So you’ve found an apartment in Phnom Penh. Now what?

So you’ve been searching for the perfect Phnom Penh apartment for a while, and you’ve finally found it (using our expat guide to Phnom Penh real estate and housing, we assume). Whether you’re moving into a shophouse or a luxury apartment, there are a few things you should do before you sign the lease.

Phnom Penh housing

Phnom Penh is a city awash in housing. Find out what you need to do once you’ve found your pad.

→ Visit the apartment in the evening. Even if you can’t get access to the apartment itself, walk around the neighborhood and see who your neighbors are. You might not notice that you’re directly above a karaoke joint if you have only visited the apartment in the morning, but you will definitely notice once you are locked into a lease and spend your first night there.

→ Negotiate the cost of utilities and any other extras with the landlord. The actual rate for electricity is 820 riel/kWh (this is for users who use more than 100 kw in a month, which is most expats). Landlords will often charge up to 1,500 riel per kw, which can be a $20 to $30 a month difference. Many landlords will also charge a $10 or $20 flat rate for water, when if you paid by your actual usage, the cost would be closer to $2 a month. Insist on paying the going rate before signing the lease. If they refuse, walk. Landlords who rip you off from the get-go are almost certainly going to be a bad landlord in the long run. 

Confirm that the apartment has its own electricity meter. If not, you may end up paying the bill for the entire building. It’s also worth confirming that it actually works; check to see that the numbers are moving. Turn the main power switch for the apartment off and make sure the lights are still on elsewhere in the building.

Negotiate any changes or additions you’d like before you move in. Most landlords are willing to do things like remove furniture or add an air-conditioner before the lease is signed, but are less willing once you’re already ensconced in the apartment.

→ Check the meter readings and make sure that the starting reading is included in your lease or other documentation.

If you are moving into a serviced apartment, make sure you understand what services are provided, and if there any additional fees to cover them. Cable, internet, water, garbage, and security are often covered. A few even cover electricity. Find out in advance so there are no surprises down the line.

Discuss with the landlord if they will provide a cleaner, or if you will need to hire one on your own. Many landlords will prefer you to hire a relative of theirs or someone they know. If you choose to do this, negotiate a price in advance.

→ Document any damage to the apartment at the outset, to have a record for when you move out. Before moving in, get the landlord’s acknowledgement of the damages.

Talk to the landlord and your agent about what the landlord will be responsible for. Many landlords will take care of repairs and painting, but others will consider this the tenant’s responsibility. It’s better to know up front which camp your landlord falls into.

Make sure that the lease details all of the above: utilities rates (unless you are paying the utilities companies directly) who is responsible for repairs, plus an inventory of what furniture the landlord has provided and its condition.

Negotiate the terms for getting your deposit back. Will the landlord let you use it for your last month’s rent? Will they do a walk-through with your on your last day of tenancy and return it then? Make sure this is included on your lease.

Provide your agent or landlord with the required documentation: a copy of your passport, visa and several passport photos that will be registered with the Sangkat that you live in. Some landlords may ask for an employment confirmation letter from your employer.

Agree on the move-in date and sign the lease.

→ Pay a deposit, usually equal to one or two month’s rent. You are not expected to pay your agent if you use one; the landlord will do this.

Want to know more about how to find an apartment in Phnom Penh, recommended real estate agents, and info on buying property? Check out our Phnom Penh expat guide: real estate and housing

How to get from Sihanoukville to Kampot (and vice-versa)

If you can’t decide between a beach town and a river town, why not visit both?Sihanoukville and Kampot are less than 80 miles apart (126km) and the road is in surprisingly good condition. By taxi, the trip takes less than two hours. Here are all of the ways you can get from Kampot and Sihanoukville (and vice-versa).

Durian roundabout Kampot

Head from Sihanoukville to Kampot and check out the famous durian roundabout.

Taxi: private or shared

Taxis from Kampot to Sihanoukville cost $30, although you will almost always be quoted more. Because all transport in Sihanoukville is affected by a mafia-type situation (don’t ask me) taxi prices from Sihanoukville to Kampot are usually $35 to $40. You can book a taxi from Sihanoukville to Kampot or vice-versa online in advance if you want to save yourself the headache of dealing with it in person.

