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The best burger in Phnom Penh?

Posted on July 3, 2015 by Zita Long

Today’s question: Where is the best burger in Phnom Penh? In my previous post on the best pizza Phnom Penh, I demonstrated why such questions are ridiculous. Different styles, different ingredients, and personal preferences makes the word “best” subjective. In this post, you’ll see my reviews of four burgers by some of the top burger joints in Phnom Penh (according to online research and food fanatic friends).

The 225 gram sous-vide Deco burger.

Unlike most food critics, I won’t bother rating each burger on a scale of 1 to 10, a thumbs up, or even a “highly recommended.” Let’s chill, take it easy, and I’ll describe my dining experience as is. However, for the sake of improving your dining experience, I may throw in a few fast facts and suggestions.

As the head baker of Siem Reap Bäckerei, a microbakery specializing in artisanal sourdough breads, my senses naturally steers itself towards food that’s made with thought, heart, and soul. You know, food that has finesse, character, a personality, a unique profile on its own. So anything resembling fast food burgers (processed cheddar cheese, mass produced patties, etc.) I’ve eliminated from my reviews. That’s not to say I dislike fast food burgers. Sometimes when you’re lazy or hungover, you think to yourself, “I feel like crap. I deserve to eat crap and, gosh darnit, I’ll enjoy it!” Let’s get to it, shall we?

Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro

Oh man, what was I thinking? An Aussie burger at an American restaurant? Wait, what’s an Aussie burger, you ask? Well, you might think it has something to do with kangaroos or crocodiles, and it could, my understanding is that it’s a burger that contains the following ingredients: fried eggs, (grilled) pineapple rings, and pickled beets (beetroot), and possibly a few other things. Of course, this is debatable, but most Aussies agree that pickled beets are essential.

The Aussie Royale at Brooklyn Pizza: beetroot is not optional.

Back to Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro: I had the Aussie Royale, an Australian beef burger, bacon, grilled onions, pineapple, fried egg, pickled beets, and Sriracha mayo. You know when you have a long, intense craving for something — a dry spell, if you will — and then you finally have it and it feels like heaven or bliss? Yeah, that’s what I felt while chowing down on the Aussie Royale. Nearly seven years ago since I last visited the land down under and had a decent burger with beetroot.

Now here’s a gesture that I rarely encounter: the lettuce, pickles, and tomatoes were separated from the rest of the burger. Neat! Further, two other features caught my eye at a glimpse: there were no “chips” (for the Americans, fries). Instead, they were replaced with hand-cut “chips” (for the British, crisps). The other eye-catcher was their house-made burger buns. The sesame seeds were sparse and evenly distributed on the surface area of the bun. As a bread baker, I know this takes time and a few extra steps, purely for visual aesthetics. So I applaud you, Brooklyn, for putting that extra effort. Other available burgers at Brooklyn include the Royale Double Bacon Cheese, Mushroom Cheese, and Jalapeno Blue.

The damage: $7.95 (Aussie Royale, includes “chips” and condiments)

The Exchange

Who eats burgers at high-end restaurants at ten in the morning? Me, that’s who. I’ve got places to go and business to do. Luckily, you can do just that at The Exchange. Around noon, flocks of businessmen enter the restaurant, wearing leather shoes, sleek trousers, ties pinned to the collars of their buttoned-up dress shirts. What was I wearing? An oversized t-shirt, worn-out jeans, and floppy sandals. Gotta tell ya’, I liked the dirty looks I got from a few them.

The Exchange burger: for suits and schlubs alike.

On their menu, they have a small “sandwich” section, featuring one, single burger: the flame-grilled Black Angus Beef Burger. For those of you who don’t know, Black Angus is a common breed of cattle raised in several parts of the world, known for its finely marbled meat. This means that the fat is dispersed more evenly, which creates a more tender, juicy, and flavorful cut of meat. However, not all Angus beef is created equal.

Besides the beef, the Black Angus Beef Burger contained onion confit (onions cooked at a lower temp than deep frying, in fats or sugar syrup), Swiss cheese, tomatoes, and lettuce.
The burger also included chips—crispy exterior, soft interior, and well seasoned. Strange as it sounds, I really enjoyed the ketchup and mayo, served on a separate condiment plate. You know those cheap, Asian brands, where the ketchup is super sweet and the mayo funky? That’s not offered at The Exchange, thank goodness.

The Exchange is a members-only club, but the downstairs restaurant is open to all.

The servers here will ask how you want your burger cooked (medium, rare, etc). You may think that’s no big deal, but for a few reasons many restaurants in Cambodia don’t offer such choice. One reason; they’re tired of cringing or curling into a fetal position when a customer orders “well done.” Caution: there’s no air con at The Exchange, just opened windows, fresh breezes, and pedestal (stand) fans. During hot days, expect to get a lil’ sweaty, especially if you’re wearing a suit.

The Damage: $8.50 (Black Angus Beef Burger, includes chips and condiments)

Deco

In terms of elegance, Deco (also refers to an art style from the 1920s to early 1940s) is my favourite restaurant that serves burgers, amongst other things. I love the posters, I love the menu design, I love the liquor display, I love the furnishings. Each component contributes to the restaurant’s refined ambiance. More than that, I love the stark contrast of the manager with a baby strapped to his chest, overlooking the restaurant from the bar, and the servers with untucked dress shirts and baggy blue jeans. Hey, only in Cambodia!

