Crossing the Poipet/Aranyaprathet border overland

If you’re going from Siem Reap to Bangkok (or vice versa) overland, you may be nervous about the infamous Poipet border crossing. Before I crossed for the first time, I was extremely anxious after hearing so many horror stories about the border. Now that I do the trip regularly I know that if you go prepared you won’t have any problems.

If you’re going from Cambodia to Thailand (here are all the ways to get from Siem Reap to Bangkok) you’ll be crossing from Poipet to Aranyaprathet. Here are some tips for crossing in this direction, and at the end I’ve given specific tips if you’re going the other way, from Aranyaprathet to Poipet.

Poipet-Aranyaprathet border overland

Get the skinny on crossing the Poipet-Aranyaprathet border overland.

It’s going to take all day

It will pretty much take you all day to go Siem Reap to Bangkok overland, but leaving early will shave a few hours off the trip (filed under ‘had to learn the hard way’). Siem Reap to Poipet is about a two-hour trip, and then an hour or four at the border, then another four to six hours from Aranyaprathet to Bangkok. The land border is open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. It gets very busy and lines get very long after about noon, so the earlier you start your journey, the better.

You’re crossing on foot

Whether you take a direct bus, mini-bus or taxi, you’ll still have to walk across the border from Poipet to Aranyaprathet on the Thailand side. Coming from Siem Reap, you’ll get dropped off at a roundabout near the border in Poipet. Walk straight ahead and you’ll see Cambodia immigration on your right side. Get in line there and get stamped out of Cambodia.

If you’re hungry or want to use the toilet, stop in at one of the casinos in the no-man’s land between Poipet and Aranyaprathet. I like Grand Diamond Casino’s Chillax Restaurant because they have free WiFi and a great name.

Poipet Aranyaprathet border

After you leave Cambodia but before you enter Thailand, you’ll be treated to this.

Once you’re refreshed, keep walking straight until you get to Thai immigration and go upstairs. If you’re from most countries, you’ll get a visa on arrival (and if you’re not, you should have one already). We’ve got a full blog post on getting a Thai visa in Cambodia if you need to do this in advance.

Once you are at the border just remember that you need to be stamped out of the country you came from and get a visa for the country you are entering (so two stops).

Once you’re through, go straight if you’re heading to get a mini-bus or taxi or make your first right towards Rong Kleu Market if you’re catching a casino bus. This road is not paved and you’ll think you’re in some sort of post-apocalyptic fantasy novel, but in a moment you’ll see a 7-11 and realize that you’re actually in Thailand. From 7-11, you can turn right to head to the casino buses in the car park area.

7-11 near Rong Kleu market Aranyaprathet border

7-11 near Rong Kleu Market Aranyaprathet border.

Don’t get scammed

Do not change money at the border. If you want Thai baht ahead of time, you can change money at Siem Reap’s Old Market before heading out, or hit the ATM at the 7-11 immediately after crossing the border. Don’t believe anything anyone says about facilitation fees. All transport prices quoted here are current, so negotiate until you get pretty close. Don’t get on any buses to the “bus terminal” it’s just a place where they force you to buy overpriced food and overpriced bus tickets. You can get cheap food and cheap bus tickets at Rong Kleu Market and don’t need to bother with the scammy bus terminal.

Carrying baggage across the border

If you’ve got considerable baggage coming through, you can hire a porter for $2 to $10. They will take your bags through and wait for you to get through immigration. Unlike everyone else in Poipet, the porters will not rip you off. Get your porter’s phone number before you head to immigration if you are nervous, but chances are he won’t speak English anyway. It’s polite to tip your porter.

Relax

The border crossing can be overwhelming, but it doesn’t need to be. Budget a full day to get through and take your time. Accept that no one will speak English, but that’s not going to matter. Buy a Thai SIM card in 7-11 for a couple of bucks if you want. You’ll be in Bangkok soon and the Poipet/Aranyaprathet land border crossing will be a distant memory.

If you’re coming from Thailand to Cambodia

If you’re heading from Thailand to Cambodia, this is the particularly scammy direction of the trip. Bring US dollars with you for your visa; do not change money at the border because you will get ripped off. Do not believe anyone that tells you that you need Cambodian riel, you do not, and they will rip you off. You can’t even pay for a Cambodia visa with Cambodian riel!

the visa office at the Poipet border crossing

This is the building that you get your Cambodian visa in.

