Somlor Kakor Cooking Class, Siem Reap

I’m often asked to recommend a cooking class in Siem Reap and I’m ashamed to admit that I’ve never actually taken one in temple town. I’ve looked at a few but they all seem painfully tourist-oriented, and the menus are always the same: spring rolls, green mango salad, and amok. You’ll learn as much about Cambodian cuisine from these classes as you’ll learn about local culture by hanging out on Pub Street.

But when I heard that one of my favorite restaurateurs in town had decided to offer a daytime cooking class, I was eager to try it out. Sela has a open-air restaurant on the outskirts of Siem Reap that’s frequented almost exclusively by locals. On the property he has a small organic garden and a few chickens and dogs wander around the place. To my eyes, it’s the perfect spot for a cooking class.

Siem Reap cooking class

We made this! Young banana tree salad with fish marinated in lime juice.

So when I had family visiting, I took the opportunity to try it out. The name of the class is Somlor Kakor Cooking Class, which I took as a good sign. Somlor kakor is a quintessentially Cambodian dish, and one that you’ll never find on the menu at restaurants aimed at foreigners. Continue reading

Review: JC Airlines flight Phnom Penh to Siem Reap

Gone are the days of limited domestic flights in Cambodia. Now, there are any number of options for domestic flights in Cambodia: between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and Siem Reap and Sihanoukville. JC Airlines is the latest addition to the market, and are offering cheap flights on both of these routes.

JC Airlines Cambodia

JC International Airlines aren’t skimping on the plane size, even between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

JC Airlines are operating two full-size A320 planes — these are not the nerve-wracking propeller planes flown by some of the other airlines in Cambodia. The hard product is pretty basic, with cheap but not uncomfortable seats. If you’ve flown budget airlines like Ryanair you’ll have an idea of what I’m talking about. Continue reading

Kampot Sunday roasts

The Sunday roast, an English staple, has found a home away from home here with the many expats in Kampot. Not one, not two, but three different restaurants fire up their ovens to bring that warm, comforting goodness every weekend. If you’re tempted by the thought of a Sunday roast in Kampot, Bokor Mountain Lodge, Brass Monkey, and Rusty Keyhole Two each offer a slightly different menu with tasty sides and mouth-watering mains.

Rusty 2 roast Kampot

The Rusty 2 Sunday roast offers the choice of lamb, pork, or beef. (This is a lamb mini-roast)

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Ream National Park: Where to stay, what to see, and how to get there

Located just 18km east of Sihanoukville, Ream National Park covers 210 square kilometers of  jungle, rivers, mangroves, and lush tropical islands. The park is also home to an amazing array of wildlife and marine life, including over 155 species of bird, sun bears, gibbons, pangolin, fishing cats, turtles, dolphins, and even dugongs. Here’s our guide to escaping the crowds and exploring the beautiful scenery and natural wildlife in Ream National Park on Cambodia’s southern coast.

Ream National Park Cambodia

If you’re on the coast, don’t miss Ream National Park.

Established by King Norodom Sihanouk in 1993, the first National Park in peacetime Cambodia is also one of the most historically important; its sandy shores and forested peaks providing the perfect location for the Vietnamese insurgence against the Khmer Rouge in 1979. In a way, it feels like Ream has changed little since then. The lush jungle and beautiful beaches are still all but untouched by tourism, and there are only a few villages and guesthouses tucked away within the confines of the park. While there is a bit more industry including oil and gas mines and a big military base, this doesn’t detract from the beauty of the park or of the sense of authentic Cambodia you get as you pass through. Continue reading

How to get from Battambang to Koh Kong through the Cardamom Mountains

Getting from Battambang to Koh Kong is not for the faint of heart. This trip, no matter how you do it, is long and grueling. But if you’ve got a few days to spare, it makes for an excellent adventure into one of the most remote corners of Cambodia.

If you’re going to try to make the trip, you have essentially two options: on your own by motorcycle, or by a combination of buses or cars. The motorcycle route is also possible on a good mountain bike, but requires a high level of fitness and is not to be taken on lightly.

How to get to Ou Som Pursat

Ready for an adventure?

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Review: Haven Training Restaurant, Siem Reap

Haven got its name because it’s a social-enterprise restaurant that offers training and safe shelter to disadvantaged young Cambodians. But it’s a haven for diners as well, providing both well-made Western favorites and some pretty authentic Cambodian specialties, using many organic, locally produced ingredients and adhering to international food safety standards. This is food you can feel good about in just about every way.

Haven Cambodia

Try the chicken morning-glory soup, it’s delish.

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You and the night and the music: Dancing in Kampot

Kampot’s nightlife differs from the other major Cambodian cities due to its smaller size and the laid-back nature of the town. Visitors generally care more about chilling out along the riverside or chatting with people in the numerous bars, rather than getting their party on. Those looking for drug-fueled jungle parties should head to Sihanoukville or one of the islands. But don’t worry, Kampot has its own style of dance party.

Kampot at night

When night falls on Kampot it’s time to put on your dancing shoes!

The expats here are known as Kampotheads for good reason, and the ever-growing number of watering holes should indicate exactly the kind of trouble you can find in this mellow city. The town grows more lively on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights with weekly parties to satisfy everyone’s urge to shimmy. Although you may find yourself in the middle of an impromptu dance party almost anywhere in town, if you want a guaranteed evening of shaking your booty, be sure to head to one of the places listed below for one of Kampot’s weekly dance parties! Continue reading

Review: Larryta Express, Phnom Penh – Siem Reap

Larryta Express has been around for a couple of years now, but have never really taken off with foreigners because — seriously — their logo is hard to read. I’ve actually had someone ask me if I’ve taken the “squiggly van” before.  The answer is yes! I took a Larryta Express mini-bus from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap last week and have the full report.

Larryta Express Phnom Penh

It’s not just a squiggle, it’s Larryta Express!

Larryta Express have a fleet of new vans, and have more daily departures than any other company I know about, going from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap nine times a day, and the same from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh. Because they have so many departures, it’s easy to get a ticket even on the same day. Continue reading