Read: When Clouds Fell From the Sky by Robert Carmichael

In 1977, Cambodian diplomat Ouk Ket received a letter from the government of Democratic Kampuchea requesting that he return home from his post in Senegal to help rebuild his country. Like many other Khmer intellectuals who were unaware of the horrors taking place behind the country’s closed borders, he returned to Cambodia and was never heard from again. When Clouds Fell From the Sky, a book released this year by journalist Robert Carmichael, is a compelling account of Ket’s family’s decades-long search to find out what happened to him.

Robert Carmichael author

Author Robert Carmichael. Photo by Anna Clare Spelman.

The book masterfully weaves together the stories of Ket’s French wife, Martine, their daughter, Neary; and his executioner, Comrade Duch. By combining Ket’s family’s travails with historical accounts and coverage of the recent Khmer Rouge tribunal, Carmichael has created a riveting portrait of the Khmer Rouge’s rule and now the tribunal’s attempts to reckon with its legacy.

When Clouds Fell From the Sky draws on a daunting array of historical sources and interviews, offering the reader a surprisingly complete view of the Khmer Rouge era. It is the human element, though, that makes the book a page-turner. For example, Neary tells how Martine prepared to travel from France to Switzerland to meet Ket’s former boss at the embassy, now an ambassador for the Khmer Rouge government, in an effort to find out the fate of her husband, who had been missing for two years. Before their meeting, Martine cut her hair in the prescribed Khmer Rouge bob, put on a traditional Cambodian ankle-length silk sampot, and dressed her children in black pajamas and checkered kramas. Stories of Khmer Rouge atrocities can easily overwhelm readers, but this small glimpse of a desperate Frenchwoman cutting her hair and dressing her children as communists in an attempt to get any information about her missing husband is heart-wrenching. All the more so because, despite her efforts, her questions were met with evasions and lies and she had to return home with no news about her husband.

S21 Khmer Rouge

Inside S-21, the high school turned Khmer Rouge prison.

It is in the small details that When Clouds Fell From the Sky comes alive. In addition to Martine and Neary’s story, the book deals with what happened at the S-21 prison and the first Khmer Rouge Tribunal trial of Comrade Duch, which began in 2007. The head of internal security for the Khmer Rouge, Duch’s actions and psychology are described in fascinating detail, as Carmichael tries to understand how this outwardly mundane man came to become the regime’s most notorious executioner.

The portrait that Carmichael paints of Duch and the horrors of the infamous S-21 prison will make your skin crawl. Yet by portraying Ket and his life before S-21 so vividly, the book makes the monstrosities that took place there that much more vivid and horrifying. Duch apparently saw himself not as a vicious killer, but as a highly educated bureaucrat, one so obsessed with numbers and paperwork that he was able to ignore his own culpability and the enormity of his crimes. By the end of the regime, it is believed that more than 10,000 people were killed at S-21, all under Duch’s authority. Yet Duch fervently believes that he was just carrying out orders, doing what needed to be done.

S-21 photos

Photos of just a few of the victims of the Khmer Rouge that passed through S-21.

When Ket left for Democratic Kampuchea, his wife said to him, “If one day I were to learn that you are dead, I will never believe you died a natural death. You will have been murdered.” Ket turned to his wife and said with a smile, “But, honey, Cambodians are not savages.”

Most of us, hearing of the barbarities that took place in Democratic Kampuchea, might be tempted to believe just the opposite. But Carmichael, while not downplaying the atrocities of S-21, deftly makes the case that although Duch committed monstrous acts, he was not a sociopath or a monster. Rather, he was a man who sought a higher calling, and found that calling in his obedience to the Khmer Rouge regime.

When Clouds Fell from the Sky: A Disappearance, A Daughter’s Search and Cambodia’s First War Criminal is available in Cambodia at Monument Books, and for Kindle on Amazon and Amazon UK. I would highly recommend the book to those who might find other historical texts about the period dull or lifeless; I found it hard to put down! For more information, check out whencloudsfell.com. Later this week, we’ll have an interview with author Robert Carmichael on the Move to Cambodia blog.