After you get stamped out of Thailand, you’ll need to enter Cambodia. If you already have an ordinary/business visa, they will stamp you and you will be on your way. Tourists will need to get a visa in advance or on arrival check out our page about Cambodia visas if you want to know more). A tourist visa costs $30. They will ask you for 1100 or 1200 baht (~$35) or if you insist on paying in dollars, which you should, they will ask for $30 and a 200 baht processing fee. There is no processing fee, it’s just a bribe. Arrive early and refuse to pay and eventually they will stamp you through. They’ll make you wait around for a while, but it’s just a game of chicken. Since you’ve budgeted all day to do this, might as well not pay their lame shake-down and catch up on your Kindle.

The other option is to get a Cambodia e-visa in advance, but to be on the safe side you need to order it online a week in advance, because they often don’t get it back to you in their promised three-day turnaround time. The cost is $40. It saves you hassle but not money. If you’re particularly nervous about the border crossing, this might help make things easier.

Once you walk get your Cambodia visa, you can walk through and catch a mini-bus or taxi from near the roundabout. Be aware that on the Cambodia side the police shake down all of the taxi drivers for at least $10 of each trip. The fare should be around $35, but often is as much as $55. Walk as far as you can stand and don’t deal with middlemen if you want a lower price.

Cambodia visa fees increasing

The Cambodia Ministry of Foreign Affairs recently announced that the price of one-month visas will be going up as of October 1, 2014. The price of the 30-day tourist visa will rise from $20 to $30, and the price of a 30-day “ordinary” visa, also called the business visa, will rise fro $25 to $35.  The price of E-visas (aka tourist visas that are purchased online, as opposed to E-class ordinary/business visas) will rise to $37. Update as of June, 2015, E-visas incur an addition $3 fee, bringing the total cost up to $40.

Visas will continue to be free for those under 12.

In their statement, they also went back to calling the “ordinary” E-class visa a “business visa”, but in light of the fact that the statement was called a “ress release” we are unsure of the significance of the visa name change, if any.

The price of the tourist visa (not including extensions) has remained the same for more than two decades, so we think this price hike is not worth moaning about.

So far, they have not announced an increase in long term visas (3-month, 6-month, and 12-month) although it seems likely that is coming down the pipeline.

There have also been rumors that the 12-month visa may be eliminated and others saying that Cambodia visas will eventually allow free entry into ASEAN countries. There’s been no confirmation that either of these rumors are true, however.

This is on the back of the recent work permit rumors (link has been updated with today’s news). While it’s true that apart from the price hike of the 30-day visa everything is still idle speculation on the part of Cambodia’s expats, it seems likely that with the creation of the Department of Immigration earlier this year, some things may change.

For the full scoop on Cambodia visas, read our page about Cambodia visas.

Review: Sushi Kaihomaru, Aeon Mall

8/3/2015:  Sushi Kaihomaru no long has an all-you-can-eat sushi deal and has switched to an ala carte menu.

It’s no secret that I’m a big sushi fan. And apparently I’m not the only one, because Phnom Penh is awash in new sushi joints. In a desperate bid to set itself apart from the competition, a new sushi restaurant in Aeon Mall is offering all-you-can-eat sushi and all-you-can-drink beer for just $10. Can it be true? Yes, it is. Can it be good? Surprisingly, yes.

 all-you-can-eat sushi and all-you-can-drink beer

80 minutes of all-you-can-eat sushi and all-you-can-drink beer for $10. Don’t bother reading the review, just go.

Sushi Kaihomaru is on the second floor of the new Aeon Mall (more, undoubtedly, about that later). They have a conveyor belt sushi bar, as well as tables that seat up to six. The deal is you get 80 minutes of all-you-can-eat sushi and all-you-can-drink Angkor beer for $10. They will charge you an extra $5 if you leave too much rice on your plate–this is to stop people from eating the sushi sashimi-style and leaving two dozen perfectly formed rice balls on their plate. Even if you choose to skip the rice and pay the extra $5, it’s a ridiculously good deal.

Free beer at Sushi Kaihomaru Phnom Penh

You heard the sign. Free beer.