The Deco lamb burger, served with feta, arugula, and harissa-ketchup.

Judging by how often the servers hustled back and forth from the kitchen and dining area, I’d say Deco is a popular lunch destination for Phnom Penh expats. Glancing around, I saw a mix of people adhering to a semi-formal dress code, apart from the manager, servers, and myself. The classy French folks, a group of gossiping women, men in suits, and a lone woman in a black dress, eyes glued to her iPhone.

Deco’s decor

With only seven items listed on their mains, my eyes locked on the lamb burger: crispy, pan-seared lamb, chorizo (Spanish pork sausage), feta cheese, raw onions, and arugula (rocket), between a sesame seed bun. Additionally, served with harissa-ketchup (hot chili pepper paste, with ketchup), remoulade (French mayo-based sauce), and cumin dusted triple-cooked chips. The fresh, herbaceous toppings counterbalanced the distinct taste of savoury lamb, spicy chorizo, and salty feta. In a few words, that’s how I’d describe the overall flavour of the burger.

Despite the fact that the restaurant was understaffed and exceeded its capacity (some walk-ins were forced to wait and sit in the lounge area), the servers did a top job tending to each customer. Friendly, too. So my suggestion: book in advance, indoors if you enjoy “Art Deco” and air con.

The damage: $13 (Deco Lamb Burger, includes chips and condiments)

Lone Pine Cafe

Opposite to my experience at Deco, dining at the Lone Pine Cafe was a fun, casual, American affair. Upon entry, I was greeted by Mr. Will, the owner and manager of the Lone Pine. We talked about the origins of his cafe, his clientele (mostly American expats, with a mix of Europeans, Aussies, and locals), his former burger cafe in New York, and southern American food ranging from gumbo to ribs, steaks, and burgers.

Lone Pine burger

Browsing through the menu, with an extensive list of burgers, I spent several minutes contemplating until I settled on the Babe’s Burger. Whoa, look at that! 200g/7oz beef, bacon, cheddar cheese, black beans, chili, ranch dressing, and onion rings. Never have I encountered such a wild and bizarre burger. I mean, how was I supposed to eat this… manifestation? Well, I succeeded. I picked it apart, happily gulfed it down, while working a sweat. (I can’t handle chili too well, but curiosity got the best of me.)

Lone Pine Cafe Phnom Penh

My pet peeves of the meal, however, were the fries and ketchup. The quality just wasn’t on par with the burger. On the upside, the servers, including Mr. Will, were attentive and cheery. Without asking, they filled my glass with water to the brim, time after time, seeing how I needed it.

The damage: $9 (The Babe’s Burger, includes fries and ketchup)

Conclusion

Whoever says burgers can’t be classy or playful are partypoopers. As seen in this post, burgers can be well executed, with solemnity and creativity. People with negative perceptions of burgers are entitled to their opinions, but we must remember: lobsters, salami, goulash, and brown bread were once considered food for the poor. They’ve evolved, making their way into higher class restaurants. So why can’t burgers?

My philosophy: welcome all (ethical) foods, whether you hate it or love it, and let cooks, chefs, and bakers push it over their limits, thus enriching the world with newer, possibly greater gastronomic experiences. Strictly keeping to traditions has its merits, but, think about it…where would we be today if we couldn’t adapt and create?

P.S. Feel free to post or message recommendations on the “best” burgers in PP. I know I missed out on several.

Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro

Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
20 Street 123, Toul Tom Pong, Phnom Penh
T: 089 925 926
facebook.com/brooklynbistro

The Exchange

Open daily, 10 a.m. to midnight
28 France Street (Street 47), Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh
T: 023 992 865
theexchange-cambodia.com

Deco

Open for lunch Tuesday through Saturday, 12 p.m. til 2 p.m., and for dinner Monday through Saturday, 5:30 p.m. til 10 p.m.
46 Street 352
T: 017 577 327
decophnompenh.com

Lone Pine Cafe

Open Monday through Saturday for lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and daily for dinner, 6 p.m. to 10 p.m.
14 Street 282, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 078 949 398; 095 949 398
lonepinecafe.com

Review: Dakida Korean Bar & Restaurant, Siem Reap

Posted on June 30, 2015 by Lina Goldberg

One of my favorite things about Siem Reap is the plethora of really good Korean food. So it was a sad moment for me when one of my previous favorite restaurants closed; always empty, the place served a few things, of which the highlight was jokbal, or braised pig’s trotters. There are no trotters on the menu at Dakida, but the owner has turned the place into a jumping Korean bar and restaurant that has quickly become one of my favorite places in town.

Dakida: a truly delicious Korean restaurant that thinks it’s a bar.

My love affair with Dakida started a few days after they opened, when they were still testing the menu. The owner explained that it’s not a traditional Korean restaurant, but rather, is a restaurant that is meant for drinking, so all of the food goes well with booze. What this means, in practice, is that everything on the menu is calorically rich, in a good way. I describe the place as a restaurant that thinks it’s a bar, and indeed, it’s only open for dinner, the lights are dimmed around 9:30 p.m. and the place stays open until 1 a.m.

Available for all of your late night barbecue needs.

