Dual pricing in Cambodia: the excuses debunked

Dual pricing based on race is very common in Cambodia, from the bus companies who charge white faces more to the hospitals that have one rate for Khmers and another for foreigners. Even the government-owned airline has one fare for Cambodians and another, much higher fare for everyone else. This is frustrating on many levels, not least when it’s foreign-owned businesses that are perpetuating dual pricing. Here are some of the most frequently cited arguments in favor of dual pricing — debunked.

dual pricing cambodia

At fancy hospitals there is one price for foreigners and one price for Cambodians. Even with the reduced rate, care is out of reach for poor Cambodians.

But Cambodians are poor

It’s true that Cambodians, by and large, are poor. And it’s also true that most expats are better off than most rural Cambodians. But it’s important to remember how outdated is the oversimplification that Cambodians are poor and Westerners are rich. These days the streets of Phnom Penh are clogged with gas-guzzling Lexus SUVs, and they are driven by rich Khmers, not Westerners. Perhaps just as surprising, there are Western expats sleeping on those very same streets.

Pricing based on race is a blunt instrument, and one that has failed. This failure grows more apparent as the Khmer riche get richer and the average expat is no longer on a generous relocation package — these days, expats are just as likely to work a “regular” job as anyone else. The wealthiest 1 percent in Cambodia is made up not of Westerners, but rather of the Khmer elite and (some) Asian expats. While most expats are solidly middle class, they are still leagues behind the Khmer upper class and elite, financially speaking. And much of Cambodia’s dual pricing benefits the Khmer upper and middle class and has no impact on the lives of the poor; you won’t find subsistence farmers getting a price break on yoga classes or on flights to Bangkok. These benefits go to those who are already privileged and do nothing for those who are truly in need.

Dual pricing is based on nationality, not on race

First off, Cambodian nationality is, for the most part, based on race (non-Vietnamese minority tribes are the exception). Any child of a Cambodian mother is granted Cambodian citizenship, regardless of where he or she is born. The child of non-Cambodians, though born and raised in Cambodia, is not granted Cambodian citizenship. Ethnically Vietnamese families who have lived in Cambodia for generations are, for all intents and purposes, stateless as far as the Cambodian government is concerned. So the argument that the dual-pricing system is not racist because it is based on nationality is flawed, because there is no attainable path to Cambodian citizenship for non-Cambodians (and I don’t call paying a $50,000 “facilitation fee” attainable).

Moreover, non-Cambodian Asians often benefit from the dual pricing plan, paying the local rate even when they don’t speak much Khmer and are citizens of Western countries. In practice, actual nationality seems unimportant; looking Khmer matters more. Khmer-Americans are also given the “local” price by many businesses, whether or not they have Cambodian passports.

dual pricing cambodia

Airlines one price for Cambodians and another price for non-Cambodians.

But tourists should subsidize things like national parks for the locals

I don’t disagree, but there are other, more sensible ways to accomplish this. In the Philippines, I went to national attractions that had one price for locals and one price for tourists — and anyone with a long-stay visa was counted as a local. In Cambodia, on the other hand, anyone who looks like a Cambodian gets the local price, even if they’re tourists, while long-time residents who don’t look Cambodian are charged as foreigners. Thus Americans with one Cambodian parent are given free passes to the Angkor Archaeological Park, even if they’ve never set foot in the country before. For everything from bus tickets to meal prices, plane tickets, entrance fees and more, it would be easy enough to separate locals from tourists by asking to see a long-stay visa or a lease.

The prices are meant to reward regulars versus tourists

If that’s the case, reward the regulars, or define locals based on residency. As things now stand, a Cambodian-American visiting the country for the first time will get a lower price on a bus ticket or flight than an expat who makes the same trip five times a month.

Maybe it’s unfair, but right now dual pricing is necessary to help Cambodia develop

Some businesses may be eager to help poor Cambodians, which is admirable, but these pricing policies only perpetuate a tradition of long-standing, entrenched racism in Cambodia, which ultimately helps no one. Instead it serves to deepen the divide between expats and locals. That divide is perpetuated by Cambodians when they treat foreigners like cash registers and by expats when they pay Cambodian staff far less than they pay their foreign employees. On both sides, the disparity is based on the idea that Cambodians need special treatment, whether that be lower prices or additional training.

