Review: Little Red Fox, Siem Reap

When we woke up three days in a row thinking about Little Red Fox’s terrific cold drip coffee we realized we had a real problem. The cold drip coffee, brewed in an apparatus that would look at home in a science lab, is just that good — this isn’t yesterday’s coffee with a few ice cubes tossed in. The overnight, slow drip technique produces a gentle, flavorful brew, where the bright, sweet berry notes of the coffee beans shine through. No milk or sugar is needed here, as the cup comes perfectly balanced. Served in a dainty little glass, and ideal for sipping outside on a warm afternoon, the cold drip is our go-to after lunch beverage in Siem Reap.

Little Red Fox coffee Siem Reap

Little Red Fox in Kandal Village serves Siem Reap’s favorite coffee.

From time to time, Little Red Fox Espresso also has a single origin bean in stock for cold drip — when we visited, it was an organic bean from Laos — and it’s worth trying if they’ve got it. True to its name, the cafe serves an array of espresso drinks, flat white to americano, all made expertly by the Australian and Khmer staff, and both skim and soy milk are available. Or switch things up entirely and try a Cuban coffee, something you don’t see much of on coffee menus in Cambodia. Like many other specialty cafes in Cambodia, the Little Red Fox sources its beans, including the single origin roast, from Feel Good in Phnom Penh. Continue reading

Review: Golden Bayon Express mini-bus, Phnom Penh-Siem Reap

Golden Bayon Express is Cambodia mini-bus company that goes to a few cities, but their Phnom Penh to Siem Reap route is their most popular. If you’re looking for the quickest way to get between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap (other than flying, of course), a mini-bus is the fastest, albeit bumpiest, way to go. Golden Bayon Express does the trip in just around six hours, and when the roads aren’t so bad they claim to do it in five.

Golden Bayon Express Phnom Penh

Golden Bayon Express: A long six hours to get from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap.

Golden Bayon Express has a fleet of 15-seat Toyota HiAce, that are similar (but not as nice) to their competitor Elephant Express. These are certainly the most comfortable of all of the current mini-bus types currently on the road in Cambodia, with larger padded seats than the Ford Transits. Golden Bayon Express claims their HiAces are from 2012, and if that’s the case, they have had a long, hard two years. The interiors are dingy, with holes in the upholstery and stains on the ceilings. Continue reading

Review: Champa Mekong bus, Kep to Kampot to Phnom Penh

In my quest to find a direct bus from Kep to Phnom Penh (hint: there are none), I recently found myself on a Champa Mekong bus from Kep to Phnom Penh via Kampot, and frankly, I wouldn’t do it again.

Champa Mekong Tours and Travel

Champa Mekong is one of the least desirable ways to get from Kep or Kampot to Phnom Penh.

First of all, I thought the bus went direct from Kep to Phnom Penh, but actually it detours to stop in Kampot for 15 to 20 minutes. By car, the trip from Kep to Phnom Penh takes about 3.5 hours, and sometimes less. The 2:30 p.m. Champa Mekong bus was scheduled to arrive at 6:30 p.m., but the bus driver admitted it would be closer to 8 p.m., making for a 5.5 hour journey. On their signage at their office, though, they advertise the trip as 3.5 hours. Continue reading

Review: Rosana Broadway, Siem Reap

In Southeast Asia the term “cabaret” almost always means some sort of gender-bending performance. Siem Reap’s Rosana Broadway bills itself as an “international cabaret show” but it could more accurately be described as a “Bangkok-style ladyboy cabaret show,” and it’s one of Siem Reap’s most underrated nights out.

Rosana Broadway Siem Reap

Hello, Broadway! Rosana Broadway is Siem Reap’s most extravagant cabaret show.

