Cambodia expat blog: Cambodia travel tips, advice, and info

Phnom Penh’s newest backpacker hostels

Posted on June 25, 2015 by Lina Goldberg

Once upon a time, it was easy to find (or avoid) the backpackers in Phnom Penh. They would congregate around cheap guesthouses with shared rooms and $0.50 beers. Ten years ago, their hub was the lakeside area at Boueng Kak and Riverside. Then it was Golden Street (Street 278 between 51 and 57).

New hostels are springing up all over Phnom Penh, and not in the places you’d expect.

Nowadays, there are a few more areas where backpacker-friendly businesses cluster — for example, on Street 172 to Street 136 on either side of Street 19 and towards the river, where you can find Happy 11 Backpackers, Lovely Jubbly Place, and the Happy House, but there are a few backpacker staples (Mad Monkey, Eighty8) further afield.

Lately, we’ve been seeing new hostels pop up in neighborhoods you might not expect. If you are looking for cheap accommodation in Phnom Penh, consider these five relatively recent additions to the hostel scene:

Aura Thematic Hostel

$10 and up per night

Aura Hostel: It’s brand-new and very affordable.

With the finishing touches on the construction just completed, this brand-spanking-new hostel behind the Royal Palace near the corner with Street 214 has a rooftop bar (Eluvium) and funky design touches in all of the rooms. The front desk told us that this month they are offering a soft-opening 50% discount on all of their rooms, which are normally $10 and up. The shared rooms are bright and have bathrooms inside, with IKEA-esque light fixtures and cool graphic accent wall murals. There is a bit of construction outside as new sewage pipes are being installed along the length of Street 19, but the rooms are not facing the street so it shouldn’t be too loud.

Aura Thematic Hostel
205A Street 19, Daun Penh, Phnom Penh
T: 023 986 211
info@aurahostel.com
aurahostel.com

Envoy Hostel

$8 and up per night

Envoy Hostel is a Phnom Penh mansion-turned-hostel with lots of room to spread out.

This mansion-turned-hostel is on a quiet street in BKK near the BKK Market. There is a big courtyard, which leads a comfortable common area on the ground floor and a computer and kitchen facilities (with toaster!). A big Khmer wooden staircase brings you upstairs, where the rooms are named after places in Cambodia, and are priced according to the number of beds; a four-bed room is $12 per person, while an eight-bed room is $8 per person.

Dorm life at Envoy Hostel.

Envoy Hostel has a very homey feel, with bean bag chairs and bay windows, and since it is in a more expat and residential part of town, it is both less known by the typical Phnom Penh backpacker, and closer to many of the great restaurants in BKK1.

The glamorous front of Envoy Hostel.

Envoy Hostel
32 Street 322, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 023 220 840
phnompenhbookings@envoyhostel.com
envoyhostel.com

Feel at Home

$7/night shared rooms and $25/night private rooms (except the Hobbit Room, which has a low ceiling and fan only, $18)

Feel at home at Phnom Penh’s Feel at Home Hostel in the Tonle Bassac neighborhood.

Feel at Home Hostel is right around the corner from the very popular Street 308 area, which is an eating and drinking hot spot in Phnom Penh at the moment. This neighborhood has everything from dumplings (Mama Wong’s), to pizza (Luigi’s Piccola D’Italia) and rotisserie chicken (Chicky’s) and Russian (Irina’s), with cheap beer (Red Bar) to $5 cocktails (Bassac Lane) to wash it down. This area is still residential, so bars close at 11 p.m.

The hostel stands out with its bright orange accents, but provides a convenient base for planning your trip around Cambodia and for visiting Phnom Penh. The staff is very friendly and the rooms are comfortable — tall guests please note that the “Hobbit Room” has quite low ceilings and no aircon (which explains its price being a bit lower than the other private rooms).

Feel at Home
17B Street 29, between Streets 294 and 308, Tonle Bassac, Phnom Penh
T: 023 223 849
reservations@feel-at-home-guesthouse.com
feel-at-home-guesthouse.com

One Stop Hostel

$7 and up per night

One Stop Hostel in Phnom Penh is a cut above the rest.

One Stop Hostel is a newcomer on the north end of Riverside, but the great staff, layout and amenities set it apart from the usual offerings. Enthusiastic staff are eager to practice their English with you, and are more than happy to help arrange transportation, laundry, etc. The common room is on the mezzanine level above reception, and looked like a cool place to hang out on cushions and read or chat. The bathrooms are outside of the rooms, but fully tiled and very clean. In the height of hot season, hair dryers might not seem like a useful appliance, but for more polished backpackers or during cold season we can them being really handy.

Dorm rooms at One Stop Hostel.

One Stop Hostel
85 Sisowath Quay, Riverside, Phnom Penh
T: 023 99 2822; 097 803 5379
info@onestophostel.com
www.onestophostel.com

Packer Choices

$5 per night and up

Down and dirty at Packers Choice Hostel in Phnom Penh.

