterfalls at Bokor Mountain are most impressive during rainy season.

Coming back towards the roundabout from the waterfall, if you take a right at the big turnoff for Japanese Farm (private, no visitors) and carry on for about 5km you will see the 100 Rice Fields on your left. We didn’t see any official sign marking the site, although we were staring through rain and thick fog (apologies for lack of photo). The 100 Rice Fields are not really rice fields of course. You can see those anywhere in Cambodia. They are a rock formation with grass growing in between the straight-line crevices, allegedly making it look like an aerial view of a bunch of rice fields. If you have time to kill on the mountain or want to take this road as a back way to Wat Sampov Pram and/or the 500 Rice Fields Meditation Area.

Wat Sampov Pram is named for five rounded rocks that are said to resemble boats (sampov) that stand near the path between the buddha statue and the main wat. During our visit, the lower parts of the compound were being renovated, but we had great views around the small pagoda covered in colorful lichens (remember to take your shoes off if you want to go inside) and down the escarpment to the ocean. If you took a left at the roundabout, you can also get to Wat Sampov Pram by turning right just before the Chinese pagoda after the New Casino and following the road past several rows of new shophouse/apartment construction.

Bokor Hill Station church

The old Catholic Church is a reminder of Bokor Hill Station’s French colonial past.

Further down this left arm of the road, you will find the Old Catholic Church on the righthand side. The building is striking and although now mostly empty save some modern offerings, has a stillness that can be serene or creepy depending on the weather. Off to the left and behind the church is a path up a small hill; there are some large rocks to climb back here so be careful if knees, ankles or general mobility is an issue. At the top is the remains of the floor of a structure and fragments of old tiles, but on a clear day the view down to the coast is beautiful.

Bokor Palace Hotel

The old Bokor Palace Hotel figured prominently in the Matt Dillon movie City of Ghosts.

A few more kilometers brings you to the Bokor Palace Hotel, also known as the old casino (right side, parking on the left). You can wander through the old corridors, grand halls and winding stairs and imagine what it must have looked like with chandeliers, huge windows and ornate furnishings. Some of the walls (interior and exterior) have been patched up, but it retains that sense that “things happened here.” Off of the courtyard behind the old casino is a low wall and, yes, more great views down the steep side of the mountain to the plains and rice flats below and out to sea.

The top of Bokor Mountain is often misty and much cooler than the area below, so we recommend taking a raincoat or at least long sleeves, even if it is not rainy season.

Wine and cheese in Phnom Penh (…and then there was one)

Expat life is associated with a peculiar kind of nostalgia; every change comes with twice as many complaints about the way things “used to be.” For pampered expats in Cambodia’s capital, this nostalgia is particularly strong around wine and cheese nights.

wine and cheese phnom penh

Gone are the halycon days of affordable wine and cheese nights at the InterCon.

For several years, the flagship “wine and cheese night” was immodestly hosted by the Intercontinental Hotel on the last Wednesday of every month. A selection of imported wines and cheeses that could not be found at local grocery stores were set out, as well as fancy nibbles like smoked salmon and raclette with ham, potatoes, and gherkins. For a long time, this two-and-a-half hour event was a relatively affordable $25, making it the place to be seen and catch up with expats across the spectrum from Embassy workers to teachers. In 2013, the price started creeping up to $35, and the crowd thinned considerably. Finally, the Intercon’s monthly wine and cheese night came to an end in December 2014, in favor of less regular “Wine, cheese and All That Jazz.” But at $45++ for only three hours to get your fill, the sparkle was off. The most recent “All that Jazz” was in March 2015 and no others have been announced since (we’ve been checking).

Short lived and too good to be true: $20 unlimited wine and cheese at Khema.

Short lived and too good to be true: $20 unlimited wine and cheese at Khema.

Khema in Aeon Mall was the new hope of wine and cheese lovers in Phnom Penh (and one of the only reasons besides the movie theater and Japanese dollar stores we brave the parking lots at Aeon). Khema offered a $20 wine, cheese, and charcuterie night every Thursday, and rightfully suggested phoning ahead to make reservations after word got out in its first few weeks. Although the only wine on offer was their Hobnob “house” red or white, the staff were generally friendly and attentive about refills of wine, bread and meat, and cheese. Unfortunately, this also seems to have been unsustainable, as Khema Aeon has closed. Khema is to have a second incarnation on Streets 51 and 242 in the ground floor of the Aruneas Hotel (across the street from International SOS Clinic) with a deli and wine and cheese offerings, but it remains to be seen whether the $20 wine and cheese nights will return in the new location.

phnom penh wine and cheese nights

The latest wine and cheese night may not be free-flow, but it’s ON A BOAT.

