Responsible gift buying guide, Phnom Penh

It’s holiday season, and whether you are traveling or staying put, we bet that buying gift buying is on your mind. Not to worry! We’ve pounded the streets of Phnom Penh to find unique gifts from locally-owned businesses which support local and female producers for a gifting season that can make you feel all warm and fuzzy inside for reals.

Loom's Phnom Penh

Buy your gifts responsibly, and delight in this bold ikat bag from Loom’s.

This gift guide is heavy on textiles (scarves, blankets, clothing) because these industries can be run easily on a small scale by producers without massive capital investment. These gifts are surprisingly affordable — purses, necklaces, wallets and scarves start at $18 at almost all of these shops, so get your shopping list out and follow along.

We have focused for this guide on locally-owned businesses, since socially responsible NGO and expat-owned businesses like Friends International, Tonlé, Trunkh., and CocoKhmer are pretty well-known already, and these Cambodian business owners are making excellent products or marketing for groups of other Cambodian producers. If you know of other locally-owned businesses selling products made in Cambodia, please share in the comments!

Colors of Life Phnom Penh

Tie-dyed scarves at Colors of Life.

Color of Life

This shop doesn’t look like much from the street, where it competes with the likes of fancier shops like Insolite and Garden of Delight towards the Riverside end of 178’s “Art Street.” But alongside the same-samey silk scarves and bags are some beautiful striped and tie-dyed scarves in superfine silk and silk/cotton blends.

Craft Village Phnom Penh

Hand-painted silk scarves at Craft Village for all your scarf-wearing relatives.

Craft Village

Craft Village brings together producers from four Cambodian provinces, and the products on display here showcase each of their unique weaving styles and specialties. From Takeo where very fine strands of silk are the specialty and the scarves are drip-dyed simply, to the vertical embroidery of Banteay Meanchey, the scarves here are affordable and great quality. Stripes were my favorite here — hand-painted on lovely silk scarves, or woven in washed out colors for cotton breton striped dresses. And check out the ikat wallets; an unusual and beautiful gift that anyone can use.

Happy Silk Phnom Penh

By females, for females at Happy Silk in Phnom Penh.

Happy Silk

Featuring “Women for Women” products made by female cooperatives, this shop just off Riverside on St 178 is a gem. My favorites here were silk string necklaces accented with brass, and unadorned versions using tie-dyed silk — in great color combinations like grey and magenta, and bright green and royal blue.

Get stripey at Loom's.

Get stripey at Loom’s.

Loom’s

Mr Loom has been in the textile business for almost 20 years, and really knows his stuff. Cotton and silk, some dyed using only natural dyes, are woven into blankets with bright stripes reminiscent of Hudson Bay wool blankets for a warmer climate. The bright blue and orange ikat bag would also be a great, versatile gift for a textile-savvy traveler. Mr. Loom also stocks products from other local coops and producers, including Afesip Fair Fashion.

Lotus Silks Phnom Penh

Make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear at Lotus Silks.

Lotus Silks

Street 240 is known for its cute eateries and boutiquey shops, but Lotus Silks is one that can easily go unnoticed, but for the wooden boat on their sidewalk. This shop is surprisingly stylish, although some of the pattern combinations border on kitschy. They have a great selection of dresses from vintage fabrics, but if you are buying for someone else, stick with a cute clutch, wallet or purse.

Colors of Life

Open daily, 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Street 178 between Sothearos and St 13, next to Mekong Art, Phnom Penh
T: 017 888 916

Craft Village

375Eo Sisowath Quay, between Streets 178 and 184, Riverside, Phnom Penh
T: 023 220 859
facebook.com/CraftVillageCambodia

Happy Silk

Open daily, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
St. 178 between Sothearos and Sisowath, across from A.N.D, Phnom Penh
jan1176.wix.com/happysilk-cambodia

Loom’s

Open daily, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Sisowath Quay between Streets 110 and 108, Riverside, Phnom Penh
T: 012 507 717
facebook.com/LoomCambodia

Lotus Silk

Open daily, 8 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Street 240 between Norodom and Street 19, Phnom Penh
T: 017 556 226
facebook.com/Lotus-Silk-Boutique

2015 Christmas activities for kids (and adults) in Siem Reap

Already gearing up for Christmas in Siem Reap? We’ve got a round-up of 2015 pre-Christmas activities for kids (and adults) in Siem Reap. We will be updating this until Christmas, so if you know of others, please leave details in the comment section. And as always, don’t forget to check out the ridiculous Christmas decorations outside the Angkor Century hotel and to dress your kids up like Santa.

Christmas activities for kids in Siem Reap

It’s Christmas in Cambodia!

Rosy Guesthouse Christmas Fair

Rosy Guesthouse is hosting a kid-friendly Christmas fair on December 12th from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. There will be stalls selling gifts, decorations, cards and speciality Christmas foods, as well as Christmas trees and flowers for sale. There will also be a post box for kids to send letters to Santa (or Père Noël or Father Christmas). Letter templates will be available on site for kids to color or write in. Free candy cane for all letter writers. Mulled wine and hot cocoa will be served.