A stripped down-style hostel very conveniently located behind the Royal Palace on Street 19 close to Art Street (Street 178). This was the most “broken in” hostel on our tour of new hostels: all of the rooms were occupied and many still had residents at noon on a weekday — with the accompanying overflowing backpacks and smells — which is why we don’t have photos of the rooms, but the beds were sturdy and there was sufficient locker space. The staff was helpful and everything seemed to be in working order; the female-only dorm has two bathrooms inside the room, while the coed dorm has its two bathrooms down the hall. The great location means that this hostel often gets booked up — we recommend reserving in advance if you plan to stay!

Common area at Packers Choice Hostel.

Packer Choices
187 Street 19, Royal Palace area, Phnom Penh
T 016 630 323
facebook.com/Packer-Choices-Hostel

Street ramen in Phnom Penh

Posted on June 22, 2015 by Lina Goldberg

It’s clear when you see the small kiosk on wheels that appears on the riverside every evening around dusk, that this is the culmination of someone’s dreams. It’s evident they are not in it for the money or the glory; whoever is behind Champion Japanese Ramen is in it for the love of ramen.

For the love of ramen: this street ramen kiosk parts on the riverside every night.

The small stand is much like a Japanese yatai, a petite mobile food stall popular in Fukuoka. This one seats just three people, and even that is a tight squeeze. The street stand is bedecked with the traditional red flags that proclaim “ramen!” in Japanese, and a hanging paper lamp. It’s spotless and simple, but at the same time adorable, probably because it’s so incongruous on Phnom Penh’s seedy riverside.

Supplies at Champion Ramen are limited. Every day they make a small amount of broth, and once they’ve served ten bowls of ramen, they pack up and go home. Bone broth is all the rage in New York and London, but ramen aficionados have long know the delight of a savory, creamy broth made from from long-simmered bones. The most common is tonkotsu ramen, made from pork bones. The broth at Champion Ramen is lighter than tonkotsu — it’s made from chicken bones — but it’s nearly as rich.

Champion ramen serves up a bowl with all of the traditional Japanese toppings.

Champion Ramen’s bowls are filled with ramen noodles, cooked al dente so there’s a little bit of resistance when you bite down. Half of a marinated soft-boiled egg is floated in the bowl, and a few thick slices of fatty chashu pork are added. The ramen is then adorned with finely sliced spring onions, and on most days, a type of marinated bamboo called menma. This is, without question, an authentic bowl of ramen, that eschews all of the strange toppings that you’ll sometimes find in what often passes for ramen in Cambodia — baby corn, bok choy, carrots, bean sprouts, and sweet corn, to name but a few.

It’s my firm belief that you’ll never get a good bowl of ramen at a regular Japanese restaurant with a full menu of different items. The best ramen is made by people who make nothing else. At the best ramen places in Japan, you’ll find little more on the menu than a few types of ramen and fried gyoza. So the fact that Champion Ramen serves literally nothing but ramen is a good sign. And their ramen is pretty damn good. Maybe not the best I’ve ever had in my life, but probably the best I’ve had in Phnom Penh. The riverside ambience doesn’t hurt.

Bowls of ramen cost just $3.50, and since they only serve 10 bowls per day, it seems unlikely that the business is very profitable. The very sweet counter guy told us that the owner is a Japanese architect who just loves ramen. If you love ramen, too, you should check out Champion.

Champion Ramen

Open daily, 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. (or until the ramen runs out)
Location varies, Phnom Penh riverside, usually across from La Croisette, Phnom Penh
T: 016 510 104
facebook.com/champion.pp.kh

How to get from Battambang to Phnom Penh (and vice-versa)

Posted on June 19, 2015 by Allison Jane Smith

Battambang is about 180 miles (290 kilometers) away from Phnom Penh, a distance that can take you anywhere between four to seven hours to travel, depending on traffic, flooding, and how you choose to go. Here are our picks for getting from Phnom Penh to Battambang and vice-versa.

Getting between Phnom Penh and Battambang is easier than you might think!

Bus

All the bus companies in Battambang are located a few blocks north of Psar Nath, making it easy enough to visit to book yourself, though guesthouses and hotels can book for you as well, although they will often add an extra couple bucks to the price.

Capitol Tours is the best option of the big buses. The ticket costs 24,000 riel ($6) and takes between six and seven hours (don’t be fooled by the website saying it will get you there in five). There will be frequent stops to let people on and off the bus and you’ll be treated to Cambodia karaoke videos for the duration of the ride.

Capitol Tours runs big buses between Phnom Penh to Battambang. Prepare for karaoke videos.

The Battambang bus station was recently moved just outside of town along National Road 5, but if you arrive at the Capitol office twenty minutes before your bus, they’ll take you to the station.

In Phnom Penh, the buses arrive and leave from Capitol Guesthouse near Orussey Market.

Capitol Tours schedule:
Battambang to Phnom Penh: 6:30 a.m., 7 a.m., 7:30 a.m., 8 a.m., 8:30 a.m., 9 a.m., 10 a.m., 11 a.m., 12 p.m., 1 p.m., 1:30 p.m., 2:30 p.m., 3:15 p.m. (Friday only), 4:15 p.m., 5:30 p.m.