New on the scene is a cheese and charcuterie boat cruise aboard the Kanika on Wednesday evenings for $20. You can request either a mixed meat and cheese board, or just one or the other each time. Drinks are not included, but the house red was decent and $4 per glass, and draft beers and cocktails are also available from the bar onboard. We found the staff a little slow the whole hour and forty-five minute boat ride allowed only two rounds of cheese, meat, or cheese-and-charcuterie but the selection was generous and very tasty and our feedback about the service seemed constructively received so look forward to great bang for your buck here. The meats are from French-Khmer butcher and charcutier La Tradicion and the cheeses are imported from France. The Kanika leaves from the tour-boat section of Riverside (across from Wat Phnom) at 7 p.m., and reservations are recommended.

Have we somehow missed an underground Phnom Penh all-you-can-eat-and-drink wine and cheese event? Please let us know! Until then, we will keep buying our wine and cheese retail (stay tuned for a post on where to buy the best cheese and charcuterie in Phnom Penh).

Kanika Boat

Sisowath Quay, north of Street 94 intersection, Phnom Penh
T: 017 915 812; 089 848 959
facebook.com/kanikaboat

Dual pricing in Cambodia: the excuses debunked

Dual pricing based on race is very common in Cambodia, from the bus companies who charge white faces more to the hospitals that have one rate for Khmers and another for foreigners. Even the government-owned airline has one fare for Cambodians and another, much higher fare for everyone else. This is frustrating on many levels, not least when it’s foreign-owned businesses that are perpetuating dual pricing. Here are some of the most frequently cited arguments in favor of dual pricing — debunked.

dual pricing cambodia

At fancy hospitals there is one price for foreigners and one price for Cambodians. Even with the reduced rate, care is out of reach for poor Cambodians.

But Cambodians are poor

It’s true that Cambodians, by and large, are poor. And it’s also true that most expats are better off than most rural Cambodians. But it’s important to remember how outdated is the oversimplification that Cambodians are poor and Westerners are rich. These days the streets of Phnom Penh are clogged with gas-guzzling Lexus SUVs, and they are driven by rich Khmers, not Westerners. Perhaps just as surprising, there are Western expats sleeping on those very same streets.

Pricing based on race is a blunt instrument, and one that has failed. This failure grows more apparent as the Khmer riche get richer and the average expat is no longer on a generous relocation package — these days, expats are just as likely to work a “regular” job as anyone else. The wealthiest 1 percent in Cambodia is made up not of Westerners, but rather of the Khmer elite and (some) Asian expats. While most expats are solidly middle class, they are still leagues behind the Khmer upper class and elite, financially speaking. And much of Cambodia’s dual pricing benefits the Khmer upper and middle class and has no impact on the lives of the poor; you won’t find subsistence farmers getting a price break on yoga classes or on flights to Bangkok. These benefits go to those who are already privileged and do nothing for those who are truly in need.

Dual pricing is based on nationality, not on race

First off, Cambodian nationality is, for the most part, based on race (non-Vietnamese minority tribes are the exception). Any child of a Cambodian mother is granted Cambodian citizenship, regardless of where he or she is born. The child of non-Cambodians, though born and raised in Cambodia, is not granted Cambodian citizenship. Ethnically Vietnamese families who have lived in Cambodia for generations are, for all intents and purposes, stateless as far as the Cambodian government is concerned. So the argument that the dual-pricing system is not racist because it is based on nationality is flawed, because there is no attainable path to Cambodian citizenship for non-Cambodians (and I don’t call paying a $50,000 “facilitation fee” attainable).

Moreover, non-Cambodian Asians often benefit from the dual pricing plan, paying the local rate even when they don’t speak much Khmer and are citizens of Western countries. In practice, actual nationality seems unimportant; looking Khmer matters more. Khmer-Americans are also given the “local” price by many businesses, whether or not they have Cambodian passports.

dual pricing cambodia

Airlines one price for Cambodians and another price for non-Cambodians.

But tourists should subsidize things like national parks for the locals

I don’t disagree, but there are other, more sensible ways to accomplish this. In the Philippines, I went to national attractions that had one price for locals and one price for tourists — and anyone with a long-stay visa was counted as a local. In Cambodia, on the other hand, anyone who looks like a Cambodian gets the local price, even if they’re tourists, while long-time residents who don’t look Cambodian are charged as foreigners. Thus Americans with one Cambodian parent are given free passes to the Angkor Archaeological Park, even if they’ve never set foot in the country before. For everything from bus tickets to meal prices, plane tickets, entrance fees and more, it would be easy enough to separate locals from tourists by asking to see a long-stay visa or a lease.