Taxis are usually Toyota Camrys, that can seat four passengers. However, the trunk almost always have a propane, so it will only hold one or two bags. If you have a lot of luggage, you’ll need to keep it in the car so only plan for three passengers.

If you book through your hotel or a travel agent, you will probably pay a surcharge of $5. SUV taxis are also sometimes available for an extra charge. The best way to find a taxi between Kampot and Sihanoukville is to ask a tuk tuk driver, because they invariably have a taxi driver brother or friend. We’ve used a Sihanoukville-based driver named Try, his phone number is 097 666 6051. He does this route often for $30 each way.

Sihanoukville-based taxi driver Mr. Dara does the trip between Kampot and Sihanoukville in either direction for $30. He is very friendly and speaks English and we had a good trip with him recently. He drives a Toyota Camry but has plans to upgrade to a Lexus. His numbers are 016 266 393 and 097 591 8043.

Move to Cambodia reader Kayla recommends Mr. Rany, a Kampot tuk tuk driver whose business card bills him as “the man who connects you with the local.” Rany speaks English and can organize a taxi for $30. His phone number is 092 739 695 and his email address is ranytuktukdriver@gmail.com.

You can also head to Psar Leu [map] in Sihanoukville or at the Kampot bus station [map]. There, you can hire a private taxi directly or wait around for a shared taxi. Shared taxis cost $5 per person, and usually carry six or seven passengers. If you want the front seat, you’ll have to have a seatmate or pay for two seats. Shared taxis offer little in the value or comfort categories, but offer an “authentic Cambodia experience.”

Bus/van

While there are no proper buses currently, there are several van companies that go between Sihanoukville and Kampot. Kampot Tours and Champa Mekong Tours are the most popular with expats.

Kampot Tours and Travel is a Kampot and Vietnam-based travel agency that has a mini-bus service that runs between Kampot and Sihanoukville. The cost is $5 and they run twice daily between Kampot to Sihanoukville. The current times are 8:00 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. from Kampot to Sihanoukville and at 7:30 a.m. and 11:30 a.m. from Sihanoukville to Kampot. As usual it’s best to check the times to make sure they haven’t changed. The trip takes two hours and they offer free pickup. Tickets can be booked at the Kampot Tours office, your hotel or guesthouse or any local travel agent.

Kampot Tours and Travel
One block off the riverside, near Kronat Park, Kampot
T: 092 125 556; 097 982 8756
www.kampottours-travel.com

Tickets on Champa Mekong from Kampot to Sihanoukville cost $5 per person, and includes pickup from your hotel or guesthouse. From Sihanoukville to Kampot the price rises mysteriously to $6, and they will pick you up from the travel agent where you booked the ticket. The vans run at 8:00 a.m., 11:00 a.m., 1:30 p.m., and 3:30 p.m. in both directions. Schedules change regularly, so it’s worth checking.

Champa Mekong Tours
Ek Reach Street (also called Old Market Street. Next to the park, one block in from the riverside), Kampot
T: 023 696 8000

Ochheuteal Street, Sihanoukville [map]
T: 034 693 8282; 016 947 939; 088 520 3167
facebook.com/Champa-Mekong-TravelTours

Expat Q&A: Came for a job, stayed for the pancakes

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about their lives here, and what they know now that they wish they had known when they first moved to Cambodia. This week we talk with Martin Hablitzel, who moved from Amsterdam to Siem Reap bringing an art event series called PANCART with him.

PANCART Siem Reap

Martin came to Siem Reap for work, but stayed to make pancakes.

MTC: What do you do in Cambodia?

“Starting with the job-thing: I work as a Project Manager in IT with Pactics. My passion remains with PANCART. PANCART was born as an art event series bringing together local and international communities to cherish pancakes and art. It is growing into an art movement with a strong, yet open and welcoming network exploring progressive ways to share with, to learn from and to teach each other. As part of PANCART I invite friends over to a place (my house or public venues), two or three of them present their art — whatever that may be — and the PANCART crew and I make pancakes for everybody.

