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Expat Q&A: Help! I can’t leave Cambodia

Posted on February 11, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they wish they had known when they first moved to Cambodia that they know now.

This week we talk to Kristin O’Connell, an Australian with a corporate background who moved to Cambodia to work in the development sector. Kristin had never ventured out of Brisbane before moving to Phnom Penh three years ago.

Kristin enjoying one of her favorite things about Phnom Penh: the pools. Photo by Lauren Crothers.

MTC: Kristin, what do you know now that you wish you had known when you first moved to Cambodia?

KO’C: “For a long time prior to my move to Cambodia I had been following the country’s news from Australia. Because I had never been, my decision to apply for a 12-month position conjured visions of wooden houses, periods of boredom and limited cuisine options.

Dated blog posts coupled with the complaints of disgruntled travellers led to these and many other misconceptions.

Immediately on arrival almost all my expectations of life in Cambodia were turned on their head. Within a week I had fallen in love with my adopted city and knew that the initial commitment of 1 year was not going to be long enough.

If you are considering a move to Cambodia as an expat in 2013 some of your experiences will be the same same as mine, however in this rapidly changing country many will be different. With so much time having passed, I’ll try to talk about the things that me-of-the-past would like to know if moving to Cambodia today.

Things I wish I’d known about “development”

NGOs are not always what they appear. Development is a large and profitable sector with many seeking to capitalise on the flood of foreign aid. Look carefully into the background and practices of any organisation you plan to work with or support.

Not all Cambodians need or seek charity and generally the people best equipped to support those who do are Cambodian themselves. Broadly speaking, Cambodians are enthusiastic and entrepreneurial. Expect to feel more admiration than pity.

Not every woman in Cambodia has had to work as a prostitute and not all those employed as such necessarily want a change in circumstances. Try not to be condescending and throw out any preconceived ideas before you arrive.

Things I wish I’d known about workplace culture

In starting a new job, expect to obtain a second family. What may feel like invasions of privacy to a foreigner are very normal interactions between Cambodian co-workers. If you are single, expect to be offered marriage prospects from among your colleagues’ relatives more than once.

Respect for the hierarchy is important. Raise concerns and differences of opinion in private wherever possible. Nobody wants to see a workmate without a face.

You will be told it will be done. It will not be done. You will be told it is done already. It is not done already.

Things I wish I’d known about everyday living

Phnom Penh doesn’t have so many wooden stilt houses. Seriously, trying to live like a martyr is tough here. As an expat, the challenge of adjusting to life in Cambodia is not one of enduring daily hardship and dire poverty, although both exist here. The perfect house or apartment is out there although persistence may be required.

The capital and the provinces are like two separate countries. When outside Phnom Penh and tourist spots it is easy to see the source of the stereotypes that appear in the Western media. Try not to romanticise poverty.

There is no need to import bed sheets and electrical appliances from far flung corners of the globe. Just go to Central Market.

Things I wish I’d known about the social scene

With its complex and brutal history, Cambodia attracts a high number of interesting and entertaining expats. In addition to Cambodian friends I have met some of the most important people in my life here. While leaving friends at home behind is difficult there is little chance you will feel isolated once here.

There are many fantastic bars and more than enough to suit every taste. Alcohol is almost insanely cheap. Do not move here if looking to overcome alcoholism.

Cambodia is easy to love and even easier to return to. Living in such a transient city I have experienced a far greater number of goodbyes than one would wish for. The silver lining is what I like to call the ‘boomerang effect’ – most people whose departure is mourned simply can’t stay away for too long.

Cambodia is not a hardship posting. Don’t expect limited access to electricity, Internet or Reese’s Pieces. Those aiming to nobly sacrifice a privileged lifestyle for the good of humanity may need to look a little further.”

The funeral of King Father Norodom Sihanouk

Posted on February 8, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

All eyes in Phnom Penh have been on the Royal Palace this week. Journalist Faine Greenwood has captured some lovely shots from the funeral of King Father Norodom Sihanouk and kindly shared them with Move to Cambodia.