Phnom Penh to Battambang: 7 a.m., 8 a.m., 9 a.m., 10:30 a.m., 11:30 a.m., 12:30 p.m., 1 p.m., 2:15 p.m., 2:45 p.m. 4 p.m. 5:30 p.m

Mini-bus

Mini-buses offer complimentary pick-up if you book at a guesthouse or a hotel in Battambang. They take between four to five hours to reach Phnom Penh, make one stop for a meal in Pursat, and occasionally another stop for a brief bathroom break or to refuel.

Golden Bayon Express Battambang Phnom Penh

By mini-bus is the fastest way to get from Phnom Penh to Battambang.

Regardless of which mini-bus you take, book a seat closer to the front of the bus rather than further back, as there are some rough spots on the highway where the ride in the back of the bus is quite bumpy.

As you enter Phnom Penh, there may be a few stops to let some Cambodian people off on the side of the road.

As you enter Battambang, there is usually one stop on the east side of the river before crossing the bridge to the west side, where the bus company offices are.

At $12, Mekong Express is the most expensive but also the most comfortable of the mini-bus options. It offers the most leg space, so tall people should consider Mekong Express if they often feel cramped by other options. Note that they will play karaoke videos for the duration of the trip.

In Phnom Penh, Mekong Express drops you off at its office close to Orussey Market, which is convenient for avoiding the worst of Phnom Penh’s traffic. If your guesthouse is somewhere close to the river, however, it will still be a bit of a tuk tuk ride to get there.

Golden Bayon Express charges $10 per person (sometimes you can go to a travel agent on Riverside in Phnom Penh and get that down to $9, but when booking in Battambang to go to Phnom Penh it always seems to be $10), and usually leaves on time.

Though not as spacious as Mekong Express mini-buses, their buses are clean and relatively comfortable, unless you are squished in the back row with three others (again, ask for a seat closer to the front). It also features free WiFi in their buses that sometimes works, but more often doesn’t.

The interior of a Golden Bayon mini-bus between Phnom Penh and Battambang.

Their office in Phnom Penh is close to Central Market, a bit more centrally located than Mekong Express’ office.

We’ve received a reader report that Mean Chey Express has recently upgraded to all new 16-seat mini-buses that are “consistently clean, on time efficient, includes cold water and doesn’t blast karaoke.” The trip takes less than 5 hours and costs $8 or $9, depending on how far in advance you book.

Mekong Express schedule:
Battambang to Phnom Penh: 7:30 a.m., 8:30 a.m., 9:30 a.m.,11 a.m. 2:30 p.m., 5 p.m.
Phnom Penh to Battambang: 5:30 a.m., 6:20 a.m., 7:30 a.m., 8:30 a.m., 11:30 a.m., 12:30 p.m. 1:30 p.m.

Golden Bayon schedule:
Battambang to Phnom Penh: 7:00 a.m., 8:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m., 2:30 p.m.
Phnom Penh to Battambang: 7:00 a.m., 8:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m., 2:30 p.m.

Mean Chey Express:
Battambang to Phnom Penh: 7:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m.
Phnom Penh to Battambang: 7:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m.

Taxi

A private taxi costs around $60 and takes about four hours. You can hire a private taxi through a hotel or guesthouse. Keep in mind the trunk may not be empty, as the driver may be transporting something to Phnom Penh. Taxis are usually Toyota Camrys that can seat four passengers, although it can be a tight squeeze.

Share taxis depart from northwest of Boeung Chhouk market, on National Road 5, and are usually $10 per seat. Note that the front seat beside the driver is considered two seats, so if you want to have that seat to yourself you’ll probably have to pay $20.

Capitol Tours

capitolkh.com
Ticket Offices: La Hte Street (at Street 103), Battambang [map]
T:053 953 040; 011 956 105; 012 991

14AEO Street 182, Phnom Penh [map]
T: 023 724 104; 023 217 627

Mekong Express

Book Mekong Express tickets online

Ticket offices: Corner of Road 3 and Street 111, just north of Psar Nhat, Battambang
T: 088 576 7668

Booking office outside Orussey Market, Phnom Penh [map]
T: 012 787 839; 098 833 399; 023 427 518

Golden Bayon Express

Book Golden Bayon tickets online

Ticket offices: Street 101, between La He St and Road 3, Battambang [map]
T: 070 968 966; 089 279 909

3Eo Street 51/126, Psar Thmei, Phnom Penh [map]
T: 023 966 968; 089 221 919; 010 968 966

Mean Chey Express

Ticket offices: Street 115, one block west of Psar Nath across from Holiday Hotel, Battambang [map]
T:095 992 111; 098 992 111

48 Street 289, near Psar Toul Kork, Toul Kork, Phnom Penh[map]
T: 011 992 111; 068 992 111

Cambodia scams: Fake monks

Posted on June 12, 2015 by Lina Goldberg

Been stopped by a monk asking for a donation? They’ve been spotted all over the world, so it’s no surprise that Cambodia hasn’t escaped those greedy pests, fake monks. Although you’ll find them from Melbourne to San Francisco, fake monks are especially insidious in Cambodia, a Buddhist country and home to thousands of real monks.

