Shopping malls, Phnom Penh-style

When I first came to Phnom Penh in 2012 the nearest equivalent to a shopping mall was the Sorya Shopping Center (not to be confused with Golden Sorya Mall, which wasn’t a shopping mall either but a now-defunct, distinctly sleazy ‘pub street’). Sorya was more like an indoor market hall but it had Cambodia’s first escalator and that alone qualified it as a futuristic shopping experience by the capital’s standards of the time. Twelve years on and the retail landscape has been transformed as Phnom Penh embraces mall culture with zeal.

Aeon shopping mall Phnom Penh

The original Aeon Mall in 2014 was Cambodia’s first “real” mall.

Japanese retail giant Aeon led the way in 2014 with the opening of its first Aeon Mall on Sothearos Boulevard. Locals approached it with eager curiosity while expats cheered the arrival of brands like Mango, Daiso, and Lock ‘n’ Lock and the chance to shop in air-conditioned comfort. This medium-sized mall has since been expanded and revamped and remains the most convenient location in central Phnom Penh to meet your shopping needs. Customers can shop international names like H & M, Nine West, Ecco, Superdry, and Decathlon; an increasing number of upmarket brands like Coach, Michael Kors, and Tommy Hilfiger; and a wealth of sports retailers including Adidas, ASICS, Puma, and New Balance. Nojima has an excellent range of phones and home electrical appliances large and small; there are optical services; pharmacies, and beauty stores; and a very popular World Dining food court on the ground floor. Lively Plaza lives up to its name with regular promotions and activities and of course there’s loads of parking for those ginormous SUVs.

Aeon 2 opened its doors four years later in the fast-developing Sen Sok area of the city with more of the same brands but on a significantly larger scale. Its huge Decathlon store alone was worth the thirty minutes or so ride out of the city center. Of course modern mall culture is about more than just shopping and each Aeon Mall boasts its share of Asian and Western food and drink outlets, mainly of the fast food variety including Pizza Company, Burger King, and Starbucks, along with a Major Cineplex and a bowling alley.

For its hat trick in 2023, Aeon invested $390,000 million in a third mall, its largest and most spectacular to date, commanding 174,000 square metres of prime development land in the Mean Chey district of Phnom Penh en route to where the new airport is nearing completion. Its stunning design over four floors incorporates huge LCD screens and there’s a spacious outdoor park and playground.

Chip Mong Mega Mall, home of Cambodia’s first Zara outlet.

Naturally local developers have been keen to get in on the act, most notably the Chip Mong Group that operates a number of supermarkets around the city along with the Chip Mong Noromall on Norodom Boulevard, a toe in the water that has yet to really take off. In 2023 Chip Mong launched its showpiece retail and leisure development, Chip Mong 271 Mega Mall, on the edge of the city center. That this visually impressive mall boasts Cambodia’s first branch of Zara — and a stylish, spacious one at that — is enough of a draw for me, but it’s also home to the upscale likes of Paul Smith, Karl Lagerfield, Smeg, and Lacoste; the fun (and cheap!) Kohnan Japan Home Center, plus branches of H & M, Vietnamese fashion store Routine, Charles & Keith, Crocs, and other brands familiar from Aeon and elsewhere. According to Chip Mong, more malls are in the pipeline.

Upscale Megamall shopping at Chip Mong Mega Mall

There are smaller malls too: Olympia Mall in the Olympia City development; Exchange Square Shopping Mall; and the Lucky Pavilion Mall currently growing around Lucky Supermarket on Sihanouk Boulevard. Toul Kork has the long-standing TK Avenue Mall, which is really more of an outdoor shopping center. Sorya Shopping Center, meanwhile, has been reborn as Sorya Center Point following a $5 million investment. Increasingly, residential and commercial developments like The Bridge, The Point, Raintree, and Eden Garden are incorporating mall-style shopping and leisure facilities, some more successful than others.

It’s unlikely the escalation of malls will stop here. Cambodia has a growing middle class and malls are becoming part of the leisure experience. Indeed, the massive numbers of new jobs these malls create is putting spending money into the pockets of young people in particular.  As yet the country doesn’t have quite the distribution network needed to support the move of many more international brands into the country but the increasing demand that comes with a growing economy may well change that. (If anyone from Uniqlo is reading this, we need you here!)

Six of the best places to satisfy your sweet tooth in Phnom Penh

There’s no shortage of treats in Phnom Penh for those who want to have their cake (and eat it). From street food to fancy French patisseries, there’s a sugar rush waiting to happen in just about every corner of the capital.  If cakes are your thing as they are mine, these are some of the places you need to know about.

The showstoppers from Love & Cakes just might be too beautiful to eat.

 Love & Cakes

Elena Tumanova is the confectioner par excellence behind this exceptional home bakery where each cake and cookie is a work of art. You name it, Elena and her team will bake it — and present it so beautifully you hardly dare eat it. From madeleines and marshmallows to bento cake boxes and beautiful occasion cakes. Hand-rolled mochi is a melt-in the-mouth speciality. Contact them via facebook or WhatsApp (+855 96 978 8955) to make your order. Continue reading

Ebinosekai: omakase sushi in Phnom Penh

When it comes to getting great sushi, Phnom Penh has its ebbs and flows. I’m happy to report that these days in Phnom Penh the sushi is flowing, and it’s better than ever. Ebinosekai on Street 63 offers an experience that’s as close to eating in Japan as you’re likely to get in Cambodia, and offers great value for money for the quality they’re serving.