Review: bARACA Rooms, Kampot

Kampot has no shortage of nice places to stay, especially with large estate-like set-ups on the river like Champa Lodge, Villa Vedici, Les Manguiers, The Greenhouse, and Ganesha Eco-Lodge.

Baraca Rooms Kampot

Southern Cambodia meets Southern Europe at bARACA.

But with the recent swell of restaurants in Kampot town (not to mention long-time favorites like caffeination station Cafe Espresso), the $4+ bumpy tuktuk rides from these lush compounds along dusty country roads are not something we fancy doing a few times a day during a relaxing Kampot get-away. So we find ourselves more frequently making the choice to staying in town, especially now that we can look forward to staying at bARACA Rooms just as much as to going to our favorite restaurants and watering holes.

Many of the guesthouses in Kampot are decent but unremarkable. But bARACA is great value, simple and stylish. A converted shophouse, the ground floor is a bar that features a changing assortment of homemade tapas from 5 to 11 p.m. every day except Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

bARACA rooms Kampot

bARACA rooms are simple, stylish, and budget.

The three double rooms and one family room are on the first floor, and guests can exit through a back door during the day when the bar is closed. The style is easy-going but creative and brings together local and international elements through bright mediterranean blues, yellows and reds, vintage floor tiles, and upcycled cooking oil cans for lamp shades.

The smaller double rooms are $12, the larger double room with hot water is $16 and the family room (two double beds) is $20. There is no air-conditioning, but rooms are all equipped with fans, mosquito nets, en suite bathrooms and WiFi. Be warned that rooms can be a bit noisy, so bring a pair of earplugs if you are a light sleeper.

baraca Kampot Cambodia

No frills, but cute as a button.

The bright rooms, combined with the tapas menu downstairs, makes you feel like you’ve entered a wormhole connecting southern Cambodia with southern Europe in the best way. The balcony on the back is just big enough for the folding chair or to lean on the railing and look out over the neighborhood rooftops. Being a block away from the river and two blocks from the Old Market is perfect for exploration of Kampot’s dining establishments new and old.

The four rooms fill up quickly, so book well ahead of your trip.

Baraca Rooms

#7 Street 726, Kampot
T: 011 290 434
baraca.org

Review: ARTillery Cafe, Siem Reap

I’m going to preface this review by saying that I’m not particularly interested in eating vegan, “paleo,” gluten-free, or raw foods. I’m more interested in fat, meat, and carbs (which is probably readily apparent). But when I heard that ARTillery, the cafe that started the organics and health food craze in Phnom Penh was opening a branch in Siem Reap, I figured I should check it out.

ARTillery Siem Reap

ARTillery cafe: focused on organic ingredients, environmental consciousness, and a commitment to local artists and makers.

ARTillery has three branches in Phnom Penh, and are known for their vegetarian selection, gluten-free choices, and raw desserts. They’ve spawned imitators in the Charming City, but until now, they’ve stayed clear of Siem Reap. But last month saw the soft opening of the cafe, and they’re fully up and running now. “What we hope to offer to the Siem Reap community is a wholesome menu inside the cafe, as well as the convenience of healthy products that you can takeaway,” Brittany Sims, the owner of the cafe, says. “We will have detox programs, grab and go, and a range of wholefood products along with fun events and gatherings to connect people who are passionate like we are about these topics.”

The menu’s top section says “Choose your lifestyle” and gives menu designations for those who follow vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, paleo, raw, and tree nut-free diets. Yes, there is a section for superfoods. There’s also a range of delicious smoothies and cold-pressed fruit and vegetable juices, served with environmentally friendly bamboo straws. Plus, ARTillery have 5-day juice and raw food cleanse programs for those in need of a Siem Reap detox…so just about every expat in town.

ARTillery Cafe Siem Reap

Whole foods, raw foods, organic foods…we tried them all.