Lazily learning the Khmer language

Posted on February 7, 2013 by Marissa Carruthers

Marissa Carruthers is a freelance journalist who has left behind life in the UK for the sun and smiles of Cambodia. In her weekly column, she will be sharing the ups and downs of settling into life in Phnom Penh as an expat.

I think it’s fair to say that during my first three months in Cambodia I’ve become lazy when it comes to learning the language.

A collection of Khmer language flashcards.

Learning the Khmer language: not exactly child’s play.

I’d left the UK with a vision of being able to at least hold a basic conversation in Khmer after a few months but I’m ashamed to say I can barely ask a tuk tuk driver to turn right. I remember being shocked when I first arrived at the number of expats I met who said they don’t speak Khmer – in fact, now I’m surprised when I meet one who’s fluent – but I quickly learnt that living in Phnom Penh it’s easy to slip into a world where you can get around on English alone, and that’s exactly what I did.

Straight away, I picked up most of the essentials needed to get around but that was where my learning halted. I flirted with a few more words when some of the workers in my apartment block quizzed me on the English for certain things. They’d willingly return the favour by telling me in Khmer what a chopstick or helmet or whatever other object it is they wanted to know is but I’d struggle to get my mouth around the sounds and just couldn’t keep it in my head. The next day I’d bump into them outside and they’d yell over: “Chopstick. Now you in Khmer,” only to be met by a sheepish grin because I’d forgotten the second I was told.

I tried to learn a few more phrases but battled with the pronunciation and despite being greeted with a slightly surprised form of delight from a local when I tried to say something in Khmer, my clumsiness with the words eventually led to an embarrassment to even try.

Then a couple of weeks ago, lost in an area where no-one spoke English outside of my comfort zone where I can drink in an English coffee shop, eat an English breakfast and don’t have to learn the local language, I burst the bubble I’d been living in and realised how ridiculous and rude it was of me not to be able to ask for directions in a country that I’ve been living in for three months.

As soon as I got home, I enrolled in a Khmer class round the corner from where I live and while I’ve only had one lesson so far I’ve pushed myself to get over my embarrassment to try and practice whenever I can – and guess what, so far, in true Cambodian style, everyone has been more than happy to help. It may well take me a while to become anything close to fluent but I’m definitely glad to be trying.

Where to eat in Siem Reap

Posted on February 5, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

Expats perpetually suffer from “grass is greener” syndrome — those based in Siem Reap jealously keep tabs on the big city restaurant offerings found in Cambodia’s capital, but for this Phnom Penh expat, Siem Reap had more than enough to offer on a recent visit.

Because of Siem Reap’s massive tourist traffic, the dining scene is positively international, offering excellent French, Korean, Japanese and Italian choices, in addition to tasty Cambodian fare. No matter what your preference or budget is, Siem Reap has something delicious for dinner.

The best pizza pies in Siem Reap at Il Forno in the Old Market.

Off of Pub Street, Il Forno is dishing up some of the best pizza in Cambodia. Their speciality are perfect thin-crust Neapolitan wood-fired pizzas, but their homemade pasta dishes are also wonderful. If you have a few people, try their seafood platter with tuna and sea bass carpaccio and prawns to share.

Art or food? Make the decision yourself at Ababus in Siem Reap.

Serving French and Asian fusion dishes, Abacus offer one of Siem Reap’s tastiest fine-dining experiences. Those in the know rave about their lamb leg with olive sauce and the pan-fried beef tenderloin, but their seafood offerings are just as good–try the salmon on crabmeat bolognaise.

The interior of Siem Reap's Cuisine Wat Damnak

Treat yourself to a feast at Siem Reap’s Cuisine Wat Damnak.

Cuisine Wat Damnak is arguably the town’s best restaurant, with chef Joannès Rivière offering a modern interpretation of traditional Cambodian fare, in two delicious weekly set menus, with five courses for $19 and six courses for $26.