The prices are meant to reward regulars versus tourists

If that’s the case, reward the regulars, or define locals based on residency. As things now stand, a Cambodian-American visiting the country for the first time will get a lower price on a bus ticket or flight than an expat who makes the same trip five times a month.

Maybe it’s unfair, but right now dual pricing is necessary to help Cambodia develop

Some businesses may be eager to help poor Cambodians, which is admirable, but these pricing policies only perpetuate a tradition of long-standing, entrenched racism in Cambodia, which ultimately helps no one. Instead it serves to deepen the divide between expats and locals. That divide is perpetuated by Cambodians when they treat foreigners like cash registers and by expats when they pay Cambodian staff far less than they pay their foreign employees. On both sides, the disparity is based on the idea that Cambodians need special treatment, whether that be lower prices or additional training.

On a more immediate level, if a business can charge a foreigner twice as much as it charges a Cambodian, at a certain point Cambodians will be shut out of the market. Why bother selling your widget to a local when, if you just wait around, you’ll make twice as much by selling to a foreigner?

But it’s only 2,000 riel!

Since this was first published, many people have pointed out that the price difference between what locals and foreigners are charged for in tuk tuk rides or vegetables in the market is very small. That’s true, and that sort of dual pricing is not what bothers me, particularly since it’s just as often based on perceived wealth as it is on race. What does bother me is institutionalized dual pricing, for flights, hospitals, yoga classes, etc., where there’s one price for Cambodians and a different price for non-Cambodians that is non-negotiable. When pricing like this is institutionalized, learning Khmer and whining “tlay na!” won’t change anything. If you are not Cambodian you will never get the Cambodian price for flights, no matter how long you live in this country.

(As an aside, I have heard that the few Westerners who do possess a Cambodian passport have difficulty entering the Angkor temples for free, but overseas Cambodians without a Cambodian passport are allowed in without question. Tell me again that it’s based on nationality and not race.)

This sort of dual pricing benefits only rich  Cambodians who clearly need no help in maintaining their wealth, and has no effect on those wealthy expats for whom an extra $50 for a plane ticket is chump change. Poor Cambodians rarely benefit from these policies, apart from perhaps getting free tickets to the Angkor Archaeological Park. And that benefit would not disappear if all residents, foreigners included, were given the local rate. Poor Cambodians don’t fly on Cambodia Angkor Air, and they get no benefit from a wealthy Khmer getting a reduced rate.

The Cambodian economy would not crumble if instead of having prices based on Cambodian versus non-Cambodia, prices were based on resident versus non-resident. When you see dual pricing based on race, complain. When at all possible, avoid companies that use it.

tl;dr Institutionalized dual pricing on things like airline tickets, hospitals, yoga classes, and bus tickets that are based solely on race and nationality are wrong. Tiered pricing based on residency versus non-residency would allow long-term residents — who are a tiny fraction of the foreigners who visit Cambodia — to pay the local price, without raising prices for Cambodians.

Expat Q&A: Artist influenced by her life in Cambodia

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they know now about Cambodia that they didn’t know before they moved, and about their life in the Kingdom of Wonder.

Three years ago American expat artist Karen Hartmann and her husband moved to Cambodia, after doing missionary work in the Cambodian community in Connecticut. Karen lives in Battambang where local life inspires her artwork, which is currently on display at The Kitchen and Lotus Gallery in Battambang.

Karen Hartmann Cambodia

After moving to Cambodia, Karen Hartmann’s work was increasingly influenced by Khmer culture and people.

MTC: What do you wish you had known before you moved to Cambodia?

KH: “We made five previous visits before moving to Battambang. Our preparation even included making the effort of learning the language to allow us to function well. So there really weren’t any unexpected or even unpleasant encounters, but we continue to enjoy discovering new facets of Cambodia, its people, and its lifestyle on a daily basis.

We were delighted to find how friendly Cambodians are; they are very warm and hospitable. One thing we weren’t sure about was how the local Cambodians view us as foreigners living here. We did have a little bit of uncertainty as to how welcome we would be settling in Battambang. After all, we clearly stand out as foreigners. But right from the beginning we were greeted and treated warmly, with respect, often gratitude and have had the impression ever since that our presence in Battambang is truly appreciated. Any concerns we might have had about perhaps being aliens, were completely unfounded and that has contributed to our feeling very comfortable in our new surroundings.