I went with a few people and we ended up trying several things, including a few that I probably wouldn’t have ordered if I were on my own. The raw pizza was made with a flax and almond crust with a sun-dried tomato sauce, greens, and nut “cheese.” It wasn’t anything like a “real” pizza, and was closer to a salad. It was nice and fresh, but if I had only ordered this for lunch I would have left hungry — I’m guessing it was probably around 300 calories, at most.

We also tried the macro bowl, with brown rice, roasted and pickled veg, and goddess dressing. Again, maybe not something I would have ordered, but it was very tasty and felt like a complete meal. My favorite was the falafel plate, probably because it was one of the few items on the menu with honest-to-goodness carbohydrates. It came with herbed falafel, hummus, babaganoush, salad, and pita bread. This was the only dish that we tried that made me resentful to be sharing; I wanted it all to myself.

Siem Reap organics

This cheesecake is both raw and vegan, and it still tastes good.

They’ve got three desserts: sorbet, a raw cheesecake, and raw energy “bliss balls” made from raw cacao, goji berries, nuts, and seeds. The passion fruit topped cheesecake was pretty good — not as good as a New York cheesecake, but surprisingly nice for a raw, vegan dessert. The bliss balls were anything but, and tasted more like a treat I would have fed my parakeet. But I suppose that some people might like that sort of thing, so I’ll withhold judgement.

I thought it would make sense to talk to an actual healthy person about the menu, so I asked Brittany for her favorite dishes. “From the drinks menu, the almond buttercup smoothie is practically a breakfast ritual for me, and then the turmeric tonic is my go-to choice in the afternoon,” she says. “Favorite light lunch would have to be zucchini noodles with basil cashew pesto…but if I’m craving something a bit heartier, I always go for the macro bowl with extra avocado!”

ARTillery Siem Reap

ARTillery Cafe in Siem Reap is where the healthy people hang out.

ARTillery clearly fills a niche in the market in Siem Reap. Sister Srey and Hive may be frolicking in the surf, but ARTillery is swimming out past the breakers when it comes to juicing and catering to those with specific dietary needs. The open cafe space is light and airy, with local artwork on the walls and custom-made old-fashioned Khmer tiles. I have no doubt the cafe will be a success with both expats and visitors to Siem Reap.

It was only after we finished our lunch that I looked at the breakfast section of the menu, and saw an incongruously listed smoked salmon bagel, taunting me with it’s fatty, carby, cream cheesy goodness. Next time, ARTillery, next time.

ARTillery Cafe

Wat Bo Road, next to Maison 557, Siem Reap
T: 085 856 511
facebook.com/artillerysiemreap

Expat Q&A: Bring gum, stay fit, and know Cambodia’s history

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they know now that they wish they had known when they first moved to Cambodia. This week we talk with Ashley Patton, who moved to Phnom Penh for an internship with the United Nations Assistance to the Khmer Rouge Trials (UNAKRT) program.

tuk tuk temples

Rolling by the temples, tuk tuk style.

MTC: Ashley, how did you end up an expat and what do you wish you had known before you moved to Cambodia?

“First of all, I wish that I had brought flip-flops, or thongs for you Aussies. I never, ever wear them back in the States but this became my cheapest purchase (Central Market flips on Day 5 for a couple bucks) that I used just about everyday. I wish I had brought cuter, better quality ones from home.

Next, Netflix does not work  cancel your subscription before you leave home. Yes, you can probably find a way to circumvent the restriction but it was not worth it for me, so I ended up paying $10 a month (the equivalent of two meals with drinks in Cambo!) for the five months I was there.

Bring those little pleasures from your home that you might not be able to get, or if you can find you will certainly pay the price for – gum, almonds, dark chocolate, Vegemite, any sort of hair or skin product that doesn’t include bleach for whitening purposes, etc. Obviously not a necessity (and a rather First World Problems suggestion) but for me, having my favorite 5® Wrigley’s gum was crucial.