Siem Reap’s large Korean and Japanese expat population means you can find better offerings of these cuisines in town. Far down airport road is Happy Restaurant, one of the best Korean restaurants I’ve tried in Cambodia; their spicy pork bone soup is sublime. Cheap and cheerful Dae Bak is closer to town and has a barbecued pork set meal for $5 that will leave even the most ravenous visitor sated. Japanese restaurant Basho has a homestyle Japanese menu plus a few maki offerings (but if you’re looking for sushi and sashimi, head to Takezono at Sokha Angkor Resort for what locals claim is the be town’s best).

A packed table at Bopha Leak Khluon Restaurant in Siem Reap

For authentic Khmer fare, try Bopha Leak Khluon Restaurant in Siem Reap.

You’ll find the best Khmer food in town outside of the Old Market area, but still within walking distance. On Sivutha Boulevard there are many small Cambodian eateries. You can enjoy a delicious feast at Chanrea Dom Makara for just a few bucks per person. Try the prahok ktih, where the flavours of the pungent fish are tempered by rich coconut milk and fatty minced pork. Served with raw vegetables and tiny, bitter eggplants, this is prahok worth tasting. For slightly more upscale Khmer food, try Bopha Leak Khluon Restaurant. Their barbecued beef skewers are addictive, and the eggplant stuffed with pork and shrimp is divine. Study up on your Khmer before you go, though, they don’t have an English menu.

If you’re in the mood for more Western fare, La Boulangerie offers French-style breakfasts and quiches at reasonable prices. Tigre de Papier may sound like an entirely French affair, but their chicken shawarma is delicious–the perfect hangover-buster. Along the river, Rosy Guesthouse offers a full menu of Western dishes, including a plump, juicy burger with caramelized onions and cheese. Served with homemade pickles, coleslaw and chips, budget some extra time to finish the heaping plate.

Il Forno, The Lane, T: 078 208 174,
Abacus Garden Restaurant, Airport Road, T: 012 644 286
Cuisine Wat Damnak, Behind Wat Damnak Pagoda, T: 063 965 491
Happy Restaurant Korean Food, Airport Road
Dae Bak Restaurant, Sivutha Blvd, T: 092 355 811
Basho, Oum Khum Street
Takezono, Sokha Angkor Resort, Sivutha Blvd, T: 063 969 999
Chanrea Dom Makara, Sivutha Blvd, T: 012 925 530
Bopha Leak Khluon Restaurant, Samdech Tech Vong Street, T: 012 630 570
La Boulangerie, Street 7, T: 063 690 1501
Tigre de Papier, Pub Street, T: 012 265 811
Rosy Guesthouse, Achar Sva Street, T: 063 965 059

Italian on the Islands

Posted on January 30, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

Note: This post is out of date! La Mami has now become Da Matti? (but they still have homemade gnocchi and ravioli, traditional Italian pastas, and interesting cocktails). Read our full review of Da Matti? here.

Also, Beatrice and Fabrizio have left Koh Rong and Pura Vida is now Cambodian-owned, but still serving Italian food.

—

The Cambodian islands are full of surprises, not least of which is their curious emergence as a hotbed of Italian cuisine. While it’s true that you’ll find spag bol on the menu of every beachside shack on Serendipity, the results are uniformly disappointing. But venture a little further, to the islands of Koh Rong or Koh ta Kiev, and you’ll find some of the country’s best Italian food.

A stunning view of Long Set Beach on Koh Rong

The view from Pura Vida on Koh Rong.

Beatrice Falchini and Fabrizio Polci fell in love with Koh Rong when they first visited two years ago, and they’ve been back repeatedly. In early 2012 they opened Pura Vida, a small operation with a couple of bungalows and a restaurant on one of the island’s most picturesque beaches where developers are slated to build a luxury resort. “I said to Fabrizio, we need to go now,” Falchini said, explaining why they made the move from Rome to an undeveloped island off Cambodia’s coast. “We don’t know how much longer it will last. When they start to build the resort – when it will be like all the other islands in the world – we can go back to Italy.”

Pasta lunch at Pura Vida on Cambodia’s Koh Rong.