I’m not sure if they’ve been open long enough to know that when two large foreigners walk through the door, they’re going to take a loss for the night, but they were so friendly that I suspect not. The sushi is good quality, with a surprising number of expensive choices including scallop nigiri, which goes for $4 for two pieces at The Sushi Bar. At Sushi Kaihomaru it’s the same quality, but all you can eat for $10. I can’t pretend to understand the economics behind this.

The sushi chefs at are Japanese, as are a fair number of the staff. They say that all of their fish is flown in from Japan and I have no reason not to believe them, other than the fact that the whole thing does not seem financially viable. There’s another Sushi Kaihomaru near Central Market, although they don’t have an all-you-can-eat deal, so maybe…I have no idea. If you can figure it out, let me know.

All you can eat sushi Sushi Kaihomaru

Sushi Kaihomaru at Aeon Mall. Eat up, dudes.

Most of the sushi that comes around is nigiri, with lots of salmon and tuna. It’s not the best salmon or tuna sushi you’ve ever had in your life, but it’s surprisingly good for the price and pretty ridiculous value for money. If you sit around long enough–and with an 80 minute limit I suspect you’ll try–special offerings show up including raw prawns, salmon roe, and octopus. They’ve also got some strange maki creations, many of which involved sweet corn, that I was unwilling to try but which I saw many Cambodian families appreciatively consuming.

Sushi Kaihomaru Aeon Mall Phnom Penh

Cooked food at Sushi Kaihomaru, also surprisingly good.

There’s also a small hot food bar with cooked food including miso soup, udon, noodles, tempura, fried mackerel and beef. Again, for the price it seems impossible that they’ll be able to stay in business if they have very many hungry Western customers.

Overall, Sushi Kaihomaru offers excellent value for money, even if you’re skipping the beer and drinking free-flow tea and soda. The staff was friendly, the beers came faster that I’d expect (although you’ll have to ask for a refill each time) and the sushi selection was surprisingly diverse. I know I used the word surprisingly a half-dozen times in this post, but that’s because I was actually surprised by the whole operation. I don’t expect this bargain to last, so go soon.

They’re open 10:30 a.m. and the last seating is 8:30 p.m. The close the doors around 9:00 p.m., so if you want your full 80 minutes of sushi madness, show up by 7:30 p.m. or so.

Sushi Kaihomaru

Aeon Mall, 2nd Floor
#132 Sothearos Blvd, Sangkat Tonle Bassac, Phnom Penh
T: 023 982 625

What Cambodia expats need to know about insurance

This week we talk to Anna Mischke about insurance issues that affect Cambodia expats. If you’ve read the Move to Cambodia book, you’ll know that I’m a strong advocate of having good health insurance in Cambodia.  Anna works for one of Cambodia’s leading insurance company and is here to answer all of your questions about travel and health insurance (and why you need it).

Why do expats in Cambodia need health insurance?

“Health insurance is important no matter where you live, not only for expats, and not only in Cambodia! Unforeseen illness and accident that can be detrimental to finances, put a patient in debt, or even lead to death because of lack of coverage are only some of the reasons health insurance is an investment that someone should consider.

In Cambodia, expats may not know the healthcare system well or where to go, or have their usual network of family and friends to rely on. On top of that, there are tropical diseases their bodies may not be used to, mysterious pains and sicknesses, and unfortunately the frequent and extreme cases of traumatic accidents. Health insurance gives peace of mind knowing that in the event of health problems, trauma, or concerns they have the resources to cover them financially, physically, and in many cases emotionally.”

What’s the difference between health insurance and travel insurance?

“There are some similarities between health insurance and travel insurance but the main difference between the two is that health insurance is generally a policy that gives medical coverage to an individual throughout the period of an entire year and covers only accident and illness, not things like luggage or personal liability.

Travel insurance provides medical coverage to an individual for a specified period of time in a particular area or region. Depending on the coverage level of travel insurance, it can include coverage on things like loss deposits and cancellation charges, hijacking, personal liability, loss of personal money, and overseas medical expenses and additional expenses. Travel insurance in many cases is bought in addition to annual health insurance for additional protection during travel for goods and extra precautions.”

Why should an expat choose health insurance over travel insurance?