There will also be a toy drive for Safe Haven Medical Outreach, so bring your new or lightly used toys for their young patients.

Achar Sva Street, Slor Kam Village (Along the Siem Reap River), Siem Reap
T: 063 965 059
rosyguesthouse.com
Rosy Guesthouse Christmas Fair on Facebook

Christmas Workshop at Soria Moria

Soria Moria will be holding a Christmas Workshop on December 11th, where they will be making Christmas decorations, listening to Christmas music, eating Christmas cookies and traditional Scandinavian riskrem (creamed rice) and drinking gløgg (mulled wine). Children from Sangkheum Center for Children will perform Christmas Carols. The workshop starts at 5 p.m. and costs $10 per person. Kids under 12 are half price and kids under four are free with parents. $1 from each participant will be donated to the Sangkheum Center for Children. Please RSVP by December 7th 2015 togina@thesoriamoria.com or booking@thesoriamoria.com.

Wat Bo Road, Siem Reap
T: 012 189 9200
thesoriamoria.com
Soria Moria Christmas Workshop on Facebook

Christmas Soccer Camp

On December 21st, 22nd, and 23rd there will be three days of soccer camp for kids age six and up. Send them for one day or all three to get a pre-Christmas break from the kids. The camp lasts from 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. and promises to teach kids valuable soccer (or football) skills. Lunch will be provided, and everyone who signs up will get a free t-shirt. One day costs $25, two days is $50, and three days is $65.

Contact Charlie Pomeroy
T: 016 220 312

Christmas in Siem Reap

Last year’s Christmas decor at the Angkor Century Hotel.

Kid’s Xmas Party at Bayon Pastry School

On  December 16th at 4 p.m. the Bayon Pastry School will have a Christmas party where kids can have their photos taken with Santa. Entry to the three-hour party is free (cake and drinks are not included) and every child that attends will get a free gift. While you are there, you can order your Christmas cake or Yule Log from the pastry school for the big day.

Taphul Village, Siem Reap
T: 012 604 170
Bayon Pastry School Xmas party on Facebook

Christmas Party at Treehouse Nursery and Cafe

On December 17th the Treehouse Nursery and Cafe will have a disco-themed Christmas party for kids that features music, dancing, food, and games from 5:30 to 7 p.. The cost is $5 per child. The best part? Parents can choose to join in the festivities or just drop the kids off and have an evening to themselves.

Treehouse Nursery and Cafe

#96 Street 26, Wat Bo, Siem Reap
T:063 502 2777
siemreaptreehouse.com

Gingerbread House Decorating

Kids can make and decorate their very own gingerbread houses to take home on December 13th and 20th at the Park Hyatt from 2 to 4 p.m. The cost is $15 per child. Bookings in advance are required; call 077 333 491, or email phoeuy.pek@hyatt.com.

Park Hyatt Siem Reap

Sivutha Boulevard, Siem Reap
T: 063 211 234
siemreap.park.hyatt.com/festive

Christmas at Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor

Raffles has lots of Christmas events on (see our 2015 Christmas dinners post for more), including Christmas carols that will be fun for kids.

On December 6th, 13th, and 20th there will be Christmas carols from 4 p.m. in the hotel lobby for all to enjoy. On Christmas Eve carols will start at 7:30 p.m. and on Christmas Day there will be carols by the tree at 12:45 p.m. They also have a tree-lighting ceremony on December 5th at 5:45 p.m.

Every day in December apart from the 25th, Raffles will be hosting their famous afternoon tea with a holiday twist from 2:30 to 5 p.m. Price is $25 per person or $35 with a glass of Champagne or mulled wine Bellini.

For the adults, head to the Conservatory and Elephant Bar for $9 Christmas cocktails every day in December from 4 p.m. until midnight.

Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor

1 Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay Dang Kum, Siem Reap
T: 063 963 888
raffles.com/siem-reap/festiveoffers

2015 Christmas dinners in Siem Reap

Every year Siem Reap manages to put on a spread for Christmas. Despite the fact that most locals don’t celebrate Christmas, all of the hotels are decked out in Christmas finery and many are offering elaborate Christmas dinners. Quite a few smaller restaurants also have a Christmas menu, but almost everyone wants an advance booking, so it’s time to start considering this year’s options. Here’s the Move to Cambodia round-up of the best 2015 Christmas dinners in Siem Reap from least expensive to positively extravagant. We will be updating this up to Christmas, so if you know of others, please leave details in the comment section.

Christmas in Siem Reap

Merry Christmas, Siem Reap. Let’s eat!

