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Expat Q&A: “I literally tore up my return ticket back to England”

Posted on March 17, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they know now that they wish they had known when they first moved to Cambodia. This week we talk with British expat Scotty Davis.

Scotty, appreciating a moment on the floor in Phnom Penh.

Scotty Davis is originally from Liverpool and decided to make Cambodia home five years ago. He spends most of his time doing stand-up comedy (look for Scotty Muldoon on the comedy club lineups) and fronting the indie rock band, the Teaner Terners — “the city ain’t gonna entertain itself,” he says. In terms of gainful employment, he also teaches English to young learners in Phnom Penh.

MTC: Scotty, how did you end up an expat and what do you wish you had known before you moved to Cambodia?

SD: “I’ve been living overseas as a British national for 11 years now. The vast majority of which have been spent in Asia. Kanchanaburi, Thailand, was the first port of call that I chose to drop anchor and embark upon a life of expattery. The cognitive rationale—or, to be more accurate, the flimsy excuse—that drove my decision to make the initial leap into an unknown cocktail of existence that, in those early days, consisted of, but was not limited to: sweating profusely, listening to pretentious expats trying to out-knowledge each other on obscure local geography, the unremitting confusion of all external stimuli, not to mention the frustrating mental burnout brought on by the ever shifting immigration laws, fees, and paperwork related to procuring visas and work permits, was, I swear, to save money on airfare.

I returned to Liverpool after each of my backpacking adventures around Southeast Asia and knew that I would keep flitting back and forth between the two regions, such was my attraction to these newly encountered and fantastical lands I’d discovered. It was like an entirely new reality with different freedoms to explore; a reality without the narrow-minded social narrative that seemed to sully peoples’ opinions. And so, during one of my travels, I made the decision to stay put in Thailand and literally tore up my return ticket back to England.

A number of years later, after relocating to Hong Kong, I visited Cambodia on a short trip and couldn’t help but immediately identify with its gritty personality and no-nonsense nonsense (I realise that sentence doesn’t make sense but that’s my point!). I only spent 10 days in country and knew I wanted to return some day. Eventually, circumstances dictated that I was in a position where I was able to make a choice of where to move to following on from Hong Kong. It was a no brainer, really. Within hours my ticket to Phnom Penh was booked. That was almost five years ago.

Because of my time spent living in Asia, coupled with the fact that I had already visited Cambodia, when I eventually made the permanent move to reside in Phnom Penh there was no difficult period of adjustment or unexpected culture shock on my part. Plus, I also had a couple of friends who were living here already when I arrived, and, being a gregarious person, it didn’t take long to feel like a part of the social fabric of the city.

11 years on from my decision to turn my back on my homeland and I still sweat profusely. The confusion of external stimuli reached a plateau and then tailed off, not unlike the tuning out of white noise after a prolonged period, and also because I became a more confusing, complex person myself, thus I must have met it somewhere in the middle of the chaos scale. Obtaining visas became easier over time through practice and patience. Here in Cambodia, though, you don’t even need practice at visa applications or, surprisingly, patience. Just currency. And now, true to form, I have discovered through the self-reflection of writing this summary of my time here that I am indeed now one of those pretentious expats trying to out-knowledge other expats on obscure local geography.

So, back to things I wish I’d known when I first moved to Cambodia that I know now:

Major Sports Results

I’m not a gambler but back in 2009, if I knew the major sports results that have happened in the interim, I would have placed bets on all those games I could remember the results of, cashing in like Biff in Back To The Future II. Only without a DeLorean.

Never Get 3 Month Visa Extensions

During the first couple of years here I exclusively only got 3-month visa extensions. I hugely regret this. My advice is only get 12-month extensions—six months minimum—even if it puts you out of pocket for a short time. All those 3-month visas rapidly take up space in your passport and renewing a British passport in Phnom Penh is very costly. Not only that, 3-month visas are not multiple-entry, which effectively self-imprisons you within the Kingdom’s borders whilst your friends go on holidays to Thailand/Vietnam/Laos while you remain at home, too proud to renege on the 2.5 weeks you have left on your visa. But then of course you end up going with them anyway, invalidating those 2.5 remaining weeks and then have to buy a new visa on re-entry. If you want to follow in my footsteps and still not learn a single thing from this futile exercise, do what I did and extend that reluctant visa by only 3 months again.