This is not a real monk. Do not give him money.

Tourists here delight in seeing monks, and a photo of a saffron-clad monk at the temples is a coveted holiday treasure. Because tourists are so keen to see real monks, it’s no wonder that the fake-monk scam has taken off in Cambodia. You’ll find faux monks anywhere in the country where there are tourists — Sihanoukville, Phnom Penh, and Siem Reap — and their goal is to rip off tourists.

How to spot a fake monk in Cambodia: Fake monks are usually Chinese and are often (but not always) dressed in brown or mustard-colored robes, unlike the bright orange garb of their authentic Khmer counterpart, and will wear pants underneath their robes. They are usually middle-aged, while most Cambodian monks are in their twenties or even younger. Fake monks don’t usually speak any Khmer and very little English, other than to demand more money. They often wear wooden prayer beads and offer people bracelets or amulets. Fake monks will often collect money well into the night, unlike real monks who only collect in the morning. Perhaps most importantly, it’s reported that they don’t seem to know anything about Buddhism.

What’s the scam? Fake monks ask for cash donations and are rarely satisfied with what they are offered. They sometimes have bracelets that they’ll tie around your wrist, or amulets that they will give you and then demand cash for. Tourists are told that monks in Cambodia must be treated with respect, and most responsible tourists try to do just that. So when a monk demands a donation, it can be very hard to say no. It’s being reported that the fake monks are asking for donations not just from tourists but from Cambodians, who, as Buddhists, have an even harder time saying no to a monk.

The real deal: Cambodian monks in Phnom Penh.

One of the precepts for Cambodian monks states that they must not handle money. Traditionally in Cambodia, Buddhists donate food or medicine as the monks go on their morning alms rounds. This tradition is eroding, though, as Cambodia becomes a more cash-centric society, and it’s common to see people giving a few hundred or a few thousand riel to visiting monks. However, taking cash is still a violation of the precepts for Cambodian monks, and you will never see a “real” monk begging or asking for money.

In a New York Times article about fake monks in Manhattan, Robert Buswell, director of the Center for Buddhist Studies at UCLA, said, “Aggressive begging is utterly unheard-of in the Buddhist tradition. The monks typically do not even acknowledge the offering.” In Cambodia, real monks stand quietly outside homes or businesses, holding their begging bowls, waiting to be noticed. They do not beg.

Say no to fake monks. While this scam isn’t the most harmful one around — it does nothing worse than relieve tourists of a little of their money — it puts real monks, and Cambodian Buddhism generally, in a bad light. Cambodian monks have enough of their own real-life dramas and scandals to contend with; they don’t need a bunch of fake Chinese monks sullying their reputation even further. Giving money to a faux monk and later finding out that you’ve been scammed is an unpleasant experience for a tourist, and people who give money to fake monks are less likely to give to real organizations that will actually help Cambodians. The experience would be even worse for a Cambodian, whose donation may represent a much bigger sacrifice. So say no to fake monks, and spread the word.

Wondering what fake monks look like? Artist John Weeks captured this video and has more great photos on his blog.

Have you been scammed by a fake monk? Tell us about your experience in the comments section.

Searching for the best pizza in Phnom Penh

Posted on June 5, 2015 by Zita Long

This is our first post from Siem Reap-based writer Zita Long. Zita is Canadian-Cambodian and the head baker of Siem Reap Bäckerei, a microbakery specializing in artisanal sourdough breads. Zita is interested in all things edible, and will be sharing his reviews of the best that Cambodia has to offer. In this post, he asks the eternal question, “Where can I find the best pizza in Phnom Penh?”

Last week I had the opportunity to spend a few days in Phnom Penh. I took advantage of that opportunity and — guided by online research and recommendations from food fanatic friends — visited some of the “best” pizza joints in Phnom Penh. Keep reading and you’ll see my scathing reviews. Nah, just playin’, I’d like to think my reviews are honest and fair. Additionally, I want to demonstrate why the opening question is utter bullpoop. A much better question is, “I prefer ‘this style of pizza’, where can I find it?” You’ll see what I mean.

Desperately seeking the best pizza in Phnom Penh.

Piccola Italia Da Luigi

Piccola Italia is a popular pizzeria amongst Phnom Penh expats, it seems. Basically, you have this small, cramped restaurant, on the edge of a narrow lane, packed with peeps either squeezing their way into the eatery, possibly seated next to strangers, or standing nearby to pick up their takeaway pizzas.

From what I hear and read, Piccola Italia makes the most authentic Italian pizza in Phnom Penh. Maybe, I don’t know. That’s a vague and bold claim, but what I do know is that Piccola Italia makes crispy, thin-crust pizzas. Brittle, crackly, with bulbous air pockets around the rim, that holds its shape when lifted (a pizza slice, that is). However, contrary to what some people may believe, I don’t think they’re wood-fired.

Does Piccola Pizza have the best pies in town?