We came prepared to deal with lots and lots of challenges regarding maintaining a somewhat reasonable lifestyle, but some of my anxieties of having to drastically downscale were unfounded. With a bit of ingenuity, patience, and asking around, with the help of other expats I was able to source many more things than I first thought possible. For example, I was prepared to give up certain comforts of living, certain foods, etc. I realized I didn’t have to give up nearly as much as I anticipated. If I can’t source things locally here in Battambang, usually on a trip to Phnom Penh or Bangkok we find what we need. In short, even though life in Cambodia is much simpler than the United States, I never felt unduly limited. In fact, we value certain aspects of a much simpler life as compared to a Western lifestyle.”

Karen Hartmann artist

Karen’s work on display at Lotus Bar and Gallery.

What’s the art scene like in Battambang?

“Given the size of Battambang and the economic realities, I find the art scene to be surprisingly vibrant. I am happy to see not only the expats but the Cambodian artists supporting the activities. Having said that, I also think that the art scene would benefit tremendously from expanding into a wider range of subject matter, topics, and subjects.”

How has living in Cambodia influenced your artwork?

“The country, its culture and people have greatly influenced all of my paintings since coming to Cambodia in one way or another. Besides painting I am also an enthusiastic photographer. I have taken thousands of photographs over the year and often a photograph will inspire me to turn it into a painting. For a while I was enamoured by the krama which resulted in a series of studies in oil. Another series of paintings was inspired by studying Cambodian faces. Even my abstract expressionist paintings take their inspiration from daily Cambodian life.

My art has also expanded into making a very unique handmade soap and bath salts in several floral fragrances. It is called “Fleur du Cambodge” Even the packaging is hand painted with abstract expressionist motives. They are on sale at Eden Cafe and Lotus. I have no doubt this country will continue to provide inspiration for much more of my artwork.”

Considering moving to Battambang? Check out our expat guide to Battambang.

Review: Olive Cuisine de Saison, Siem Reap

Olive Cuisine de Saison in Siem Reap has been open for nearly a year, but it’s taken me this long to review it. Can I pretend that’s because I wanted to see if the good quality of their French and Mediterranean fare held up for this long? Well, it has.

Olive Cuisine de Saison, Siem Reap

Olive Cuisine de Saison: fine dining Siem Reap-style.

Olive Cuisine de Saison, or Olive, as the regulars call it, is a fine dining restaurant tucked away around the corner of the Angkor Trade Center. It’s just a short walk from Pub Street, but feels a world away with its serene atmosphere, white tablecloths bedecked with fresh flowers, and decidedly adult clientele. It’s quickly become an expat favorite in town, even if few tourists have discovered it yet.

Olive bills itself as French fine dining, but the menu is just as much Mediterranean as it is French. I usually avoid French restaurants because the menu is so often filled with hunks of meat and very little in the way of vegetables (sorry, French friends, it’s just not my thing). Olive has these sort of dishes, of course, but an entire pasta section as well as a smattering of upscale Khmer dishes. The menu is seasonal, with lots of seafood and fish, and every dish is plated beautifully.

Olive Siem Reap

Is it French? Is it Mediterranean? Who cares? It’s good.

I’m a fan of the seafood pasta with a creamy crab bisque and tomato sauce, topped with a surprisingly large portion of fish and seafood for the price ($13). The grilled vegetable pasta with a rich, creamed pesto was also quite good, and at $6.50, made for an expensive, delicious lunch.

I’ll admit that I’ve stuck to the pasta and starters at Olive but my dining companions have been more adventurous and tried the Cornish game hen (excellent) and Khmer seafood with Kampot pepper (less impressive). One regular recommends the baked grouper “it’s insane,” the lamb shank and the tenderloin rossini. The desserts are also very good, as is the wine list.

Olive restaurant Siem Reap

This is not Pub Street.

The restaurant is housed in a fully restored colonial building, with exposed brick walls, hung with large, colorful paintings of the ingredients that make up its menu: a beef shank, garlic, olives, peppers. Despite Olive’s fine dining atmosphere, the menu is reasonably priced and gives local standards like Abacus a run for their money. If you haven’t tried it yet, head to Olive for a lovely lunch or dinner in Siem Reap.