“It is not necessarily a choice of one or the other when it comes to health insurance and travel insurance. Health insurance is extremely important for coverage throughout the year; you never know when you may get stung by a mosquito and come down with dengue fever for a week or when a car may come careening into you as you drive. With health insurance, treatment both locally and abroad can be taken care of by the insurance company as long as it falls within the inclusions (please read policy wording documents provided by your insurer!).

Travel insurance, as mentioned, is many times bought alongside an annual health insurance policy. In many cases, a traveler will want an extra level of protection not only for their health but also for their belongings as they travel, both near and far. The additional coverage amount for their health is also a safety net if their annual health insurance limit (the amount they have per year to spend on medical treatment through the insurance company) is depleting or on the lower end.

If you are coming to Cambodia for more than a year and you know you’ll be living here locally, it makes most sense to get a local plan. Claims procedures are generally much quicker this way and the company is usually more knowledgeable about the services and availability of treatment in the area. If you are visiting for less than a year (policies are generally 12 months) then it’s most likely you have a policy “back home” which will cover you. You can always purchase travel insurance from your home country but as an expat in Cambodia, a healthcare plan is necessary for day to day (outpatient) and traumatic accident (inpatient) coverage.”

If an expat already has health insurance that covers them abroad, why would they need travel insurance?

“The added security that travel insurance offers specifically for things like luggage, money, problems with flights, and hijacking are not covered under a general health insurance policy. When traveling, it releases the traveler from wondering “what will happen if someone steals all my money?,” “I need to change my ticket, will I lose my deposit?”, or if they suddenly need their appendix removed and their general health insurance limit will not cover those costs at an expensive hospital abroad.”

If someone is moving to Cambodia for less than six months, is health insurance necessary?

“Usually if someone is moving to Cambodia for six months or less, they will have an existing health insurance plan from their country of origin. In this case, it would be recommended to take out travel insurance rather than a general health insurance plan. Usually health insurance policies are taken out annually and signing up for a policy for less than a year will tack on additional fees. Travel insurance, especially if purchased from the destination country, is a safe and proactive move even if the person has an existing policy.”

Read our follow-up post: Why you need travel insurance in Cambodia and what to look for

What you need to know about renting in Phnom Penh

Today we talk to Chris Desaulniers, the co-founder of Elevated Realty*. He’s given us the low-down on some of your burning real estate questions (and if you have more, please feel free to leave them in the comments).

asia tune phnom penh

Looking for a place to live?

What is the difference between different types of serviced apartment and how do they compare to furnished and unfurnished apartments?

“Though many apartments in Phnom Penh call themselves serviced, there is a distinction between an apartment providing services and a fully-serviced apartment. A fully-serviced apartment is comparable to a hotel, providing everything you need to live comfortably. You can expect that it will be completely furnished, decorated and contain all necessary household appliances. This includes linens, a fully outfitted kitchen, and concierge service. In these types of apartments rates are generally all-inclusive; providing cable, internet, water, cleaning, parking, and often electricity as part of the rent. Fully-serviced apartments are typically meant to be alternatives to a hotel when your stay will be slightly longer than a typical hotel stay, but not long enough to sign a lease, though they can also be used for long-term living. However, the price tag attached will be in line with the services being provided.

Recently, many apartments in Phnom Penh apartments have started including some services and amenities as part of a monthly rental fee. It has become standard for mid-range to high-end apartments to be furnished but they will not usually include small kitchen appliances, dishes, utensils, linens, or other household items. Many of these apartments will provide Internet, cable, water, and cleaning in the monthly rental rate. Electricity is very rarely included as a part of the monthly rate.

At the lower end of the market in Phnom Penh are flats or unfurnished apartments, flats being a floor of a shophouse or villa that have been converted into a private apartment. These places usually have sparse furnishings (think rattan) and will often not include any services such as internet, cable and the like.”

Phnom Penh serviced apartment

Is it a hotel? No, it’s a Phnom Penh serviced apartment.

What are common services and facilities included with properties, and how should an export value those amenities?

“The most common services that are often included in many Phnom Penh apartments are Internet, cable and cleaning. Having these services included as part of your monthly rental rate has several advantages.

Firstly the value of the services themselves. If sourced individually, Internet will cost a minimum of $15/month, basic digital cable will cost $10/month (plus a $49 installation fee), and cleaning twice a week will cost on average $50/month. Having your landlord deal with the various service providers and installations will save you time and spare you headaches.