And again.
And again.
And again.

Trust me. It’s cheaper in the long run and more convenient to extend your visa as long as possible.

Freshie Boys

Had I known, when I first moved here, about these annoying little sh*ts that needlessly weave in and out of traffic on their Scoopys/Finos, putting peoples lives at risk whilst simultaneously trying to fix their Rod Stewart-esque hairdos in their wing mirrors at 80kph, I would have immediately gone out and bought an old, clapped-out, run-down, disgustingly cheap motorbike, taped myself up in foam padding and bubble wrap and rode around the streets of Phnom Penh hunting down Freshie Boys.

As soon as I’d have spotted a Scoopy/Fino with the obligatory two or three Freshie Boys mounted upon their motorized steed, I’d have tailed them until they inevitably committed an act of gross stupidity, rode up alongside them, let them laugh at my regalia and rusty motorbike for a second and then… BAM, jumped off of my speeding vehicle and taken the lot of them out with a double clothesline. I’d have walked away unscathed, dusted of my dented, old motorbike and got back to work finding another gaggle of Freshie Boys to educate on traffic etiquette. You know what? I still might do that. Just wish I’d have started earlier.”

6 reasons to bother learning Khmer

Posted on March 14, 2014 by Steven Halcrow

It’s true that one of the appealing things about moving to Cambodia is the expat’s ability to survive in-country without learning much of the local language. But just because you can get by without learning to speak Khmer, does that mean you should? Here are six reasons you should bite the bullet and start learning Khmer the minute you arrive.

Learning Khmer in fabric market in Phnom Penh

Nothing puts an anxious mind at ease like understanding what people are saying about you.

1. You’ll save money

Tuk tuks and food are two staples of life in Cambodia (although not to be confused with one another). If you learn even basic Khmer you will find that both will cost slightly less in the short term, and add up to a considerable saving in the long term. At the market, it will help to find a stall owner that patiently waits as you try and decipher what she has said, instead of shouting her friends over to gather round and laugh in your face as they watch you struggle with your own feeble grasp of Khmer numbers. Of course you don’t need to learn Khmer–tuk tuk drivers are happy to speak English, especially if they say ‘ten dollars?’ and you agree. A few basic phrases lets the driver know that you’ve been here long enough to know a fair price.

2. It will make you look less stupid

Standing in the street speaking loudly in broken English will not get you very far unless your goal in life is to have passers-by pause to take note of how ridiculous you sound. Your English may even deteriorate to the point where it doesn’t even make any sense in English as you repeatedly fail to adhere to even the most basic of grammatical rules. This attempt to over simplify what you are trying (badly) to say is a tell tale sign of a breakdown in communication. You will look and sound considerably less ridiculous if you are trying to speak in rudimentary Khmer as opposed to speaking with confidence in unbelievably poor English.
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3. It will make you feel more intelligent

Khmer is not widely spoken outside of Cambodia, but being the native tongue, it certainly comes in handy when you’re here. Your communication skills will become sharper and you will generally feel more in tune with your environment, allowing you to get so much more out of your experience here. The UN may not be knocking down your door as a result of your heightened sense of communicative awareness, but you will find a definite sense of intellectual satisfaction the first time you are able to conduct a fair negotiation with a tuk tuk. This is in addition to the elevated sense of pride as you watch all the other expats filing out of Lucky supermarket with cornflakes and cheese as you head to Kandal to haggle over the price of a pig’s ass.

4. It will not be expensive

Teaching methods in Cambodia still leave a little to be desired, but at least it’s cheap. Some Khmer lessons involve simply turning up and listening to the teacher speak only Khmer the whole time. The idea is that you listen and observe, and even though a lesson may be as little as $5, you can get a similar experience sitting in a crowded noodle shop where you will only be charged a dollar for soup. You can start to pick up words from just listening and the language may start to sound familiar as you identify commonly used words, but a proper lesson holds a far greater value and good teachers are out there. If you find one it still won’t cost more than $6 or $7 per hour.