Olive Cuisine de Saison

Open daily, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
T: 063 769 899
Across from the side of Angkor Trade Center, Siem Reap [map]
facebook.com/Olivecuisinedesaison

Review: Happy Ranch Horse Farm, Siem Reap

I’m not ashamed to admit that I’m afraid of horses. So it was with some trepidation that I booked a horse ride with the Happy Ranch Horse Farm in Siem Reap. The Happy Ranch is home to 44 horses, and offers horse-cart rides and trail rides for all skill levels, as well as being a popular Siem Reap activity for kids.

horse riding siem reap

Getting ready to set out on a Siem Reap countryside trail ride at Happy Ranch.

We showed up, with no prior horse experience and were given helmets and introduced to our horses and our guide. Horse assignment seems to be based on experience and the weight of the rider — these are not big horses so riders cannot weigh more than 90kg (about 200lbs). You can choose ahead of time if you prefer to just walk, or to trot and canter. Trail rides go out into the neighboring countryside, and take you through local villages and lush green rice paddies. The best time of day for rides are in the morning or late afternoon when it’s not too hot. If you schedule your tour for later in the day, you’ll catch a stunning countryside sunset.

horse riding Siem Reap

A late afternoon Siem Reap horse ride through the rice paddies.

Happy Ranch is owned by Sary Pann, a Cambodian who has lived in the US for 30 years and developed a keen interest in the wild west. He’s imported all of the saddles and equipment from abroad, and the horses, which are Cambodian horses crossbred with Arabians, are well cared for. My only complaint is that despite filling out a long form about our experience with horses (none) we only got a short explanation before setting off, probably because we exuded an air of (mistaken) confidence. I would highly recommend spending some time asking questions before you hit the trail, because by the time you know to ask them, you may be in the middle of a panicky situation. My horse got frightened by a moto when we first set off — we had to cross a few roads to get out into the countryside — and reared up, and I had no idea what to do other than scream.

So make sure you understand how to handle a horse (it’s actually very easy) before you leave the stable. I would also highly recommend wearing long pants, and for ladies to wear a sports bra. Water is provided, as is a fanny pack to keep your phone and camera in, but if you have a larger camera be prepared to wear it around your neck on a shorter-than-usual lead so it doesn’t bang against the saddle when you are trotting.

riding horses siem reap

Rider and guide take a break for a photo opp.

Overall, though, it was an enjoyable activity, and a great way to see the Siem Reap countryside in a different way than usual. Even though we were scared of them, our horses were friendly and our guide was outgoing and fun.

Happy Ranch Horse Farm offer guided trail rides from one to four hours, for all skill levels. The cost is $28 per hour, $46 for two hours, $59 for three hours or $69 for four hours. Children from three can ride for 30 minutes on one of the smaller horses (on a lead if kids are very young). One-hour horse-cart rides cost $17 per adult, $8 per child up to age ten, and free for kids under five.

They do offer a slightly reduced expat and local rate ($3 off per hour) if you ask. However, be prepared to prove that you actually live locally. If you’re an experienced rider who wants to practice, Happy Ranch also offer a book of 10 one-hour rides for $200. Rides must be booked in advance and paid for in cash on the day of. Happy riding!

Happy Ranch Horse Farm

Group 4, Svay Dangkum, Siem Reap [map]
T: 012 920 002
thehappyranch.com

Review: Five Men Fresh Beer, Sihanoukville

Since a recent trip to Sihanoukville I’ve been meaning to review Five Men Fresh Beer, but was recently reminded now that they’ve started importing their beer to Phnom Penh. But it’s the Sihanoukville brewery itself that I’m concerning myself with, because it’s a gigantic beer hall that serves flavorful Cambodian dishes meant to compliment the glasses and glasses (and glasses and glasses) of ice-cold, ridiculously cheap beer.

Five men Fresh Beer Sihanoukville stout

Savory Cambodian dishes only help to make the ice-cold freshly brewed beer go down that much faster.

The cavernous brewery doubles as a beer hall and restaurant, with room to seat more than a hundred and several giant copper brew tanks off to the side. Despite the fact that it’s got an airport hanger vibe, it’s popular with all manner of locals, expats, and tourists. The menu offers a wide range of typical Cambodian BBQ-style dishes, like salty and delicious fried corn kernels cooked with dried shrimp, sweet char-grilled pork ribs, spicy mango salad, braised river fish and staples like fried rice. Servings are large and the prices are low — most mains cost $3.75, making it easily possible to have a meal and a dozen beers for less than $10 dollars.