My life is quite balanced out between a corporate job and a more creative unfolding hobby. I am very lucky that I can work for Pactics, as this company sets sustainable and socially responsible standards and shows that it is also possible to be a successful company while treating employees fairly and using environment-friendly production practices. It is a motivating setup!

In addition, Siem Reap is a great place to innovate and develop my PANCART project further. I get to know and connect people in the art scene and beyond, organize events and build a community in an atmosphere of mutual respect and curiosity for each other.”

Siem Reap PANCART

PANCART is an event series in Siem Reap that aims to bring together local communities through the medium of pancakes and art.

What advice would you give to a new expat moving to Cambodia? What do you wish you had known before you came?

“Moving here was quite straightforward, but only because I have been here once before. In March 2014 I came to Siem Reap for the first time (actually, my first time in Asia at all) and I volunteered as an English teacher for the Cambodian NGO ‘Build your Future Today‘ in Siem Reap. While doing that I fell in love with the country and decided I would come back and live here.

So that is also the advice I would give: Come first and stay for a couple of weeks (I would say at least four) and you will feel and find out if you like it. Cambodia and especially Siem Reap is a beautiful place to move to, with great people, interesting culture and history, but also a poor country. So you should be aware of that. In general Cambodia is an easy country to move to concerning paper work (visa, work permit).”

What things are you doing in Cambodia that you might not be able to do if you were still at home?

“Organizing PANCART seems to be easier here than back home in Europe. For example, some months ago I moved into a huge house that became the pancARTHOUSE. I ‘collect’ art and artists to live and be creative there. This development would not have been possible in Amsterdam where I used to live, as I would just not have been able to afford it. I had already had the idea of a pancARTHOUSE back in Amsterdam before I went to Cambodia the first time after watching a documentary about Andy Warhol’s New York-based ‘Factory.’

When I saw that it was instantly clear to me: “This is PANCART.” Bringing artists together at a place and let them do whatever they want: movies, installations, music album recordings… For now I am very happy that I found the pancARTHOUSE and I am very optimistic that PANCART grows further to become an art movement uniting people and communities who try to work for a better world. Sokuntheary, a Yoga-teacher-to-be, points out why I came to Cambodia and why the evolution of PANCART goes so well:

‘…in the third world and under the hot sun, we tend to live tenderly, smoothly and with the flow of our hearts…’

As PANCART represents also my mission to become more intuitive I found out, a lot of people here in Siem Reap are on the same journey and pancakes and art is just a very good common denominator to synchronize and making awesomethings happen with cooperative vigor.”

Read: Interview with Robert Carmichael, author of When Clouds Fell From the Sky

With When Clouds Fell From the Sky, a book released earlier this year, journalist Robert Carmichael gives a compelling account of a Cambodian diplomat who disappeared in Democratic Kampuchea, and his family’s decades-long search to find out what happened to him during the reign of the Khmer Rouge. If you haven’t read it yet, read our full review of When Clouds Fell From the Sky. I caught up with author Robert Carmichael and talked to him about the book.

Author Robert Carmichael

Author Robert Carmichael in Phnom Penh. Photo by Anna Clare Spelman.

MTC: How did you come to write When Clouds Fell From the Sky?

RC: I didn’t write the first draft until 2012, more than a decade after I first lived in Cambodia. I’d worked here between 2001-2003 as the managing editor of the Phnom Penh Post newspaper. I then left Cambodia — for good, I thought at the time — but ended up returning in early 2009 to cover the war crimes trial of Comrade Duch, the commandant of the Khmer Rouge’s most notorious prison code-named S-21. I met the two women, Martine Lefeuvre and her daughter Neary Ouk, whose life stories are at the center of my book quite by accident over breakfast along the riverside in Phnom Penh just days before Duch’s trial began in 2009. The idea for a book that would encompass Duch’s trial, Neary’s and Martine’s stories, and Cambodia’s history took shape over the following year.

MTC: In the book, you explore the idea of ambiguous loss, and how much pain this lack of closure has caused family members of Khmer Rouge victims. Can you tell us a little bit more about this?