5. To better understand when you’re being insulted

They say that ignorance is bliss, but sometimes it helps when you are surrounded by a group of Cambodians all laughing at your overwhelmingly foreign attributes—such as your sweatiness or your hopeless attempts to communicate—to be able to understand a few specifics about what exactly they find so funny. Merely standing there with a slightly imbecilic grin on your face as the comments bounce off you will not cause you any long lasting damage, but if you are able to offer a basic short rebuttal indicating how rude they are being, they will, most of the time keep their comments to themselves and maybe even wait until you are out of earshot before they go back to ridiculing you.

6. Because you are not at home any more

Some would argue that moving to a foreign country and not even attempting the language is just plain rude. Try whenever you can to speak the lingo, the locals are certainly not under any obligation to speak English. You don’t have to go and hang out with every Khmer that you exchange words with but after a while you may find that smiling incessantly and mumbling barely coherent Khmer/English noises under your breath when getting change for a $100 bill at the Panda Mart (oh, the guilt), tends to wear a bit thin. Kids working in marts are always keen to exchange a few words in English and this can give you a vague feeling of self worth (if you’re not already working as an English teacher) but wouldn’t you get a far greater kick out of forcing a laugh from the ancient woman who spends all day at the market selling pieces of a chopped-up pig? With a little bit of basic Khmer, she may even give you the local price.

Where to stay on Koh Rong

Posted on March 13, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

I’m going to wager that since moving to Cambodia, I’ve spent more time on Koh Rong than any other travel writer out there. Over the years, I’ve stayed at a number of places on the island and poked my head in and looked at rooms at many, many more. This time around I checked out some of the newest places on the island (stay tuned for more next week). Despite how much has changed as of late, I still have my favorites amongst the best places to stay on Koh Rong. First on the list: Paradise Bungalows and Monkey Island.

The beach in front of Paradise Bungalows on Koh Rong

A little slice of Paradise on Koh Rong.

Paradise Bungalows was the first accommodation on the popular eastern side of Koh Rong, and as the competition has increased, the owner, Rudy, has only upped his game. At this point it’s safe to say that Paradise Bungalows is the best place to stay in the Koh Toch Beach area. What sets it apart? Attention to detail.

Paradise’s bungalows are located on a beautiful stretch of white sand beach, and the less expensive ones are further back in the tropical jungle. Whichever bungalow you end up in, though, you can enjoy the tidy Paradise stretch of beach.

It’s the attention to detail that makes Paradise Bungalows so nice.

Paradise’s bungalows are located on a beautiful stretch of white sand beach; the less expensive ones are further back in the tropical jungle. Whichever bungalow you end up in, though, you can enjoy the tidy Paradise stretch of beach.

The Paradise Bungalows are nicer than the rest–even the ones that look just like theirs–because of the little details, like lights made from traditional Cambodian fishing baskets festooned with seashells, or even something as simple as providing shelving to keep your clothing on, an amenity that most bungalows neglect.

Welcome to Paradise.

Even if you aren’t staying at Paradise, it’s the best place to go if you’re trying to avoid the backpacker vibe. The gorgeous wooden restaurant and lounge is made from recycled teak and features ambient lighting, relaxed seating, and a world music soundtrack. There’s also a decent selection of wine available by the glass ($4) or bottle ($15-20ish). They’ve got several surprisingly efficient staff members, which makes it one of the most stress-free places to hang out.

The only downside is that Paradise Bungalows are usually booked up three months in advance, which is probably because the prices are so extremely reasonable. Prices for the fan bungalows range from $35 to $75 per night, and you can book on their website or through their booking office in Sihanoukville.

Paradise Bungalows

Koh Toch beach,Koh Rong
T: 092 548 883 (Sihanoukville booking office)
paradise-bungalows.com

Monkey Island

Popular with backpackers and flashpackers, the Monkey Island bungalows have been designed to hold the maximum number of people possible; every bungalow sleeps at least four people. Our group of three stayed in two bungalows, and each bungalow had three beds, presumably so backpackers can bunk together to save money. The bungalows are simple, but nice. They’re made from treated wood with locally made thatched roofs and walls with windows that are locked using a piece of wood. There have been a lot of thefts in the past, so now every bungalow has a wooden security box for your valuables. Bring your own lock (or they sell new ones for $3). Bungalows have hammocks and chairs outside. The bungalows are not particularly tidy, and many of the amenities have seen better days. But that doesn’t matter if you’re just there to party, right?