I ordered the Dell’ennese, a pizza topped with mozzarella and pecorino cheese, cherry tomatoes, Italian sausage, oregano, and black olives. To be frank with you, I was disappointed. Not because the pizza tasted awful (it tasted alright, actually), but because I expected a tomato sauce based pizza. I skimmed the menu too quickly, so totally my fault! My only regret is that I’m only one person and couldn’t try a wider selection of their pizzas.

Also, I was shocked at how many expats (likely regulars) in Piccola Italia spoke Khmer to the local servers, with near perfect accents. (I’m a Canadian-Khmer, by the way.) There were several of them, a mix of Italians, French, and other non-Khmer nationalities! That’s friggin’ cool, man.

Arriving when the open is the best way to get a seat at Piccola. They are packed most nights!

Suggestions: Make reservations if dining with a group or even with one other person. Unless you enjoy crowds or have no other options, eat on weekdays at 5 p.m., just when the restaurant opens for dinner. Be patient with service.

The damage: $6.25 (Dell’ennese, Medium)

The Italian House

Phnom Penh, you have a hidden treasure! Shy of a year old, The Italian House is a quiet, cosy restaurant specializing in Neapolitan-style pizzas. What’s that, you say? No worries, I’ll explain.

The Italian House: A hidden gem with Neapolitan-style pizzas.

Most commercial ovens hit a max temp of 400C/750F. In such machinery, pizzas typically take a few minutes to cook (with an evenly browned crust). In comparison, Neapolitan-style pizzas bake at higher temperatures and cook in about 30 to 90 seconds. This is accomplished by using a scorching hot, domed (for better hot air circulation), wood/coal-fired, clay/brick oven. Other specifications for certified Neapolitan pizzas include using a specific type of Italian tomatoes for the sauce, using a certain type of Italian flour for the crust, etc.

By chance, I met Mr. Paolo, the owner and manager of The Italian House. A stern, quiet, and reserved dude. (For whatever reason, these are common traits in a lot of professional bakers, including myself.) Mr. Paolo is a 2-in-1 pro: an expert pizza maker AND brick oven builder from Italy. I’m telling you, this guy knows his schmitt. Seriously, that beautifully charred, dark golden brown crust, mottled with black spots, encircling a bed of tomato sauce with melted fresh mozzarella atop. I nearly peed myself from excitement when I first laid my eyes on those beauties, both the self-built wood-fired oven and pizza.

The expertly made wood-fired oven at The Italian House.

Having said that, Neapolitan-style pizzas are not for everybody. They can be described as floppy, droopy, or soggy, but that’s exactly the characteristics you want for this classic, traditional pizza (originating centuries ago in Naples, Italy). They’re eaten with forks and knives, served as a whole or unsliced, prepared in smaller portions, and rather simplistic in toppings, often with a higher ratio of tomato sauce to (mozzarella) cheese. I ordered the four seasons pizza, topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella, green olives, mushrooms, ham, and artichokes. As a fan of Neapolitan-style pizzas, I was more than satisfied!

Caution, though! The servers here are somewhat inattentive, but not purposely. They’re still learning, still trying to get their groove on, so please be patient with them.

The damage: $8.50 (Four Seasons, Normal)

Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro

After a quick glance at their pizzas, some of you may think, “That’s so American.” Others are saying, “Hell yeah!” It’s large, it’s substantial, and it’s drenched in cheesy, meaty goodness. Certainly can make a meal for two or three and quench each person’s appetite.

Like big pizzas? Head to Brooklyn Pizza for a seriously American-style pie.

Compared to pizzas at Piccola Italia and The Italian House, the crust at Brooklyn Pizza is more aerated and chewy. Not too firm and crispy, not too floppy and droopy. Just hard enough to pick up a slice by hand and soft enough to fold lengthwise (not sure if this pizza-folding habit is a New York thing) and shove into your mouth.

The owner of Brooklyn Pizza, Mr. Jay, is one heck of a friendly and rad guy. Going from one table to another, asking customers for their feedback, while greeting and saying farewell to familiar faces. I had a brief convo with Mr. Jay about his pizzas and learned two critical things. First, his pizzas are supposed to be a meal in itself. Check! Second, the crust is supposed to be thicker and breadier to withstand hefty toppings. Check!

You’ll also find burgers, cheesecakes, and a variety of beers including German and Belgian beers, and local craft beers from Cerevisia Craft Brewhouse at Brooklyn Pizza. Now that’s what I’m talkin’ about! A perfect pair, pizza and beer.

Head to Brooklyn Pizza to find pizza that will make you say “hell yeah!”

So what delicious monstrosity did I order? Actually, I didn’t order the pizza. My newly made baker friend from New York did. If I’m not mistaken, we had the “Stella,” a pizza topped with mozzarella and feta cheese, pepperoni, roasted garlic, spinach, and mushrooms. We both enjoyed it and had our fill, to say the least.

The damage: $10.95 (Stella, Large)

Conclusion

There’s no universal “best” pizza. However, if possible, eat-in for best results. Try different styles, different toppings, chase what you love and avoid what you hate. It’s as simple as that. Also, there’s no need to ridicule or put down other people’s taste preferences, unless that preference is roasted puppies stolen from neighbourly households. That’s just inconsiderate.

