How to decide if you should give birth in Cambodia

Posted on October 14, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

A few years ago, very few expats would have considered having a baby in Cambodia. They were willing to raise a child here, but they weren’t going to give birth in Cambodia unless they had no other choice. These days, though, there are good Thai hospitals in Cambodia and there’s even a promised neonatal intensive care unit coming in the new Royal Phnom Penh Hospital (Royal Rattanak has moved locations and changed their name). When you are making the decision about where to give birth there are many factors to consider, but more and more expats are choosing to give birth in Cambodia.

Giving birth in Cambodia

Mom and baby after an uneventful and happy birth in Siem Reap.

We talked to four expat moms about how they decided to have a baby in-country or to leave, and what factors you should consider when making this decision.

Rachel: “I decided to have my second child in Cambodia as it was my home and we had the existing set up family support for our then young daughter. I also did not wish to spend a month or so in Bangkok. I had gone home to the UK for the birth of my first child and as everything went well with a natural birth, I decided that I was comfortable having the second baby here with the support of an experienced British midwife in a local government clinic.

Pain relief was not widely available however so there was no gas and air for example, which helped with the delivery of my first child. I was happy with my experience, we were at the clinic for only three hours before returning home with our new baby, and would deliver a future child in Cambodia if there were not signs of complications.”

Barb: “I had a baby in Phnom Penh earlier this year. I chose Royal Rattanak Hospital after being referred by medical professionals that I trusted. My pregnancy was considered higher risk going in; it was my first baby and I am in my late thirties. I was prepared to travel to Bangkok via taxi if the monitoring showed any risk to the baby or myself, but it ended up not being necessary. I also stayed in contact with my family doctor in Australia when I wanted a second opinion.

I was kept on fetal monitors throughout the labor, which measure the baby’s heart rate and contractions. This meant that I couldn’t get up and walk around between contractions or anything like you read about in the natural childbirth books. No showers or birthing pools or anything like that. It was just old school lie on a bed and have a baby, a lot like how it looks in the movies, but far less pleasant.

I had intended to have a natural childbirth, but ended up requesting a C-section after about eight hours of labor. The extra staff had already been placed on standby in case this happened and they arrived very quickly. The entire procedure was explained before it happened or while it was happening, and I wasn’t afraid.

Expat baby born in Phnom Penh

This happy baby was born in Phnom Penh.

I know having a baby in Phnom Penh isn’t for everyone. I’ve lived in Cambodia for nearly ten years and would have felt very isolated in Bangkok. The other option was to go to Australia, but you have to fly so early and wait for paperwork, so it ends up being around three months, and my work and business commitments would have made that difficult. I have heard the criticisms of my decision to have my child here, but I can assure everybody that my decision was considered and not entered into lightly.”

Narisa: “I can’t speak to options in Phnom Penh, but in general I would go to Bangkok rather than stay in Siem Reap for any in-patient medical procedure. In general the level of medical care and comfort is much, much higher–there is a choice of hospitals and I looked at Bumrungrad, BNH and Samitivej–all very good hospitals. Also in Bangkok there is a large community of doulas and I wanted to have a doula with me during my birth.

Samitivej in particular is known for being very good for natural birth. They have two very large, comfortable and attractive (for a hospital) birthing rooms, with a tub, mattress, chair, and various other things (railing to lean on, giant balance ball, etc). There is room to walk around and plenty of room for husband and doula to be present. As it turned out, I ended up not having natural birth but a C-section instead. The nurses in the maternity ward are extremely experienced and helpful, and the maternity ward itself is separate and private from the rest of the hospital, with a security guard at the entrance.”

Kirsty: “There are obviously a million what-ifs, and pregnant woman face those every day anyway. For me, the risk of alcohol wasn’t worth it so I abstained. But risk of soft cheeses be damned, and I ate those. Both can have terrible outcomes, but I did what I was comfortable with. Basically, deciding whether or not to deliver your child in a developing country comes down to gut feeling. I was comfortable staying my entire first pregnancy, the second I left earlier on medical advice which I strongly agreed with.