The menu is small, but offers an array of delicious Korean dishes, of which the best value is easily the pork BBQ set, called samgyeopsal. The set costs $7 per person and is an all-you-can-eat porkfest, with and endless stream of fatty pork belly grilled at the table next to you, served with saamjang, a salty, delicious soybean paste, and lettuce and perilla leaves to wrap it all up in. The meal includes soup, a steamed egg casserole, spicy vegetable salad, several banchan, or small vegetable side dishes, fresh pickles, vegetable crudites to dip in the saamjang, and of course rice and kimchi.

The quality of every component of this meal is excellent, and outshines all of the other Korean restaurants in town who offer a similar but inferior samgyeopsal set. The most outrageous thing about this is that every plate on the table will be refilled until you ask, no, beg, them to stop. Quite frankly it feels criminal to only pay $7 for this much food, so I would highly recommend drinking a lot to help the poor guy turn a profit. If he doubled the price it would still be good value.

Did someone say all you can eat pork belly?

The rest of the menu is more typical bar food. One of my favorites is the giant bowl of fish cake soup, a savory broth filled with various types of fish cakes that are usually sold by street vendors in Korea. Apart from the samgyeopsal, the menu is of this ilk, fast food or snack food, including fried chicken, deep-fried shrimp, a Korean take on ramen, French fries and chicken and pork satay.

In the drinks department, Dakida carries local beer (Angkor) and imported Korean beer (Hite and Max, at the moment), and Korean soju, of which several empty bottles will be found on all of the raucous nearby tables packed with half-drunk Koreans. My favorite of the drinks is the makgeolli, a mysterious looking milky white potion that turns out to be a fermented beer-like drink made from rice. The best part about the makgeolli is that it is served not in glasses but in golden bowls. If that’s not a reason to try it, I don’t know what is.

No Korean meal is complete without a healthy dose of kimchi.

Dakida has quickly become my favorite Korean restaurant in town, but it’s also a great late-night stop if you’re looking for a snack or trying to avoid seeing anyone you know. The place is popular with the local Korean community, and on weekends, there are always a few tables filled with merrymakers until well after midnight. So head down to Dakida and let me know what you think in the comments section. Do you have any favorite Korean restaurants in town that I should try? (I’m obsessed, obviously).

Dakida

Open daily, 5 p.m. to 1 a.m.
Oum Khun Street, Siem Reap [map]
T: 017 640 411

Phnom Penh’s newest backpacker hostels

Posted on June 25, 2015 by Lina Goldberg

Once upon a time, it was easy to find (or avoid) the backpackers in Phnom Penh. They would congregate around cheap guesthouses with shared rooms and $0.50 beers. Ten years ago, their hub was the lakeside area at Boueng Kak and Riverside. Then it was Golden Street (Street 278 between 51 and 57).

New hostels are springing up all over Phnom Penh, and not in the places you’d expect.

Nowadays, there are a few more areas where backpacker-friendly businesses cluster — for example, on Street 172 to Street 136 on either side of Street 19 and towards the river, where you can find Happy 11 Backpackers, Lovely Jubbly Place, and the Happy House, but there are a few backpacker staples (Mad Monkey, Eighty8) further afield.

Lately, we’ve been seeing new hostels pop up in neighborhoods you might not expect. If you are looking for cheap accommodation in Phnom Penh, consider these five relatively recent additions to the hostel scene:

Aura Thematic Hostel

$10 and up per night

Aura Hostel: It’s brand-new and very affordable.

With the finishing touches on the construction just completed, this brand-spanking-new hostel behind the Royal Palace near the corner with Street 214 has a rooftop bar (Eluvium) and funky design touches in all of the rooms. The front desk told us that this month they are offering a soft-opening 50% discount on all of their rooms, which are normally $10 and up. The shared rooms are bright and have bathrooms inside, with IKEA-esque light fixtures and cool graphic accent wall murals. There is a bit of construction outside as new sewage pipes are being installed along the length of Street 19, but the rooms are not facing the street so it shouldn’t be too loud.

Aura Thematic Hostel
205A Street 19, Daun Penh, Phnom Penh
T: 023 986 211
info@aurahostel.com
aurahostel.com

Envoy Hostel

$8 and up per night

Envoy Hostel is a Phnom Penh mansion-turned-hostel with lots of room to spread out.

This mansion-turned-hostel is on a quiet street in BKK near the BKK Market. There is a big courtyard, which leads a comfortable common area on the ground floor and a computer and kitchen facilities (with toaster!). A big Khmer wooden staircase brings you upstairs, where the rooms are named after places in Cambodia, and are priced according to the number of beds; a four-bed room is $12 per person, while an eight-bed room is $8 per person.

Dorm life at Envoy Hostel.

Envoy Hostel has a very homey feel, with bean bag chairs and bay windows, and since it is in a more expat and residential part of town, it is both less known by the typical Phnom Penh backpacker, and closer to many of the great restaurants in BKK1.

The glamorous front of Envoy Hostel.

Envoy Hostel
32 Street 322, BKK1, Phnom Penh
T: 023 220 840
phnompenhbookings@envoyhostel.com
envoyhostel.com

Feel at Home

$7/night shared rooms and $25/night private rooms (except the Hobbit Room, which has a low ceiling and fan only, $18)

Feel at home at Phnom Penh’s Feel at Home Hostel in the Tonle Bassac neighborhood.