On a more immediate level, if a business can charge a foreigner twice as much as it charges a Cambodian, at a certain point Cambodians will be shut out of the market. Why bother selling your widget to a local when, if you just wait around, you’ll make twice as much by selling to a foreigner?

But it’s only 2,000 riel!

Since this was first published, many people have pointed out that the price difference between what locals and foreigners are charged for in tuk tuk rides or vegetables in the market is very small. That’s true, and that sort of dual pricing is not what bothers me, particularly since it’s just as often based on perceived wealth as it is on race. What does bother me is institutionalized dual pricing, for flights, hospitals, yoga classes, etc., where there’s one price for Cambodians and a different price for non-Cambodians that is non-negotiable. When pricing like this is institutionalized, learning Khmer and whining “tlay na!” won’t change anything. If you are not Cambodian you will never get the Cambodian price for flights, no matter how long you live in this country.

(As an aside, I have heard that the few Westerners who do possess a Cambodian passport have difficulty entering the Angkor temples for free, but overseas Cambodians without a Cambodian passport are allowed in without question. Tell me again that it’s based on nationality and not race.)

This sort of dual pricing benefits only rich  Cambodians who clearly need no help in maintaining their wealth, and has no effect on those wealthy expats for whom an extra $50 for a plane ticket is chump change. Poor Cambodians rarely benefit from these policies, apart from perhaps getting free tickets to the Angkor Archaeological Park. And that benefit would not disappear if all residents, foreigners included, were given the local rate. Poor Cambodians don’t fly on Cambodia Angkor Air, and they get no benefit from a wealthy Khmer getting a reduced rate.

The Cambodian economy would not crumble if instead of having prices based on Cambodian versus non-Cambodia, prices were based on resident versus non-resident. When you see dual pricing based on race, complain. When at all possible, avoid companies that use it.

tl;dr Institutionalized dual pricing on things like airline tickets, hospitals, yoga classes, and bus tickets that are based solely on race and nationality are wrong. Tiered pricing based on residency versus non-residency would allow long-term residents — who are a tiny fraction of the foreigners who visit Cambodia — to pay the local price, without raising prices for Cambodians.

Expat Q&A: Artist influenced by her life in Cambodia

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they know now about Cambodia that they didn’t know before they moved, and about their life in the Kingdom of Wonder.

Three years ago American expat artist Karen Hartmann and her husband moved to Cambodia, after doing missionary work in the Cambodian community in Connecticut. Karen lives in Battambang where local life inspires her artwork, which is currently on display at The Kitchen and Lotus Gallery in Battambang.

Karen Hartmann Cambodia

After moving to Cambodia, Karen Hartmann’s work was increasingly influenced by Khmer culture and people.

MTC: What do you wish you had known before you moved to Cambodia?

KH: “We made five previous visits before moving to Battambang. Our preparation even included making the effort of learning the language to allow us to function well. So there really weren’t any unexpected or even unpleasant encounters, but we continue to enjoy discovering new facets of Cambodia, its people, and its lifestyle on a daily basis.

We were delighted to find how friendly Cambodians are; they are very warm and hospitable. One thing we weren’t sure about was how the local Cambodians view us as foreigners living here. We did have a little bit of uncertainty as to how welcome we would be settling in Battambang. After all, we clearly stand out as foreigners. But right from the beginning we were greeted and treated warmly, with respect, often gratitude and have had the impression ever since that our presence in Battambang is truly appreciated. Any concerns we might have had about perhaps being aliens, were completely unfounded and that has contributed to our feeling very comfortable in our new surroundings.

We came prepared to deal with lots and lots of challenges regarding maintaining a somewhat reasonable lifestyle, but some of my anxieties of having to drastically downscale were unfounded. With a bit of ingenuity, patience, and asking around, with the help of other expats I was able to source many more things than I first thought possible. For example, I was prepared to give up certain comforts of living, certain foods, etc. I realized I didn’t have to give up nearly as much as I anticipated. If I can’t source things locally here in Battambang, usually on a trip to Phnom Penh or Bangkok we find what we need. In short, even though life in Cambodia is much simpler than the United States, I never felt unduly limited. In fact, we value certain aspects of a much simpler life as compared to a Western lifestyle.”