Rosana Broadway has dozens of dancers and performers and the choreographed show is filled with impressive sets, extravagant costumes, singing (well, lip-syncing), dancing, and general merriment. The show is partly cultural and and partly outlandish — while it is widely known that all of the cast members are or once were boys, the website gives no hint about the performers’ transgender status, and many of the TripAdvisor reviews seem to miss the point entirely. In Siem Reap, Rosana Broadway is known as the biggest ladyboy (katuoey in Khmer) show in the country. Both terms are not particularly polite, but it’s hard to describe one of the show’s main draws without using them. Continue reading

Phnom Penh street tacos

If you’ve been wandering Street 136 at night, you may have noticed a new street food cart selling tacos and burritos. Now it is true that the menu at Phana’s Hot Tacos is an exact reproduction of Annabella’s Hot Tacos, the hipster taco truck that cruises around BKK1 slanging mediocre tacos at inflated prices. And it is also true that the lone employee of Phana’s Hot Tacos was formerly an employee of Annabella’s Hot Tacos who left, apparently taking the recipes with him. This, my friends, is no less than a taco war.

Phnom Penh taco truck

Phnom Penh’s first taco truck, Annabella’s Hot Tacos.

My complaints about Annabella’s Hot Tacos are two-fold. Or maybe three-fold. First, they are completely non-authentic tacos. An authentic taco has meat — preferably carnitas or al pastor or luscious, luscious lengua — onions, and cilantro. Salsa and hot sauce is served on the side. That is it. Tacos do not have cheese on them. Tacos do not have avocado on them. Look, I get it. You want to be creative; you want to express yourself. So put cheese on your tacos. But for the love of god, if you are billing yourself as “authentic,” have at least one traditional taco on the menu for purists like me. Continue reading

Keeping fit in Sihanoukville

Sihanoukville has plenty of fitness options if you need to work on your beach body or just work off some of those sundown cocktails, from gyms and classes to yoga and informal kickabouts, there’s something to suit most fitness levels and budgets in Sihanoukville.

Sihanoukville gym

Wonder Sports Club is a Cambodian-style gym that costs just 5,000 riel ($1.25) per visit.

If you’re looking for a gym there are several in and around the Downtown area offering a variety of facilities. Continue reading

Eating crab in Kep: The crab shack face-off, Part 3

Kep’s crab shack row continues to expand with new offerings, and previously ignored hole-in-the-walls are now getting our attention as we attempt to eat at every crab shack in Kep. If you haven’t read our Kep crab shack face-off  part one and part two, start there. We’re just back from a business trip to Kep (read: we were hungry for crab) and have more crab shack reviews to add to our growing list.

Kep crab shacks

They may all look the same, but some of Kep’s crab shacks are better than others.

Maelis

This slightly more sophisticated crab shack is French-owned and it shows. The lighting is better, for one, there is art on the walls, and there’s a proper bar up front, usually with a few Kep expats hanging around. The menu is smaller than the average crab shack binder full of 60 dishes, but they still have most of the usual favorites, steamed crab, crab with Kampot pepper, crab with curry sauce, battered prawns, stir-fried squid…you get the idea. They also have French dishes, including a very nice fish tartare, plus other Western dishes like steak and hot dogs. If you’re with someone that is sick of seafood (it does happen after a few days) but you aren’t, this is a good place to go. Continue reading

Exploring Chinese cuisine in Phnom Penh

It’s Chinese New Year this week and everyone in Phnom Penh is celebrating. Head to the market and get your fake $100 bills and a cardboard Lexus, and then out to dinner to try some authentic Chinese cuisine. Here are our favorite Chinese restaurants in Phnom Penh:

Xiang Palace InterContinental

Celebrate Chinese New Year with a dinner at Xiang Palace.

Xiang Palace at The Great Duke

Xiang Palace is the upscale Chinese restaurant at the swish Great Duke (formerly InterContinental) Phnom Penh. They serve refined Cantonese fare, including a wide selection of dim sum (yum cha for you Cantonese speakers). The menu is authentic according to my Cantonese-speaking friend that I dragged along to try the dim sum. On a more recent visit, we loved the Chinese roasted duck and sweet char siu pork belly. They’re having a Chinese New Year special menu for the entire month of February with delicacies such as Yoshihama abalone and scallops with X.O. sauce (a personal favorite of mine), plus their regular menu of dim sum, Cantonese specialties, and specialty Chinese teas. If you’re looking for a high-end Chinese New Year meal, this is the place to go.