Feel at Home Hostel is right around the corner from the very popular Street 308 area, which is an eating and drinking hot spot in Phnom Penh at the moment. This neighborhood has everything from dumplings (Mama Wong’s), to pizza (Luigi’s Piccola D’Italia) and rotisserie chicken (Chicky’s) and Russian (Irina’s), with cheap beer (Red Bar) to $5 cocktails (Bassac Lane) to wash it down. This area is still residential, so bars close at 11 p.m.

The hostel stands out with its bright orange accents, but provides a convenient base for planning your trip around Cambodia and for visiting Phnom Penh. The staff is very friendly and the rooms are comfortable — tall guests please note that the “Hobbit Room” has quite low ceilings and no aircon (which explains its price being a bit lower than the other private rooms).

Feel at Home
17B Street 29, between Streets 294 and 308, Tonle Bassac, Phnom Penh
T: 023 223 849
reservations@feel-at-home-guesthouse.com
feel-at-home-guesthouse.com

One Stop Hostel

$7 and up per night

One Stop Hostel in Phnom Penh is a cut above the rest.

One Stop Hostel is a newcomer on the north end of Riverside, but the great staff, layout and amenities set it apart from the usual offerings. Enthusiastic staff are eager to practice their English with you, and are more than happy to help arrange transportation, laundry, etc. The common room is on the mezzanine level above reception, and looked like a cool place to hang out on cushions and read or chat. The bathrooms are outside of the rooms, but fully tiled and very clean. In the height of hot season, hair dryers might not seem like a useful appliance, but for more polished backpackers or during cold season we can them being really handy.

Dorm rooms at One Stop Hostel.

One Stop Hostel
85 Sisowath Quay, Riverside, Phnom Penh
T: 023 99 2822; 097 803 5379
info@onestophostel.com
www.onestophostel.com

Packer Choices

$5 per night and up

Down and dirty at Packers Choice Hostel in Phnom Penh.

A stripped down-style hostel very conveniently located behind the Royal Palace on Street 19 close to Art Street (Street 178). This was the most “broken in” hostel on our tour of new hostels: all of the rooms were occupied and many still had residents at noon on a weekday — with the accompanying overflowing backpacks and smells — which is why we don’t have photos of the rooms, but the beds were sturdy and there was sufficient locker space. The staff was helpful and everything seemed to be in working order; the female-only dorm has two bathrooms inside the room, while the coed dorm has its two bathrooms down the hall. The great location means that this hostel often gets booked up — we recommend reserving in advance if you plan to stay!

Common area at Packers Choice Hostel.

Packer Choices
187 Street 19, Royal Palace area, Phnom Penh
T 016 630 323
facebook.com/Packer-Choices-Hostel

Street ramen in Phnom Penh

Posted on June 22, 2015 by Lina Goldberg

It’s clear when you see the small kiosk on wheels that appears on the riverside every evening around dusk, that this is the culmination of someone’s dreams. It’s evident they are not in it for the money or the glory; whoever is behind Champion Japanese Ramen is in it for the love of ramen.

For the love of ramen: this street ramen kiosk parts on the riverside every night.

The small stand is much like a Japanese yatai, a petite mobile food stall popular in Fukuoka. This one seats just three people, and even that is a tight squeeze. The street stand is bedecked with the traditional red flags that proclaim “ramen!” in Japanese, and a hanging paper lamp. It’s spotless and simple, but at the same time adorable, probably because it’s so incongruous on Phnom Penh’s seedy riverside.

Supplies at Champion Ramen are limited. Every day they make a small amount of broth, and once they’ve served ten bowls of ramen, they pack up and go home. Bone broth is all the rage in New York and London, but ramen aficionados have long know the delight of a savory, creamy broth made from from long-simmered bones. The most common is tonkotsu ramen, made from pork bones. The broth at Champion Ramen is lighter than tonkotsu — it’s made from chicken bones — but it’s nearly as rich.

Champion ramen serves up a bowl with all of the traditional Japanese toppings.

Champion Ramen’s bowls are filled with ramen noodles, cooked al dente so there’s a little bit of resistance when you bite down. Half of a marinated soft-boiled egg is floated in the bowl, and a few thick slices of fatty chashu pork are added. The ramen is then adorned with finely sliced spring onions, and on most days, a type of marinated bamboo called menma. This is, without question, an authentic bowl of ramen, that eschews all of the strange toppings that you’ll sometimes find in what often passes for ramen in Cambodia — baby corn, bok choy, carrots, bean sprouts, and sweet corn, to name but a few.

It’s my firm belief that you’ll never get a good bowl of ramen at a regular Japanese restaurant with a full menu of different items. The best ramen is made by people who make nothing else. At the best ramen places in Japan, you’ll find little more on the menu than a few types of ramen and fried gyoza. So the fact that Champion Ramen serves literally nothing but ramen is a good sign. And their ramen is pretty damn good. Maybe not the best I’ve ever had in my life, but probably the best I’ve had in Phnom Penh. The riverside ambience doesn’t hurt.

Bowls of ramen cost just $3.50, and since they only serve 10 bowls per day, it seems unlikely that the business is very profitable. The very sweet counter guy told us that the owner is a Japanese architect who just loves ramen. If you love ramen, too, you should check out Champion.