Karen Hartmann artist

Karen’s work on display at Lotus Bar and Gallery.

What’s the art scene like in Battambang?

“Given the size of Battambang and the economic realities, I find the art scene to be surprisingly vibrant. I am happy to see not only the expats but the Cambodian artists supporting the activities. Having said that, I also think that the art scene would benefit tremendously from expanding into a wider range of subject matter, topics, and subjects.”

How has living in Cambodia influenced your artwork?

“The country, its culture and people have greatly influenced all of my paintings since coming to Cambodia in one way or another. Besides painting I am also an enthusiastic photographer. I have taken thousands of photographs over the year and often a photograph will inspire me to turn it into a painting. For a while I was enamoured by the krama which resulted in a series of studies in oil. Another series of paintings was inspired by studying Cambodian faces. Even my abstract expressionist paintings take their inspiration from daily Cambodian life.

My art has also expanded into making a very unique handmade soap and bath salts in several floral fragrances. It is called “Fleur du Cambodge” Even the packaging is hand painted with abstract expressionist motives. They are on sale at Eden Cafe and Lotus. I have no doubt this country will continue to provide inspiration for much more of my artwork.”

Considering moving to Battambang? Check out our expat guide to Battambang.

Review: Olive Cuisine de Saison, Siem Reap

Olive Cuisine de Saison in Siem Reap has been open for nearly a year, but it’s taken me this long to review it. Can I pretend that’s because I wanted to see if the good quality of their French and Mediterranean fare held up for this long? Well, it has.

Olive Cuisine de Saison, Siem Reap

Olive Cuisine de Saison: fine dining Siem Reap-style.

Olive Cuisine de Saison, or Olive, as the regulars call it, is a fine dining restaurant tucked away around the corner of the Angkor Trade Center. It’s just a short walk from Pub Street, but feels a world away with its serene atmosphere, white tablecloths bedecked with fresh flowers, and decidedly adult clientele. It’s quickly become an expat favorite in town, even if few tourists have discovered it yet.

Olive bills itself as French fine dining, but the menu is just as much Mediterranean as it is French. I usually avoid French restaurants because the menu is so often filled with hunks of meat and very little in the way of vegetables (sorry, French friends, it’s just not my thing). Olive has these sort of dishes, of course, but an entire pasta section as well as a smattering of upscale Khmer dishes. The menu is seasonal, with lots of seafood and fish, and every dish is plated beautifully.

Olive Siem Reap

Is it French? Is it Mediterranean? Who cares? It’s good.

I’m a fan of the seafood pasta with a creamy crab bisque and tomato sauce, topped with a surprisingly large portion of fish and seafood for the price ($13). The grilled vegetable pasta with a rich, creamed pesto was also quite good, and at $6.50, made for an expensive, delicious lunch.

I’ll admit that I’ve stuck to the pasta and starters at Olive but my dining companions have been more adventurous and tried the Cornish game hen (excellent) and Khmer seafood with Kampot pepper (less impressive). One regular recommends the baked grouper “it’s insane,” the lamb shank and the tenderloin rossini. The desserts are also very good, as is the wine list.

Olive restaurant Siem Reap

This is not Pub Street.

The restaurant is housed in a fully restored colonial building, with exposed brick walls, hung with large, colorful paintings of the ingredients that make up its menu: a beef shank, garlic, olives, peppers. Despite Olive’s fine dining atmosphere, the menu is reasonably priced and gives local standards like Abacus a run for their money. If you haven’t tried it yet, head to Olive for a lovely lunch or dinner in Siem Reap.

Olive Cuisine de Saison

Open daily, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
T: 063 769 899
Across from the side of Angkor Trade Center, Siem Reap [map]
facebook.com/Olivecuisinedesaison

Review: Happy Ranch Horse Farm, Siem Reap

I’m not ashamed to admit that I’m afraid of horses. So it was with some trepidation that I booked a horse ride with the Happy Ranch Horse Farm in Siem Reap. The Happy Ranch is home to 44 horses, and offers horse-cart rides and trail rides for all skill levels, as well as being a popular Siem Reap activity for kids.

horse riding siem reap

Getting ready to set out on a Siem Reap countryside trail ride at Happy Ranch.