Next, as a runner, this was important for me. You can keep up an exercise routine while in Cambodia without paying more than you would in your own country…cough, The Place. Yes, it’s easy to move there and gain 10 pounds (or kilos, whatever metric floats or sinks your boat) on the yummy, cheap food and drank. However, you don’t have to. My favorite outdoor running route was around the Independence Monument early in the morning. Saw some of my best sunrises there. I’ve also heard great things about the Olympic Stadium in the evenings. Beyond running, I enjoyed yoga at Nataraj Yoga Studio and boot camp at Crossfit Amatak. A lot of my friends also got into Muay Thai boxing.

Related note: if your favorite running shoes are almost on the outs, buy new ones before leaving home. The training shoes you’ll find in Cambo are either crazy expensive or fake.

Use the networks on Facebook that have already been set up. They’re well used for a reason. internet community where you can find almost anything.

On an important and more serious note, do research on the history of Cambodia. It’s a very recent and quite sad history, one that has greatly influenced the way the nation has developed today. Cambodians are very happy and proud people, but the majority of those over the age of 40 have had a dark chapter in their life. Be an informed expat and educate yourself before moving. You’ll be a better temporary citizen for it.

Last enjoy Cambo! Take weekend trips throughout the country when you can. It’s easy and cheap, and absolutely beautiful. While international travel is also easy, there are some gems in Cambodia that will make you fall in love even more with the country. Beyond the obvious Siem Reap, check out Kampot, Preah Vihear, Koh Rong Sanloem, Mondulkiri, and Kep, just to name a few.

P.S. ‘Cheers’ is chul moi, not choy moi. Remember that.”

The “new and improved” Bokor Mountain

Bokor Mountain remains one of the main tourist sights around Kampot. Formerly a French colonial hill station resort and site of a royal summer vacation home, modern Bokor has made itself much easier to access and has more “attractions.” While many claim that Bokor has lost all appeal to tourists, just scratching the surface one can see a picture of past and present Cambodia.

Bokor Hill Station

Even on sunny days the Bokor Hill Station ghost town is covered in a gloomy mist.

As with many historic areas around Cambodia, Bokor Mountain and many of the old buildings on it have been restored rather than preserved, and rights to develop the land nearby have been sold to foreign business owners. However, the new road means that visiting Bokor is possible not only during the Water Festival, but year round.

Bokor Mountain is about 37km from Kampot. A taxi will set you back around $40 and minivan tours can be had for $10 per person, but the easiest way to get there is by moto. To get there from Kampot town center, go across the New Bridge and go straight through the roundabout (second right-hand turn for those unfamiliar with roundabout orientation). It is a straight shot on National Road 3 until you reach the checkpoint and park entrance. On a moto, you’ll pay 2,000 riel per vehicle to enter. Make sure to keep the stub for the checkpoint at the top of the hill!

Bokor Hill Station

The new road means that Bokor Hill Station is accessible year-round.

If you are on a moto and didn’t fill up in Kampot, we recommend getting a liter or two at the fuel station just outside of the gate — we saw prices jump 50% on the mountain and places to fuel up can be a bit far between. It is about 29km from the base of the mountain to the old Casino (the 60km round trip is about a liter and a half on your typical 2011 100cc Honda Wave), plus another 12km or so each way if you are visiting the waterfall as well.

Beware of reckless drivers, slick wet sections of road, and pockets of fog and rain that can cluster on the side of the mountain on your ride up. Even if the day is clear down in Kampot, weather going up and on top of Bokor Mountain is unpredictable. After taking on the seven or so hairpin turns on Road 32 up the mountain, you will know you’ve hit smoother riding when you see a giant statue on a small hill close to the road on your right. Lok Yeay Mao is a deity to protect travelers, and this is the biggest and highest shrine to her. On the opposite side of the road, there is a small pull-off area and an old brick and concrete structure. This is the remains of King Norodom Sihanouk’s modest “Black Palace.”

Bokor Mountain casino

The new Bokor Mountain casino is an architectural curiosity in its own right.

When you get to the checkpoint at the top, there is a traffic circle — take a right to the Popokvil Waterfall, the Japanese Farm, and the field of One Hundred Rice Fields; and left to the new casino, the ghostly Bokor Palace Hotel, the Catholic Church and Wat Sampov Pram. Google Maps is not particularly helpful on Bokor Mountain, but there are signs pointing to many of the main points of interest, and Thansur Bokor Resort has a helpful map.