Champion Ramen

Open daily, 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. (or until the ramen runs out)
Location varies, Phnom Penh riverside, usually across from La Croisette, Phnom Penh
T: 016 510 104
facebook.com/champion.pp.kh

How to get from Battambang to Phnom Penh (and vice-versa)

Posted on June 19, 2015 by Allison Jane Smith

Battambang is about 180 miles (290 kilometers) away from Phnom Penh, a distance that can take you anywhere between four to seven hours to travel, depending on traffic, flooding, and how you choose to go. Here are our picks for getting from Phnom Penh to Battambang and vice-versa.

Getting between Phnom Penh and Battambang is easier than you might think!

Bus

All the bus companies in Battambang are located a few blocks north of Psar Nath, making it easy enough to visit to book yourself, though guesthouses and hotels can book for you as well, although they will often add an extra couple bucks to the price.

Capitol Tours is the best option of the big buses. The ticket costs 24,000 riel ($6) and takes between six and seven hours (don’t be fooled by the website saying it will get you there in five). There will be frequent stops to let people on and off the bus and you’ll be treated to Cambodia karaoke videos for the duration of the ride.

Capitol Tours runs big buses between Phnom Penh to Battambang. Prepare for karaoke videos.

The Battambang bus station was recently moved just outside of town along National Road 5, but if you arrive at the Capitol office twenty minutes before your bus, they’ll take you to the station.

In Phnom Penh, the buses arrive and leave from Capitol Guesthouse near Orussey Market.

Capitol Tours schedule:
Battambang to Phnom Penh: 6:30 a.m., 7 a.m., 7:30 a.m., 8 a.m., 8:30 a.m., 9 a.m., 10 a.m., 11 a.m., 12 p.m., 1 p.m., 1:30 p.m., 2:30 p.m., 3:15 p.m. (Friday only), 4:15 p.m., 5:30 p.m.

Phnom Penh to Battambang: 7 a.m., 8 a.m., 9 a.m., 10:30 a.m., 11:30 a.m., 12:30 p.m., 1 p.m., 2:15 p.m., 2:45 p.m. 4 p.m. 5:30 p.m

Mini-bus

Mini-buses offer complimentary pick-up if you book at a guesthouse or a hotel in Battambang. They take between four to five hours to reach Phnom Penh, make one stop for a meal in Pursat, and occasionally another stop for a brief bathroom break or to refuel.

Golden Bayon Express Battambang Phnom Penh

By mini-bus is the fastest way to get from Phnom Penh to Battambang.

Regardless of which mini-bus you take, book a seat closer to the front of the bus rather than further back, as there are some rough spots on the highway where the ride in the back of the bus is quite bumpy.

As you enter Phnom Penh, there may be a few stops to let some Cambodian people off on the side of the road.

As you enter Battambang, there is usually one stop on the east side of the river before crossing the bridge to the west side, where the bus company offices are.

At $12, Mekong Express is the most expensive but also the most comfortable of the mini-bus options. It offers the most leg space, so tall people should consider Mekong Express if they often feel cramped by other options. Note that they will play karaoke videos for the duration of the trip.

In Phnom Penh, Mekong Express drops you off at its office close to Orussey Market, which is convenient for avoiding the worst of Phnom Penh’s traffic. If your guesthouse is somewhere close to the river, however, it will still be a bit of a tuk tuk ride to get there.

Golden Bayon Express charges $10 per person (sometimes you can go to a travel agent on Riverside in Phnom Penh and get that down to $9, but when booking in Battambang to go to Phnom Penh it always seems to be $10), and usually leaves on time.

Though not as spacious as Mekong Express mini-buses, their buses are clean and relatively comfortable, unless you are squished in the back row with three others (again, ask for a seat closer to the front). It also features free WiFi in their buses that sometimes works, but more often doesn’t.

The interior of a Golden Bayon mini-bus between Phnom Penh and Battambang.

Their office in Phnom Penh is close to Central Market, a bit more centrally located than Mekong Express’ office.

We’ve received a reader report that Mean Chey Express has recently upgraded to all new 16-seat mini-buses that are “consistently clean, on time efficient, includes cold water and doesn’t blast karaoke.” The trip takes less than 5 hours and costs $8 or $9, depending on how far in advance you book.

Mekong Express schedule:
Battambang to Phnom Penh: 7:30 a.m., 8:30 a.m., 9:30 a.m.,11 a.m. 2:30 p.m., 5 p.m.
Phnom Penh to Battambang: 5:30 a.m., 6:20 a.m., 7:30 a.m., 8:30 a.m., 11:30 a.m., 12:30 p.m. 1:30 p.m.

Golden Bayon schedule:
Battambang to Phnom Penh: 7:00 a.m., 8:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m., 2:30 p.m.
Phnom Penh to Battambang: 7:00 a.m., 8:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m., 2:30 p.m.

Mean Chey Express:
Battambang to Phnom Penh: 7:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m.
Phnom Penh to Battambang: 7:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m.

Taxi

A private taxi costs around $60 and takes about four hours. You can hire a private taxi through a hotel or guesthouse. Keep in mind the trunk may not be empty, as the driver may be transporting something to Phnom Penh. Taxis are usually Toyota Camrys that can seat four passengers, although it can be a tight squeeze.

Share taxis depart from northwest of Boeung Chhouk market, on National Road 5, and are usually $10 per seat. Note that the front seat beside the driver is considered two seats, so if you want to have that seat to yourself you’ll probably have to pay $20.