Monkey around at the Monkey Island bungalows on Koh Rong.

Monkey Island is probably the most fun place to stay on the island. The large restaurant area is constantly filled with people and music–what kind of music depends on the mood of the bartender and can be anything from hip hop to Britpop. Happy hour lasts from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m., during which time cocktails, which are already reasonably prices at $3 or $3.50, are offered two-for-one. If you’re looking to meet other people and hang out (and don’t want to stay in the village proper), Monkey is the place to stay.

The beach in front of Monkey is lovely as well, with white sand and calm, turquoise waters, and they’ve got a lot of it. There are hammocks hung between some of the trees and it’s an ideal place to read a book or just woolgather. They also make an effort to clean the beach and keep everything in their area tidy, which is a far cry from the indifference of most accommodations in the village proper.

Koh Toch beach, Koh Rong.

The food at Monkey Island is also worth trying—particularly the Thai curries. Prices are low (around $3.50) and portions are enormous. They also have good Western fare and the prices are no more expensive than on the mainland. Service can be a bit a bit spotty, so order drinks first and have some patience when it’s crowded.

Monkey Bungalows sleep 4-5 people and cost between $25 and $35, depending on proximity to the beach and whether they have a private or shared bathroom. Book online or at Monkey Republic on Serendipity Beach Road in Sihanoukville.

Monkey Island

Koh Toch beach, Koh Rong
T:081 830 992; 081 830 991 (Sihanoukville booking office)
monkeyisland-kohrong.com

Review: Hotel Cambodiana, Phnom Penh architectural landmark

Posted on March 10, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

The Hotel Cambodiana in Phnom Penh is a stunning example of the New Khmer architectural style–you’ll either love it or you’ll hate it, but it’s sure to make an impression, much like carved wooden scale model of the temples of Angkor found in their lobby.

New Khmer architecture (it’s a thing) at the Hotel Cambodiana in Phnom Penh.

The Cambodiana is a massive hotel with a long and storied history. Soon after the hotel opened in 1969, the government was overthrown and Lon Nol soldiers used the hotel as military barracks, Later, the building was finally abandoned by the Khmer Rouge. Since then the hotel has been restored to its former glory, although it’s unclear whether or not they are still using the original decor or just going for a retro feel. Either way, this is not the sleekest most modern hotel in town, but they do have good deals on rooms and the best views in town.

Hotel Cambodiana looks out over the Mekong, and all of their river view rooms have stunning views of the action on the river. Even the rooms with city views make for pretty good goggling as the windows in every room are quite big and the rooms are high up enough to give a nice view of town.

A basic room at the Hotel Cambodiana, Phnom Penh.

Rooms are the standard, slightly worn, luxury hotel style. There’s nothing exciting here, but they’re immaculately clean with renovated bathrooms with bathtubs, and large, flat-screen televisions. They can also provide rollaway beds for kids, and they include a breakfast buffet every morning.

The rooms are large, and they have four types. Deluxe and superior rooms, and junior and executive suites that feature marble bathrooms and an extra room for watching TV and having meetings. Many of the rooms are for smokers, so be sure to ask for a non-smoking room if you prefer. Prices for the Mekong Club floor are $20-30 more for similar rooms, but they offer better views, a buffet breakfast, a two-hour “snack time” from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. with free sunset drinks and appetizers, daily newspaper delivery and other VIP offerings.

Laze at the Cambodiana Hotel pool while gazing at the Mekong.

Guests also get access to the hotel’s fully equipped gym (check out our full review), steam rooms and sauna. Spend the day lounging by the recently-renovated pool and take a spot on a sun lounger that looks out onto the Mekong River. They also have two tennis courts with racket rentals, and if you want to improve your game, lessons are only $8 an hour. That’s hard to beat!