We showed up, with no prior horse experience and were given helmets and introduced to our horses and our guide. Horse assignment seems to be based on experience and the weight of the rider — these are not big horses so riders cannot weigh more than 90kg (about 200lbs). You can choose ahead of time if you prefer to just walk, or to trot and canter. Trail rides go out into the neighboring countryside, and take you through local villages and lush green rice paddies. The best time of day for rides are in the morning or late afternoon when it’s not too hot. If you schedule your tour for later in the day, you’ll catch a stunning countryside sunset.

horse riding Siem Reap

A late afternoon Siem Reap horse ride through the rice paddies.

Happy Ranch is owned by Sary Pann, a Cambodian who has lived in the US for 30 years and developed a keen interest in the wild west. He’s imported all of the saddles and equipment from abroad, and the horses, which are Cambodian horses crossbred with Arabians, are well cared for. My only complaint is that despite filling out a long form about our experience with horses (none) we only got a short explanation before setting off, probably because we exuded an air of (mistaken) confidence. I would highly recommend spending some time asking questions before you hit the trail, because by the time you know to ask them, you may be in the middle of a panicky situation. My horse got frightened by a moto when we first set off — we had to cross a few roads to get out into the countryside — and reared up, and I had no idea what to do other than scream.

So make sure you understand how to handle a horse (it’s actually very easy) before you leave the stable. I would also highly recommend wearing long pants, and for ladies to wear a sports bra. Water is provided, as is a fanny pack to keep your phone and camera in, but if you have a larger camera be prepared to wear it around your neck on a shorter-than-usual lead so it doesn’t bang against the saddle when you are trotting.

riding horses siem reap

Rider and guide take a break for a photo opp.

Overall, though, it was an enjoyable activity, and a great way to see the Siem Reap countryside in a different way than usual. Even though we were scared of them, our horses were friendly and our guide was outgoing and fun.

Happy Ranch Horse Farm offer guided trail rides from one to four hours, for all skill levels. The cost is $28 per hour, $46 for two hours, $59 for three hours or $69 for four hours. Children from three can ride for 30 minutes on one of the smaller horses (on a lead if kids are very young). One-hour horse-cart rides cost $17 per adult, $8 per child up to age ten, and free for kids under five.

They do offer a slightly reduced expat and local rate ($3 off per hour) if you ask. However, be prepared to prove that you actually live locally. If you’re an experienced rider who wants to practice, Happy Ranch also offer a book of 10 one-hour rides for $200. Rides must be booked in advance and paid for in cash on the day of. Happy riding!

Happy Ranch Horse Farm

Group 4, Svay Dangkum, Siem Reap [map]
T: 012 920 002
thehappyranch.com

Review: Five Men Fresh Beer, Sihanoukville

Since a recent trip to Sihanoukville I’ve been meaning to review Five Men Fresh Beer, but was recently reminded now that they’ve started importing their beer to Phnom Penh. But it’s the Sihanoukville brewery itself that I’m concerning myself with, because it’s a gigantic beer hall that serves flavorful Cambodian dishes meant to compliment the glasses and glasses (and glasses and glasses) of ice-cold, ridiculously cheap beer.

Five men Fresh Beer Sihanoukville stout

Savory Cambodian dishes only help to make the ice-cold freshly brewed beer go down that much faster.

The cavernous brewery doubles as a beer hall and restaurant, with room to seat more than a hundred and several giant copper brew tanks off to the side. Despite the fact that it’s got an airport hanger vibe, it’s popular with all manner of locals, expats, and tourists. The menu offers a wide range of typical Cambodian BBQ-style dishes, like salty and delicious fried corn kernels cooked with dried shrimp, sweet char-grilled pork ribs, spicy mango salad, braised river fish and staples like fried rice. Servings are large and the prices are low — most mains cost $3.75, making it easily possible to have a meal and a dozen beers for less than $10 dollars.

Five Men Fresh Beer Sihanoukville Cambodian food

At Five Men Fresh Beer the food is as important as the beer, and relatively inexpensive.