A pregnant woman needs to consider how much support she’ll have, how comfortable she is with the hospital, how much pre-natal testing she’s comfortable with and if she wants to travel for some or forgo it. But ultimately she has to ask herself a question that haunted me throughout my pregnancies – what if? If your child is born too early but would have survived if you’d gone home, if you get substandard care and your child is deprived of oxygen during delivery, if their neck gets broken, if you’ve given an archaic solution to something routine, if you can’t establish breastfeeding, if you get PPD, if you’re given a c-section that leaves a Frankenscar, if you don’t heal well or have a serious injury during delivery, if baby has a defect, if you’re tricked into believing a local old wife’s tale and it harms your baby or yourself…if something happens that you come to realize was entirely preventable or could have been managed more simply if you were in a developed country. What if?

For me, in the end, I left the first time because I wanted to be around my sister and really, really didn’t want a C-section. It was absolutely the right choice for me and I don’t regret it for a minute. I also don’t regret being pregnant in a developing country and having to leave in a hurry second time around (and I’m really glad I left as all predictions came true). Instincts are really important.

Whatever people choose to do, even just to be pregnant in a developing country, self-education is key. The parents need to know what is done in the West and how to manage the differences as best you can. To know where to look for support and advice, because having the baby is only the beginning.”

Veterinary care in Cambodia

Posted on October 7, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

If you’ve gone through the trouble of importing a pet into Cambodia or adopted one here, you may be wondering where to go for veterinary services for your pet. Most expats agree that it’s worth splashing out to get veterinary care in Cambodia from an expat veterinarian, as the local vets are mostly untrained and are just as likely to make the problem worse as they are to make it better.

Wondering where to get care for your pet? We've got our paws on the pulse.

Wondering where to get care for your pet? We’ve got our paws on the pulse of vet care in the Kingdom.

Phnom Penh

PPAWS (Phnom Penh Animal Welfare Society) has a clinic that offers spaying, neutering, and vaccinations for dogs and cats. Proceeds are used to support PPAWS programs to spay and neuter stray animals and help find homes for pagoda pets. Vaccinations cost between $10 and $25, cat spaying costs $65 and dog spaying costs around $95, depending on the size of the animal. Discounts are sometimes possible based on need. The clinic is open Tuesdays through Friday and Sundays, but call or email in advance because it can be difficult to find.

PPAWS (Phnom Penh Animal Welfare Society)

Beoung Tumpun, Phnom Penh
T: 017 293 654 (English); 078 611 289 (Khmer)
ppaws.com

Agrovet is considered the best veterinary clinic among all Cambodia vets. Run by a French veterinarian, the hospital is run to European standards and have prices to match. And while expats do gripe about the cost (consultations start at $25), most will admit that the place is the best option for your pets. They treat all types, but specialize in the canine and feline variety. There are several local vets on staff, but you’re best off with the French vet. If you’re outside of Phnom Penh and haven’t had luck with the vets in your town, it’s worth a visit to the capital and an appointment at Agrovet.

Agrovet

33B Street 360 (between Monivong Blvd and Street 63), BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 023 216 323
agrovet-cambodia.com

Siem Reap

Sadly, American veterinarian Dr. Don Gillespie has left town, but Siem Reap is still lucky to have veterinary nurse Katie Russell, who owns a small veterinary clinic, Siem Reap Veterinary Services. Ms. Russell, an Australian-certified veterinary nurse has more than ten years experience in Australia and Southeast Asia. The clinic primarily treats cats and dogs, and she offers consultations, vaccinations, parasite treatment and prevention, grooming and general health care advice. The clinic gets regular visits from vets every few months for neutering and spaying, and is looking for a Western vet to bring on full time. Consultations are available by appointment weekdays from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Siem Reap Veterinary Services

Wat Damnak Village, Siem Reap
T: 071 998 4413
facebook.com/Siem-Reap-Veterinary-Services

Sihanoukville

Expats speak highly of Dr. Roman Kuleshov, a young Russian veterinarian who runs the Happy Pets Veterinary Clinic in Sihanoukville. He does consultations by appointment only between 9:00 a.m. and 7:00 p.m. daily, but takes emergency calls at any time. He also makes house calls!

Dr. Kuleshov has a complete price list on his Facebook page (and we do mean complete). Consultations are $10 or $15 and he administers various vaccinations that cost between $10 and $30. For $5 you can get an international health certificate, aka a pet passport. Happy Vets treats dogs, cats, birds, and wild animals.