Belmiro’s

For the week of December 20th, Belmiro’s will be offering a classic American Christmas menu of roast turkey, honey-baked ham, scalloped potatoes with Cheddar cheese and cream, maple-glazed carrots, string bean casserole for just $17. They will be serving this alongside their regular menu of pizza and subs, so there’s something for everyone, even the non-ham-eating humbugs in the group. They expect to run out of turkey before the end of the Christmas run, so if turkey’s your thing, show up early.  Be warned that they will not be open on Christmas Day, but will be open every other day during the Christmas week and will be serving this holiday meal on December 21st from 3 p.m., December 22nd, 23rd, 24th, and 26th from noon until midnight.

#7 Street 7, Siem Reap [map]
T: 095 779 930
belmirospizza.com

Genevieve’s Restaurant

Genevieve’s on Sok San Road is having a Christmas Day lunch for $20. The menu will feature prawn tempura or fried pepper squid, turkey with roast potatoes, roast pumpkin and carrots, peas, stuffing, gravy, and cranberry sauce. For dessert there’s a Christmas pudding with custard. They are serving from noon to 12:30 pm (you heard right, that’s a single seating) and can accommodate up to 40 people, so make a reservation in advance by calling Phil at 081 410 783.

Sok San Road, Siem Reap
T: 081 410 783
facebook.com/GenevievesRestaurant

Malones Irish Pub

Irish pub and restaurant Molly Malone’s is offering a lovely Christmas lunch and dinner. There’s a two-course and three-course menu option this year, for $24.75 and $28.75 respectively. The menu features a glass of mulled wine, then a cream of mushroom soup or prawn cocktail starter, and then traditional roast turkey with sage and onion stuffing with roasted and mashed potatoes (they’re Irish, after all) cauliflower cheese, steamed seasonal vegetables, and gravy. For dessert there’s a bûche de Noël with tea or coffee.

Malones is one of the few places in town with a vegetarian offering, and will be serving a nut roast with mushroom cream sauce with all the trimmings if there’s enough demand. Reservations must be made by December 23rd, call 012 447 340.

Street 11, near Pub Street, Siem Reap
T: 063 963 823
facebook.com/MalonesSiemReap

Mie Cafe Siem Reap

Mie Cafe will again be offering a great value multi-course gourmet Christmas menu.

Mie Cafe

Last year Mie Cafe offered one of the most impressive Christmas dinners in Siem Reap, and this year promises a new six-course menu for just $33 per person. They have not released the menu yet, but we had a sneak preview and can promise that the Western-Cambodian fusion meals will be one of the best in town — offering a 5-star experience and great value for money. They also have a vegetarian option available. Reserve in advance by calling 012 791371 or email chef@miecafe-siemreap.com.

#0085, Phum Treng Khum Slorgram, Siem Reap
T: 012 791 371
miecafe-siemreap.com

FCC Angkor

As usual, the FCC Angkor has some upscale Christmas dining options on December 24th and 25th. Their set menu is $55++ per person and starts with a glass of bubbly. This year the menu features oyster and pearl, which I have to be honest, I have no idea what that is if not shellfish and jewelry, followed by avocado rolls stuffed with seafood, prawns and ponzu sauce, “totem of foie gras with pomelo atomized, spices bread, figs jam” (I couldn’t make this stuff up), sous vide oxtail with smoked mash potato, apricot sauce, red cabbage and a dessert of praline coulant and petit fours. All accompanied by live piano music. Reservations are suggested.

Pokambor Ave, next to the Royal Residence, Siem Reap
T: 063 760 283
fcccambodia.com/siemreap

Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor

Just like every year, Raffles has to go and out-Christmas everyone else, with their raft of traditional Christmas events and meals, including the ever-popular Christmas Day brunch. The brunch runs from noon to 3 p.m. and features a visit from Santa at around 1 p.m. who will bring gifts for the kids. They haven’t announced the buffet menu, but it’s likely that it will be similar to last year’s, which featured a sushi and sashimi buffet, pastas, salad bar, a selection of Asian and international hot foods, carvery, cold cuts, cheeses, soups, and desserts (including a yule log). Basically the menu is very long and you’ll leave stuffed. Price is $70++ for adults and includes free-flow beer and wine, or $90++ with champagne or $105++ with pink champagne. The price is $35++ for kids 6-12 and free for kids under 5. Reserve in advance.

If you’re looking for a Christmas Eve celebration, Raffles has another over the top event that includes pre-dinner cocktails, a buffet dinner by the pool which will be filled with thousands of floating candles, a Khmer cultural show, and a pre-planned surprise appearance by Santa who will bring gifts for the kids. The buffet menu hasn’t been announced, but last year featured no less than a whole suckling pig on a spit. Cost for adults is $125++ and is half price for children ages 6 to 12. Children 5 and under eat for free. It is highly recommended to make a reservation 24hrs prior the event by calling 063 963 888 or emailing dining.siemreap@raffles.com

On the 29th, Raffles is holding a post-Christmas pre-New Year’s gala charity dinner. It’s $195++ per person and includes a four-course Western Khmer fusion meal, cocktails, canapes and the sense of satisfaction one gets from going to a fancy charity event. Proceeds go to the Nginn Karet Foundation for Cambodia and their Sacred Dancers of Angkor troupe, who will also be performing the traditional dances of Cambodia at the event.