Rack rates for the rooms are between $200 and $700, but if you walk-in they are 50% off and they are even cheaper on Booking.com and Agoda, with rates as low as $75.

→ Check prices and book a room at on Booking.com or Agoda now.

Booking.com

Hotel Cambodiana

313 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh
T: 023 218 189
hotelcambodiana.com.kh

Looking for more? View the full Phnom Penh city guide for tips on where to stay, what to eat, and things to see and do.

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How to get visa and passport photos in Phnom Penh

Posted on March 7, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

One has plenty of reasons to need lots of passport photos in Cambodia. You’ll need one just to get into the country, every time you renew your visa, when you try to enter many of the neighboring countries, and even for job applications. So you may be wondering where you can get passport photos made in Phnom Penh. Never fear, it’s fast, painless, and ten times cheaper than at home.

Girl cutting passport photos at Good Luck Printing Phnom Penh

Unlike at home, they’ll even cut your passport photos for you in Cambodia.

You can get passport photos made at any of the photo shops in town. You can recognize these by the giant cheesecake portraits of couples and women in traditional Cambodian dress posted outside. They will usually say “photo shop” and have pictures of photographs or printers on the outside. There are photo shops every few blocks all over central Phnom Penh. On Sihanouk Boulevard, just next to the corner of Street 51, there are three photo shops next to each other. I’ve used them all and they all do the job (addresses and phone numbers below).

The best part about getting passport photos in Cambodia is that they have suits and ties at the photo shop that you can wear if you so desire (and it’s not a bad idea if you’re applying for a job in Cambodia). Also, despite passport regulations in many countries, Cambodian photo shops have no compunction about using Photoshop to remove any unsightly blemishes.

Photo shops on Sihanouk Blvd, Phnom Penh

A bank of three photo shops on Sihanouk Blvd next to the corner of Street 51, Phnom Penh.

Passport photos cost 5,000 riel ($1.25) for four photos. You may be quoted as much as $3 or $4, but be assured that that going rate is 5,000 riel. They may suggest you pay $2 if you want 30-minute service. In most cases, if you decline and just wait, they will give them to you for 5,000 riel in 15 minutes.

If you’re using the photos for visas, any of the regular sizes are fine. However, if you are getting a new passport be aware that your country has specific requirements that the photo shops might not be aware of. It’s best to bring instructions for what you need for your photo if you are getting a new passport. You can find guidelines for your country on your government’s website. Here are a few: US passport photos, Australia passport photos, and UK passport photos.

Good Luck Printing

84 Sihanouk Blvd, Phnom Penh
T: 023 721 222; 092 814 889

Kim Long Photo Digital

Sihanouk Blvd, Phnom Penh
T: 023 721 144

Lucky Digital Printing

Sihanouk Blvd, Phnom Penh
T: 012 430 228; 023 213 215

Review: Elephant Express mini-bus, Phnom Penh-Siem Reap

Posted on March 6, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

As of June, 2015, Elephant Express is no longer in business.

Elephant Express (aka Elephant Expresses Transportation) used to have a reputation for being the safest of all of the mini-bus services between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Based on a trip I took a few days ago, I think they’ve changed their business plan and are now the fastest mini-bus going from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh.

Elephant Express uses Toyota HiAces to get you from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap (or vice-versa).

The road from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh is not idea. Because the road is so bad, the trip between Phnom Penh and can take much longer than usual. The average is 5.5 to 8 hours, the shortest for mini-buses and taxis, the longest for big buses that stop a lot. Our trip on Elephant took about 6 hours, including three breaks. This was only due to break-neck speeds and generally unsafe driving.

The buses are 16-seat Toyota HiAces. The seats are a bit wide and more padded and comfortable than many of the other mini-bus services, but the vehicles are old and not particularly clean. You book your seats in advance, so be prepared to request by number if you want a specific seat. Directly next to the driver is 001, which they won’t book unless the bus is completely full. Seat 1 is the front row seat next to the window. 2, 3, 4 are a row behind the driver, with 2 being closest to the window. 5 and 6 are a pair of two behind that, and then there’s a foot-long gap to seat 7. The next row is a pair, 8 and 9 and a single seat, number 10. The last row is 11, 12, 13, and 14, and isn’t particularly comfortable if they are all full because they are more narrow than the other seats. Book in advance for choice seat selection, though they tend to run at lower capacity than other companies.