RC: “Ambiguous loss” is a term used to describe how people cope with the disappearance (and presumed death, rather than the provable death) of a loved one — and that was an all-too-common occurrence under the Khmer Rouge. With no proof of death, no body, relatives typically cling to the hope that their loved one is still alive, and that in turn prevents them from being able to mourn properly. Ambiguous loss has been described as “the most devastating [of all losses in personal relationships] because it remains unclear, indeterminate.” It took years before Neary found out what had happened to her father, Ket.

The damage done by ambiguous loss is compounded — as Neary told me of her father’s disappearance into Duch’s prison S-21 — by continually running through in one’s mind all of the horrors to which the victim might have been subjected. In a place like S-21, the list of potential horrors was long indeed.

Martine and Neary When the Clouds Fell

Martine and Neary, whose story When Clouds Fell From the Sky revolves around. Photo courtesy of Neary Ouk.

MTC: Do you think the Khmer Rouge tribunal has been successful in providing closure to victims? What lessons can we learn from the tribunal?

RC: That depends on the person assessing it. For some victims and survivors, it has been a useful, even vital, part of coming to terms with what happened to them or to their loved ones. For others it has varied from less useful to being of no use at all.

For Neary and Martine the tribunal, while imperfect, was helpful on certain levels. But it can never undo what was done, and that impossible task really is the only perfect solution.

As for lessons learned: it’s important to acknowledge that tribunals (or truth and reconciliation commissions, as my country, South Africa, had) are a poor solution for failure to have acted in the first place. And so ultimately what I draw from this tribunal is that we all have a moral obligation to act in order to prevent or minimize crimes against humanity, and it’s far better to do take action at the time than it is to create judicial processes that try a handful of the guilty years later. That’s an argument that I make towards the end of the book.

MTC: In your opinion, does Duch have a true understanding of his own culpability for the crimes that took place at S-21?

RC: During his trial Duch sought to convince the bench and the rest of us that he recognized his culpability, that he would not try to evade responsibility, and that he was truly sorry for what he’d done. But his actions in the final hours of his trial showed that was in some degree bogus, although only Duch knows how much of it was fabricated. Duch’s psychological profile made for interesting reading, and provides a helpful assessment of the man who ran S-21 and the man on trial decades later, which I address in the book.

I do subscribe to the thoughts of witness (and one of Duch’s former prisoners) Francois Bizot, who said that it doesn’t help to look at Duch as a monster, because to do so is to evade important truths about our common humanity. Duch, who is not a sociopath, is no more of a monster than you or me, even though his actions clearly mark him out as someone who went far beyond what most of us think we would do. My feeling is that we shouldn’t be too smug about where we sit and where Duch sits. Had we been in his situation I suspect many of us would have made choices that would have compromised our humanity as his compromised his humanity.

Trying to work out Duch’s motivations at trial is no easy task, and in trying to do so I was helped by two people who know a lot about Duch. The first was academic and writer David Chandler, who told me that he believed Duch did regret what he’d done as a younger man, but that he didn’t see himself as guilty “and there’s a difference.”

Filmmaker Rithy Panh, who spent hundreds of hours interviewing Duch prior to trial, was deeply disappointed at Duch’s switch of defense. Rithy summarized it by saying Duch had “had an opportunity to get back his humanity [during his trial], and he failed.”

S21 Khmer Rouge

S-21, the Khmer Rouge prison, has been turned into a museum (of sorts).

MTC: Reading your book, I got the the distinct sense that his conversion to Christianity was a way to avoid spiritual punishment. Do you think this is the case?

As for the sincerity or otherwise of Duch’s conversion to Christianity: again, that’s a tough one. Duch surely believes it’s genuine, though he clearly doesn’t understand (or conveniently refused to practice) some key Christian concepts such as truth-telling. Frankly it’s hard not to have some cynicism about his conversion given that being baptized and having his sins washed away represented a profound benefit that simply isn’t possible under Buddhism. Duch has always been the most practical of men, and that surely would have appealed to him.