To find out more about what’s happening at Raffles over the holidays, check out their 2015 Christmas activities for kids (and adults) in Siem Reap.

1 Charles de Gaulle Avenue
T: 063 963 888
raffles.com/siem-reap

*All of the hotel prices are ++, which means they don’t include various taxes and VAT. Expect to pay an extra 10% above the listed price.

Review: Backstreet Academy Cambodian dessert-making class, Siem Reap

Cambodian desserts are a world away from what you are probably used to back home, but they are uniquely delicious. If you’re not used to Southeast Asian desserts, the textures and flavors can take some getting used to, but once you give them a shot, you will be hooked! At least that’s what happened to me. I’m a big fan of these tasty treats, so when I heard that Backstreet Academy was offering a class on how to make Cambodian desserts, I had to try it out.

Cambodian dessert making

Savat and Samon, Cambodian dessert-making expert and translator.

Backstreet Academy is a website that allows local producers to offer classes and experiences to tourists directly. Backstreet Academy deals with the marketing and bookings, plus provides a translator and transport, but other than that, the classes are in the hands of the small-scale producers and small business owners who offer them. In Siem Reap several of the classes are offered by market sellers who wouldn’t otherwise have access to the hospitality business, and it allows foreigners access to local culture that they wouldn’t be exposed to otherwise.

Cambodian desserts

A table full of ingredients to make Cambodian desserts.

Our teacher, Savat Kan, used to sell desserts at Siem Reap’s Polanka Market, before she was recruited to be a chef in a private household. She didn’t speak a word of English, but was very encouraging of our efforts nonetheless, and always had a smile for us. Samon from Backstreet Academy came along to make sure we got the nuances of her instruction.

Cambodia’s Favorite Desserts: A Khmer Culinary Masterclass offers the chance to make four desserts in a half-day morning class. They have eight different desserts listed, and you pick which ones you will make in advance. We chose pumpkin and tapioca (it’s much better than it sounds), coconut jelly, and a few that weren’t officially on the list, but are two of my personal favorites, nom plai ay, and num thnaot, small steamed cakes made from palm fruit.

Cambodian dessert

One of the finished products, a delicious pumpkin and tapioca dessert made with coconut cream.q

Our class was just the two of us, and I suspect that because Cambodian desserts aren’t very well known, most classes will end up being private because not too many people are booking this particular experience.

Backstreet Academy’s Cambodian dessert-making class costs $22 per person, plus a $1.50 booking charge. Classes must be booked at least a day in advance. Students meet at the Angkor Handicraft Association (AHA) on Road 60, and transport is provided from there. You will be allowed to take your desserts home with you. If your class was anything like ours, you’ll end up with more you can eat and will be able to share with (and impress) your neighbors! Bring a notebook and pen if you want to take down the recipes to try at home later.

Making Cambodian desserts in Siem Reap.

Making Cambodian desserts in Siem Reap.

We haven’t tried any of the other Siem Reap classes with Backstreet Academy, but many of them look interesting and aren’t just the typical make-spring-rolls-and-amok cooking classes (although there are a few there, as well). Overall, I am impressed with Backstreet Academy’s program that helps local artisans and craftspeople connect with tourists in Siem Reap, increasing their income and visibility.

BackStreet Academy Siem Reap

Angkor Handicraft Association (AHA), Road 60, Siem Reap
T: 098 382 046
backstreetacademy.com/siem-reap

Organic groceries in Phnom Penh

We’ve just updated this post again because there are even more organic options now than ever (skip to the end for the new stores). These days, it’s not hard to find organic products in Phnom Penh if you know where to look. Even the big grocery chains usually carry some organic produce, but if you want the best selection, head to the organic and all-natural specialty shops.

Phnom Penh organics

Organic produce in Phnom Penh? Maybe. Chemical-free produce in Phnom Penh? Definitely.

Street 63 in BKK1 has several stores that specialize in organic and chemical-free products and there are a few others around the city. These stores work with small farmers and suppliers around Cambodia to bring the freshest produce to Phnom Penh. Be aware, though, that there’s no regulation on the use of the word organic, but most of these stores are members of Cambodia Organic Agricultural Association (COrAA), and carry products that are either certified as chemical-free, or the more stringent classifier, organic.

The following are Phnom Penh’s best organic grocery stores:

Natural Garden

Phnom Penh Natural Garden

Keeping it chemical free at Natural Garden.

Natural Garden is the godfather of organic groceries in Phnom Penh, and a leading produce supplier for many of the city’s hotels and restaurants. A member of Cambodia Organic Agricultural Association (COrAA), they grow and sell organic rice and chemical-free vegetables. Their stores sell both the product they grow themselves in their farm in Sihanouk province, as well as chemical-free fruits and vegetables from sourced from all over the country, including the Svay Rieng agricultural cooperative. They’ve started labeling products, so it’s possible to know the provenance of what you’re buying, from Battambang oranges and Kampot tangerines to Siem Reap melons and Mondulkiri passionfruit. Their selection is probably the best in town, with the widest range of products and highest turnover. However, it’s not always necessarily clear which items are chemical-free as opposed to organic.