Open daily, 6:30 a.m. to 10.30 p.m.
296 Mao Tse Tung Blvd, Phnom Penh
T: 023 424 888 extension 3562
phnompenh.intercontinental.com/xiang-palace

Man Hao Ji Noodle Shop

This Taiwanese-owned noodle shop serves a small menu of Chinese noodle dishes and side dishes. The place doesn’t have much in the way of ambiance — a few tables and nothing decorates the walls other than a few copies of a glowing review of the place — but the food is authentic, delicious, and cheap. Their specialty is noodle soup, cooked in the Chinese style with red braised beef flavored with star anise and Shaoxing wine. At $5, it’s the most expensive thing on the menu, but well worth it. If this sounds appealing, read our full review of Man Hao Ji Noodle Shop on the blog.

Open daily, 7:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
39 Street 118 (at Street 17), Daun Penh, Phnom Penh
T: 089 265 065

Chinese Noodle Restaurant Phnom Penh

Called Chinese New Year’s cake, this savory dish is a cheap and delicious way to celebrate the holiday.

Chinese Noodle Restaurant

Expat favorite Chinese Noodle Restaurant is known for their cheap, hand-pulled noodles and homemade dumplings. This is one of those places that is often referred to as a “little-known secret” but is actually very widely known and you’ll always see at least a few English teachers enjoying their delicious fare at ridiculously low prices — a bowl of noodles can be had for less than $2. One of their specialties is Shanghai-style nian gao, also known as Chinese New Year’s cake. The dish consists of slices of chewy rice cakes, stir-fried with wilted lettuce and shiitake mushrooms in an addictive savory sauce. If you’re looking for an inexpensive way to celebrate Chinese New Year, at $2 this dish is the way to do it.

Open daily, 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.
545Eo Monivong Blvd, BKK2, Phnom Penh
T: 012 937 805

Chinese dumplings and hand-pulled noodles

On Street 136 between Monivong and Central Market there are a row of unassuming Chinese restaurants, all serving hand-pulled noodles and homemade dumplings. If you’re craving Chinese food or need a carb infusion, this is the street to head to. Our favorite of the bunch is Herk Fung, but it doesn’t matter which one you choose — they’re all pretty good. Read our full blog post about the Chinese restaurants on Street 136 with reviews and details for individual restaurants.

Emperors of China Phnom Penh

The best of both worlds, dim sum and Cantonese specialties at Emperors of China.

Emperors of China

Another upscale Cantonese restaurant, Emperors of China has a full menu of reasonably priced dim sum. The dim sum menu is so good, in fact, that I’ve tried very little else on their menu, although I have heard it is good. My favorites are the “carrot cake,” actually small radish cakes with X.O. sauce, prawn shui mai topped with tiny orange flying fish roe, and har gow, steamed shrimp dumplings with a chewy rice wrapper. Although it’s a lovely restaurant, the service at Emperors at China can be mediocre, because allegedly they only hire leggy models with no waitressing experience, which can make for a frustrating, if good looking, experience.

Open daily, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 10 p.m.
19 Street 63, Olympic, Phnom Penh
T: 023 637 6663
emperorschina.com

Dim Sum Emperors

A spin-off restaurant of Emperors of China, Dim Sum Emperors is a more casual, slightly less expensive restaurant that serves primarily dim sum. The menu features 19 types of dim sum as well as inexpensive rice and noodle bowls. My favorite dim sum here are the crab meat and coriander dumplings and xiao long bao, also known as soup dumplings, and steamed pork ribs with black bean sauce. The service at Dim Sum Emperors is far less infuriating than at their sister restaurant and their service is fast and capable. We’ve got a full review of Dim Sum Emperors on the blog if you want to know more.

Open daily, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Corner of Street 130 and Street 53, next to Central Market, Phnom Penh
T: 023 650 7452
dimsumemperors.com

Do you have any favorite Chinese restaurants in Phnom Penh? Share them in the comments.

The InterContinental is a Move to Cambodia advertiser and we ate at Xiang Palace recently for free. We’ve also paid to eat at Xiang Palace in the past (and went with a Cantonese speaker who deemed it authentic!). For more information on how we deal with freebies and advertisers, please read our disclosures.