Exploring Sihanoukville’s coffee culture

Surprisingly, there are other things to do in Sihanoukville besides drinking beer. One of our favorite things to do is to sit down with a coffee and watch the world go by. Cafe culture is booming in Sihanoukville, and it seems that every week another coffee shop pops up that serves coffee, frappes, and more. We feel duty bound to try them all and share the secrets of Sihanoukville’s coffee culture.

Cambodian iced coffee

The sweetest rocket fuel you’ll ever drink.

Cheap local-style iced coffee is widely available from street vendors everywhere for around 1,000 riel, but if you fancy something more sophisticated or require air-conditioning or WiFi, here’s a rundown of some of our favorite places to grab a caffeine fix. Continue reading

Insurance nightmare in Cambodia

One of the worst medical experiences of my life occurred two years ago, and I wasn’t even the patient. Shaun, a visitor to Cambodia whom I’d recently met, was admitted to Calmette Hospital, a public hospital in Phnom Penh, with a near-fatal spinal injury. He’d been mugged by a motodop and left for dead, and he urgently needed high-quality medical care.

Travel insurance nightmare Cambodia

Shaun in Calmette Hospital, waiting to be airlifted to Bangkok.

Instead, he was shuffled around from clinic to clinic, and after it was confirmed that he had a potentially fatal injury, he lay in a bed at Calmette for 33 hours, untreated and surrounded by filth, while his friends and family tried to convince his travel insurance company to honor his policy and evacuate him to an international-standard hospital in Thailand. Continue reading

Review: Little Red Fox, Siem Reap

When we woke up three days in a row thinking about Little Red Fox’s terrific cold drip coffee we realized we had a real problem. The cold drip coffee, brewed in an apparatus that would look at home in a science lab, is just that good — this isn’t yesterday’s coffee with a few ice cubes tossed in. The overnight, slow drip technique produces a gentle, flavorful brew, where the bright, sweet berry notes of the coffee beans shine through. No milk or sugar is needed here, as the cup comes perfectly balanced. Served in a dainty little glass, and ideal for sipping outside on a warm afternoon, the cold drip is our go-to after lunch beverage in Siem Reap.

Little Red Fox coffee Siem Reap

Little Red Fox in Kandal Village serves Siem Reap’s favorite coffee.

From time to time, Little Red Fox Espresso also has a single origin bean in stock for cold drip — when we visited, it was an organic bean from Laos — and it’s worth trying if they’ve got it. True to its name, the cafe serves an array of espresso drinks, flat white to americano, all made expertly by the Australian and Khmer staff, and both skim and soy milk are available. Or switch things up entirely and try a Cuban coffee, something you don’t see much of on coffee menus in Cambodia. Like many other specialty cafes in Cambodia, the Little Red Fox sources its beans, including the single origin roast, from Feel Good in Phnom Penh. Continue reading

Review: Golden Bayon Express mini-bus, Phnom Penh-Siem Reap

Golden Bayon Express is Cambodia mini-bus company that goes to a few cities, but their Phnom Penh to Siem Reap route is their most popular. If you’re looking for the quickest way to get between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap (other than flying, of course), a mini-bus is the fastest, albeit bumpiest, way to go. Golden Bayon Express does the trip in just around six hours, and when the roads aren’t so bad they claim to do it in five.

Golden Bayon Express Phnom Penh

Golden Bayon Express: A long six hours to get from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap.

Golden Bayon Express has a fleet of 15-seat Toyota HiAce, that are similar (but not as nice) to their competitor Elephant Express. These are certainly the most comfortable of all of the current mini-bus types currently on the road in Cambodia, with larger padded seats than the Ford Transits. Golden Bayon Express claims their HiAces are from 2012, and if that’s the case, they have had a long, hard two years. The interiors are dingy, with holes in the upholstery and stains on the ceilings. Continue reading

Review: Champa Mekong bus, Kep to Kampot to Phnom Penh

In my quest to find a direct bus from Kep to Phnom Penh (hint: there are none), I recently found myself on a Champa Mekong bus from Kep to Phnom Penh via Kampot, and frankly, I wouldn’t do it again.

Champa Mekong Tours and Travel

Champa Mekong is one of the least desirable ways to get from Kep or Kampot to Phnom Penh.

First of all, I thought the bus went direct from Kep to Phnom Penh, but actually it detours to stop in Kampot for 15 to 20 minutes. By car, the trip from Kep to Phnom Penh takes about 3.5 hours, and sometimes less. The 2:30 p.m. Champa Mekong bus was scheduled to arrive at 6:30 p.m., but the bus driver admitted it would be closer to 8 p.m., making for a 5.5 hour journey. On their signage at their office, though, they advertise the trip as 3.5 hours. Continue reading

Review: Rosana Broadway, Siem Reap

In Southeast Asia the term “cabaret” almost always means some sort of gender-bending performance. Siem Reap’s Rosana Broadway bills itself as an “international cabaret show” but it could more accurately be described as a “Bangkok-style ladyboy cabaret show,” and it’s one of Siem Reap’s most underrated nights out.

Rosana Broadway Siem Reap

Hello, Broadway! Rosana Broadway is Siem Reap’s most extravagant cabaret show.

Rosana Broadway has dozens of dancers and performers and the choreographed show is filled with impressive sets, extravagant costumes, singing (well, lip-syncing), dancing, and general merriment. The show is partly cultural and and partly outlandish — while it is widely known that all of the cast members are or once were boys, the website gives no hint about the performers’ transgender status, and many of the TripAdvisor reviews seem to miss the point entirely. In Siem Reap, Rosana Broadway is known as the biggest ladyboy (katuoey in Khmer) show in the country. Both terms are not particularly polite, but it’s hard to describe one of the show’s main draws without using them. Continue reading

Phnom Penh street tacos

If you’ve been wandering Street 136 at night, you may have noticed a new street food cart selling tacos and burritos. Now it is true that the menu at Phana’s Hot Tacos is an exact reproduction of Annabella’s Hot Tacos, the hipster taco truck that cruises around BKK1 slanging mediocre tacos at inflated prices. And it is also true that the lone employee of Phana’s Hot Tacos was formerly an employee of Annabella’s Hot Tacos who left, apparently taking the recipes with him. This, my friends, is no less than a taco war.

Phnom Penh taco truck

Phnom Penh’s first taco truck, Annabella’s Hot Tacos.

My complaints about Annabella’s Hot Tacos are two-fold. Or maybe three-fold. First, they are completely non-authentic tacos. An authentic taco has meat — preferably carnitas or al pastor or luscious, luscious lengua — onions, and cilantro. Salsa and hot sauce is served on the side. That is it. Tacos do not have cheese on them. Tacos do not have avocado on them. Look, I get it. You want to be creative; you want to express yourself. So put cheese on your tacos. But for the love of god, if you are billing yourself as “authentic,” have at least one traditional taco on the menu for purists like me. Continue reading

Keeping fit in Sihanoukville

Sihanoukville has plenty of fitness options if you need to work on your beach body or just work off some of those sundown cocktails, from gyms and classes to yoga and informal kickabouts, there’s something to suit most fitness levels and budgets in Sihanoukville.

Sihanoukville gym

Wonder Sports Club is a Cambodian-style gym that costs just 5,000 riel ($1.25) per visit.

If you’re looking for a gym there are several in and around the Downtown area offering a variety of facilities. Continue reading