Natural Garden also sells fresh breads, French Le Terrior 69 meats and charcuterie, and dry goods, including an expanding selection of locally-produced products such as jams and palm sugar. They also have a lot of tasty products for take-away such as soups, pate and lentil salads, as well as items including fresh-made tofu and Japanese natto. Their flagship store on Street 63 is also their best.

Natural Garden

Open daily, 7:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.
213BC Street 63, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 023 555 2028
Street 240 at Street 51, Daun Penh, Phnom Penh
T: 060 444 058
ngkhmer.com

Green-O Farm

Green-O Farm, Phnom Penh

Green-O Farm, Phnom Penh

Green-O Farm works with farmers in several villages in Kampong Speu to supply them with chemical-free products. They’re also a member of COrAA, and are certified chemical-free, and working towards organic status. They carry a large selection of locally-grown vegetables, salad greens, and herbs, as well as “safe imported vegetables.” It’s sometimes unclear which of their products are local versus imported and organic versus not, but they do seem dedicated to the idea of organic local produce.

Additionally, they carry a selection of Cambodian-produced items like Ratanakiri coffee and Mondulkiri coffee and imported wines and dry goods. We were happy to see Coco Khmer coconut oil products, including not just cooking oil, but coconut oil beauty products. Green-O Farm also offers door-to-door delivery.

Green-O Farms

Open daily, 7:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.
216CD Street 63, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 023 667 0011; 012 300 955; 068 709 709
gofcam.com

Amarak Veggie Store

Amarak Phnom penh

Newcomer Amarak does delivery boxes of chemical-free veg.

Amarak Veggie Store carries organic produce and locally-produced products, with everything from Pursat wild grape wine to Cambodian mango jam, as well as the more ubiquitous items like local palm sugar and Kampot pepper. They have a small but complete selection of high-quality fresh vegetables, herbs and fruits. The store also sells organic meats and ready-to-eat salads. Perhaps most excitingly (if this is the sort of thing that excites you — and it should) they offer weekly organic produce delivery boxes, where you get a random assortment of fruits and vegetables.

The store is the outlet for Amarak Farm, which is grows certified chemical-free produce. They’re a member of Cambodia Organic Agricultural Association (COrAA) and is working to receive its full organic certification. The farm isn’t far outside of Phnom Penh and they welcome visitors to come see how things work on a Cambodian organic farm. Soon, they will sell seeds directly to consumers who want to try their hand at growing their own vegetables. Amarak Farm is a supplier for chemical-free vegetables for many of Phnom Penh’s finest grocery stores, including Aeon Mall, Lucky Supermarket and Angkor Market. Skip the middle man and shop direct at Amarak Veggie Store.

Amarak Veggie Store

Open daily, 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
219D Street 63, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 023 666 6889
amarakorganicgarden.com

Happy Farm

Happy Farm Phnom Penh

Happy Farm, happy stomachs.

Happy Farm carries a selection of locally-produced, chemical-free products from all around Cambodia. They’ve closed their flagship shop on Street 63 but their locations in Toul Kork carry a wide range of vegetables, herbs and produce, plus a selection of local fish and meats.

Happy Farm

Open daily, 7:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
1B Street 137, Toul Kork, Phnom Penh T: 070 555 555; 070 555 520
18A Street Northbridge, Sen Sok, Phnom Penh T: 070 555 555; 070 555 530
170, Street 138, Toul Kork T: 070 555 555; 070 555 540
happyfarm.com.kh

Digby’s at DNAK Square

Digbys DNAK Phnom Penh

Digby’s has a small selection of organic products from Discovery Farms.

Digby’s offers a selection of produce from Discovery Farms, a farm in Kampong Speu that is certified organic by COrAA. (Discovery Farms also offers weekly organic produce baskets direct to consumers, call 096 294 8109). They don’t have a huge selection, but if you’re there anyway for a coffee, it’s worth a look. We get the sense that Digby’s had high hopes for being a major organic outlet, but their shelves are eerily bare, although they do have a nice selection of meats.

Digby’s at DNAK Square

Open daily, 7:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.
197 Street 63, BKK1, Phnom Penh
digbysgrocercafe.com

Veggy’s

Veggy's Phnom Penh

We’re not sure if they’re organics, but they sure taste nice.

We are slightly skeptical of Veggy’s half-hearted claims that their produce is organic. In response to our question “is this organic?” we got a blank stare, then, “yes, maybe!” Despite this, it’s worth a visit because they do carry a wide range of mostly-imported fresh vegetables and a selection of hard to find gourmet products like pinenuts and Spanish cheeses and charcuterie. Read our full review of Veggy’s here.

Veggy’s

Open daily, 8:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.
23 St 240, Phnom Penh
T: 023 211 534

Aeon Supermarket

phnom penh organic

Aeon Mall has a surprisingly large selection of organic produce.