The padded luxury of the Toyota HiAce.

Most of the other companies use newer Ford vans, while Elephant’s vans are a bit older (and showing it). That said, they are more comfortable and the drivers do seem to drive as slowly and safely as one can expect. Our driver took as much care as possible to avoid the giant potholes along the way and didn’t seem to make any wild attempts to pass on the street.

The breaks were at a Tela gas station about an hour outside of Siem Reap, which had surprisingly clean toilets (bring your own paper if you are so inclined) and a selection of beverages and processed foods. The second break was at Arunas Hotel in Kampong Thom. Their toilets aren’t the best, but they aren’t squatters so it’s manageable.

To avoid the “barang tax” skip eating at the Arunas hotel and hit the tasty food stalls outside Kampong Thom Market.

Arunas, like most other bus rest stop restaurants have very distinct dual pricing, with the rates they charge foreigners being nearly double what they charge Khmers. For this reason, I would suggest avoiding eating there, and instead heading to the food stalls directly next door, in front of Kampong Thom market. There you’ll find food sellers with tables and chairs selling various tasty treats including barbequed chicken, num banh chok, noodle soup, and fruit smoothies.

Elephant Express claims to offer a small bottle of water, moist towelette, and WiFi on board (Password: Elephant-XXXX, XXXX being the four-digit license plate number of the van), but we have never seen the WiFi working (they don’t even bother plugging it in) and the moist towelette was nowhere to be seen on this recent visit. If you’re desperate for Internet on the journey, get a 3G plan for your phone.

Buses run from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap at: 7:30 a.m., 8:30 a.m., 2:00 p.m.
Buses run from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh at: 7:30 a.m., 8:30 a.m., 2:00 p.m.

Seats on Elephant Express cost $8 for Khmers and $10 for foreigners. The price includes a tuk tuk pickup at your hotel in Siem Reap or Phnom Penh. Unlike other bus companies, they are unwilling to give expats the local price. And while I know that this is standard practice with transport companies in Cambodia, it still rankles me. Personally, I would be more inclined to take a service that doesn’t have race-based pricing such as Giant Ibis or another mini bus that charges expats the same as locals such as Mey Hong or Seila Angkor.

Elephant Expresses Transportation

#5 Street 102, Phnom Penh
T: 023 983 133; 012 323 172; 097 888 1149

#18, National Road 6, Phum Bateay Chas, Sangkat Slorkram, Siem Reap
T: 012 323 175; 011 549 999; 097 888 1139
facebook.com/elephantexpresses

Year 33: An upcoming film about Cambodia’s burgeoning arts revival

Posted on March 4, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

In many ways, the Cambodian art scene is still in its infancy, but draws on a long and powerful history of traditional Khmer arts. The Khmer Rouge period destroyed much of that history, but today young artists are working to build Cambodia’s arts back to their former glory. Kathryn Lejeune and Janna Watkins are two Los Angeles residents who are working on a documentary that tells the story of Cambodia’s burgeoning arts revival through the lives of three young Khmer artists. Move to Cambodia talks to Kathryn, the director and co-producer, about their upcoming film, Year 33.

What is the significance of the title Year 33?

Year 33 captures an important moment in Cambodia’s history 33 years after the Khmer Rouge fell from power. The title is a way to acknowledge the past while focusing on the present day and the exciting things that are happening now.

How did you and Janna become involved with Cambodia and its art scene?

Originally, we were looking into covering water issues in Cambodia. Phnom Penh has an incredible water system that is the envy of many major cities in the world, while rural areas are decidedly lacking in access. During our extensive research, we came across the story of Cambodia’s tragic history where 90% of artists were killed during the Khmer Rouge era, but are now coming back from that in a spectacular way. We were blown away by the resilience of these artists and their determination to create a life beyond the everyday struggles and routine. Once we really dug into the whole scene, we knew this wasn’t something we could just put down and walk away from… so we changed our whole documentary and never looked back.