Happy Pets Veterinary Clinic

Emario Beach Resort, Victory Hill, Sihanoukville [map]
T: 098 215 104
facebook.com/Veterinary-Clinic-Happy-Pets

Kampot

PPAWS (Phnom Penh Animal Welfare Society) has recently started a program to bring a vet to Kampot on a regular basis, to offer vaccinations and spaying and neutering services. Contact PPAWS for more details, or watch the Kampot & Kep Noticeboard for Expats & Locals Facebook group for upcoming dates. The next date is October 11th, contact Rainer at 096 77 64 128 to make an appointment.

Got a suggestion for where to get vet care in Cambodia or want to update one of our listings? Submit it here.

Building a fence in Siem Reap

Posted on September 18, 2014 by Steven Halcrow

So you’ve completed your move to a nice big Cambodian style house, and you got it for a knockdown price, but there is just one problem: it needs a bit of work done. You were braced for this before you moved in, even excited by the prospect but now you are actually there, you realize that your DIY skills never really progressed past building Lego houses as a child.

The list of jobs is not overly intimidating as none of them involve any major plumbing or wiring expertise, but they do require some planning and the acquisition of appropriate materials. You may be tempted to just find a local that can do the work for you but there is no denying the sense of pride you will feel when your carefully constructed DIY masterplan becomes a reality.

Building a fence in Siem Reap

It’s both easier and harder than you might think.

After moving to a more rural existence in Siem Reap, we realized we’d need to put up a fence in order to gain slightly more privacy from the neighbors and stop the constant stream of chickens and feral dogs from pooping all over our garden. Barbed wire makes an effective barricade and a 30-kilo roll will set you back around $40. Don’t be put off if you are asked to buy the whole lot, even if you only need 20 kilos, as unfurling barbed wire is no walk in the park. Most places will be happy to refund you for what you don’t use, but be sure to clarify this beforehand. We bought ours from the well-stocked and friendly hardware store beside the bridge, a quarter mile down the road after making the right turn at Le Meridian on the road to Angkor Wat. The store also has a plentiful supply of PVC pipe, plumbing supplies, various wires, tools and chain link fence.

If barbed wire reminds you too much of prison and doesn’t afford you the privacy you require then you can always use wood, or even rolls of threaded bamboo to make your fence. On High School Road there are numerous wood/lumber yards but not all of them sell rolls of bamboo fence and not all of them speak enough English as to even entertain the notion of an actual transaction. For this reason it helps if you take someone who can speak Khmer, preferably a Khmer. A roll of threaded bamboo set us back $8 for a 1.5 metre high and 4.5 metre long roll and was considerably less work than constructing the fence from planks of wood.

For nails, wire, screws, etc. you can visit the aforementioned store or, alternatively you can head to Psar Chas. The hardware store opposite Warehouse is smaller and less widely stocked but still sells all kind of hardware treats to assist you. Nails and screws are charged by the kilo and finishing stains for woods and some small power tools can also be bought from these guys as well as hammers, screwdrivers, paint brushes, locks, hinges etc., etc., etc.

So, having acquired my fence-building kit (50 meters of bamboo fence, a healthy roll of wire, a kilo of 2 inch long nails, a hammer and a set of pliers) I was ready to go. The barbed wire and wood staked fence was already in place so unrolling and nailing the fence up was time consuming but straight-forward. I then re-enforced it by attaching the bamboo fence to the barbed wire using the regular wire and then tightened it with the pliers. It took two days and cost just over $100. A bit more expensive than a Lego set but just as fun to make.

We may not win any awards for innovation or style, but the shabby yet charming appearance of our new fence blends in nicely with the Cambodian neighborhood and we are also very happy that our lovely garden is no longer moonlighting as a public toilet for dogs.

What you need to know about buying property in Cambodia

Posted on September 15, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

If you’ve wondered what the deal is with buying property in Cambodia, you aren’t alone. Today we talk to Leah Valencia, one of the co-founders of Elevated Realty*. Leah filled us in on what’s required for a foreigner to buy property in Cambodia and explains the difference between a hard and soft title.

Small house on Koh Rong

Considering buying a house in Cambodia? Here’s what you need to know.

Can a foreigner own property in Cambodia?

“Yes, foreigners can own property in Cambodia but there are restrictions. Foreigners can only own properties on the first floor or higher (not the ground floor), up to 70% of any one building, however this only applies to buildings with a strata title. A strata title is a type of hard title that allows an owner to divide a building into multiple individually saleable properties, this is also known as the “condominium law”, it is generally only granted to new condo buildings that are being built for this specific purpose.