Moreover, if there are service interruptions or issues that arise in the future the owner or property manager will resolve these on your behalf (oftentimes proactively because they are affected by the outages, too). Additionally, having services included means not having to deal with billing or making payments at the various offices. On the whole, included services can save expats time and energy.

In addition to services, many apartment buildings now have facilities such as fitness centers, swimming pools, and sauna/steam rooms. Though these things are luxury amenities, having easy accessibility to these types of facilities can automatically have an impact on your lifestyle and well being. Whereas without it, your other options are limited. The alternative is signing up for a membership at a Phnom Penh gym for between $40 and $60 a month (and up). Alternatively, if the property which you are renting at has these facilities at your fingertips there is immediate value in it’s convenient and at no additional cost.

In total, these services (Internet, cable, cleaning, and fitness membership) can add up to $135 a month or more. This, along with the time and energy saved, should be taken into consideration when deciding between apartments.”

What is the value of a longer-term lease versus a short-term lease?

“Many expats are living in Cambodia only temporarily and are nervous about signing long-term leases whereas most landlords are unwilling to have tenants stay for less than six months.

Signing a six-month or year lease is beneficial because it locks in a rental price in a market that is only going up. Rental prices are currently rising by 10-15% annually, and with the high influx of new buildings offering the aforementioned amenities, you can expect that prices will continue to rise.

Many expats who have been here for a number of years are caught off-guard when their lease term ends and they are unable to find an apartment of the same value for the same price. Signing a long-term lease also gives you more negotiating power, if there are any requested changes at the time of signing a landlord is more likely to be flexible with you if they know you are going to stay for a longer period of time. It is about relationship building, most owners wants to build and maintain a relationship with their tenants. Settling into a place allows you to create a home away from home, make your apartment your own and integrate into the community around you.”

Elevated Realty Phnom Penh

If you lived here, wouldn’t you want a long-term lease?

When signing a long-term lease, what sort of changes can reasonably be negotiated with the landlord?

“Most everything in Cambodia is negotiable, and that includes rental housing. Often the most important item for expats is monthly rental price, and there is almost always some flexibility in it. Other things that are within reason to negotiate with the landlord include the installation of window screens, fans, removal of furniture so the space can alternatively be used for a home office or other purpose. Willingness to negotiate depends on the owner, of course, but generally reasonable requests can be accommodated. If you have an extensive list of changes, though, be prepared to meet in the middle.”

What is the value to use a reputable agency rather than searching on your own?

“There is great value in using a reputable real estate agency. They are experts at what they do and possess the knowledge to understand your housing requirements and the market. They are able to advise and drive your property search in the most efficient manner. When moving to an unfamiliar city or country, it is an asset to have someone to help you navigate the city and the marketplace. Additionally they will negotiate on your behalf, draft and facilitate a fair lease agreement, and ensure all your expectations are met before, during, and after move-in.

Agencies provide service at no charge to the client, a commission is paid to the agency by the property owner, and this fee is generally standardized. Although the commission is paid by the landlord, good agencies are loyal to their customers as well because they depend on word of mouth for their business. A reputable agency will be showing you properties that best match your requirements, and not show favoritism between properties. If you find that you are consistently being shown properties that do not suit your needs, you should look for another agency. Most of the reputable agencies in Phnom Penh are privy to the same properties and will get you the exact same rate. Their objective is to make your search efficient and clear. You should choose an agency that you feel comfortable with and that understands your requirements. The experience should be fun.

The alternative to using an agency in Phnom Penh is to tackle it independently, which may be best for those on a very tight budget. This includes attempting to weed through the various housing options and levels of standard, cross a language barrier and invest the time to embark on this undertaking on your own. Though many hidden gems can be found this way, it may not be advantageous for someone coming into an unfamiliar country and is not accustom to the culture and norms.”

*Elevated Realty is no longer in business.

Why I’ve started using real estate agents in Cambodia

It wasn’t long ago that I wrote a post called ‘Why you shouldn’t look for an apartment in Cambodia before you arrive.’ In it, I explained why it’s best to wait until you’re in-country to begin your house hunt, but I also gave a good deal of space to disparaging the Cambodia real estate industry.

the interior of a Phnom Penh apartment

Looking for an apartment in Cambodia? The times they are a-changing.