Popokvil Waterfall is literally the end of the road (OK, you can go about 50m further to an empty guard shack where you realize you need to turn around). Oddly, the parking area is dominated by a billboard for Thansur Bokor Highland Resort, but if you walk in, past the large mint green food area on the left, you will see the river hitting wide, flat blocks of rock that make up the two-tiered falls. There are no official paths here, hike around at your own risk. The falls are most impressive during rainy season.

Bokor Mountain waterfall

The waterfalls at Bokor Mountain are most impressive during rainy season.

Coming back towards the roundabout from the waterfall, if you take a right at the big turnoff for Japanese Farm (private, no visitors) and carry on for about 5km you will see the 100 Rice Fields on your left. We didn’t see any official sign marking the site, although we were staring through rain and thick fog (apologies for lack of photo). The 100 Rice Fields are not really rice fields of course. You can see those anywhere in Cambodia. They are a rock formation with grass growing in between the straight-line crevices, allegedly making it look like an aerial view of a bunch of rice fields. If you have time to kill on the mountain or want to take this road as a back way to Wat Sampov Pram and/or the 500 Rice Fields Meditation Area.

Wat Sampov Pram is named for five rounded rocks that are said to resemble boats (sampov) that stand near the path between the buddha statue and the main wat. During our visit, the lower parts of the compound were being renovated, but we had great views around the small pagoda covered in colorful lichens (remember to take your shoes off if you want to go inside) and down the escarpment to the ocean. If you took a left at the roundabout, you can also get to Wat Sampov Pram by turning right just before the Chinese pagoda after the New Casino and following the road past several rows of new shophouse/apartment construction.

Bokor Hill Station church

The old Catholic Church is a reminder of Bokor Hill Station’s French colonial past.

Further down this left arm of the road, you will find the Old Catholic Church on the righthand side. The building is striking and although now mostly empty save some modern offerings, has a stillness that can be serene or creepy depending on the weather. Off to the left and behind the church is a path up a small hill; there are some large rocks to climb back here so be careful if knees, ankles or general mobility is an issue. At the top is the remains of the floor of a structure and fragments of old tiles, but on a clear day the view down to the coast is beautiful.

Bokor Palace Hotel

The old Bokor Palace Hotel figured prominently in the Matt Dillon movie City of Ghosts.

A few more kilometers brings you to the Bokor Palace Hotel, also known as the old casino (right side, parking on the left). You can wander through the old corridors, grand halls and winding stairs and imagine what it must have looked like with chandeliers, huge windows and ornate furnishings. Some of the walls (interior and exterior) have been patched up, but it retains that sense that “things happened here.” Off of the courtyard behind the old casino is a low wall and, yes, more great views down the steep side of the mountain to the plains and rice flats below and out to sea.

The top of Bokor Mountain is often misty and much cooler than the area below, so we recommend taking a raincoat or at least long sleeves, even if it is not rainy season.

Wine and cheese in Phnom Penh (…and then there was one)

Expat life is associated with a peculiar kind of nostalgia; every change comes with twice as many complaints about the way things “used to be.” For pampered expats in Cambodia’s capital, this nostalgia is particularly strong around wine and cheese nights.

wine and cheese phnom penh

Gone are the halycon days of affordable wine and cheese nights at the InterCon.

For several years, the flagship “wine and cheese night” was immodestly hosted by the Intercontinental Hotel on the last Wednesday of every month. A selection of imported wines and cheeses that could not be found at local grocery stores were set out, as well as fancy nibbles like smoked salmon and raclette with ham, potatoes, and gherkins. For a long time, this two-and-a-half hour event was a relatively affordable $25, making it the place to be seen and catch up with expats across the spectrum from Embassy workers to teachers. In 2013, the price started creeping up to $35, and the crowd thinned considerably. Finally, the Intercon’s monthly wine and cheese night came to an end in December 2014, in favor of less regular “Wine, cheese and All That Jazz.” But at $45++ for only three hours to get your fill, the sparkle was off. The most recent “All that Jazz” was in March 2015 and no others have been announced since (we’ve been checking).