Before coming to Cambodia, Falchini worked as a caterer in Italy and Polci learned to cook from his grandmother. At Pura Vida, the couple dishes up Roman pasta specialities such as amatriciana and carbonara made with ingredients that you wouldn’t expect to find on an island, including imported pasta, extra-virgin Italian olive oil and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. For dessert they offer Italian coffee and a lovely mango cake that they can only make in the evenings, when they have four short hours of electricity for their oven. At around $7 their pasta dishes are more expensive than what you might find at the backpacker joints, but the food is delicious and astoundingly authentic. “We cook like home,” Falchini explains. “If you come to my home in Rome, we will cook the same.”

Located directly on Koh Rong’s pier, La Mami serves up real Italian food.

On Koh Rong’s Southwestern pier, mother-and-son team Laura Bellinazzi and Matteo Grignani recently opened La Mami restaurant and guesthouse, where they serve up Italian food, including an excellent $3 tomato bruschetta and an array of pasta dishes, from pesto to panna prosciutto piselli, for between $4 and $5.50. Perched on the jetty with the waves gently lapping below, it’s the perfect spot for an evening sundowner, whether a glass of wine or Campari and soda.

Matteo Grignani, one of the (Italian) brains behind La Mami on Koh Rong.

Originally from Milan, 20-year-old Grignani has competed in cooking competitions in Hungary, where the family has been running an agritourism guesthouse for many years. There, in addition to making their own all-natural prosciutto, salami, vinegars and spirits, they offer Italian cooking classes. And while they’ve decided to make the move from Hungary to Cambodia, they also serve a few Hungarian dishes — including several varieties of goulash — at La Mami as well.

A light snack at Ten103 Treehouse Bay on Koh ta Kiev, all homemade and all delicious.

Closer to shore on Koh ta Kiev, Ten103 Treehouse Bay offers some of the tastiest island food in Cambodia. The place is run by American chef Joel Fry, who spent five years cooking in Italy, including at a Michelin-starred restaurant. Fluent in Italian, Fry makes pasta from scratch and bakes his own bread, pastries, and pizzas in a wood-fired oven in the middle of the jungle, all without the benefit of electricity or running water.And though it might seem absurd that this gourmet cuisine is being prepared on the middle of a small, primitive island controlled by the Cambodian military, Fry has managed to make it work, serving up some of the most interesting, and delicious, dishes in the country.

Each evening he offers a daily special — when I visited it was hand-made tagliatelle pasta in a puttanesca white fish sauce with tomatoes, white wine, olives and capers, served with salad and fresh bread for $8. “People stay longer than they intend and I think it’s because of the food,” Fry said. They’ve been travelling for a long time, eating rice, and they want a taste of home.”

Pura Vida, Long Set Beach, Koh Rong
La Mami, Southwest pier, Koh Rong Closed
Ten103 Treehouse Bay, Koh ta Kiev; Tel: 097943 7587; ten103cambodia.com

Expat Q&A: Knowing less and less about more and more

Posted on January 29, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

In this series we talk to Cambodia expats about what they wish they had known when they first moved to Cambodia that they know now.

This week we hear from a relatively new expat, American Kelly Snook-Fehr, who has been living in Phnom Penh for five months. She originally came to Cambodia to volunteer and decided to extend her stay. She’s now teaching kindergarten in Toul Kork.

Kelly enjoying some Cambodia beach time.

MTC: Kelly, what do you know now that you wish you had known when you first moved to Cambodia?

KSF: “First off, I wish I known how much I was going to love it here, because then I would have packed to move instead of packing for a holiday. I wish I know I was going to need my “going out” clothes as well as trekking and lounging clothes. There are too many social events that I have been way under dressed for and the markets can be touch and go with sizes and styles. Also, shoes larger than size 8 are hard to find; I miss my heels.

I wish I had been less shy about making Khmer friends just because my Khmer is shit. They are some of the best friends you can have, even with a language barrier. And if you are ever stuck out late at night, or just in some unknown district it is good have someone to call for help. I wish I had been less intimidated by their open, friendly ways, like inviting me to their weddings when I barely know them. I wish I had know that when they do invite you to a wedding (which is an all day affair) you really only have to go the evening portion, that’s the party. But if you really want to see the ceremony in the morning be prepared to be the only white person there, and don’t arrive at 6 a.m. no matter what they tell you! Get there about 8 or 9 a.m., eat the food, hang out in the back and count the outfits.