Like most people, Duch has always needed to believe in something bigger than himself — at first that was the purity of mathematics, then the purity of the Khmer Rouge’s revolution, and most recently the purity of Christianity, which he sees as a more potent force than communism because the church in Poland helped drive the demise of the Soviet Union.

MTC: How do you think that the legacy of the Khmer Rouge continues to affect the people of Cambodia and is anything being done to help young people in Cambodia understand what happened?

RC: Some work is being done: the school curriculum in Cambodia now has an excellent textbook — courtesy of DC-Cam and foreign donors — that accurately and fairly explains the causes and consequences of the Khmer Rouge’s rise to power. But there is far more that could and should be done, particularly in areas such as reconciliation, a topic I discuss towards the end of the book.

As for inherited PTSD symptoms: in recent years there has been some fascinating research on atrocity survivors (and their offspring) from a number of countries, and it seems clear that psychological damage is passed on down the generations. That’s easy enough to comprehend with, for example, children learning bad coping mechanisms from PTSD-afflicted parents. But there is another, linked, strand of research that suggests — and this study is very much in its infancy — that traumatic external factors could cause certain genes to mutate, and that this mutation can be passed on to new generations. If that is the case, then the situation of atrocities and their impact on the living is far more complex and damaging than we’ve thought to date.

S21 Toul Sleng Cambodia

Inside S-21, the former high school turned Khmer Rouge torture camp.

MTC: How do you feel about the term genocide being used for the Khmer Rouge atrocities?

RC: That’s a good question because what happened here is so often referred to as genocide that it’s become a truism. But genocide has a specific legal meaning, namely targeting a distinct religious, ethnic, etc group for elimination, and legally that’s not what the Khmer Rouge did, at least as regards the majority ethnic Khmer population.

Cambodia’s population, though, is made up of other groups too, and the trial of the two surviving Khmer Rouge leaders currently underway is assessing whether genocide was committed against ethnic Vietnamese and against Cham Muslims. So it’s likely that at some future date — should either or both of the two defendants live that long — the tribunal will hand down a ruling as to whether elements of Pol Pot’s rule did indeed constitute genocide against those two specific groups.

It’s worth stressing that the tribunal is not considering whether the Khmer Rouge practiced genocide against ethnic Khmers, because the assumption is that you can’t commit genocide against your own kind. Whether the term “genocide” needs an update (perhaps to reflect the Khmer Rouge’s practice of destroying a political class who happened to be composed largely of ethnic Khmers) is another debate, but I can’t see it happening in the near future. Some experts, though, do believe the term ought to be updated to include the act of targeting identifiable political groups, in which case what the Khmer Rouge did in Cambodia surely would qualify as genocide.

When Clouds Fell from the Sky: A Disappearance, A Daughter’s Search and Cambodia’s First War Criminal is available in Cambodia at Monument Books, and for Kindle onAmazon and Amazon UK. For more information, check out whencloudsfell.com.

Read: When Clouds Fell From the Sky by Robert Carmichael

In 1977, Cambodian diplomat Ouk Ket received a letter from the government of Democratic Kampuchea requesting that he return home from his post in Senegal to help rebuild his country. Like many other Khmer intellectuals who were unaware of the horrors taking place behind the country’s closed borders, he returned to Cambodia and was never heard from again. When Clouds Fell From the Sky, a book released this year by journalist Robert Carmichael, is a compelling account of Ket’s family’s decades-long search to find out what happened to him.

Robert Carmichael author

Author Robert Carmichael. Photo by Anna Clare Spelman.

The book masterfully weaves together the stories of Ket’s French wife, Martine, their daughter, Neary; and his executioner, Comrade Duch. By combining Ket’s family’s travails with historical accounts and coverage of the recent Khmer Rouge tribunal, Carmichael has created a riveting portrait of the Khmer Rouge’s rule and now the tribunal’s attempts to reckon with its legacy.