Chea Vanny, a Cambodian textile designer and one of the artists featured in Year 33.

Can you tell us about some of the artists in Year 33?

We were truly honored to meet each of the artists profiled in our film and the ways they opened up personally was truly humbling.

Nam Narim is a passionate dancer and choreographer. She is a third generation Apsara dancer with a famous lineage– her mother is Taong Kim-Ann, and grandmother Em Theay. Narim has a growing solo career, but also dances with Amrita Performing Arts, a contemporary dance company. Highly recommend seeing a performance in Phnom Penh.

Viet Mao is a painter, sculptor, and gallery owner who focuses on social and environmental issues. His gallery, Make Maek, is the only gallery in Cambodia actually owned by a Cambodian. He is working hard to bring art to the people for the benefit of the people. His works have been shown in pretty much every gallery in Cambodia.

Chea Vanny is an extremely talented textile designer, specializing in traditional Cambodian ikat. She works at IKTT, where everything is sustainably sourced, using no chemicals or machines. While using ancient methods as a way to preserve the future world, she also experiments with “new traditions” and designs.

Where was the film shot? Were there interesting comparisons to draw between rural/urban arts development?

The film was shot in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, and Battambang. We wanted to give a real sense that this art revival was not confined to one area of Cambodia, but countrywide. I personally love big cities with their energy and hunger for innovation, but there’s no denying the appeal of a laid back town or the charm of a small close-knit community. As far the arts, the cool thing about Cambodia is that, as Viet said, “the arts in Cambodia are just growing up,” so there is a real sense that anything can happen anywhere. Also, in such a small country as Cambodia, there is a constant exchange of ideas and the feeling that everyone is in it together.

What is the goal of the film?

Our goals with Year 33 are to bolster the arts in Cambodia, using self-expression as a way to positively support individuals and communities. We advocate arts education all over the world, and see Cambodia as an incredible example of what the arts can accomplish. Through the film, we aim to increase awareness of this really cool revival, and encourage travelers to think beyond those typical “Apsara & Buffet” venues and venture into some real galleries.

Viet Mao, Cambodia’s only Cambodian art gallery owner.

What impact does economic development have on the progress of traditional arts in Cambodia?

This moment is a critical one for the arts in Cambodia. Either economic development can overwhelm this new revival and galleries turn into t-shirt stands, or the general public in Cambodia and those who visit will recognize the worth of genuine Cambodian arts. We’re obviously rooting for the latter, and artists in Cambodia are working hard to see this become a reality.

How have artists grown in the absence of a generation of mentors who died during the Khmer Rouge?

The absence of a generation of mentors has had a devastating effect on today’s current artists. This was a problem repeated to me several times from different sources and is a main reason why it has taken 33 years for the arts to get to where they are now. However, as tragic as it is, the consequences have had an interesting effect in that the art you see coming out of Cambodia is incredibly unique. To this end, Cambodia has a lot to bring to the international table, where much has become homogenized.

Given recent criticism of Western involvement and support of the Cambodian art scene, how do you encourage organic/native involvement in the arts scene?

I personally completely disagree with Phally Chroy and find it patronizing to expect Cambodia to operate in a vacuum, “safe” from the “evils” of western influence. The artists I spent time with are hungry to participate in and contribute to the international art scene, and to dictate whether or not that should be allowed is ridiculous. Art is all about collaboration and an exchange of ideas. Without it, there is stagnation. With that said, it is important to educate the general public on the history and depth of Cambodia’s rich cultural legacy in order to keep it on equal footing with art from, say, France or the US.

Kathryn Lejeune and Janna Watkins, Year 33’s creators.

What’s next for Year 33? When will the film be released?

Year 33 is currently in post production and we are raising funds through Kickstarter to finish the film. We have partnered with Creative Visions Foundation and CineCause to craft a meaningful film that will reach a wide global audience. Beyond that, we are developing a social action campaign that will directly support the artists by facilitating opportunities for exposure, direct donations of sorely needed high quality art supplies, creating programs for multi-discipline collaboration and education, and more!

If you want to learn more about Year 33, please visit their website or consider supporting their project through their Kickstarter campaign.