A Cambodian sushi chef putting a single piece of nigiri sushi onto a plate.

A piece of chutoro nigiri as part of Ebinosekai’s omakase menu.

The highlight of the menu are the various omakase selections. The term omakase loosely means “I’ll leave it up to you,” and is an invitation to trust the chef to serve whatever is best that day. It’s served at the sushi bar, and the chef presents each piece, one by one, which feels more like an experience than a meal. Continue reading

Pomelo Bar: a stylish Phnom Penh garden oasis

Pomelo Bar, a design-lover’s dream, opened just a few weeks ago in Phnom Penh and is already garnering rave reviews. Tucked away on a laneway off of Street 184 across from Plantation, Pomelo is housed in a 1990s villa clearly inspired by Van Molyvann and the New Khmer Architecture movement, with its characteristic VVV-style roof and accents. The laneway location gives the place a secluded feel; it’s like a secret garden oasis in the middle of the city.

Inside, Pomelo bar is stylish and inviting, and it’s clear that someone put a lot of thought, and love, into the design. The bar’s aesthetic blends mid-century modern and Scandinavian design, and could just as easily be in Stockholm as Phnom Penh. One of the owners, Drew, formerly of popular Siem Reap wine bar Balthazar, is passionate about architecture and interiors, and it shows. Continue reading

Tuk tuk, bong? Navigating Phnom Penh transportation

The traditional Khmer tuk tuk in all its quirky glory is one of the iconic images of Cambodia. Despite an influx of alternatives, these two-wheeled carriages, known as remorques from the French term for trailer, and usually drawn by the ubiquitous Honda dream, are still an appealing way to get around the city. Time was, remorques were the standard means of transport in Phnom Penh alongside the moto, or motorcycle taxi, and cyclo, the equally iconic Cambodian rickshaw. They first appeared in Cambodia in the 1990s as motorbike ownership grew and by the turn of the millennium were overtaking the cyclo as the staple way to travel.

Phnom Penh is teeming with tuk tuks.

The growing popularity of Indian Bajaj tuk tuks, also called autorickshaws, since the first fleet was launched in Cambodia in 2016 posed a threat to the future of the traditional remorque and has shaken up the capital’s public transport framework significantly. These dinky, agile LPG vehicles, greener, cheaper to use — and to buy and operate — truly came into their own when the first ride hailing apps were introduced the following year. It wasn’t just the remorques and their drivers who suffered the fall out, but the city’s motodops were pretty much put out of business, too. Continue reading

How to get from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap (and vice versa) in 2025

If you’re heading to Cambodia in 2025, you may be wondering how to to get from Phnom Penh and Siem Reap (and Siem Reap to Phnom Penh).

Giant Ibis bus Phnom Penh to Siem Reap

Check out the view on a Giant Ibis bus between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

There are options to fit every budget, but some are nicer and more comfortable than others. I’ve tried all of these ways to travel between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, some of them many times (unlike most of the other sites who just copy my content, yawn). The journey by road usually takes between 5 and 7 hours, depending on your mode of transport, traffic, and the ever-changing condition of the road.

Table of contents

Summary

  • Taxi: Costs $80-100. Most comfortable option. Best balance of price and convenience. About 5 hours. Book now.
  • Bus: Costs $10-18. Smoothest ride and best views. About 6 hours.
  • Mini-bus/van: Costs $10-13. Faster than the bus, but more cramped. About 5.5 hours. Book now.
  • Plane: Costs $100-200. Fastest method, but domestic flights are unreliable. About 1 hour. Book now.
  • Ferry: Costs $35. Best scenery, if you sit outside. About 8 hours, sometimes more. Not currently running.

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How to get from the new airport into Siem Reap

Gone are the days of quick Siem Reap airport transfers. The new Siem Reap–Angkor International Airport (SAI), opened last year to much grumbling and is 50 kilometers out of Siem Reap proper. With the new location it now takes between 50 and 90 minutes to get to and from the Siem Reap airport, not to mention it’s more expensive, so it’s worth doing a little research before your flight.

Everything you need to know about how to get to the new Siem Reap Airport.

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Top notch birdwatching: A world of beautiful birds on Phnom Penh’s doorstep

One of the perhaps lesser-known wonders of Cambodia is the Kingdom’s abundance of exotic birdlife. The country is home — or host, in the case of migratory visitors — to over 670 different bird species, many of which are rare, and you don’t need to be a dedicated twitcher to see them in the wild. Nor do you have to travel far out of Phnom Penh for a fascinating birding experience as we — two enthusiastic but inexperienced birdwatchers — discovered when we took a half day birding tour with Vana Adventure Travel.

On the look out at Wat Pich Makot.

Thong was our friendly, knowledgeable guide; a bird-lover, keen conservationist and founder of the family-owned tour company. He and driver Narith picked us up from home at 5:30 a.m. (there’s a 2:30 p.m. alternative but we preferred to avoid the afternoon heat) and whisked us away to the wetlands of Kandal province, a short hop from Phnom Penh by ferry across the Mekong at its junction with the Tonle Sap and Bassac rivers, and a haven for winged wildlife. Continue reading