The Aeon supermarket has a surprisingly large selection of locally grown, organic vegetables, as well as organic vegetables imported from around Asia (including places they may have more stringent standards when it comes to growing and labeling organic). It appears that the imported produce is supplied by a Malaysian organic company, D’Lonek, but there’s surprisingly little information about them available online. What sets Aeon Supermarket apart from the rest on this list is that in addition to having a large selection of organic produce, they are also a full-service supermarket so you can do all of your shopping in one place, taking the hassle out of being healthy. Unfortunately it’s replaced by the hassle of having to go to the mall.

Aeon Mall Supermarket

Open daily, 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.
132 Sothearos Blvd, Tonle Bassac, Phnom Penh
T: 023 901 091
aeonmallphnompenh.com

Farm to Table

phnom penh organic

Farm to Table has a selection of Discovery Farms organics, as well as potted herbs to grow at home.

Farm to Table by Artillery has a selection of vegetables from Discovery Farms, a farm in Kampong Speu that is certified organic by COrAA. The selection is pretty small and the prices are high, but they have a personal touch and have on-site events and daily specials. They can also organize weekly organic vegetable boxes from Discovery Farms (Farm to Table is one of the pickup stops), plus they sell potted herbs on site for $5 each.

Farm to Table

16 Street 360, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 078 899 722
facebook.com/Farm-to-Table

La Vie Claire

La Vie Claire Phnom Penh

La Vie Claire brings French organic and GMO-free pantry items to Phnom Penh.

La Vie Claire is the latest organic shop that’s come to Phnom Penh. Filling a niche that was previously lacking in town, La Vie Claire specializes in organic and GMO-free pantry items and dry goods. They carry an extensive selection of grains, legumes, cereals, teas, juices, chocolate herbal remedies, organic baby food, and chemical-free cleaning and beauty products, among other things. They also have a large selection of various non-dairy milks and gluten-free products. La Vie Claire is a French health food store chain, and many of the products at the Cambodian branch are their own La Vie Claire house brand and certified to EU standards.

They also sell a selection of local products, including a tiny range of chemical-free produce. But there are lots of other places to get organic produce these days; we were most impressed with the selection of previously hard-to-find items like organic bulgur, buckwheat, and rye flour.

La Vie Claire

Open daily, 7:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.
53Eo Street 13, Daun Penh, Phnom Penh
T: 012 905 070
facebook.com/lavieclairecambodia

If you’re looking for Phnom Penh supermarkets and grocery stores, check out our dedicated blog post. For more information about Phnom Penh organics, visit Real Food: Cambodia, a blog dedicated to organic, gluten-free, and vegan eating in Phnom Penh.

Got a correction for one of our listings? Submit it here.

What’s the difference between a hard title and a soft title?

If you’re considering buying property in Cambodia, you may have heard about hard titles and soft titles, and wonder which one you need. We talk to Leah Valencia from advertiser Elevated Realty in Phnom Penh to get the scoop on the difference between hard and soft land titles, and what are the pros and cons of each.

Cambodia hard title

Does the saying ‘go hard or go home’ apply to land titles in Cambodia?

What’s the history of land titling in Cambodia?

“During the Democratic Kampuchea regime (1975-79), the Khmer Rouge abolished ownership of property and destroyed all existing official property records in Cambodia. At that time, all property belonged to the state and there were no private owners. After the Khmer Rouge fell, and for the next ten years, the right to own property was still not recognized and all property was owned by the government. In 1989 a land law was issued which established a framework for the recognition of property and property rights throughout Cambodia. In 2001 the Land Law was updated in an attempt to further clarify property ownership.”

How are land titles registered?

“Under the Land Law, property can be registered in two ways, systematic registration and sporadic registration. In the systematic system, the government targets plots of land to measure, register and title, this will continue until the whole country is complete. In the sporadic system, the owner initiates the title registration through the central cadastral office. There are currently two types of titles legally recognized in Cambodia, soft titles and hard titles.”

What is a soft title?

“The majority of property in Cambodia is legally held under a soft title, 70% of properties in urban areas and 82% in rural areas. Property held under a soft title is registered at the local sangkat or district level, but not at the national level. Soft title documentation can take a variety of forms, such as a letter of transfer from the previous possessor stamped by the sangkat or district office, a possession status certificate from the local sangkat or district office, or a building application.

Buyers wanting to purchase a soft title property should conduct their own due diligence, at the sangkat or district office to confirm whom holds the soft title to the property. Similar enquiries should be made with the property’s neighbors. The property boundaries should also be carefully checked, as borders are often not properly demarcated and overlaps with neighboring properties can exist. Often a soft title is prefered due to the taxes, fees and the processes involved in obtaining a hard title. However, the option to convert from soft title into a hard title is a right, either when systematic registration occurs or via sporadic registration.”

What is a hard title?

“A hard title is an ownership certificate which is issued by the Cadastral Office and recognized at the national ministerial level as well as at the sangkat and district level. This is the most secure form of ownership, its registration should be the only evidence required of an indefeasible title.”