I wish I had known not to panic about making friends in Cambodia, there are tons of social events to meet people at and most expats are looking for people to hang out with as well, eventually you will find your niche. I wish I had joined a running or some sort of sport club sooner after arriving to keep in shape, and be more social. On that note, don’t get upset when everyone calls you big, chances are they just mean “you look like you did not go without food for five years,” if they are actually calling you fat then they are just jerks (you know who you are Russian market sales ladies). I wish I had immediately started to ride a push bike it saves so much money, and is a great way to learn your way around the city. But buy a helmet!

I wish I had known to always have a map with Khmer as well as English, and a flashlight handy. Getting lost happens in a new city, many of the moto drivers and tuk tuks do not know street numbers or names (and many are illiterate, but just in case have a Khmer map) so if you have a map with you it’ll be easier to figure out where you are headed. Electricity and outside lighting are not guaranteed so carry a flashlight at night, the roads here are uneven and sometimes there are unmarked holes that you can fall into if you are not careful, on a bike or too drunk.

I wish I had known getting ripped off is all in how you handle it; it will happen no matter where you live, so just find a coping skill. I wish I had known that despite the proximity to my work, Toul Kork is too far away from everything to be a decent place to live. Also, I wish I had opted for roommates instead of living by myself; it makes it easier to meet people.

I wish I hadn’t been so intimidated by the markets, and had haggled more. I wish I had started by asking my Khmer friends about appropriate prices and using that as a base. And I wish had known just because prices change does not mean you are getting ripped off, sometimes the market value fluctuates 1,000 reil or so.

I wish I had researched the down side of “voluntourism” in Cambodia, and learned how harmful it can be and what volunteer work that I can help with since I am here. I wish I had understood (and wish to understand) more about how the governments corruption affects the people, particularly in the provinces. Oh and I wish I had saved up and bought decent expat insurance, instead of travel insurance.

Being here has been like knowing less and less about more and more.”

Steering clear of motos

Posted on January 24, 2013 by Marissa Carruthers

Marissa Carruthers is a freelance journalist who left behind life in the UK for the sun and smiles of Cambodia. In her column, she shares the ups and downs of settling into life in Phnom Penh as a new expat.

No motos for Marissa!

I toyed with the idea of caving into my fear and getting a moto the other day.

It felt like I was pretty much the only person in Phnom Penh who doesn’t have one and I was getting tired of relying on tuk tuks who, unless you stick to the same few, are constantly trying to rip you off.

I’d mastered crossing the road and I’d kind of come to understand the flow of traffic in that, well, it just flows. Despite the heavy buzz of vehicles at every junction and crossroad, motos, cars, tuk tuks and people weave in and out of each other calmly and it works seamlessly – most of the time.

It seemed to be simple: scrap all the road rules my driving instructor had patiently taught me over several gruelling months many years ago back home, drive slowly at junctions, beep a bit, be confident and learn to weave those wheels.

So during a trip to sleepy Kampot I decided to test drive the much-quieter roads on a pushbike. Cycling along the river front was a breeze – okay, so only one moto went by but I was feeling good – and then I hit the first junction and froze. The traffic wasn’t stopping and as trucks roared along covering me in dust I didn’t feel confident pushing forward the flimsy frame of my bike.

I eventually managed to cross and beefed up my battered confidence along another stretch of quiet road. Settling into the saddle, I started to enjoy myself and then suddenly out of nowhere I heard the screeching of tyres and saw a man on a moped hurtling straight for me from a side road.

I panicked and swung my bike out just as a car was about to pass me. Thankfully, it swerved in time and there was nothing coming the other way, but as the man on the moped came to a halt just inches from me and started apologising profusely, I knew there was no way I was ready to take on the mean streets of Phnom Penh.

Call me a wimp but to be quite frank, the roads here petrify me. Unlike the UK’s orderly traffic that’s controlled by stringent signs, traffic lights, road markings, roundabouts and, at times too many, rules, here anything – and I mean anything – seems to go.