Alternatively, foreigners can own 49% of private property, with or without a structure, if they are partnered in a Cambodian legal entity. A Cambodian legal entity is defined as any legal entity that has 51% or more of its shares held by Cambodian citizens. So as long as you own the property in conjunction with a Cambodian national, you can own any type of property you desire.

Currently, this law is not being regularly enforced, this is why you will hear stories of people who hold titles to properties around the city. There is a level of risk assumed with acquiring property in this way as it is subject to enforcement at anytime.”

What are the requirements for a foreigner to own property in Cambodia?

“To purchase property in Cambodia all you need is a current passport and visa. However, I would strongly recommend that you have someone advise you through the process, such as a real estate agent or a lawyer. It is important to conduct a title search before purchasing property. The title search will confirm who holds the title to the property and reveal registered mortgages or other encumbrances. Bear in mind that there can be other impediments to transferring which are not visible through a title search, e.g., a claim by a senior politician to the property. The buyer will not be given the actual title to conduct the search, because this is the sellers’ only evidence of ownership. The buyer will instead get a copy of the title, and it is important to confirm that it is a recent copy.”

Phnom Penh apartments

If it’s not the ground floor, you’re good to go.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of long-term leases over buying?

“Long-term leases, lasting between 15 and 50 years, are an alternative way for foreigners to invest in Cambodian property. Prior to December 2011, leases could be granted for up to 99 years in accordance with the Land Law (2001). However with the entry into force of the new Civil Code, the maximum term of a lease has been reduced to 50 years. Leases granted prior to December 2011 will still be respected, up to a maximum of 99 years.

A clause can be inserted into the lease requiring the owner to get the lessee’s permission to sell, and/or entitling the lessee to convert to full ownership with the lessor’s cooperation. In addition, a ‘block sale notice’ can be registered with the Land Office, instructing the office not to sell the property without the lessee’s permission. Also it is often possible to put a renewable clause in the agreement.

Long term leases can now be registered at the national Cadastral Office and noted on the property title deed. In addition, a separate certificate may be issued to the title deed noting the lessee’s interests in the property. This Certificate of Perpetual Lease of Private Unit can be used as security to obtain financing. Additionally long term leases are assignable, sellable and bequeathable. This makes them similar to a freehold property but only for a limited time, which has both an advantage and disadvantage.”

What is the process if a foreigner wants to buy a ground-floor apartment or land in Cambodia?

“During the Democratic Kampuchea regime (1975-79), the Khmer Rouge abolished ownership of property and destroyed all existing official property records in Cambodia. At that time, all property belonged to the State and there were no private owners. After the Khmer Rouge fell, and for the next ten years, the right to own property was still not recognized and all property was owned by the government. In 1989 a Land Law was issued which established a framework for the recognition of property and property rights throughout Cambodia. In 2001 the Land Law was updated in an attempt to further clarify property ownership.

Under the Land Law property can be registered in two ways, systematic registration and sporadic registration. In the systematic system, the government targets plots of land to measure, register and title, this will continue until the whole country is complete. In the sporadic system, the owner initiates the title registration through the central Cadastral Office. There are currently two types of titles legally recognized in Cambodia, soft titles and hard titles.

A newly built house in Cambodia

Or, you can buy land (or 49% of it) and build your own.

The majority of property in Cambodia is legally held under a soft title. Property held under a soft title is registered at the local sangkat (council) or district level but not at the national level. soft title documentation can take a variety of forms, such as a letter of transfer from the previous possessor stamped by the sangkat or district office, a possession status certificate from the local sangkat or district office, or a building application. Buyers wanting to purchase a soft title property should conduct their own due diligence, at the sangkat or district office to confirm whom holds the soft title to the property. Similar enquiries should be made with the property’s neighbours. The property boundaries should also be carefully checked, as borders are often not properly demarcated and overlaps can exist. Often a soft title is prefered due to the taxes, fees and the processes involved in obtaining a hard title. However, the option to convert from soft title into a hard title is a right, either when systematic registration occurs or via sporadic registration.

A hard title is an ownership certificate which is issued by the Cadastral Office and recognized at the national ministerial level as well as at the sangkat and district level. A hard title is the most secure form of ownership, its registration should be the only evidence required of an indefeasible title.