I know, I know! I missed out on this and that pizzeria and pizza shop. There were several on my list that I didn’t dine at, couldn’t due to time restrictions and a slow metabolism. However, please feel free to give recommendations in the comments below. When I revisit Phnom Penh, I’ll be sure to follow your suggestions. Thanks in advance!

Piccola Italia Da Luigi

36 Street 308, Tonle Bassac, Phnom Penh
T: 017 323 273

The Italian House

Open daily, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
2 Street 312 (end of Street 9), Tonle Bassac, Phnom Penh
T: 092 230 207

Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro

Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
20 Street 123, Toul Tom Pong, Phnom Penh
T: 089 925 926

How to get from Phnom Penh to Hanoi

Posted on May 27, 2015 by Lina Goldberg

Hanoi is an excellent weekend getaway from Phnom Penh, filled with lots to see and perhaps more importantly, lots to eat. The last time I went to Hanoi, I spent a week scratching my head trying to figure out how to actually get there. But now that I’ve figured out, I’m here to tell you the best ways to get from Phnom Penh to Hanoi.

A motobike with a giant basket of flowers on the back in Hanoi.

Hello Hanoi!

There are no direct flights between Phnom Penh and Hanoi. Vietnam Airlines flies the route with a 45-minute stop in Vientiane. The flight takes a little over three hours and costs start at $227 one way, or $355 for a round-trip ticket. Flights can often go up to as much as $600 return. To add insult to injury, they don’t serve alcohol on the flights. It’s possible that come high season they will start doing direct flights again, but right now there aren’t any scheduled.

Irritated by the price and schedule, I, like many intrepid expats, made my way to Hanoi with a mix of busing and flying, which can be done for less than $70 each way.

There are a number of buses that go between Phnom Penh and Ho Chi Minh City. The trip takes anywhere from six to eight hours depending on how things are at the border.

One of my favorites is the Giant Ibis bus from Phnom Penh to HCMC. They offer luxury buses with WiFi leaving every day at 8:00 a.m. Tickets cost $18 and include hotel pickup. You can book online (recommended) for an extra $1 and reserve a seat in advance.

I’ve also taken the less expensive use a travel agent than to go to the Vietnam Embassy in Phnom Penh.

Once you’re in HCMC, it’s a $6 or $7 taxi ride to the airport (take Mai Linh taxis if you don’t want to experience the joys of rigged Vietnamese taxi meters). There are a dozen daily flights that fly the HCMC-Hanoi route, priced as low as $40. Vietnam Airlines is the most reliable but most expensive and they charge extra for one way fares. A better option is Jetstar Vietnam. They’re cheap and while Vietnam expats like to gripe about them, I’ve had pretty good experiences with them.

There’s a newcomer on the scene, Vietjet Air. I’d strongly recommend against using them. Although they have 6 flights a day on this route, they usually combine them to fill planes, and only run a few per day. Both of my Vietjet Air flights were cancelled, and I was moved onto one of the later flights. On the way there, it was only an hour delay. But on the way back it was a 5 hour delay. Definitely not worth the $5 savings. With any of these airlines, though, expect some delays and don’t schedule tight transfers.

If you’re not the flying sort, there are buses from HCMC to Hanoi, but they’re long and unappealing. Consider instead taking the Reunification Express, a train that runs the length of Vietnam. The trip is long, it’s 2.5 days and best to break it up with stops along the way. But you’ll see some of the most gorgeous countryside in Vietnam as you make your way up the country.

Another option for those just looking for cheaper flights is the new Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City route on Qatar Airways that’s priced at $215 return. Combine this with Jetstar and you can get to Hanoi for around $315.

Finally, another option is to get yourself to Siem Reap by bus, taxi, or plane, and fly Vietnam Airlines from there. They’ve got a direct flight from Siem Reap to Hanoi that usually starts at $340 return or $200 one way. Although this way is not always the cheapest, the flights with Cambodia Angkor Air line up well and allow for a long weekend in Hanoi. Happy Hanoi-ing!

Bus tickets purchased through links in this post to read more here.

Juicing in the Charming City: Phnom Penh juice bars

Posted on May 21, 2015 by Jen Green

Cambodia is hot year-round, and Phnom Penh expats of a certain age try to stay in shape. Who can blame them, with the variety of gyms available, not to mention other fitness, yoga and dance classes in town. And the beach is just a three to four-hour bus ride away, right? Not to mention the Penh’s many pools; one is often required to be bikini or boardshort-ready as an expat in Cambodia.

Juicing in Phnom Penh, a sign at Juicy Mercy.

But eating healthy is just as important as getting in your exercise. And whether or not working out is your thing, sometimes drinking your five-a-day is nicer than all of the chewing involved in eating a big healthy salad.

Juice bars are popping up all over Phnom Penh, just in time to keep your hot season “glow” and give you some much-needed vitamins and minerals. This raft of juice shops focuses on fresh, local fruits and vegetables, and no added sugar. Most juice bars offer both juices and smoothies– we’ve set out their sizes and prices so you can compare. We’ve noticed that Phnom Penh juice bars don’t open especially early (8 a.m.) but do stay open until 8 or 9 p.m. for the student crowd.