And any small part of me that still yearned for a moto was dashed the other night when my tuk tuk was driving along Sihanouk Boulevard and we came across a crowd of people huddled around the still body of a man lying next to a crumpled moto; his head surrounded in a pool of blood – a stark reminder of how dangerous and deadly they can be.

My mind is made up. I’m definitely steering clear of motos.

Eating street food in Cambodia

Posted on January 23, 2013 by Lina Goldberg

Looking to try street food in Cambodia? Check out our new Phnom Penh Food Tours and Siem Reap Food Tours and spend a morning chowing down on the street, at the market, and in small local restaurants.

Every afternoon Cambodian students sit down to enjoy some of their country’s most delicious dishes: its street food. But for expats this is one of the least savored facets of Cambodia’s generally under-appreciated cuisine.

The perfect breakfast, a steaming bowl of Cambodia’s noodle soup, kuy teav.

Many expats believe that the Kingdom’s roadside delicacies consist of little more more than deep-fried tarantulas and stir-fried crickets. Concerns about hygiene also keep some foreigners from indulging.

But the best street food isn’t about bugs–either the edible or intestinal kind–and it’s too good to miss. You just need to choose wisely. The safest street foods are those that are cooked in front of you and served hot, which kills off bacteria. And despite what you may have heard, the ice in Cambodia is generally safe to consume. “Street food has two advantages over food cooked in restaurants: transparency and immediacy. When you eat on the street nothing is hidden; you can judge whether or not the person handling your food, the surface on which it’s prepped and the plate on which it will be served is clean,” said food journalist Robyn Eckhardt, who has written extensively about street food in Asia and Turkey for international publications. “And because the time from stall to table is just seconds, you can be confident that your food hasn’t languished long enough to collect the odd bacteria.”

Here are some of the safest and tastiest dishes that you’ll find on the streets of Cambodia. Although they are usually sold at street-side stands and by roving vendors, you’ll also find them at the food area at Central Market, which has grown-up-sized seats and perhaps slightly higher hygienic standards.

The sweetest rocket fuel you’ll ever drink.

Iced coffee with milk

Perhaps the easiest introduction to street food is its beverages. The thoroughfares of Phnom Penh are lined with coffee shops selling kar-fe toek doh koh toek gok, or iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk. If you’re like me, knowing that the beans are roasted in lard makes the sweet, strong coffee taste that much better. Some choose to have it without the condensed milk, but they underestimate the mental clarity aroused by the tingling of dental cavities caused by the drink’s unabashed treacliness.

Chive cakes

Fried in shallow pans by mobile street vendors, num kachay are small chive cakes, made with glutinous rice flour and served with a sweet, spicy fish sauce. You’ll find similar versions of this dish in Thailand, but the recipe is believed to have originated in China.

Beef skewers

A common afternoon or evening snack in Cambodia, sach ko chomkak are skewers of beef cooked over hot coals. They’re best enjoyed tucked into a crunchy baguette and accompanied by tart green papaya slaw and spicy red chili sauce.

Not the most visually appealing, but fried noodles are some of the cheapest, most filling street food in Cambodia.

Fried noodles

Variations of fried noodles abound in Cambodia, but whether they’re made with short, thick rice noodles that resemble worms, soft yellow egg noodles or packaged deep-fried instant ramen noodles, mi char is one of the simplest and most satisfying afternoon snacks. While sellers have many different variations, beef and pork stir-fried with tender greens are the most common. For an added treat, ask for a fried egg on top.

Noodle soup

One of the most popular breakfasts in town, kuy teav is a noodle soup made from pork or beef bones and rice vermicelli and topped with fried shallots, green onions and bean sprouts. Fish balls and pork are usually added, although you’ll sometimes find rare-beef kuy teav as well. But don’t dare call it pho! Many Cambodians believe that the dish originated in Kampuchea Krom–the area of Southern Vietnam that was once part of the Khmer Empire–and that the famous Vietnamese soup came second. A delicious Phnom Penh speciality version of the soup, kuy teav Phnom Penh, featuring blood, liver, intestines and tongue, is not for the faint of heart (or squeamish expats).

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