There are pros and cons to both hard and soft titles. The most recent numbers accounting for title types in Phnom Penh found that currently only 10% of properties have hard titles, whilst 82% have soft titles, and 8% have no title at all. That being said, it is obviously much easier to find properties with a soft title, processing is faster, goverment fees are excluded, and it can later be converted to a hard title. hard titles on the other hand, though they include fees and take longer, offer you indisputable ownership, the history of the property, and leverage for bank financing.”

If a property only has a soft title available, is it still worth considering?

“A soft title is definitely still worth considering, depending on what you intend to do with the property. Current trends in Cambodia include “flipping” property – buying, renovating, and reselling at a higher value. Also very popular, is buying and reselling to locals for development. In both of these scenarios the intention is not to hold the property, but rather resell it in a relatively short time period. In this case, regardless of the title type, with conditions as they currently are you should have no problems selling your property in the current market. However, If you plan to live on the property or invest a great deal of money in hopes of value appreciation, then a hard title would be the better choice, as it is more secure and will stand the test of time through varying market conditions. soft titles are currently the norm, and are being bought and sold without any problems. However, they do not hold the same security that a hard title does. ”

*Elevated Realty is no longer in business.

Street 136 dumpling crawl

Posted on September 10, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

There are a lot of things that Street 136 in Phnom Penh are known for, but dumplings aren’t necessarily the first that most people would think of. The block between Monivong and Central Market is a veritable hotbed of home-made dumplings, though, with several small, drab Chinese restaurants in a row, each with its own grumpy Chinese lady (or sometimes two) sitting in a corner, folding dumpling after dumpling.

Herk Fung Chinese Restaurant Phnom Penh

Round one. Dumplings and Chinese “pizza” at Herk Fung.

Recently, when at a loss for where to go for a weekend brunch, a group of us decided to go on a dumpling crawl of Street 136. Below are our notes from the crawl. They get more and more unintelligible with each successive restaurant, possibly due to the serious carb overload that we experienced, or to the fact that there was also a fair amount of Tsingtao required to wash all of the dumplings. Whatever our notes might indicate, a dumpling crawl on Street 136 is a fantastic way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

Herk Fung

Herk Fung was magnificent. We ordered $2 dumplings, $2 large Angkors, and $1 Chinese “pizza.” The communication was difficult, but the dumplings were spectacular. The Chinese pizza–this is for want of a better name, we have no idea what it was called–was stuffed with something vegetal and seaweed and was wonderful. A naked baby watched us eat.

Herk Fung Chinese Restaurant Phnom Penh

Herk Fung. Not particularly impressive from the outside, but the dumplings are fantastic.

“That’s probably the freshest dumpling I’ve ever eaten.”
“Would eat again.”
“That sets the bar really high.”

Pei Jing

The most exciting thing about Pei Jing was the $2.50 bottles of Tsingtao beer, which we had a few of, along with plates of dumplings for $2 that were served with chopped chili and garlic. The menu was in French and English, so it would have been completely possible to order things other than dumplings. We tried both steamed and fried dumplings and while they were pretty good, they weren’t great, and all agreed that the Tsingtao was the best thing about the restaurant.

Pei Jing Chinese Restaurant Phnom Penh

blah

“6/10”
“6/10”
“5.5/10”
“Middle of the road.”
“Come for the Carlsberg of China; the dumplings are really average.”

Shandong Restaurant

Shandong was the nicest looking of the restaurants we visited, with a large table and a smooth lazy Susan. This might not seem like something special, but it makes the sharing of dumplings with large groups better, and they even have tables that can seat 10. They had a photo menu in color, so also the best menu of the day.

Shangdong Restaurant Phnom Penh

So hard not to eat, so hard not to hate yourself while doing it.

We tried steamed and $2 fried dumplings and $2 pizza-pancake-thing. The fried dumplings were excellent, crisp on the outside, steamed pork and chives on the inside. The pizza was good, although very thin almost like a crispy chive crepe. It was hard to not eat more, even while thinking it was sort of disgusting. The steamed dumplings were weak, though. That said, they sold Tsingtao for $2 for a large bottle and kept bringing us new ones, so we really had nothing to complain about.

“The toilets are immaculate!”

