Review: Caucasus Georgian Restaurant, Siem Reap

Posted on July 6, 2023 by Lina Goldberg

I love Georgian food. I have never actually been to Georgia, but I have multiple Georgian cookbooks and I’ve eaten Georgian cuisine at highly regarded restaurants in New York, London, and Ukraine. (I’ve heard that the Georgian food in Ukraine is better than in Georgia, though I have no idea if that’s true.) So imagine my surprise when I found the best Georgian food I’ve ever had in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Katchapuri, a delicious cheesy Georgian bread (the country not the state!)

The word supra in Georgian literally means tablecloth, but it has come to signify a Georgian feast with a table laden with traditional dishes. This is exactly what we got at Caucasus, a restaurant on Siem Reap’s Bamboo Street run by a Georgian family. The menu features all of the traditional favorites, including khachapuri, a boat-shaped bread filled with melted cheese and, sometimes, egg, and khinkali, meat-stuffed dumplings. Continue reading →

Mind your language! Learning Khmer in Phnom Penh

Posted on June 10, 2023 by Susan Haythorpe

“Jum riab sua. Knom chmuah Susan.” Likely the first words you’ll be taught (minus the ‘Susan’ unless that happens to be your name too) when you embark on the sometimes frustrating but ultimately rewarding journey to learning Khmer.

Living in Phnom Penh? Why not work on learning Khmer?

It’s fair to say that if you want to acquire a better understanding of a country and its culture you need to learn the language, and not just because it makes for more satisfying conversation with local people. A tutor told me you need a smiling face to pronounce many Khmer words — how lovely is that, a language that needs a smile to be spoken correctly? Continue reading →

Rabies! Or what to do if you get bitten by a dog in Cambodia

Posted on April 26, 2023 by Lina Goldberg

Recently I was bitten by a dog in Siem Reap. It was a dog who was known to me, a dog I had pet with no issue a few days before, and a dog I was fairly certain had received at least one rabies vaccination a couple of years earlier. But the bite broke the skin, there was a little bit of blood, and I was yet again faced with the question, do I really need to get more rabies shots?

Don’t pet strange dogs, even if they are adorable.

This is a question that many people living in and visiting Cambodia have. The hassle of getting a series of rabies shots can seem onerous, and the risk miniscule. But after talking to friends and a few friendly doctors, I quickly came to realize that rabies is one of the few illnesses that you don’t want to mess around with. Continue reading →

Guilt-free shopping at Phnom Penh’s new Eco concept store

Posted on April 17, 2023 by Susan Haythorpe

For those of us who love a spot of retail therapy there’s only one thing better than a shopping trip — and that’s the opportunity to shop sustainably in the knowledge you’re supporting some of the most eco-friendly brands in Cambodia.

Sandy Kotan at the Be Eco! opening in Phnom Penh.

Be Eco! is Phnom Penh’s new, go-to marketplace for sustainably and ethically produced and retailed goods. The brainchild of Sandy Kotan, eco zealot and owner of the company Only One Planet, it brings together under one roof an array of products — from clothing and handicrafts to kids stuff and homewares — from over twenty very different sustainable businesses with a shared social conscience. Continue reading →

Review: Cuisine Wat Damnak, Phnom Penh

Posted on March 28, 2023 by Lina Goldberg

It’s no secret that Cuisine Wat Damnak is my favorite restaurant in Siem Reap, but I wondered if the Phnom Penh branch, which opened during the pandemic, could possibly be as good. Happily, I only have positive things to report.

Sampling lunch at Cuisine Wat Damnak in Phnom Penh.

Cuisine Wat Damnak’s philosophy is that terroir defines authentic Cambodian flavors — that fish from the Tonle Sap and herbs foraged in the provinces will always produce a superior dish. They use local ingredients to create traditional Cambodian flavors, combined and prepared in creative and non-traditional ways. Continue reading →

Damn fine coffee! Where to find it in Phnom Penh

Posted on March 17, 2023 by Susan Haythorpe

Need a caffeine boost? You can’t go wrong in Phnom Penh. Coffee culture is thriving in Phnom Penh, from the bright pink coffee tuk tuks to international chains, not to mention countless cool independent coffee shops that rival those found in any international capital.

Looking for the best coffee in Phnom Penh? In 2023 there are more options than ever.

All preferences and pockets are catered for in this caffeine-soaked city. Step outside your apartment and there’s likely to be a cute little coffee kiosk within 100 meters, and it’s just as likely to have appeared overnight. In the last few years these small, local coffee stalls have been popping up all over town. A growing industry exists to equip and supply them — Cambodia is, after all, a coffee-producing nation — and operators can buy or rent the often quite sophisticated coffee machines. Iced or hot, the coffee they serve is generally pretty decent, particularly for the price (around 6,000 riels, or $1.50) and the pavement seats are a great place to watch the neighborhood go by. Continue reading →

Review: Giant Ibis buses, Phnom Penh to Siem Reap (and vice versa)

Posted on February 16, 2023 by Lina Goldberg

If you’re skeptical about getting from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap by bus, allow me to assure you that it’s an excellent way to travel in Cambodia! The road from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap is sealed now, which means a smooth rode with views of the Cambodian countryside, and the trip takes between 5.5 and 6 hours. Giant Ibis, with its onboard power points and WiFi, offers  the best full-size bus experiences in 2023. In this post, I’ll cover Giant Ibis day buses and night buses between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, both of which I have taken many times.

Giant Ibis 2023

Giant Ibis is the most popular full-size bus between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Photo from 2023.

Giant Ibis table of contents

Continue reading →

What’s that sound? Cambodia’s Golden Age music still rocks the Kingdom

Posted on October 9, 2022 by Susan Haythorpe

For many people Cambodia’s history is synonymous with Angkor Wat and the Khmer Rouge, but the Kingdom of Wonder has another, upbeat story to tell (albeit with a tragic ending). The era known as Cambodia’s Golden Age of Music is still very much a part of the country’s popular culture.

Two Sin Sisamouth and Ros Sereysothea record covers

Rock royalty: Surviving records by Sin Sisamouth and Ros Sereysothea. Image courtesy CVMA.

In the 1960s Phnom Penh was one groovy city. The city was a cultural hotspot with its own, distinctive style of modernist architecture; an international playground for an affluent, arty crowd who flocked to its many cinemas and danced at fashionable nightclubs to music from the country’s top recording artists like Sin Sisamouth, Ros Sereysothea, and Pan Ron.   Continue reading →