Get your juice on at Bbii Fresh in Phnom Penh

Bbii Fresh

Small juice: $2.50
Medium juice: $3.99
Smoothie: $3.99

Special features: Bbii Fresh have small juices for take-away in cute squat glass bottles, and one type of pre-made salad with two options for dressings. And there’s a unique feature among the Phnom Penh juice bars: a tidy, minimalist hostel/hotel in the back.

Juicy Mercy

juice (one size): $3.80
smoothie (one size): $2.80
Special features: Juicy Mercy also have a few salads, which looked tasty, and Greek yogurt. Although it is a little pricey, if you work out at The Place, Juicy Mercy means you can easily pop in for a juice post-workout. The space is also comfortable and includes tables and chairs that you could work at, or large leather couches.

Anti-aging carrot at pineapple juice at the Hub.

Hub Juice and Smoothie Bar

Small juice (12 oz): $2.80
Medium juice (16 oz): $3.50
Smoothie: $2.00 – $2.80

Special features: Hub’s juices and smoothies are fully customizable! Calorie information is included for each juice and smoothie. Plus, they have specials like frozen fruit popsicles and fruit juice mixed with Red Bull (consumers must be over 16). They also have a seven day “juice cleanse” program, which recommends certain juices to drink before lunch and before dinner. At $39.20 for the week, this is probably the most affordable juice cleanse in town (although you still have to buy your own meals). Plus, they deliver.

The Juice House

Small juice (12 oz): $2.85
Medium juice (16 oz): $3.95
Smoothie: $2.00 – $3.00

The Juice House has a unique approach to juice, which is to make them taste delicious by adding things like ice cream and cookies to them. It’s not all high-calorie treats, though. They have a range of 100% fruit and vegetable juices ingeniously served over ice so as to not dilute them, and smoothies that can be made with rice milk, almond milk, soy milk or cow’s milk, and sweetened with honey.

Juice served, literally, over ice.

Chom Ka (delivery only!)

juice: $4 for 500ml or $8 for 1 liter

This simple juice delivery service makes it easy to keep your home or work fridge stocked with juices to satisfy your 5-fruits-and-vegetables-a-day. Order the day before for morning delivery, or plan out an entire week of healthy juices to be delivered to your home or office. The mangosteen juice, which is only available during mangosteen season, is milkshake-thick, sweet, light pink, and not to be missed.

You can also get some fresh, healthy juices from these fine Phnom Penh cafes, along with yummy salads and other good-for-you fare:

Artillery juices $2.50, smoothies $2.50 -3.00, three-day Just Juice Cleanse $69 (delivery included)
Backyard Cafe juices $3.50, smoothies $3.50 – 4, 3 day juice cleanse $65
Gerbie’s juices $2.95, smoothies $3.25
Kettlebell Cafe juices $2.25- 2.75
Vego juices $2.95, “Power Drinks” $2.95

Bbii Fresh

172A Street 51, between Street 360 and 370, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 011 883 882; 093 883 882
facebook.com/BbiiFRESH
bbiigroup.com

Juicy Mercy

22 Street 282, between Street 51 and Norodom Blvd, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 017 610 904
facebook.com/juicymercy

Hub Juice and Smoothie Bar

Corner of St 310 and St 63, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 016 995 993
hubcambodia.com

The Juice House

30Eo Street 178, Daun Penh, Phnom Penh
T:012 220 815
facebook.com/thejuicehousePP

Chom Ka

T: 017 359 545 (call or text)
facebook.com/pages/Chom-Ka-Juice

Artillery

Street “240 ½” off of Street 240, Royal Palace area, Phnom Penh
13B Street 278 between Street 57 and Street 63, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 078 985 530, 012 904 365
artillerycafe.com

Backyard Cafe

11B Street 246, Royal Palace area, Phnom Penh
T: 078 751 715
backyardeats.com

Gerbie’s

78 Street 51, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 098 786 161
facebook.com/gerbiessaladandsandwich

Kettlebell Cafe

45 Street 454, Toul Tom Pong, Phnom Penh
T: 012 750 430
facebook.com/amatakkettlebellcafe

Vego Salad Bar

3Eo Street 51, BKK1, Phnom Penh
21B Street 294, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 012 984 596; 011 984 596
vegosaladbar.com

Review: Cambodia Bayon Airlines

Posted on May 19, 2015 by Lina Goldberg

Yet another Chinese entrant into Cambodian domestic airspace, Cambodia Bayon Airlines flies between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville, and Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville. Flights are incredibly cheap, but there are some serious safety concerns to consider. We fly Cambodia Bayon Airlines from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap and see what all of the fuss is about.

Cambodia Bayon Airlines flies Chinese MA60 turboprop planes. Be ready for a loud ride.