Sichuan Restaurant

We ordered $2 fried dumplings, $1.50 pizza and a map dofu. The pizza was more like a deep-fried pancake. It was awful and so, so, so delicious, the perfect beer food. The mapo dofu was revolting and gloopy and the dumplings were watery inside. On the plus side, the owner was nice, and they served kimchi as a condiment.

Sichuan Restaurant Phnom Penh

The largest dumplings of the crawl.

“Smallest bowls, biggest dumplings.”
“I’m glad we came this way and didn’t walk backwards.”
“Everything is heavier and oilier than the rest which is good, because we’re drunk.”
“This place disappoints me the most because it promises so much but delivers so little.”

Yue Xiang Cai Guan

We started out at lunch time, and by the time we got to Yue Xiang Cai Guan there many quizzical looking Chinese couples eating dinner and wondering what we were up to. We had already eaten dumplings at four restaurants and brought a small dog into all four without complaint. We figured this, our fifth, would be the last. None of us were hungry at this point, and we mistook a bottle of $2 Chinese SNOW beer for MONS beer (read it upside-down).

Yue Xiang Cia Guan Phnom Penh

Oh no!

Yue Xiang Cai Guan had excellent steamed dumplings ($2) but the pancakes/pizza that we ordered–just for the sake of comparison, not out of any actual hunger–turned out to be brought in from Sichuan Restaurant where we had just eaten. This place had a nice interior and was probably really good, but we were all too full to be able to appreciate it.

“These are my favorite steamed dumplings.”
“I feel sick.”

Herk Fung

Street 136, Phnom Penh
T: 012 185 5589

Pei Jing Restaurant

93 Street 136, Phnom Penh
T: 012 723 981

Shandong Restaurant

103 Street 136, Phnom Penh

Sichuan Restaurant

111 Street 136, Phnom Penh

Yue Xiang Cai Guan

97 Street 136, Phnom Penh
T: 097 894 8896; 097 367 5998

Crossing the Poipet/Aranyaprathet border overland

Posted on September 5, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

If you’re going from Siem Reap to Bangkok (or vice versa) overland, you may be nervous about the infamous Poipet border crossing. Before I crossed for the first time, I was extremely anxious after hearing so many horror stories about the border. Now that I do the trip regularly I know that if you go prepared you won’t have any problems.

If you’re going from Cambodia to Thailand (here are all the ways to get from Siem Reap to Bangkok) you’ll be crossing from Poipet to Aranyaprathet. Here are some tips for crossing in this direction, and at the end I’ve given specific tips if you’re going the other way, from Aranyaprathet to Poipet.

Poipet-Aranyaprathet border overland

Get the skinny on crossing the Poipet-Aranyaprathet border overland.

It’s going to take all day

It will pretty much take you all day to go Siem Reap to Bangkok overland, but leaving early will shave a few hours off the trip (filed under ‘had to learn the hard way’). Siem Reap to Poipet is about a two-hour trip, and then an hour or four at the border, then another four to six hours from Aranyaprathet to Bangkok. The land border is open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. It gets very busy and lines get very long after about noon, so the earlier you start your journey, the better.

You’re crossing on foot

Whether you take a direct bus, mini-bus or taxi, you’ll still have to walk across the border from Poipet to Aranyaprathet on the Thailand side. Coming from Siem Reap, you’ll get dropped off at a roundabout near the border in Poipet. Walk straight ahead and you’ll see Cambodia immigration on your right side. Get in line there and get stamped out of Cambodia.

If you’re hungry or want to use the toilet, stop in at one of the casinos in the no-man’s land between Poipet and Aranyaprathet. I like Grand Diamond Casino’s Chillax Restaurant because they have free WiFi and a great name.

Poipet Aranyaprathet border

After you leave Cambodia but before you enter Thailand, you’ll be treated to this.

Once you’re refreshed, keep walking straight until you get to Thai immigration and go upstairs. If you’re from most countries, you’ll get a visa on arrival (and if you’re not, you should have one already). We’ve got a full blog post on getting a Thai visa in Cambodia if you need to do this in advance.

Once you are at the border just remember that you need to be stamped out of the country you came from and get a visa for the country you are entering (so two stops).