The Cambodian owner of the place previously worked for Angkor and Cambodia Beer, and was trained in Germany as a brewmaster before starting Five Men Fresh Beer. He seems to have ignored some of his training, though. His offerings have been billed by some as craft beer, but it’s certainly no IPA. Similar to Vietnamese bia hoi, it’s named “fresh beer” for a reason. It’s not aged, and is served directly out of the tank without a secondary fermentation. This has some expat beer lovers in a lather, but if you’re satisfied with the other local offerings, including Cambodia, Anchor, or Angkor, you won’t have any problems with what they’re serving at Five Men Fresh Beer.

Five Men Fresh Beer Brewery Sihanoukville

The Five Men Fresh Beer Brewery in Sihanoukville is big, but never empty.

You can order two types of beer, a German-style lager or stout (ordered as white or black). The beer is served in iced glasses, so you can hardly taste them on a hot day, or notice how quickly they disappear. You don’t need to concern yourself with that, though, as the staff keep track of how many you’ve ordered by stacking an ever-growing pile of plastic coasters on your table, a grim reminder of the headache ahead. Or perhaps not! While they claim the lager ($0.50) is 4.5% and the stout ($0.75) is 6%, all evidence suggests that both are in the 3-4% range. True beer aficionados may turn their noses up at the stuff, but your faithful servant thought it was just fine. Paired with the savory, inexpensive food, Five Men Fresh Beer makes for a fun night out in Sihanoukville.

Five Men Fresh Beer

Open daily, 7 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.
19 Mithona Street, Krom 16, Phnom 2, Sangkat 3, Sihanoukville [map]
T: 012 913 346; 015 998 896

Quiz! Russian Market or Orussey Market?

Real Phnom Penh expats know their way around the markets. And we’re not talking about Lucky Supermarket and Thai Huot. The panoply of local markets and specialty “areas” within each market requires both finesse and organization to ensure that you don’t waste time going from Kandal Market down to Russian Market and then back up to Central Market just to tick everything off your shopping list.

If you stay in Cambodia long enough, you will have your favorite vendors and suppliers at each market, and know what time of day to get the freshest fish from Psar Chas and where to buy fabric for button-down “work” shirts just outside of Olympic Market. But for the newbies, keeping the specialties of each market straight can be a challenge. Personally, we would never confuse Russian Market (Psar Toul Tom Pong) with Orussey Market, but we’ve heard that it happens (you know who you are). Take this quiz and see how well you know the difference…

What’s the signature scent of Orussey Market?

Orussey Market Phnom Penh

When you see this sign, what’s the first smell that springs to mind?

Roasting coffee!

What’s the overwhelming smell of Russian Market?

cambodia wet market

Ah…I love the smell of a wet market in the morning!

Wet market! Mmm!

Where should you go to buy a traditional outfit for a Khmer wedding?

Psar Orussey

Head up these stairs to get fitted out for a Cambodian wedding.

Psar Orussey, second floor!

Where can you find cool silk lamps and shades?

silk lamps Cambodia

Find lighting on the cheap at this market…

Russian Market!

Which of the markets has one of the facing streets with a KFC and a bunch of export shops?

Cambodia export stores

Export stores offer some of the best shopping in town…but where are they?

Russian Market!

Which market has a facing street where you can buy a bicycle?

Cambodia bicycles

Where to find your chariot?

Orussey Market!

Which market has t-shirts with hand-drawn designs?

cambodia t-shirts

Original designs, or at last, hand-drawn.

Russian Market!

Where to buy seeds to grow a garden?

cambodia gardening

Get all of your gardening supplies here!

Orussey Market!

Where should you go to get your fortune told?

cambodia fortune teller

How long will I live in Cambodia? Only the fortune teller knows!

Orussey Market!

Where should you go to a buy a fake Northface backpack?

Cambodia backpack

Is it real or is it fake? Probably fake, but where can I get one?

Russian Market!

Which market has the best Khmer Iced Coffee guy?

Cambodian iced coffee

Where can you find the best Cambodia iced coffee? Or at least, the guy that says he sells the best iced coffee?

Russian Market!

Which one can you finish your errands by paying your bills by Wing right inside the market?

wing cambodia

Gotta pay your bills? There’s a Wing stand conveniently inside this market.

Orussey Market!