Capitol Tours

capitolkh.com
Ticket Offices: La Hte Street (at Street 103), Battambang [map]
T:053 953 040; 011 956 105; 012 991

14AEO Street 182, Phnom Penh [map]
T: 023 724 104; 023 217 627

Mekong Express

Book Mekong Express tickets online

Ticket offices: Corner of Road 3 and Street 111, just north of Psar Nhat, Battambang
T: 088 576 7668

Booking office outside Orussey Market, Phnom Penh [map]
T: 012 787 839; 098 833 399; 023 427 518

Golden Bayon Express

Book Golden Bayon tickets online

Ticket offices: Street 101, between La He St and Road 3, Battambang [map]
T: 070 968 966; 089 279 909

3Eo Street 51/126, Psar Thmei, Phnom Penh [map]
T: 023 966 968; 089 221 919; 010 968 966

Mean Chey Express

Ticket offices: Street 115, one block west of Psar Nath across from Holiday Hotel, Battambang [map]
T:095 992 111; 098 992 111

48 Street 289, near Psar Toul Kork, Toul Kork, Phnom Penh[map]
T: 011 992 111; 068 992 111

Cambodia scams: Fake monks

Posted on June 12, 2015 by Lina Goldberg

Been stopped by a monk asking for a donation? They’ve been spotted all over the world, so it’s no surprise that Cambodia hasn’t escaped those greedy pests, fake monks. Although you’ll find them from Melbourne to San Francisco, fake monks are especially insidious in Cambodia, a Buddhist country and home to thousands of real monks.

This is not a real monk. Do not give him money.

Tourists here delight in seeing monks, and a photo of a saffron-clad monk at the temples is a coveted holiday treasure. Because tourists are so keen to see real monks, it’s no wonder that the fake-monk scam has taken off in Cambodia. You’ll find faux monks anywhere in the country where there are tourists — Sihanoukville, Phnom Penh, and Siem Reap — and their goal is to rip off tourists.

How to spot a fake monk in Cambodia: Fake monks are usually Chinese and are often (but not always) dressed in brown or mustard-colored robes, unlike the bright orange garb of their authentic Khmer counterpart, and will wear pants underneath their robes. They are usually middle-aged, while most Cambodian monks are in their twenties or even younger. Fake monks don’t usually speak any Khmer and very little English, other than to demand more money. They often wear wooden prayer beads and offer people bracelets or amulets. Fake monks will often collect money well into the night, unlike real monks who only collect in the morning. Perhaps most importantly, it’s reported that they don’t seem to know anything about Buddhism.

What’s the scam? Fake monks ask for cash donations and are rarely satisfied with what they are offered. They sometimes have bracelets that they’ll tie around your wrist, or amulets that they will give you and then demand cash for. Tourists are told that monks in Cambodia must be treated with respect, and most responsible tourists try to do just that. So when a monk demands a donation, it can be very hard to say no. It’s being reported that the fake monks are asking for donations not just from tourists but from Cambodians, who, as Buddhists, have an even harder time saying no to a monk.

The real deal: Cambodian monks in Phnom Penh.

One of the precepts for Cambodian monks states that they must not handle money. Traditionally in Cambodia, Buddhists donate food or medicine as the monks go on their morning alms rounds. This tradition is eroding, though, as Cambodia becomes a more cash-centric society, and it’s common to see people giving a few hundred or a few thousand riel to visiting monks. However, taking cash is still a violation of the precepts for Cambodian monks, and you will never see a “real” monk begging or asking for money.

In a New York Times article about fake monks in Manhattan, Robert Buswell, director of the Center for Buddhist Studies at UCLA, said, “Aggressive begging is utterly unheard-of in the Buddhist tradition. The monks typically do not even acknowledge the offering.” In Cambodia, real monks stand quietly outside homes or businesses, holding their begging bowls, waiting to be noticed. They do not beg.

Say no to fake monks. While this scam isn’t the most harmful one around — it does nothing worse than relieve tourists of a little of their money — it puts real monks, and Cambodian Buddhism generally, in a bad light. Cambodian monks have enough of their own real-life dramas and scandals to contend with; they don’t need a bunch of fake Chinese monks sullying their reputation even further. Giving money to a faux monk and later finding out that you’ve been scammed is an unpleasant experience for a tourist, and people who give money to fake monks are less likely to give to real organizations that will actually help Cambodians. The experience would be even worse for a Cambodian, whose donation may represent a much bigger sacrifice. So say no to fake monks, and spread the word.

Wondering what fake monks look like? Artist John Weeks captured this video and has more great photos on his blog.

Have you been scammed by a fake monk? Tell us about your experience in the comments section.

Searching for the best pizza in Phnom Penh

Posted on June 5, 2015 by Zita Long

This is our first post from Siem Reap-based writer Zita Long. Zita is Canadian-Cambodian and the head baker of Siem Reap Bäckerei, a microbakery specializing in artisanal sourdough breads. Zita is interested in all things edible, and will be sharing his reviews of the best that Cambodia has to offer. In this post, he asks the eternal question, “Where can I find the best pizza in Phnom Penh?”

Last week I had the opportunity to spend a few days in Phnom Penh. I took advantage of that opportunity and — guided by online research and recommendations from food fanatic friends — visited some of the “best” pizza joints in Phnom Penh. Keep reading and you’ll see my scathing reviews. Nah, just playin’, I’d like to think my reviews are honest and fair. Additionally, I want to demonstrate why the opening question is utter bullpoop. A much better question is, “I prefer ‘this style of pizza’, where can I find it?” You’ll see what I mean.