Once you’re through, go straight if you’re heading to get a mini-bus or taxi or make your first right towards Rong Kleu Market if you’re catching a casino bus. This road is not paved and you’ll think you’re in some sort of post-apocalyptic fantasy novel, but in a moment you’ll see a 7-11 and realize that you’re actually in Thailand. From 7-11, you can turn right to head to the casino buses in the car park area.

7-11 near Rong Kleu market Aranyaprathet border

7-11 near Rong Kleu Market Aranyaprathet border.

Don’t get scammed

Do not change money at the border. If you want Thai baht ahead of time, you can change money at Siem Reap’s Old Market before heading out, or hit the ATM at the 7-11 immediately after crossing the border. Don’t believe anything anyone says about facilitation fees. All transport prices quoted here are current, so negotiate until you get pretty close. Don’t get on any buses to the “bus terminal” it’s just a place where they force you to buy overpriced food and overpriced bus tickets. You can get cheap food and cheap bus tickets at Rong Kleu Market and don’t need to bother with the scammy bus terminal.

Carrying baggage across the border

If you’ve got considerable baggage coming through, you can hire a porter for $2 to $10. They will take your bags through and wait for you to get through immigration. Unlike everyone else in Poipet, the porters will not rip you off. Get your porter’s phone number before you head to immigration if you are nervous, but chances are he won’t speak English anyway. It’s polite to tip your porter.

Relax

The border crossing can be overwhelming, but it doesn’t need to be. Budget a full day to get through and take your time. Accept that no one will speak English, but that’s not going to matter. Buy a Thai SIM card in 7-11 for a couple of bucks if you want. You’ll be in Bangkok soon and the Poipet/Aranyaprathet land border crossing will be a distant memory.

If you’re coming from Thailand to Cambodia

If you’re heading from Thailand to Cambodia, this is the particularly scammy direction of the trip. Bring US dollars with you for your visa; do not change money at the border because you will get ripped off. Do not believe anyone that tells you that you need Cambodian riel, you do not, and they will rip you off. You can’t even pay for a Cambodia visa with Cambodian riel!

the visa office at the Poipet border crossing

This is the building that you get your Cambodian visa in.

After you get stamped out of Thailand, you’ll need to enter Cambodia. If you already have an ordinary/business visa, they will stamp you and you will be on your way. Tourists will need to get a visa in advance or on arrival check out our page about Cambodia visas if you want to know more). A tourist visa costs $30. They will ask you for 1100 or 1200 baht (~$35) or if you insist on paying in dollars, which you should, they will ask for $30 and a 200 baht processing fee. There is no processing fee, it’s just a bribe. Arrive early and refuse to pay and eventually they will stamp you through. They’ll make you wait around for a while, but it’s just a game of chicken. Since you’ve budgeted all day to do this, might as well not pay their lame shake-down and catch up on your Kindle.

The other option is to get a Cambodia e-visa in advance, but to be on the safe side you need to order it online a week in advance, because they often don’t get it back to you in their promised three-day turnaround time. The cost is $40. It saves you hassle but not money. If you’re particularly nervous about the border crossing, this might help make things easier.

Once you walk get your Cambodia visa, you can walk through and catch a mini-bus or taxi from near the roundabout. Be aware that on the Cambodia side the police shake down all of the taxi drivers for at least $10 of each trip. The fare should be around $35, but often is as much as $55. Walk as far as you can stand and don’t deal with middlemen if you want a lower price.

Cambodia visa fees increasing

Posted on August 22, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

The Cambodia Ministry of Foreign Affairs recently announced that the price of one-month visas will be going up as of October 1, 2014. The price of the 30-day tourist visa will rise from $20 to $30, and the price of a 30-day “ordinary” visa, also called the business visa, will rise fro $25 to $35.  The price of E-visas (aka tourist visas that are purchased online, as opposed to E-class ordinary/business visas) will rise to $37. Update as of June, 2015, E-visas incur an addition $3 fee, bringing the total cost up to $40.

Visas will continue to be free for those under 12.

In their statement, they also went back to calling the “ordinary” E-class visa a “business visa”, but in light of the fact that the statement was called a “ress release” we are unsure of the significance of the visa name change, if any.

The price of the tourist visa (not including extensions) has remained the same for more than two decades, so we think this price hike is not worth moaning about.

So far, they have not announced an increase in long term visas (3-month, 6-month, and 12-month) although it seems likely that is coming down the pipeline.