Cambodia Bayon Airlines is Chinese-owned, partially by Joy Air who unsurprisingly chose not to operate under their original name, which sounds exceedingly crude in the Khmer language. They’re flying one MA60, a Soviet-style turboprop plane, that covers all of the three routes each day, but they’re planning to expand their fleet and presumably dominate the Cambodian domestic market with flights between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap every 45 minutes.

The MA60 (“Modern Ark 60”) is a Chinese-made plan with a troubled history. Because of numerous crashes, accidents, and safety concerns, the plane has been banned from flying in the US, Europe, UK, New Zealand, and Australia. Recently, countries like Tonga, Nepal, and Indonesia have either gotten rid of or banned the MA60 due to safety issues. Cambodia Bayon Airlines, on the other hand, has 19 more on order, which will eventually make them one of the airlines in the world with the largest number of these exotic, if dangerous, planes (only beaten by the aptly named Okay Airlines).

Economy class on Cambodia Bayon Air…not as bad as you might expect.

Now here’s where I digress into the stuff that you might not care about, but Bayon Air purchased the 20 planes at a cost of $450 million from Chinese state-owned aerospace company Aviation Industry Corporation of China (AVIC). But according to the Phnom Penh Post, “Bayon Air is a subsidiary of Bayon Holding Limited, which is wholly owned by AVIC and China Easter Air’s Joy Air.” So yes, a company is purchasing millions of dollars in unsafe planes from itself to operate in Cambodian airspace.

Of course I was completely unaware of any of this when I booked the morning Bayon Air flight from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. And it was fine; I survived the flight. The flight took about 50 minutes, which is longer than Bassaka Air, because it’s a smaller plane. The noise near the propellers is pretty loud, and there’s no room for any large or awkward luggage in the overhead bins. Perhaps knowing these failings, Bayon Air bribes its passengers by handing out pastries and water during the flight.

The pastry bribe: not bad for a 50-minute flight.

I was told that check-in closes 30 minutes before the flight takes off (and boarding starts at the same time). Like the other domestic airlines, Bayon Airlines is relatively lax with ID requirements and will accept a photocopy of your passport in lieu of the real thing. I also noticed the security screener ignoring the screen, making me wish I hadn’t chucked my bottle of water.

The Bayon Airlines MA60 have 50 seats. 48 of those are regular economy seats, but the other two appear to be two random easy chairs in the back of the plane (which is where the passengers board) that makes up the whole of business class.

On the Phnom Penh to Siem Reap route, prices start at $32 for a one-way once taxes are included and a preposterous $153 for business class. The Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville route seems to be hovering around $70 (and $169 for biz). This route is especially silly, because it flies from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap to Sihanoukville, which takes almost three hours. If you hit the gas, you can drive it in the same amount of time, so the plane is probably not the best way to get from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. If you’re flying Siem Reap to Sihanoukville, flights are currently starting around $54 for a one-way ticket.

The exceedingly odd solo business class seat. There’s one more across the aisle.

Overall, I probably won’t be spending a lot of time flying on Cambodia Bayon Air because of safety concerns, but I also recognize that I’m probably more likely to die on Cambodia’s roads than I will in its skies, no matter how often I fly.

Bayon Airlines schedule:
Phnom Penh to Siem Reap: 8:10 a.m.
Siem Reap to Phnom Penh: 8:00 p.m.

Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville: 4:20 p.m.
Sihanoukville to Phnom Penh: 3:00 p.m.

Sihanoukville to Siem Reap: 5:35 p.m.
Siem Reap to Sihanoukville: 9:55 a.m.

At the time of writing, Bayon Air is flying daily trips between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville (with a triangle flight). It’s best to check and confirm, as they change their schedule regularly. I’d recommend not booking too far in advance or relying on them to connect to an international flight. With only one plane, if they have any mechanical failures the flights for the day will inevitably be cancelled.

Tickets can be booked with most travel agents in Cambodia, or tickets can be reserved on the Cambodia Bayon Airlines website, and then paid for within 24 hours at their office in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, or Sihanoukville. They will also, allegedly, send someone to you to pick up payment in either of those cities while they work on getting their payment processing set up.

Want to compare all of the airlines flying between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap? Read the Phnom Penh-Siem Reap flights blog post.

Cambodia Bayon Airlines

Phnom Penh International Airport, Phnom Penh
Borei Angkor Arcade Shopping Center, Road 6, Siem Reap
T: 023 231 555; 099 227 301
bayonairlines.com

Aura Thematic Hostel

Envoy Hostel

Feel at Home

One Stop Hostel

Packer Choices

Champion Ramen

Bus

Mini-bus

Taxi

Capitol Tours

Mekong Express

Golden Bayon Express

Mean Chey Express

Piccola Italia Da Luigi

The Italian House

Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro

Conclusion

Piccola Italia Da Luigi

The Italian House

Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro

Bbii Fresh

Juicy Mercy

Hub Juice and Smoothie Bar

The Juice House

Chom Ka (delivery only!)

Bbii Fresh

Juicy Mercy

Hub Juice and Smoothie Bar

The Juice House

Chom Ka

Artillery

Backyard Cafe

Gerbie’s

Kettlebell Cafe

Vego Salad Bar

Cambodia Bayon Airlines

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