It’s true that not too long ago using a real estate agent or letting agent in Cambodia was probably the worst way to look for an apartment. But just like everything else in Cambodia, this is quickly changing, and for my most recent house search, I used a real estate agent.

What’s changed? The market, for one. The expat demographic in Cambodia is changing, and changing quickly. More and more young professionals are moving to the country, and they don’t want to live in an apartment with squat toilets and moldy rattan furniture. An increasingly large pool of landlords are catering to this new market.

In my post last year I complained about how only the savvy landlords knew to list properties online. That’s still true, but there seems to be a new wave of young, wealthy landlords–many of whom have lived abroad–who have a better grasp of what is required to make an apartment in Cambodia worth $1,000. As such, the prices listed are finally starting to make sense. A year or two ago a property listed online would have been the same as one that wasn’t, just twice as expensive.

I spent some time looking at apartments in Phnom Penh recently and while the ones I saw through a new agency, all of your burning real estate questions here) were definitely not the low end of the market, the apartments were outfitted to a higher standard than anything I’d see on my own before (and I’ve been house-hunting in Cambodia many, many times). And perhaps most surprisingly, the prices were commensurate with the quality of the property.

If you’re looking for a Cambodian-style apartment in Phnom Penh (meaning: fluorescent lighting, tiled walls, no counters in the kitchen) and are looking to spend less than $250ish a month, you may still be better off walking around and looking for ‘for rent’ signs in the area you have your eye on, enlisting the help of a tuk tuk driver, or trying to find something through word of mouth.

But if you’re looking for something a little nicer, using a good agent can save you headaches. That doesn’t mean that all agents in Phnom Penh have magically become honest or that all of the prices you see are going to be reasonable and fair, but the odds of finding a mid-range or high-end home through an agent is higher than the chances you’ll find one on your own.

In Siem Reap, even the least expensive apartments and houses seem to be found most easily through an agent, although a large number of the agents in town are, to put it kindly, a waste of time. After trying several others, we ended up finding a place with Rich Cam Globe Realtor and were very happy with their services.

So how do you know if you can trust your agent? A good way to start is by telling them your specifications. If you say you want to spend a certain amount or live in a certain location and they only show you things that are outside your budget or in a completely different neighborhood, that’s a bad sign. A good agent will care about what you are looking for and will help you try and find just that, or explain why what you want might not be feasible. Either way, they should be able to have a conversation with you about it. For our most recent house-hunt, we went with several agents to many properties, and it became clear very quickly which agents were actually listening to what we wanted.

And if all else fails, feel free to email me some photos or property listings–I’d be happy to give you my opinion!

Review: Hanami Buffet, Phnom Penh

We’ve gotten reports that Hanami is now closed. Stay tuned to see what pops up in that location next!

If you’re looking to eat sushi and pizza until you’re uncomfortably full without breaking the bank, look no further than Hanami Buffet in BKK1. It’s not the best Japanese food you’ll get in town, but at only $6.50 for an all-you-can-eat lunch for four hours of non-stop pigging out, it’s the most Japanese food you’ll get (for this price, anyway).

sushi at Hanami Buffet Phnom Penh

Sushi, pizza and much more (than you can eat) at Hanami Buffet in BKK1.

There’s been lots of expat chatter about Hanami Buffet. Not surprising, because the array of food is pretty great. They have a pizza and pasta bar, where you can order mysterious pizzas such as the “curry taste” pizza, which was doused in sweet Japanese curry and corn. It was sort of disgusting but strangely addictive. The pastas are also somewhat disappointing but oddly compelling. We tried a salmon pasta that was bland except for the liberal chunks of salmon, an ingredient you don’t expect to see on a cheap buffet menu in Cambodia. It may have been flavorless, but didn’t stop us from finishing it, though.

Hanami also have a sushi carousel that had surprisingly decent sushi options. Much of it was the rice and cooked fish variety, but there were also pieces of salmon and one could easily get their money’s worth just sitting by the sushi track and hoovering piece after piece.

Noodle soup bar at Hanami Buffet

Hanami’s noodle soup bar. Get slurping.

There’s also a noodle soup bar with loads of fresh vegetables and soup options, a congee station and several other areas featuring different types of dishes. Most of the cuisine is Japanese, with a focus on Chinese and Japanese homestyle and izakaya dishes with lots of deep-fried and snacky goodies, including takoyaki (Japanese octopus ball), tempura, and deep-fried chicken feet that make the $1.50 free-flow Angkor beer option seem like a good choice.