What is a LMAP title?

“In 2002 the Land Management and Administration Project (LMAP) was initiated, by the World Bank and other supporting nations, to implement systematic registration of property. LMAP and other similar initiatives have developed the legal framework for land administration, training of Ministry and technical staff, and officiating over a million titles. LMAP titles are considered reliable as they are anchored to GPS points, which may be valued at a premium by foreign purchasers. However, LMAP titles can be difficult to secure as many of those issued have been in rural geographical areas.”

What are the pros and cons of a soft title versus a hard title?

Soft title pros:
More properties available
Faster processing
Excludes 4% transfer fee and other costs
Can be converted to a hard title

Soft title cons:
Not registered at the national ministry
Provides less property information and history
Risk of boundary overlap
Cannot be used to secure financing

Hard title pros:
Registered at the national ministry
Ownership is indisputable
Full property information and history
Can be used to secure financing

Hard title cons:
Fewer available properties
Slower processing
4% transfer fees and other costs

→ Read more about buying and renting property and housing in our Phnom Penh real estate guide.

Elevated Realty specializes in finding the perfect home or property in Cambodia. View their properties on their site, Elevated Realty, or give them a call at +855 (0)23 220 609.

Review: CityLink Cambodia bus, Phnom Penh-Siem Reap

When I heard about CityLink, the newest luxury bus between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, it seemed like the sort of tall tale that gets passed around on the schoolyard that is expat life in Cambodia. “They have personal TVs!” “The chairs massage you!” “The seats are first class!” And most of it is true — get the details in the review below.

CityLink Cambodia buses

Need a big seat? CityLink Cambodia offers first-class seating from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap.

CityLink Cambodia bills itself as a luxury bus company, nay the luxury bus company, traversing the long road from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. CityLink has full-size buses and mini-buses going between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. It’s the full-size bus that everyone is talking about, so I bought a ticket and took it for a spin.

The Phnom Penh Post reported that the CityLink buses are new, the seats are modern, and they go to international locations. None of these things is actually true. The bus is old, but clean. The toilet is not modern; it is a squat toilet, but it is also clean. And CityLink only does domestic routes, at least for the time being. The bus is a double-decker with only 17 seats. The lower level is for luggage and the toilet, which is a nice layout because most buses with toilets tend to smell like urine, air freshener, disinfectant, or some combination therein. By housing the toilet below deck, CityLink escapes this fate.

Citylink buses Cambodia

It’s like a first class seat on a 1990s airplane!busbu

17 seats on a bus really isn’t very many, which means that the seats are massive. There are two aisles, with one seat on either side, and a row of three in the back. Because of the single-row seating, this is a great bus to take if you are traveling solo and don’t want to sit next to anyone. The seats are similar to first class recliner seats on domestic flights in the 80s or 90s; they are wide and padded, with a adjustable leg rest and considerable recline. There is, as rumored, a massage feature on every chair.

Each seat has a personal TV that shows programming in English, Mandarin, and Khmer. There is no headphone jack, but the speakers are housed in the headrest so the volume does not need to be very loud to watch a movie. Surprisingly, despite the fact that there were several people on my bus watching movies, the volume in the cabin was lower and less annoying than the standard movie sounds on other buses.

Citylink bus Phnom Penh Siem Reap

Yes, you can play dubiously licensed video games on the trip to Siem Reap!

There’s also a Super Nintendo-style video game controller and a selection of games, including one called Hero Pika that appears to be a counterfeit Mario Brothers, and a possibly legit Popeye. I must confess that I spent more time that I’d like to admit playing phony Mario, but that’s what long bus trips are for, right?

The CityLink staff are also very friendly; there’s a “flight attendant” on board who spent five minutes explaining how I could get my chair to massage me, and when my TV didn’t work, she immediately moved me to another seat. There’s even a buzzer on the armrest in case you want to summon the attendant back to your chair. The WiFi worked like a charm, and because there are so few people on the bus, is much faster than the usual bus Internet speeds. It even was able to maintain a connection when my Cellcard 3g failed me.

That said, my first TV didn’t work, and in my second seat, a large screw fell out of the ceiling and into my lap, which doesn’t inspire confidence. Happily, the driver drove safely and slowly for the entire journey. I am always worried about the bus maintenance and upkeep, though, because most Cambodian bus companies do not seem to place great (or any) emphasis on this. CityLink brough to mind Mekong Express, who despite having an excellent safety record, seem to have buses break down on the side of the road with alarming regularity. There were also quite a lot of stops to pick up and drop off people along the way, although they were speedy.

Citylink Siem Reap Phnom Penh bus

Each aisle only has one seat, making CityLink a good choice for solo travelers or those who don’t like their traveling companions.