Five Men Fresh Beer Sihanoukville Cambodian food

At Five Men Fresh Beer the food is as important as the beer, and relatively inexpensive.

The Cambodian owner of the place previously worked for Angkor and Cambodia Beer, and was trained in Germany as a brewmaster before starting Five Men Fresh Beer. He seems to have ignored some of his training, though. His offerings have been billed by some as craft beer, but it’s certainly no IPA. Similar to Vietnamese bia hoi, it’s named “fresh beer” for a reason. It’s not aged, and is served directly out of the tank without a secondary fermentation. This has some expat beer lovers in a lather, but if you’re satisfied with the other local offerings, including Cambodia, Anchor, or Angkor, you won’t have any problems with what they’re serving at Five Men Fresh Beer.

Five Men Fresh Beer Brewery Sihanoukville

The Five Men Fresh Beer Brewery in Sihanoukville is big, but never empty.

You can order two types of beer, a German-style lager or stout (ordered as white or black). The beer is served in iced glasses, so you can hardly taste them on a hot day, or notice how quickly they disappear. You don’t need to concern yourself with that, though, as the staff keep track of how many you’ve ordered by stacking an ever-growing pile of plastic coasters on your table, a grim reminder of the headache ahead. Or perhaps not! While they claim the lager ($0.50) is 4.5% and the stout ($0.75) is 6%, all evidence suggests that both are in the 3-4% range. True beer aficionados may turn their noses up at the stuff, but your faithful servant thought it was just fine. Paired with the savory, inexpensive food, Five Men Fresh Beer makes for a fun night out in Sihanoukville.

Five Men Fresh Beer

Open daily, 7 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.
19 Mithona Street, Krom 16, Phnom 2, Sangkat 3, Sihanoukville [map]
T: 012 913 346; 015 998 896

Quiz! Russian Market or Orussey Market?

Real Phnom Penh expats know their way around the markets. And we’re not talking about Lucky Supermarket and Thai Huot. The panoply of local markets and specialty “areas” within each market requires both finesse and organization to ensure that you don’t waste time going from Kandal Market down to Russian Market and then back up to Central Market just to tick everything off your shopping list.

If you stay in Cambodia long enough, you will have your favorite vendors and suppliers at each market, and know what time of day to get the freshest fish from Psar Chas and where to buy fabric for button-down “work” shirts just outside of Olympic Market. But for the newbies, keeping the specialties of each market straight can be a challenge. Personally, we would never confuse Russian Market (Psar Toul Tom Pong) with Orussey Market, but we’ve heard that it happens (you know who you are). Take this quiz and see how well you know the difference…

What’s the signature scent of Orussey Market?

Orussey Market Phnom Penh

When you see this sign, what’s the first smell that springs to mind?

Roasting coffee!

What’s the overwhelming smell of Russian Market?

cambodia wet market

Ah…I love the smell of a wet market in the morning!

Wet market! Mmm!

Where should you go to buy a traditional outfit for a Khmer wedding?

Psar Orussey

Head up these stairs to get fitted out for a Cambodian wedding.

Psar Orussey, second floor!

Where can you find cool silk lamps and shades?

silk lamps Cambodia

Find lighting on the cheap at this market…

Russian Market!

Which of the markets has one of the facing streets with a KFC and a bunch of export shops?

Cambodia export stores

Export stores offer some of the best shopping in town…but where are they?

Russian Market!

Which market has a facing street where you can buy a bicycle?

Cambodia bicycles

Where to find your chariot?

Orussey Market!

Which market has t-shirts with hand-drawn designs?

cambodia t-shirts

Original designs, or at last, hand-drawn.

Russian Market!

Where to buy seeds to grow a garden?

cambodia gardening

Get all of your gardening supplies here!

Orussey Market!

Where should you go to get your fortune told?

cambodia fortune teller

How long will I live in Cambodia? Only the fortune teller knows!

Orussey Market!

Where should you go to a buy a fake Northface backpack?

Cambodia backpack

Is it real or is it fake? Probably fake, but where can I get one?

Russian Market!

Which market has the best Khmer Iced Coffee guy?

Cambodian iced coffee

Where can you find the best Cambodia iced coffee? Or at least, the guy that says he sells the best iced coffee?

Russian Market!

Which one can you finish your errands by paying your bills by Wing right inside the market?

wing cambodia

Gotta pay your bills? There’s a Wing stand conveniently inside this market.

Orussey Market!

Thanks for taking our market quiz? How did you do? Stay tuned for our next installment: Who’s more annoying, American or French expats?