Finish up with a selection of desserts, including cake and chocolate mousse. If you don’t feel sick by the time you’ve finished, you’re doing it wrong.

Hanami Buffet Phnom Penh

Hanami brings together the Japanese and Khmer cultures in a glorious celebration of gluttony.

The regular prices are $9 for lunch and $21 for dinner, but they are currently having a special with lunch for $6.50 and dinner for $16. Meals includes free-flow soda and tea, and for an extra $1.50, you can add free-flow Angkor beer.

Hanami Buffet certainly does not have the best Japanese food in town, but in terms of value for money, it can’t be beat. Get there relatively early for the best selection and be prepared to wash your hands before entering (don’t worry, they have purpose-built sinks for just this reason).

Hanami Buffet

Open daily, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Corner of Mao Tse Tung Blvd and Street 63, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 070 389 100
hanamirestaurant.eoi.com

How to find housing in Battambang

So you’ve decided to move to Battambang. Welcome! Be warned it may require patience to find a home that will suit your needs, as the best places tend to be passed from expat to expat like family heirlooms. That said, there are some great houses and apartments to be had in Battambang.

Battambang house rental

Wondering how to make the move to Battambang? Here’s how to find a place to live.

In terms of location, your main two considerations are how close to the center of town you want to be, and which side of the river you want to be on. The closer to Psar Nath, the more central the location, and accordingly more expensive.

Battambang is a small city, so nothing is far, but most restaurants and markets are located on the west side of the Sangker River, and while nowhere is immune from flooding in the rainy season, the flooding can be a bit worse on the east side.

Studio apartments without a kitchen can be found for as little as $50 a month, while a one-bedroom apartment with a kitchen in the center of town goes for between $100-$150 per month.

Entire houses can be rented for between $100-$300, depending on location and amenities.

Battambang wooden house

Start dreaming about your future. This Khmer wooden house would go for about $250 a month in Battambang.

For example, a one-bedroom, one-bathroom wooden house with Khmer-style kitchen, air conditioning and hot water (pictured) goes for around $250, while a Khmer-style shophouse with one bedroom, two bathrooms, and bucket toilets, no air conditioning, hot water or kitchen, is around $120 per month.

Not every home has air conditioning or hot water, so if those amenities are important to you, be sure to ask if the home has them. Very few homes have washing machines and even fewer have ovens, so if you want these appliances, you may need to buy them yourself.

There are three main ways people find housing in Battambang.

Battambang Connect

Battambang Connect is a Google Group that serves as a forum to connect those in and around Battambang. Register as a member and you can post that you are looking for housing and see any ‘for rent’ postings from other members.

Realtor

Another option is Battambangimmo, which serves as a realtor, but fair warning that they do not often have many listings, largely because most homes are found through….

Word of mouth

Many apartments get snatched before they have the chance to be posted on Battambang Connect or listed with a realtor. The majority of expats find housing through others, so make friends with some expats when you arrive.

Go to popular expat hangouts like Kinyei or Jaan Bai (both popular with the English crowd), Choco l’Art (popular with the French crowd) or Here Be Dragons (popular with whomever’s around) and advertise the fact that you’re looking for a place to live. Someone will know someone who is leaving, and be able to give you tips on what apartments may be available.

Don’t be too shy to tell your colleagues that you’re looking. Khmer colleagues in particular may know of cheap places.

If you’re really stuck, or in Battambang for a short period of time and want to find something immediately, Chhaya Hotel has serviced apartments that include kitchenettes and balconies for $300 a month and Coconut House have rooms with kitchenettes for between $150 and $270 a month.

Good luck!

Kinyei

Street 1.5, Battambang
T: 017 860 003
kinyei.org

Jaan Bai

Street 2, Battambang
T: 086 505 954
cambodianchildrenstrust.org/jaan-bai

Choco l’Art Café

Street 117, Battambang [map]
T: 010 661 617

Here Be Dragons

Street 159D, Battambang
T: 089 264 895
herebedragonsbattambang.com

Chhaya Hotel

118 Street 3, Battambang
T: 053 952 170
chhayahotel.com

Coconut House

Street 300, Battambang
T: 053 665 5447; 012 955 447