Short lived and too good to be true: $20 unlimited wine and cheese at Khema.

Short lived and too good to be true: $20 unlimited wine and cheese at Khema.

Khema in Aeon Mall was the new hope of wine and cheese lovers in Phnom Penh (and one of the only reasons besides the movie theater and Japanese dollar stores we brave the parking lots at Aeon). Khema offered a $20 wine, cheese, and charcuterie night every Thursday, and rightfully suggested phoning ahead to make reservations after word got out in its first few weeks. Although the only wine on offer was their Hobnob “house” red or white, the staff were generally friendly and attentive about refills of wine, bread and meat, and cheese. Unfortunately, this also seems to have been unsustainable, as Khema Aeon has closed. Khema is to have a second incarnation on Streets 51 and 242 in the ground floor of the Aruneas Hotel (across the street from International SOS Clinic) with a deli and wine and cheese offerings, but it remains to be seen whether the $20 wine and cheese nights will return in the new location.

phnom penh wine and cheese nights

The latest wine and cheese night may not be free-flow, but it’s ON A BOAT.

New on the scene is a cheese and charcuterie boat cruise aboard the Kanika on Wednesday evenings for $20. You can request either a mixed meat and cheese board, or just one or the other each time. Drinks are not included, but the house red was decent and $4 per glass, and draft beers and cocktails are also available from the bar onboard. We found the staff a little slow the whole hour and forty-five minute boat ride allowed only two rounds of cheese, meat, or cheese-and-charcuterie but the selection was generous and very tasty and our feedback about the service seemed constructively received so look forward to great bang for your buck here. The meats are from French-Khmer butcher and charcutier La Tradicion and the cheeses are imported from France. The Kanika leaves from the tour-boat section of Riverside (across from Wat Phnom) at 7 p.m., and reservations are recommended.

Have we somehow missed an underground Phnom Penh all-you-can-eat-and-drink wine and cheese event? Please let us know! Until then, we will keep buying our wine and cheese retail (stay tuned for a post on where to buy the best cheese and charcuterie in Phnom Penh).

Kanika Boat

Sisowath Quay, north of Street 94 intersection, Phnom Penh
T: 017 915 812; 089 848 959
facebook.com/kanikaboat

Dual pricing in Cambodia: the excuses debunked

Dual pricing based on race is very common in Cambodia, from the bus companies who charge white faces more to the hospitals that have one rate for Khmers and another for foreigners. Even the government-owned airline has one fare for Cambodians and another, much higher fare for everyone else. This is frustrating on many levels, not least when it’s foreign-owned businesses that are perpetuating dual pricing. Here are some of the most frequently cited arguments in favor of dual pricing — debunked.

dual pricing cambodia

At fancy hospitals there is one price for foreigners and one price for Cambodians. Even with the reduced rate, care is out of reach for poor Cambodians.

But Cambodians are poor

It’s true that Cambodians, by and large, are poor. And it’s also true that most expats are better off than most rural Cambodians. But it’s important to remember how outdated is the oversimplification that Cambodians are poor and Westerners are rich. These days the streets of Phnom Penh are clogged with gas-guzzling Lexus SUVs, and they are driven by rich Khmers, not Westerners. Perhaps just as surprising, there are Western expats sleeping on those very same streets.

Pricing based on race is a blunt instrument, and one that has failed. This failure grows more apparent as the Khmer riche get richer and the average expat is no longer on a generous relocation package — these days, expats are just as likely to work a “regular” job as anyone else. The wealthiest 1 percent in Cambodia is made up not of Westerners, but rather of the Khmer elite and (some) Asian expats. While most expats are solidly middle class, they are still leagues behind the Khmer upper class and elite, financially speaking. And much of Cambodia’s dual pricing benefits the Khmer upper and middle class and has no impact on the lives of the poor; you won’t find subsistence farmers getting a price break on yoga classes or on flights to Bangkok. These benefits go to those who are already privileged and do nothing for those who are truly in need.