There have also been rumors that the 12-month visa may be eliminated and others saying that Cambodia visas will eventually allow free entry into ASEAN countries. There’s been no confirmation that either of these rumors are true, however.

This is on the back of the recent work permit rumors (link has been updated with today’s news). While it’s true that apart from the price hike of the 30-day visa everything is still idle speculation on the part of Cambodia’s expats, it seems likely that with the creation of the Department of Immigration earlier this year, some things may change.

For the full scoop on Cambodia visas, read our page about Cambodia visas.

Review: Sushi Kaihomaru, Aeon Mall

Posted on August 18, 2014 by Lina Goldberg

8/3/2015:  Sushi Kaihomaru no long has an all-you-can-eat sushi deal and has switched to an ala carte menu.

It’s no secret that I’m a big sushi fan. And apparently I’m not the only one, because Phnom Penh is awash in new sushi joints. In a desperate bid to set itself apart from the competition, a new sushi restaurant in Aeon Mall is offering all-you-can-eat sushi and all-you-can-drink beer for just $10. Can it be true? Yes, it is. Can it be good? Surprisingly, yes.

all-you-can-eat sushi and all-you-can-drink beer

80 minutes of all-you-can-eat sushi and all-you-can-drink beer for $10. Don’t bother reading the review, just go.

Sushi Kaihomaru is on the second floor of the new Aeon Mall (more, undoubtedly, about that later). They have a conveyor belt sushi bar, as well as tables that seat up to six. The deal is you get 80 minutes of all-you-can-eat sushi and all-you-can-drink Angkor beer for $10. They will charge you an extra $5 if you leave too much rice on your plate–this is to stop people from eating the sushi sashimi-style and leaving two dozen perfectly formed rice balls on their plate. Even if you choose to skip the rice and pay the extra $5, it’s a ridiculously good deal.

Free beer at Sushi Kaihomaru Phnom Penh

You heard the sign. Free beer.

I’m not sure if they’ve been open long enough to know that when two large foreigners walk through the door, they’re going to take a loss for the night, but they were so friendly that I suspect not. The sushi is good quality, with a surprising number of expensive choices including scallop nigiri, which goes for $4 for two pieces at The Sushi Bar. At Sushi Kaihomaru it’s the same quality, but all you can eat for $10. I can’t pretend to understand the economics behind this.

The sushi chefs at are Japanese, as are a fair number of the staff. They say that all of their fish is flown in from Japan and I have no reason not to believe them, other than the fact that the whole thing does not seem financially viable. There’s another Sushi Kaihomaru near Central Market, although they don’t have an all-you-can-eat deal, so maybe…I have no idea. If you can figure it out, let me know.

All you can eat sushi Sushi Kaihomaru

Sushi Kaihomaru at Aeon Mall. Eat up, dudes.

Most of the sushi that comes around is nigiri, with lots of salmon and tuna. It’s not the best salmon or tuna sushi you’ve ever had in your life, but it’s surprisingly good for the price and pretty ridiculous value for money. If you sit around long enough–and with an 80 minute limit I suspect you’ll try–special offerings show up including raw prawns, salmon roe, and octopus. They’ve also got some strange maki creations, many of which involved sweet corn, that I was unwilling to try but which I saw many Cambodian families appreciatively consuming.

Sushi Kaihomaru Aeon Mall Phnom Penh

Cooked food at Sushi Kaihomaru, also surprisingly good.

There’s also a small hot food bar with cooked food including miso soup, udon, noodles, tempura, fried mackerel and beef. Again, for the price it seems impossible that they’ll be able to stay in business if they have very many hungry Western customers.

Overall, Sushi Kaihomaru offers excellent value for money, even if you’re skipping the beer and drinking free-flow tea and soda. The staff was friendly, the beers came faster that I’d expect (although you’ll have to ask for a refill each time) and the sushi selection was surprisingly diverse. I know I used the word surprisingly a half-dozen times in this post, but that’s because I was actually surprised by the whole operation. I don’t expect this bargain to last, so go soon.

They’re open 10:30 a.m. and the last seating is 8:30 p.m. The close the doors around 9:00 p.m., so if you want your full 80 minutes of sushi madness, show up by 7:30 p.m. or so.

Sushi Kaihomaru

Aeon Mall, 2nd Floor
#132 Sothearos Blvd, Sangkat Tonle Bassac, Phnom Penh
T: 023 982 625