Desperately seeking the best pizza in Phnom Penh.

Piccola Italia Da Luigi

Piccola Italia is a popular pizzeria amongst Phnom Penh expats, it seems. Basically, you have this small, cramped restaurant, on the edge of a narrow lane, packed with peeps either squeezing their way into the eatery, possibly seated next to strangers, or standing nearby to pick up their takeaway pizzas.

From what I hear and read, Piccola Italia makes the most authentic Italian pizza in Phnom Penh. Maybe, I don’t know. That’s a vague and bold claim, but what I do know is that Piccola Italia makes crispy, thin-crust pizzas. Brittle, crackly, with bulbous air pockets around the rim, that holds its shape when lifted (a pizza slice, that is). However, contrary to what some people may believe, I don’t think they’re wood-fired.

Does Piccola Pizza have the best pies in town?

I ordered the Dell’ennese, a pizza topped with mozzarella and pecorino cheese, cherry tomatoes, Italian sausage, oregano, and black olives. To be frank with you, I was disappointed. Not because the pizza tasted awful (it tasted alright, actually), but because I expected a tomato sauce based pizza. I skimmed the menu too quickly, so totally my fault! My only regret is that I’m only one person and couldn’t try a wider selection of their pizzas.

Also, I was shocked at how many expats (likely regulars) in Piccola Italia spoke Khmer to the local servers, with near perfect accents. (I’m a Canadian-Khmer, by the way.) There were several of them, a mix of Italians, French, and other non-Khmer nationalities! That’s friggin’ cool, man.

Arriving when the open is the best way to get a seat at Piccola. They are packed most nights!

Suggestions: Make reservations if dining with a group or even with one other person. Unless you enjoy crowds or have no other options, eat on weekdays at 5 p.m., just when the restaurant opens for dinner. Be patient with service.

The damage: $6.25 (Dell’ennese, Medium)

The Italian House

Phnom Penh, you have a hidden treasure! Shy of a year old, The Italian House is a quiet, cosy restaurant specializing in Neapolitan-style pizzas. What’s that, you say? No worries, I’ll explain.

The Italian House: A hidden gem with Neapolitan-style pizzas.

Most commercial ovens hit a max temp of 400C/750F. In such machinery, pizzas typically take a few minutes to cook (with an evenly browned crust). In comparison, Neapolitan-style pizzas bake at higher temperatures and cook in about 30 to 90 seconds. This is accomplished by using a scorching hot, domed (for better hot air circulation), wood/coal-fired, clay/brick oven. Other specifications for certified Neapolitan pizzas include using a specific type of Italian tomatoes for the sauce, using a certain type of Italian flour for the crust, etc.

By chance, I met Mr. Paolo, the owner and manager of The Italian House. A stern, quiet, and reserved dude. (For whatever reason, these are common traits in a lot of professional bakers, including myself.) Mr. Paolo is a 2-in-1 pro: an expert pizza maker AND brick oven builder from Italy. I’m telling you, this guy knows his schmitt. Seriously, that beautifully charred, dark golden brown crust, mottled with black spots, encircling a bed of tomato sauce with melted fresh mozzarella atop. I nearly peed myself from excitement when I first laid my eyes on those beauties, both the self-built wood-fired oven and pizza.

The expertly made wood-fired oven at The Italian House.

Having said that, Neapolitan-style pizzas are not for everybody. They can be described as floppy, droopy, or soggy, but that’s exactly the characteristics you want for this classic, traditional pizza (originating centuries ago in Naples, Italy). They’re eaten with forks and knives, served as a whole or unsliced, prepared in smaller portions, and rather simplistic in toppings, often with a higher ratio of tomato sauce to (mozzarella) cheese. I ordered the four seasons pizza, topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella, green olives, mushrooms, ham, and artichokes. As a fan of Neapolitan-style pizzas, I was more than satisfied!

Caution, though! The servers here are somewhat inattentive, but not purposely. They’re still learning, still trying to get their groove on, so please be patient with them.

The damage: $8.50 (Four Seasons, Normal)

Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro

After a quick glance at their pizzas, some of you may think, “That’s so American.” Others are saying, “Hell yeah!” It’s large, it’s substantial, and it’s drenched in cheesy, meaty goodness. Certainly can make a meal for two or three and quench each person’s appetite.

Like big pizzas? Head to Brooklyn Pizza for a seriously American-style pie.

Compared to pizzas at Piccola Italia and The Italian House, the crust at Brooklyn Pizza is more aerated and chewy. Not too firm and crispy, not too floppy and droopy. Just hard enough to pick up a slice by hand and soft enough to fold lengthwise (not sure if this pizza-folding habit is a New York thing) and shove into your mouth.

The owner of Brooklyn Pizza, Mr. Jay, is one heck of a friendly and rad guy. Going from one table to another, asking customers for their feedback, while greeting and saying farewell to familiar faces. I had a brief convo with Mr. Jay about his pizzas and learned two critical things. First, his pizzas are supposed to be a meal in itself. Check! Second, the crust is supposed to be thicker and breadier to withstand hefty toppings. Check!

You’ll also find burgers, cheesecakes, and a variety of beers including German and Belgian beers, and local craft beers from Cerevisia Craft Brewhouse at Brooklyn Pizza. Now that’s what I’m talkin’ about! A perfect pair, pizza and beer.

