How to get from Bangkok to Siem Reap

If you’re coming from Bangkok to Siem Reap it’s worth doing your homework. There are several ways to travel from Bangkok to Siem Reap in 2022, and most fall into one of two categories: “fast and expensive” or “cheap and annoying.” Flying is fast and expensive and going overland is cheap and time-consuming (but offers considerable fodder for amusement). In this post, I’ll cover the best ways to get from Bangkok to Siem Reap as well as what you need to know about visas and the border.

At a glance…Bangkok to Siem Reap

Get from Bangkok to Siem Reap on the Giant Ibis direct bus.

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How to get from Siem Reap to Bangkok

There are lots of ways to get from Cambodia to Thailand, and it all depends on how much time, money, and patience you have. In this post, I’ll cover the best ways to get from Siem Reap to Bangkok in 2022 whether you travel by plane, direct bus, mini-bus, or taxi. Flying is always the most convenient, but going overland is less expensive and more of an adventure!
If you’re heading the other direction, how to get from Bangkok to Siem Reap.

At a glance…Siem Reap to Bangkok

The Giant Ibis direct bus from Bangkok to Siem Reap (and vice versa)

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WIG: Connecting women in Phnom Penh

So you’ve moved to Cambodia, you want to meet other women and make some friends, and maybe find a way of giving something back to your new home. Perhaps you’re starting up a business and hope to learn from the experience of other business owners. If this sounds like you, there’s a group of people in Phnom Penh you need to meet — and you can do so every Wednesday morning over coffee!

With good company, good causes – and good coffee! Photo courtesy of WIG.

The Women’s International Group, aka WIG, was set up in 1994 as a social and charitable circle for the capital’s female expats who wanted to connect with other, like-minded individuals, and to make a difference in Cambodia. Since then the group has evolved to reflect the interests and aspirations of its diverse and fluctuating membership that increasingly includes Cambodian women many of whom have careers, families, and juggle busy lives. As well as a means of enjoying good company and supporting good causes country-wide, it provides a valuable networking opportunity for women in business. Happily, the three frequently work hand in hand, especially as many of the small businesses owned by members are social enterprises. Continue reading

Cambodia drops all Covid-19 entry requirements

As of July, 2022, Cambodia has dropped Covid-19 vaccination and quarantine requirements for travelers (with one caveat). There are still quarantine requirements for unvaccinated travelers who test positive on arrival, although they have been relaxed from previous quarantine requirements. Most land borders have now been re-opened.

Vaccinated travelers

Those who are fully vaccinated (two doses of a vaccine, or one dose of a single-dose vaccine) do not need to take a Covid-19 test on arrival. You will need to present proof of Covid vaccination, in the form of a card of certificate on arrival. Continue reading

New Phnom Penh hotspots for live music

There’s live music every night of the week in the capital when you know where to look (and most of it’s still free)

Phnom Penh’s music scene has experienced quite a shake up since I last wrote on the subject. Pandemic-induced restrictions saw venues closing their doors or no longer able to justify the cost of putting bands on, so it’s good to see that the capital’s many accomplished music makers are back in action with a roster of new places to play and audiences eager for some great gigs.

Geography of the Moon go acoustic at The Vine.

A new destination to know is the vibrant enclave of bars and eateries taking shape in the Wat Botum neighborhood not far from the Royal Palace, with regular live music as a big part of the draw. Popular cocktail and burger joint (and hairdresser!) The Vine has moved from the less salubrious Street 172 to cool new premises on Street 244 next door to Villa Grange. This friendly hangout hosts regular gigs in the bar on Wednesdays and early evening acoustic Sunday Sessions in the small courtyard out front. Continue reading

The old Kep is dead. Long live new Kep?

Sleepy Kep. Kep Sur Mer. The quiet little town on Cambodia’s coast famous for its crab market, accessible national park, and the graffitied shells of luxury 1960s villas destroyed by the Khmer Rouge. Kep, the coastal alternative to nearby Kampot, with fewer restaurants but better-value accommodation set among trees and colorful bougainvillea. The Kep of breath-taking sunsets at The Sailing Club, with the sea breeze and lapping waves a constant reminder that one isn’t in Phnom Penh anymore.

Luxury at Kep’s Villa Des Palmes is just like the old days.

That Kep is now largely gone and is being rapidly replaced by a new Kep; less tailored to expats and Western visitors and more accessible to local tourists, a Kep that in time might be just as charming as the previous iteration.

Everywhere changes, and change can often be good, offering improvements in standing of living and employment, and may even improve environmental conditions such as clean water or waste management. However, rapid change can be scary, and the lack of transparency in Kep about plans, intentions, and environmental impact doesn’t inspire confidence.

And the speed at which Kep is changing is truly breakneck. Continue reading

The groove is in the art at Phnom Penh galleries

The capital’s contemporary art scene is on a roll — and it’s a far cry from apsaras and sunrise over Angkor Wat

As the city’s cultural venues burst into post-pandemic life, a spate of new gallery openings and a burgeoning number of innovative multi-arts spaces are inspiring, promoting, and supporting creativity in Phnom Penh like never before.

The upmarket Gallerist, Phnom Penh.

In a city that still, disappointingly, lacks any national or state art galleries, it’s left to independent galleries and private institutions to grandstand a growing array of talent. The most exclusive newcomer to the fold — a sign of the increasingly sophisticated nature of the Phnom Penh arts scene — is The Gallerist on Street 240. It’s owned by the French artist known as Stan, a relative newcomer to the art scene, who is making a mark with his large, heavily-textured abstracts. Whether you’re buying or just browsing, it’s a classy space to view pieces by some of the most collectible local and foreign artists at work in the country. Continue reading

Bar-hopping Phnom Penh’s Bassac Quarter

After a year or so in the doldrums Phnom Penh bars are back in business, and nowhere more so than in the laneways around Street 308 between Norodom and Sothearos Boulevards not far from the Independence Monument. Not only has this idiosyncratic nightlife destination regained its mojo, it’s even acquired a new name. Welcome to the Bassac Quarter, one of the capital’s best-loved after-dark hotspots where punters are genuinely spoilt for choice when it comes to beer, cocktails and a bite to eat.

The bright lights of Bassac Lane

While it’s been hard to watch business owners struggle — and sometimes, sadly, fail — to maintain their livelihoods during the Covid-enforced closures, it’s reassuring to see so many bouncing back, and a raft of new bars and eateries opening in readiness for a post-pandemic influx of expats and visitors. The neighborhood comes alive after five with happy hours at many venues. At the latest count it’s home to some thirty (really!) mostly small drinking and eating establishments, in styles that range from sleek to dive, all sardined into what is little more than one, lively block. Continue reading