Thanks for taking our market quiz? How did you do? Stay tuned for our next installment: Who’s more annoying, American or French expats?

Phnom Penh’s new hop-on, hop-off bus

Perhaps you have seen this new red bus around Phnom Penh. I spotted it on Street 278 across from Artillery.  Is it true? Does The Charming City have its own hop-on, hop-off tourist bus?

hop on hop off bus Phnom Penh

Is it true? A sightseeing bus in Phnom Penh?

Well, yes and no.

The service started just two months ago, so is getting it’s sea legs during low season. Currently, the bus is running like a typical city tour every other day — pick up from hotels, ten stops comprising major Phnom Penh points of interest, with time at each to explore (and then some), a bottle of water, and drop off back at your hotel. On non-City Tour days, the bus runs to the Killing Fields and Genocide Museum. It is expected that during high season (November through March) that it will do a more typical hop-on, hop-off service with buses on the route every hour between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. starting and ending at the Night Market.

sightseeing bus phnom penh

See the sights in Phnom Penh without foregoing air-conditioning.

For now, for $15 you get picked up, given a bottle of water and taken by air-conditioned bus to the following sites:

  • Night Market (if you catch the bus from the office there)
  • Wat Ounalom and Kandal Market
  • National Museum* / Art Street
  • Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda*
  • Independence Monument / King Norodom Sihanouk Monument
  • Toul Sleng Genocide Museum* ( S21)
  • Central Market
  • Wat Phnom*
  • Russian Market

* Entrance fees for the sites is not included. This will add another $11 or 12 to your trip.

The journey is accompanied by a driver and an English-speaking attendant, who can tell you a bit about the main sites, but is not a licensed tour guide. For the City Tour, Hop-On, Hop-Off recommends you hire a guide for the Silver Pagoda and Royal Palace. There are also tour guides available at Toul Sleng and an audio guide available at the Killing Fields.

tourist bus Phnom Penh

Heading straight for the Royal Palace.

The off-season city tour is good value — $15 is about the price of a tuk tuk for the day, and although the city commentary is nothing extraordinary, tourists and first-time visitors may find it interesting and useful to be able to ask the attendant questions. I plan on recommending the service to our visiting friends and family when I need to get rid of them for the day.

The brochure boasts “28 Attractions,” including the “Cruise Terminal” and “BKK,” which are not really attractions, nor are they stops on the tour, although you do drive by. The brochure also says that there is an English audio recording providing commentary on the drive. I didn’t get to hear this, but our attendant added some points of interest and brief history of Independence Monument, Russian Market, and Wat Phnom.

Phnom Penh bus

And a quick stop at Wat Phnom.

There was only one other passenger when we took our city tour, so the trip was tailored to what we wanted to see and how long we wanted to spend at each site. If there are any sites you’ve already seen, the driver and attendant are happy to take this into account. Our bus tour did not stop at the French Quarter and Old Post Office, even though that is listed as one of the stops, but we made all of the other scheduled stops which allowed more than ample time for shopping (markets) and taking photos and exploring.

I imagine this service will get pretty popular during high season, and am interested to see how the tour-style bus route transitions into a traditional hop-on, hop-off bus. Let us know in the comments about your experiences!

You can book the Hop-On, Hop-Off City Tour and/or Killing Fields Tour through most hotels in Phnom Penh, or by calling their phone number: 016 745 880.

Flying from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap (and vice-versa)

A year or two ago the cost of flying from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap was ridiculously high, with a round-trip flight costing upwards of $200. Now, though, Cambodia has licensed several new airlines and flights from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap (and vice-versa) have gotten surprisingly cheap. In this post we’ve got some background on the Cambodian aviation industry and review the best flights from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap.

Cambodia Angkor Air

Finally! It’s affordable to fly between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

A year ago, only one airline was licensed to fly between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, Cambodia Angkor Air, who have used their monopoly on the Phnom Penh to Siem Reap route to keep prices high. Starting at the end of 2014, though, Cambodia started licensing other airlines to fly domestically in Cambodia.