Head to Brooklyn Pizza to find pizza that will make you say “hell yeah!”

So what delicious monstrosity did I order? Actually, I didn’t order the pizza. My newly made baker friend from New York did. If I’m not mistaken, we had the “Stella,” a pizza topped with mozzarella and feta cheese, pepperoni, roasted garlic, spinach, and mushrooms. We both enjoyed it and had our fill, to say the least.

The damage: $10.95 (Stella, Large)

Conclusion

There’s no universal “best” pizza. However, if possible, eat-in for best results. Try different styles, different toppings, chase what you love and avoid what you hate. It’s as simple as that. Also, there’s no need to ridicule or put down other people’s taste preferences, unless that preference is roasted puppies stolen from neighbourly households. That’s just inconsiderate.

I know, I know! I missed out on this and that pizzeria and pizza shop. There were several on my list that I didn’t dine at, couldn’t due to time restrictions and a slow metabolism. However, please feel free to give recommendations in the comments below. When I revisit Phnom Penh, I’ll be sure to follow your suggestions. Thanks in advance!

Piccola Italia Da Luigi

36 Street 308, Tonle Bassac, Phnom Penh
T: 017 323 273

The Italian House

Open daily, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
2 Street 312 (end of Street 9), Tonle Bassac, Phnom Penh
T: 092 230 207

Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro

Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
20 Street 123, Toul Tom Pong, Phnom Penh
T: 089 925 926

How to get from Phnom Penh to Hanoi

Posted on May 27, 2015 by Lina Goldberg

Hanoi is an excellent weekend getaway from Phnom Penh, filled with lots to see and perhaps more importantly, lots to eat. The last time I went to Hanoi, I spent a week scratching my head trying to figure out how to actually get there. But now that I’ve figured out, I’m here to tell you the best ways to get from Phnom Penh to Hanoi.

A motobike with a giant basket of flowers on the back in Hanoi.

Hello Hanoi!

There are no direct flights between Phnom Penh and Hanoi. Vietnam Airlines flies the route with a 45-minute stop in Vientiane. The flight takes a little over three hours and costs start at $227 one way, or $355 for a round-trip ticket. Flights can often go up to as much as $600 return. To add insult to injury, they don’t serve alcohol on the flights. It’s possible that come high season they will start doing direct flights again, but right now there aren’t any scheduled.

Irritated by the price and schedule, I, like many intrepid expats, made my way to Hanoi with a mix of busing and flying, which can be done for less than $70 each way.

There are a number of buses that go between Phnom Penh and Ho Chi Minh City. The trip takes anywhere from six to eight hours depending on how things are at the border.

One of my favorites is the Giant Ibis bus from Phnom Penh to HCMC. They offer luxury buses with WiFi leaving every day at 8:00 a.m. Tickets cost $18 and include hotel pickup. You can book online (recommended) for an extra $1 and reserve a seat in advance.

I’ve also taken the less expensive use a travel agent than to go to the Vietnam Embassy in Phnom Penh.

Once you’re in HCMC, it’s a $6 or $7 taxi ride to the airport (take Mai Linh taxis if you don’t want to experience the joys of rigged Vietnamese taxi meters). There are a dozen daily flights that fly the HCMC-Hanoi route, priced as low as $40. Vietnam Airlines is the most reliable but most expensive and they charge extra for one way fares. A better option is Jetstar Vietnam. They’re cheap and while Vietnam expats like to gripe about them, I’ve had pretty good experiences with them.

There’s a newcomer on the scene, Vietjet Air. I’d strongly recommend against using them. Although they have 6 flights a day on this route, they usually combine them to fill planes, and only run a few per day. Both of my Vietjet Air flights were cancelled, and I was moved onto one of the later flights. On the way there, it was only an hour delay. But on the way back it was a 5 hour delay. Definitely not worth the $5 savings. With any of these airlines, though, expect some delays and don’t schedule tight transfers.

If you’re not the flying sort, there are buses from HCMC to Hanoi, but they’re long and unappealing. Consider instead taking the Reunification Express, a train that runs the length of Vietnam. The trip is long, it’s 2.5 days and best to break it up with stops along the way. But you’ll see some of the most gorgeous countryside in Vietnam as you make your way up the country.

Another option for those just looking for cheaper flights is the new Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City route on Qatar Airways that’s priced at $215 return. Combine this with Jetstar and you can get to Hanoi for around $315.

Finally, another option is to get yourself to Siem Reap by bus, taxi, or plane, and fly Vietnam Airlines from there. They’ve got a direct flight from Siem Reap to Hanoi that usually starts at $340 return or $200 one way. Although this way is not always the cheapest, the flights with Cambodia Angkor Air line up well and allow for a long weekend in Hanoi. Happy Hanoi-ing!

Bus tickets purchased through links in this post to read more here.

Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro

The Exchange

Deco

Lone Pine Cafe

Conclusion

Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro

The Exchange

Deco

Lone Pine Cafe

Dakida

Aura Thematic Hostel

Envoy Hostel

Feel at Home

One Stop Hostel

Packer Choices

Champion Ramen

Bus

Mini-bus

Taxi

Capitol Tours

Mekong Express

Golden Bayon Express

Mean Chey Express

Piccola Italia Da Luigi

The Italian House

Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro

Conclusion

Piccola Italia Da Luigi

The Italian House

Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro

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