When Clouds Fell From the Sky draws on a daunting array of historical sources and interviews, offering the reader a surprisingly complete view of the Khmer Rouge era. It is the human element, though, that makes the book a page-turner. For example, Neary tells how Martine prepared to travel from France to Switzerland to meet Ket’s former boss at the embassy, now an ambassador for the Khmer Rouge government, in an effort to find out the fate of her husband, who had been missing for two years. Before their meeting, Martine cut her hair in the prescribed Khmer Rouge bob, put on a traditional Cambodian ankle-length silk sampot, and dressed her children in black pajamas and checkered kramas. Stories of Khmer Rouge atrocities can easily overwhelm readers, but this small glimpse of a desperate Frenchwoman cutting her hair and dressing her children as communists in an attempt to get any information about her missing husband is heart-wrenching. All the more so because, despite her efforts, her questions were met with evasions and lies and she had to return home with no news about her husband.

S21 Khmer Rouge

Inside S-21, the high school turned Khmer Rouge prison.

It is in the small details that When Clouds Fell From the Sky comes alive. In addition to Martine and Neary’s story, the book deals with what happened at the S-21 prison and the first Khmer Rouge Tribunal trial of Comrade Duch, which began in 2007. The head of internal security for the Khmer Rouge, Duch’s actions and psychology are described in fascinating detail, as Carmichael tries to understand how this outwardly mundane man came to become the regime’s most notorious executioner.

The portrait that Carmichael paints of Duch and the horrors of the infamous S-21 prison will make your skin crawl. Yet by portraying Ket and his life before S-21 so vividly, the book makes the monstrosities that took place there that much more vivid and horrifying. Duch apparently saw himself not as a vicious killer, but as a highly educated bureaucrat, one so obsessed with numbers and paperwork that he was able to ignore his own culpability and the enormity of his crimes. By the end of the regime, it is believed that more than 10,000 people were killed at S-21, all under Duch’s authority. Yet Duch fervently believes that he was just carrying out orders, doing what needed to be done.

S-21 photos

Photos of just a few of the victims of the Khmer Rouge that passed through S-21.

When Ket left for Democratic Kampuchea, his wife said to him, “If one day I were to learn that you are dead, I will never believe you died a natural death. You will have been murdered.” Ket turned to his wife and said with a smile, “But, honey, Cambodians are not savages.”

Most of us, hearing of the barbarities that took place in Democratic Kampuchea, might be tempted to believe just the opposite. But Carmichael, while not downplaying the atrocities of S-21, deftly makes the case that although Duch committed monstrous acts, he was not a sociopath or a monster. Rather, he was a man who sought a higher calling, and found that calling in his obedience to the Khmer Rouge regime.

When Clouds Fell from the Sky: A Disappearance, A Daughter’s Search and Cambodia’s First War Criminal is available in Cambodia at Monument Books, and for Kindle on Amazon and Amazon UK. I would highly recommend the book to those who might find other historical texts about the period dull or lifeless; I found it hard to put down! For more information, check out whencloudsfell.com. Later this week, we’ll have an interview with author Robert Carmichael on the Move to Cambodia blog.

Review: bARACA Rooms, Kampot

Kampot has no shortage of nice places to stay, especially with large estate-like set-ups on the river like Champa Lodge, Villa Vedici, Les Manguiers, The Greenhouse, and Ganesha Eco-Lodge.

Baraca Rooms Kampot

Southern Cambodia meets Southern Europe at bARACA.

But with the recent swell of restaurants in Kampot town (not to mention long-time favorites like caffeination station Cafe Espresso), the $4+ bumpy tuktuk rides from these lush compounds along dusty country roads are not something we fancy doing a few times a day during a relaxing Kampot get-away. So we find ourselves more frequently making the choice to staying in town, especially now that we can look forward to staying at bARACA Rooms just as much as to going to our favorite restaurants and watering holes.

Many of the guesthouses in Kampot are decent but unremarkable. But bARACA is great value, simple and stylish. A converted shophouse, the ground floor is a bar that features a changing assortment of homemade tapas from 5 to 11 p.m. every day except Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

bARACA rooms Kampot

bARACA rooms are simple, stylish, and budget.

The three double rooms and one family room are on the first floor, and guests can exit through a back door during the day when the bar is closed. The style is easy-going but creative and brings together local and international elements through bright mediterranean blues, yellows and reds, vintage floor tiles, and upcycled cooking oil cans for lamp shades.