Cambodia may be a bit too free-wheeling when it comes to the licensing. The UN’s International Civil Aviation Organization have expressed concerns that airlines are using the country’s lax regulatory standards as a backdoor route to obtaining their Airline Operating Certificate (AOC). Airlines that would not be able to obtain their AOC in their home country (specifically, China) set up flights in Cambodia to obtain their AOC. In some cases — such as with Apsara Air — soon after being granted an AOC the airline then ceases flying their domestic Cambodia flights. The UN’S ICAO is planning another audit of Cambodia’s aviation authority at the end of the year, but the last one in 2007 ranked the country well below international standards.

To compound the problem, there are rumors swirling that several of the domestic airlines are offering “pay to fly” programs that allow trainee pilots to earn flight hours by paying large sums of money to airlines to let them fly. The fact of the matter is that domestic flights in Cambodia are certainly not as safe as those back home, but neither are the roads!

Below, we cover who is offering Phnom Penh to Siem Reap flights:

Cambodia Angkor Air

Cambodia Angkor Air is the longest running-airline offering domestic flights in Cambodia. Cambodia Angkor Air is owned by the Cambodian government and Vietnam Airlines, and their pilots are all from Vietnam Airlines. As far as safety goes, Cambodia Angkor Air is the airline favored by government and embassy personnel for having the best safety standards (but it’s all relative, of course). They fly ATR72 turboprop planes on the Siem Reap-Phnom Penh route. They’re French-Italian planes and considered much safer than the Chinese MA60 turboprop planes flown by Bayon Airlines. The flight takes about 50 minutes and economy bookings include 20 kg baggage. They suggest arriving an hour before boarding.

Cambodia Angkor Air ATR72

Cambodia Angkor Air flies ATR72s prop planes for domestic flights.

Cambodia Angkor Air has recently lowered their (previously exorbitant) prices in response to the influx of new airlines. Flights can currently be purchased for $70 one-way and $140 return. Their schedule changes regularly, but usually have four or five flights a day. Check their review of Cambodia Angkor Air for more about the airline.

Bassaka Air

Bassaka Air is a relative newcomer in Cambodian airspace and has quickly driven the prices for Phnom Penh to Siem Reap flights. Flights on Bassaka Air start at just $19, and even the high-priced ones are less than $50.

Cambodia Bassaka Air A320

Bassaka Air flies a big A320 Airbus.

The airline is a joint venture between the Naga casino company and the Chinese government. The airline have two planes, A320-200 Airbuses, that were formerly owned by Vietnam Airlines. The A320-200s are big planes that seat 168 passengers, making the trip shorter on than Cambodia Angkor Air and Bayon Air, who both fly this route in smaller, slower propeller planes.

The flight takes about 45 minutes and economy bookings include 20 kg baggage. Bassaka Air offers one flight per day in either direction, and they suggest arriving 45 minutes before boarding. The caveat is that because small airlines in Cambodia disappear so regularly, we wouldn’t hold our breath that Bassaka Air will stay in business. Meaning, don’t book too far in advance and I wouldn’t recommend using them as a connecting flight for an international flight, unless you give yourself a day’s padding in case something goes wrong. For more information, read our full review of Bassaka Air from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap.

Cambodia Bayon Airlines

Cambodia Bayon Airlines is another new airline flying in Cambodia that is offering a daily Phnom Penh to Siem Reap flight, and one from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh. Prices are cheap, starting at $32 each way. However, Cambodia Bayon Airlines is flying the infamous Chinese MA60 (“Modern Ark 60”) propeller plane, that has been banned from flying in the US, Europe, UK, New Zealand, and Australia. Recently, countries like Tonga, Nepal, and Indonesia have either gotten rid of or banned the MA60 due to safety issues. Cambodia Bayon Airlines, on the other hand, has 19 more on order, presumably because no one else would take them.

Cambodia Bayon Airlines

Cambodia Bayon Airlines flies Chinese MA60 turboprop planes.

For this reason, we’re not so keen on flying with Cambodia Bayon Airlines. If you are feeling adventurous, though, the flight takes about 50 minutes and economy bookings include 20 kg baggage. Bassaka Air offers one flight per day in either direction, and they suggest checking-in a minimum of 30 minutes before boarding. As with all new airlines, we are not counting on them being around for very long. To learn more, we have a much more detailed review of Cambodia Bayon Airlines from a recent flight.