Dual pricing is based on nationality, not on race

First off, Cambodian nationality is, for the most part, based on race (non-Vietnamese minority tribes are the exception). Any child of a Cambodian mother is granted Cambodian citizenship, regardless of where he or she is born. The child of non-Cambodians, though born and raised in Cambodia, is not granted Cambodian citizenship. Ethnically Vietnamese families who have lived in Cambodia for generations are, for all intents and purposes, stateless as far as the Cambodian government is concerned. So the argument that the dual-pricing system is not racist because it is based on nationality is flawed, because there is no attainable path to Cambodian citizenship for non-Cambodians (and I don’t call paying a $50,000 “facilitation fee” attainable).

Moreover, non-Cambodian Asians often benefit from the dual pricing plan, paying the local rate even when they don’t speak much Khmer and are citizens of Western countries. In practice, actual nationality seems unimportant; looking Khmer matters more. Khmer-Americans are also given the “local” price by many businesses, whether or not they have Cambodian passports.

dual pricing cambodia

Airlines one price for Cambodians and another price for non-Cambodians.

But tourists should subsidize things like national parks for the locals

I don’t disagree, but there are other, more sensible ways to accomplish this. In the Philippines, I went to national attractions that had one price for locals and one price for tourists — and anyone with a long-stay visa was counted as a local. In Cambodia, on the other hand, anyone who looks like a Cambodian gets the local price, even if they’re tourists, while long-time residents who don’t look Cambodian are charged as foreigners. Thus Americans with one Cambodian parent are given free passes to the Angkor Archaeological Park, even if they’ve never set foot in the country before. For everything from bus tickets to meal prices, plane tickets, entrance fees and more, it would be easy enough to separate locals from tourists by asking to see a long-stay visa or a lease.

The prices are meant to reward regulars versus tourists

If that’s the case, reward the regulars, or define locals based on residency. As things now stand, a Cambodian-American visiting the country for the first time will get a lower price on a bus ticket or flight than an expat who makes the same trip five times a month.

Maybe it’s unfair, but right now dual pricing is necessary to help Cambodia develop

Some businesses may be eager to help poor Cambodians, which is admirable, but these pricing policies only perpetuate a tradition of long-standing, entrenched racism in Cambodia, which ultimately helps no one. Instead it serves to deepen the divide between expats and locals. That divide is perpetuated by Cambodians when they treat foreigners like cash registers and by expats when they pay Cambodian staff far less than they pay their foreign employees. On both sides, the disparity is based on the idea that Cambodians need special treatment, whether that be lower prices or additional training.

On a more immediate level, if a business can charge a foreigner twice as much as it charges a Cambodian, at a certain point Cambodians will be shut out of the market. Why bother selling your widget to a local when, if you just wait around, you’ll make twice as much by selling to a foreigner?

But it’s only 2,000 riel!

Since this was first published, many people have pointed out that the price difference between what locals and foreigners are charged for in tuk tuk rides or vegetables in the market is very small. That’s true, and that sort of dual pricing is not what bothers me, particularly since it’s just as often based on perceived wealth as it is on race. What does bother me is institutionalized dual pricing, for flights, hospitals, yoga classes, etc., where there’s one price for Cambodians and a different price for non-Cambodians that is non-negotiable. When pricing like this is institutionalized, learning Khmer and whining “tlay na!” won’t change anything. If you are not Cambodian you will never get the Cambodian price for flights, no matter how long you live in this country.

(As an aside, I have heard that the few Westerners who do possess a Cambodian passport have difficulty entering the Angkor temples for free, but overseas Cambodians without a Cambodian passport are allowed in without question. Tell me again that it’s based on nationality and not race.)

This sort of dual pricing benefits only rich  Cambodians who clearly need no help in maintaining their wealth, and has no effect on those wealthy expats for whom an extra $50 for a plane ticket is chump change. Poor Cambodians rarely benefit from these policies, apart from perhaps getting free tickets to the Angkor Archaeological Park. And that benefit would not disappear if all residents, foreigners included, were given the local rate. Poor Cambodians don’t fly on Cambodia Angkor Air, and they get no benefit from a wealthy Khmer getting a reduced rate.