Overall, it was a very comfortable ride. Although I suspect that Giant Ibis is more reliable, I would still recommend CityLink, particularly for solo travelers who don’t want to sit next to anybody. Tickets cost $16 (or $14 for the mini-bus) and the trip takes around six-and-a-half hours. Tickets can be purchased from the CityLink offices in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. I bought mine in the ticket office and would recommend avoiding that particular headache and book online.

In Siem Reap buses arrive and leave from the CityLink office across from Psar Samaki on Road 6. In Phnom Penh, the office is on Street 215, but they will make a quick stop to let people off by the railroad station before dropping off at their office.

CityLink Big Bus Schedule:
Phnom Penh – Siem Reap: 8:30 a.m., 12:30 p.m.
Siem Reap – Phnom Penh: 8:30 a.m.,  12:30 p.m.

CityLink Mini-Bus Schedule:
Phnom Penh – Siem Reap: 7 a.m., 3:30 p.m., 5 p.m.
Siem Reap – Phnom Penh: 7 a.m., 3:30 p.m., 5 p.m.

CityLink Cambodia

#7E Street 215, near Street 156, Phnom Penh
T: 023 939 939; 095 470 470; 0968 470 470
#148Eo National Road 6, opposite Psar Samaki, Siem Reap
T: 063 968 568; 085 470 470; 010 470 470

facebook.com/citylinkcambodia

Attending university (as a foreigner) in Cambodia

Why attend a university in Cambodia? Because you can and it looks interesting on your resume. Roy, an American expat, who is working his way towards a degree in political science at the University of Cambodia, gives us the scoop on going to university in Phnom Penh in the post below.

Get educated at the University of Cambodia.

Get educated at the University of Cambodia.

Getting a degree in Cambodia

Attending university in Cambodia is an adventure and much more interesting than slogging through classes at a community college back home. Right now I’m finishing my second term at University of Cambodia. I love it here; the people are great. While there are a few students here from other ASEAN countries, I’m currently the only Westerner enrolled. Students and teachers all seem initially surprised, but quickly get used to having a barang in class. As a native English speaker, I get asked about pronunciations, definitions and grammar; it’s a bit like being a living dictionary. There are also opportunities where I try to explain the oddities of US politics.

The question I hear most often from my classmates is, “Why are you going to school in Cambodia and why did you decide to attend this school?” I explain that I love the country and the people. My choosing UC is based on instruction in English, the very helpful staff in registration and, if I’m going to travel halfway around the world to go to school, I want to be able to put something on my resume that makes it perfectly clear that I attended a university in Cambodia.

There are no “student visas” in Cambodia but as a student you can get a business/ordinary visa without a work permit. Phnom Penh has several universities that instruct in English, offering associate, bachelor’s, master’s, and doctoral degrees in a variety of topics. I’ll only discuss the two universities that I’ve had firsthand experience with.

University of Cambodia (UC)

www.uc.edu.kh

The University of Cambodia is located 300 meters south of Russian Federation Boulevard on Northbridge Road. The prerequisite to enroll for undergraduate studies is an original or certified copy of your high school diploma and transcripts. If you have an associate’s degree it is possible to receive some transfer credits and it will allow you more flexibility in scheduling your classes. Later you may be required to take an English proficiency test and an entrance exam. View the admissions requirements for University of Cambodia.

The transfer of credits from a Western college or university without a degree is possible, but appears to depend on the dean or department head’s willingness to negotiate with the Ministry of Education. Transfer of credits between Cambodian schools is also problematic and there are limits that vary by school.

Foundation year is required for all students without a degree. It is a fixed track consisting of 12 classes over three terms. While it is not universally standardized, it is theoretically transferable between schools. After foundation year there is some flexibility in class scheduling,  with a maximum of five classes per term.

There are four class schedules, mornings, afternoons, evenings and weekends. Tuition is about $1,300 per year for foreign students. Textbooks are generally less than $5 per class.

Rent near the university is low with many available housing options, however, most are not furnished. Tuk tuks cost about $5 from the school to Riverside or, if you’re not in a hurry, the bus is available for 1,500 riel.

Paññāsāstra University Cambodia

The hallowed halls of Paññāsāstra University can be yours for just $1,800 per year.

Paññāsāstra University of Cambodia (PUC)

www.puc.edu.kh

Paññāsāstra University of Cambodia is located 500 meters south of Independence Monument on Norodom Boulevard. It appears to be academically similar to University of Cambodia but with more Western instructors and staff. Tuition is slightly higher at $1,800 per year for foreign students.

From conversations that I’ve had with one of their deans, this would be my first choice if I was trying to transfer in credits from a foreign university.

Caveats of studying in Cambodia

At UC and PUC, all classes are taught in English. The origin and quality of the English varies by instructor but it is all passable or better. Classes tend to be noisier than in the West, so sitting near the front of the class is advisable. The administration of higher education in Cambodia is very different from what one might be accustomed to elsewhere. When doing anything out of the ordinary, everything seems to be just a bit more difficult than it needs to be. Fortunately the staff and students are helpful and friendly.

This post was written by Roy, an American expat who is working towards a degree in political science in Phnom Penh.