The smaller double rooms are $12, the larger double room with hot water is $16 and the family room (two double beds) is $20. There is no air-conditioning, but rooms are all equipped with fans, mosquito nets, en suite bathrooms and WiFi. Be warned that rooms can be a bit noisy, so bring a pair of earplugs if you are a light sleeper.

baraca Kampot Cambodia

No frills, but cute as a button.

The bright rooms, combined with the tapas menu downstairs, makes you feel like you’ve entered a wormhole connecting southern Cambodia with southern Europe in the best way. The balcony on the back is just big enough for the folding chair or to lean on the railing and look out over the neighborhood rooftops. Being a block away from the river and two blocks from the Old Market is perfect for exploration of Kampot’s dining establishments new and old.

The four rooms fill up quickly, so book well ahead of your trip.

Baraca Rooms

#7 Street 726, Kampot
T: 011 290 434
baraca.org

Review: ARTillery Cafe, Siem Reap

I’m going to preface this review by saying that I’m not particularly interested in eating vegan, “paleo,” gluten-free, or raw foods. I’m more interested in fat, meat, and carbs (which is probably readily apparent). But when I heard that ARTillery, the cafe that started the organics and health food craze in Phnom Penh was opening a branch in Siem Reap, I figured I should check it out.

ARTillery Siem Reap

ARTillery cafe: focused on organic ingredients, environmental consciousness, and a commitment to local artists and makers.

ARTillery has three branches in Phnom Penh, and are known for their vegetarian selection, gluten-free choices, and raw desserts. They’ve spawned imitators in the Charming City, but until now, they’ve stayed clear of Siem Reap. But last month saw the soft opening of the cafe, and they’re fully up and running now. “What we hope to offer to the Siem Reap community is a wholesome menu inside the cafe, as well as the convenience of healthy products that you can takeaway,” Brittany Sims, the owner of the cafe, says. “We will have detox programs, grab and go, and a range of wholefood products along with fun events and gatherings to connect people who are passionate like we are about these topics.”

The menu’s top section says “Choose your lifestyle” and gives menu designations for those who follow vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, paleo, raw, and tree nut-free diets. Yes, there is a section for superfoods. There’s also a range of delicious smoothies and cold-pressed fruit and vegetable juices, served with environmentally friendly bamboo straws. Plus, ARTillery have 5-day juice and raw food cleanse programs for those in need of a Siem Reap detox…so just about every expat in town.

ARTillery Cafe Siem Reap

Whole foods, raw foods, organic foods…we tried them all.

I went with a few people and we ended up trying several things, including a few that I probably wouldn’t have ordered if I were on my own. The raw pizza was made with a flax and almond crust with a sun-dried tomato sauce, greens, and nut “cheese.” It wasn’t anything like a “real” pizza, and was closer to a salad. It was nice and fresh, but if I had only ordered this for lunch I would have left hungry — I’m guessing it was probably around 300 calories, at most.

We also tried the macro bowl, with brown rice, roasted and pickled veg, and goddess dressing. Again, maybe not something I would have ordered, but it was very tasty and felt like a complete meal. My favorite was the falafel plate, probably because it was one of the few items on the menu with honest-to-goodness carbohydrates. It came with herbed falafel, hummus, babaganoush, salad, and pita bread. This was the only dish that we tried that made me resentful to be sharing; I wanted it all to myself.

Siem Reap organics

This cheesecake is both raw and vegan, and it still tastes good.

They’ve got three desserts: sorbet, a raw cheesecake, and raw energy “bliss balls” made from raw cacao, goji berries, nuts, and seeds. The passion fruit topped cheesecake was pretty good — not as good as a New York cheesecake, but surprisingly nice for a raw, vegan dessert. The bliss balls were anything but, and tasted more like a treat I would have fed my parakeet. But I suppose that some people might like that sort of thing, so I’ll withhold judgement.