The Cambodian economy would not crumble if instead of having prices based on Cambodian versus non-Cambodia, prices were based on resident versus non-resident. When you see dual pricing based on race, complain. When at all possible, avoid companies that use it.

tl;dr Institutionalized dual pricing on things like airline tickets, hospitals, yoga classes, and bus tickets that are based solely on race and nationality are wrong. Tiered pricing based on residency versus non-residency would allow long-term residents — who are a tiny fraction of the foreigners who visit Cambodia — to pay the local price, without raising prices for Cambodians.

Expat Q&A: Artist influenced by her life in Cambodia

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they know now about Cambodia that they didn’t know before they moved, and about their life in the Kingdom of Wonder.

Three years ago American expat artist Karen Hartmann and her husband moved to Cambodia, after doing missionary work in the Cambodian community in Connecticut. Karen lives in Battambang where local life inspires her artwork, which is currently on display at The Kitchen and Lotus Gallery in Battambang.

Karen Hartmann Cambodia

After moving to Cambodia, Karen Hartmann’s work was increasingly influenced by Khmer culture and people.

MTC: What do you wish you had known before you moved to Cambodia?

KH: “We made five previous visits before moving to Battambang. Our preparation even included making the effort of learning the language to allow us to function well. So there really weren’t any unexpected or even unpleasant encounters, but we continue to enjoy discovering new facets of Cambodia, its people, and its lifestyle on a daily basis.

We were delighted to find how friendly Cambodians are; they are very warm and hospitable. One thing we weren’t sure about was how the local Cambodians view us as foreigners living here. We did have a little bit of uncertainty as to how welcome we would be settling in Battambang. After all, we clearly stand out as foreigners. But right from the beginning we were greeted and treated warmly, with respect, often gratitude and have had the impression ever since that our presence in Battambang is truly appreciated. Any concerns we might have had about perhaps being aliens, were completely unfounded and that has contributed to our feeling very comfortable in our new surroundings.

We came prepared to deal with lots and lots of challenges regarding maintaining a somewhat reasonable lifestyle, but some of my anxieties of having to drastically downscale were unfounded. With a bit of ingenuity, patience, and asking around, with the help of other expats I was able to source many more things than I first thought possible. For example, I was prepared to give up certain comforts of living, certain foods, etc. I realized I didn’t have to give up nearly as much as I anticipated. If I can’t source things locally here in Battambang, usually on a trip to Phnom Penh or Bangkok we find what we need. In short, even though life in Cambodia is much simpler than the United States, I never felt unduly limited. In fact, we value certain aspects of a much simpler life as compared to a Western lifestyle.”

Karen Hartmann artist

Karen’s work on display at Lotus Bar and Gallery.

What’s the art scene like in Battambang?

“Given the size of Battambang and the economic realities, I find the art scene to be surprisingly vibrant. I am happy to see not only the expats but the Cambodian artists supporting the activities. Having said that, I also think that the art scene would benefit tremendously from expanding into a wider range of subject matter, topics, and subjects.”

How has living in Cambodia influenced your artwork?

“The country, its culture and people have greatly influenced all of my paintings since coming to Cambodia in one way or another. Besides painting I am also an enthusiastic photographer. I have taken thousands of photographs over the year and often a photograph will inspire me to turn it into a painting. For a while I was enamoured by the krama which resulted in a series of studies in oil. Another series of paintings was inspired by studying Cambodian faces. Even my abstract expressionist paintings take their inspiration from daily Cambodian life.

My art has also expanded into making a very unique handmade soap and bath salts in several floral fragrances. It is called “Fleur du Cambodge” Even the packaging is hand painted with abstract expressionist motives. They are on sale at Eden Cafe and Lotus. I have no doubt this country will continue to provide inspiration for much more of my artwork.”

Considering moving to Battambang? Check out our expat guide to Battambang.