I thought it would make sense to talk to an actual healthy person about the menu, so I asked Brittany for her favorite dishes. “From the drinks menu, the almond buttercup smoothie is practically a breakfast ritual for me, and then the turmeric tonic is my go-to choice in the afternoon,” she says. “Favorite light lunch would have to be zucchini noodles with basil cashew pesto…but if I’m craving something a bit heartier, I always go for the macro bowl with extra avocado!”

ARTillery Siem Reap

ARTillery Cafe in Siem Reap is where the healthy people hang out.

ARTillery clearly fills a niche in the market in Siem Reap. Sister Srey and Hive may be frolicking in the surf, but ARTillery is swimming out past the breakers when it comes to juicing and catering to those with specific dietary needs. The open cafe space is light and airy, with local artwork on the walls and custom-made old-fashioned Khmer tiles. I have no doubt the cafe will be a success with both expats and visitors to Siem Reap.

It was only after we finished our lunch that I looked at the breakfast section of the menu, and saw an incongruously listed smoked salmon bagel, taunting me with it’s fatty, carby, cream cheesy goodness. Next time, ARTillery, next time.

ARTillery Cafe

Wat Bo Road, next to Maison 557, Siem Reap
T: 085 856 511
facebook.com/artillerysiemreap

Expat Q&A: Bring gum, stay fit, and know Cambodia’s history

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they know now that they wish they had known when they first moved to Cambodia. This week we talk with Ashley Patton, who moved to Phnom Penh for an internship with the United Nations Assistance to the Khmer Rouge Trials (UNAKRT) program.

tuk tuk temples

Rolling by the temples, tuk tuk style.

MTC: Ashley, how did you end up an expat and what do you wish you had known before you moved to Cambodia?

“First of all, I wish that I had brought flip-flops, or thongs for you Aussies. I never, ever wear them back in the States but this became my cheapest purchase (Central Market flips on Day 5 for a couple bucks) that I used just about everyday. I wish I had brought cuter, better quality ones from home.

Next, Netflix does not work  cancel your subscription before you leave home. Yes, you can probably find a way to circumvent the restriction but it was not worth it for me, so I ended up paying $10 a month (the equivalent of two meals with drinks in Cambo!) for the five months I was there.

Bring those little pleasures from your home that you might not be able to get, or if you can find you will certainly pay the price for – gum, almonds, dark chocolate, Vegemite, any sort of hair or skin product that doesn’t include bleach for whitening purposes, etc. Obviously not a necessity (and a rather First World Problems suggestion) but for me, having my favorite 5® Wrigley’s gum was crucial.

Next, as a runner, this was important for me. You can keep up an exercise routine while in Cambodia without paying more than you would in your own country…cough, The Place. Yes, it’s easy to move there and gain 10 pounds (or kilos, whatever metric floats or sinks your boat) on the yummy, cheap food and drank. However, you don’t have to. My favorite outdoor running route was around the Independence Monument early in the morning. Saw some of my best sunrises there. I’ve also heard great things about the Olympic Stadium in the evenings. Beyond running, I enjoyed yoga at Nataraj Yoga Studio and boot camp at Crossfit Amatak. A lot of my friends also got into Muay Thai boxing.

Related note: if your favorite running shoes are almost on the outs, buy new ones before leaving home. The training shoes you’ll find in Cambo are either crazy expensive or fake.

Use the networks on Facebook that have already been set up. They’re well used for a reason. internet community where you can find almost anything.

On an important and more serious note, do research on the history of Cambodia. It’s a very recent and quite sad history, one that has greatly influenced the way the nation has developed today. Cambodians are very happy and proud people, but the majority of those over the age of 40 have had a dark chapter in their life. Be an informed expat and educate yourself before moving. You’ll be a better temporary citizen for it.

Last enjoy Cambo! Take weekend trips throughout the country when you can. It’s easy and cheap, and absolutely beautiful. While international travel is also easy, there are some gems in Cambodia that will make you fall in love even more with the country. Beyond the obvious Siem Reap, check out Kampot, Preah Vihear, Koh Rong Sanloem, Mondulkiri, and Kep, just to name a few.

P.S. ‘Cheers’ is chul moi, not choy moi. Remember that.”